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^popular Resorts. 



AN^D HOW TO REACH THEM. 



'>^r>'", 




POPULAR RESORTS, 



AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



COMBINING A BRIEF DESCKIPTION OF 



THE PEINCIPAL SUMMER EETREATS IN THE UNITED STATES, 



ROUTES OF TRAVEL LEADING TO THEM. 



JOHN b: bachelder, 

Author of "The Illustrated Tourixtt:' Giiirle," " Getttisihurii, What to see, and How to see it,' 

"The Isometrical Draioing of the Getti/sbwrj Battlefield," "Descriptive Key to the 

I'aintiiiii of Longstreet's Assault at Gcttysburn," Designer of the 

Jitstorical Paintings of the Battle of Gettysburg, 

Last Hours of Lincoln, &c. 



'1^1 



HOJ' 



Illustrated bg ®ne f^unUrcK antr SfiUvMba fflJIoott^Citts 

BY THE UKST ENGEAVEKS, 

MANY OF THEM FROM ORIGINAL SKETCHES 
BY THE AUTUOB. 



^^''■ 



BOSTON: \^^/^/NG'^SX 

JOHN B. BACHELDER, PUBLISHER. 
41-45 Franklin Street. 
(At liCe & Shepard's.) 

1875. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the yeai' 1875, by 

JOHN B. BACHELDER, 
In tlie Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 



Boston : 

Electrotyped and Printed sr 

Rand, Avery, & Co. 



PREFACE TO THIRD EDITION 



P^ACH 3-ear adds to the popularity of summer travel. The vaca- 
tion fever returns annually with " the season," and custom de- 
mands that ever}' well-to-do family prepare for it. No class of 
society is exempt. The mechanic and merchant, the banker and 
clerk, the student and professional man, are alike affected by its 
seductive influences, and, in the pleasure it brings, seek that 
respite from the cares of life which exhausted nature requires. 

To know how to travel is a matter of great importance to the 
tourist. Many persons pass unheeding by the pictui-esque beauties 
of a pleasant route, expecting to find awaiting them at the end of 
their journey, the combined pleasures which others have described. 
In some instances the points to be visited are places of celebrity, 
but the route of approach lies through an uninteresting region. 
This is the case with many of our ocean watering-places. In 
others, as much pleasure may be derived en route as from the 
resort itself. This is particularly' true of mountain travel, Avliere 
every turn opens up new and interesting scenes. 

AVliere a single excursion is to be made for the season, it is a 
matter of imi)ortance for the tourist to select an objective }joint 
and a route of travel, the peculiarities of which are congenial to his 
tastes. Public resorts which may furnish abundant sources of 
pleasure to one person frequently present little of interest to an- 
other. While one would be satisfied with a single day at the sea- 
shore, another would never tire of watching the waves break upon 
a rock-bound coast. The waving forests, the rugged grandeur of 
the mountains, and the deepening mystery of the glens, which to 
many prove sources of great delight, for others have no attractions. 
Hence the importance of carefully choosing desirable "Popular 
Resorts, and Routes to Reach Them." 

3 



PKEFACE TO THIKD EDITION. 



Of all the celebrated watering-places on the coast, the famous 
springs, or the frequented mountain-houses, no two are alike, yet 
each localit}' possesses an individual interest, and finds its pa- 
trons ; and the routes which lead to them have their attractions, 
either in the safety* and comforts afforded the traveller, or in the 
I)icturesque beauty of the region through which the^- pass. It is 
to la}' this subject clearl}- before the public that tliose pages with 
their illustrations are presented ; thus enabling tlie tourist to 
choose in advance the character of scene he would visit. 

The favorable reception of the two former editions of this work, 
and the universal request of patrons for its continuance, have 
determined the author to publish annnaUi/ a volume devoted ex- 
clusively to the interests of travel, which shall give not only gen- 
eral information regarding the "Popular Resorts, and How to Reach 
Them," but furnish a standard medium through which proprietors 
or agents, who represent houses or loutes, may describe or illus- 
trate the merits of their respective interests. Tlie illustrated 
routes have been generally pre[)ared from sketches and notes taken 
on the spot by the compiler of this volume ; while tlie " item " 
notices have either been written expressly for it, or compiled from 
the best published accounts. 

It should be distinctly understood tliat this volume is not, and 
does not claim to be, a Guide-Boole. It is rather a Gazetteku oij" 
Pleasure Travel ; and, although it ma^- give much useful infor- 
mation, it is not intended to take the [ilace of a guide. For the 
details of travel, the tourist is advised to secure a current number 
of the Traveller's Official Guide, — or " Oflicial Time Tables," 
an abbreviation of it, if a more compact book is desired. 

The author here takes occasion to thank those wlio responded to 
his circular invitation for data. Brief descriptions of oilier re- 
sorts are requested for the next edition, the compilation of which 
has already been commenced. 

In view' of the Centenniid Anniversary at Philadelphia in 187G, 
special attention will be given to illustrated pleasure routes lead- 
ing from eveiy section of the country to that city, and the imme- 
diate attention of persons interested in such routes is invited. 

The Autiiou. 



COI^TE]:^TS. 



Summer Recreation . 

Pedestrianisin 

Equestrianism 

Wagon Ridiiij 

Camping out. 
Harbor and Coastwise Excursions 
Hints to Tourists 

Boston 

Mountains 

N(!\v' llampsliire Mountains . 

White Mountains , 

lloutes of Approach 

Francouia Mountains . 



Pleasure Route No. 1. 

Bostoii, Concord, and Montreal Railroad .... 

Stage Route from Plymouth to tlie Francouia Moiuilaius. 



PAGE. 

. 13 

. 13 

. 15 

. 17 

. 18 

. 21 

. 23 

. 25 

. 26 

. 27 

. 28 

. 31 

. 32 

33 

. 33 

. 49 



Pleasure Route Xo. 2. 63 

Passumpsic and .South-Eastern Railroad 63 



Pleasure Route No. 3. 



E.QStern Railroad 

To tlie Interior 



PivEASURE Route No. 4. 

Boston and Maine Railroad 

Portland and Vicinity 

Portland, Bangor, and Machias Steamboat Company 

Mount Desert 

Up the Penobscot ...» 

Pleasure Route No. 5. 
Portland and O^densburg Railway .... 



66 
66 

70 

73 
73 
75 

78 
78 
79 

80 
80 



North Conway 85 

5 



O CONTENTS. 

PAGE. 

Pleasure Eoute No. 6. 92 

Grand Trunk Railway 92 

Pleasure Route No. 7. 94 

Maine Central Railway 94 

Eastern Provinces 96 

Pleasure Route No. 8. 97 

Old Colony Railroad 97 

Old Colony Steamboat Company 105 

Pleasure Route No. 9. 108 

Excursion to Oak BlufTs and Katama 108 

Pleasure Route No. 10. 119 

Central Termont Railroad 119 

Pleasure Route No. 11. 126 

Shore Line . 126 

Pleasui{e Route No. 12. 131 

Stonington Line 131 

Middle States 133 

New York City 133 

Pleasure Route No. 13. 134 

Up the Hudson 134 

Catskills. — ApiH-oacIi from Kingston Station 137 

" " " Catskill " 139 

Pleasure Route No. 14. 142 

Central Railroad of New Jersey, North Pennsylvania, Albany and Sus- 
quehanna, Rensselaer and Saratoga, and New York and Canada 2 
Railroads 14 

North Pennsylvania Railroad 142 

Pennsylvania Scenery 144 

Central Railroad of New Jersey 145 

Delaware and Hudson Canal Company's Railroads .... 169 

Saratoga Springs 175 

Lake George 177 

" Cliamplain 178 

New York to Long Branch . . 182 



CONTEJVTS. 7 

PAGE. 

Pleasure Route No. 15. 193 

New York Central and Hudson River Railroad 115 

Black River Railroad I95 

Rome, Watertowii, and Ogdeushurg Railroad 19G 

Pleasukk Route No. 16. 204 

Erie Railway 204 

Atlantic and Great Western Railway 210 

Philadelphia 211 

Pleasure Route No. 17. 214 

Philadelphia and Reading Railroad 214 

Long Branch . 231 

Pleasure Route No. 18. 232 

Cape May 232 

Pleasure Route No. 19. 233 

Philadelphia, Wilmington, and Baltimore Railroad .... 233 

Pleasure Route No. 20. 239 

Fortress Monroe 239 

' Pleasure Route No. 21. 242 

Pennsylvania Railway 242 

Branch Roads 254 

Pleasure Route No. 22. 255 

Baltimore and Potomac and Northern Central Railways . . . 256 

Southern States 268 

Virginia 268 

Richmond 270 

Pleasure Route No. 23. 272 

Chesapeake and Ohio Railroad 272 

Passage of the Alleghany 279 

Pleasure Route No. 24, 289 

Atlantic Coast Line . . 289 

Pleasure Route No. 25. 294 

Piedmont Air Line 294 



8 CONTENTS. 

PAGE. 

Pleasure Route No. 26. 391 

dreat Southern Mail Route 301 

Pleasuke Route No. 27. 808 

Louisville and Great Southern Route 308 

Mammoth Cave 309 

Western States . 314 

Pleasure Route No. 28. 315 

drand Rapids and Indiana Railroad 315 

Beyond Chicago 318 

Pleasure Route No. 29. 320 

Chicajro and North-Western Railroad 320 

Wisconsin 329 

Chicago and St. Paul Line 332 

Minnesota 334 

Pleasure Route No. 30. 337 

Chicago, Burlington, and Quincy Railroad 337 

Pleasuiie Route No. 31. 340 

Union and Central Pacific Railroads ■ . . 340 

Dakota 340 

Colorado 349 

Montana 341 

Utah 344 

Idaho 344 

California ■ 345 



h 



1ST OF IlLUSTP^^TIONS. 



Froxtispiece, Popular Resorts 2 

Trout. Fi^hin;^ 14 

Out-of-Door Life 1(5 

Camp Stove 17 

Caini>in;.; Out 19 

Pleasure(V) Ti-avol in the Olden Time 22 

Lake ami iMonntain Srenery 2G 

AVliire Mouulaiui 29 

Lowell anil Na-;liua Depot, Boston 34 

Hooksett FallA, N.H » 36 

Tilton, N.H 38 

Laconia, N.H 40 

View near Lake Village, N.H 41 

Weir's Laiiiliiii?, Lake Wiiinepesaukee, N.H 42 

Steamer " Lady of tlieLuke" 44 

lva,i^;;(!d Mountain, and Lon<; Poml 45 

Plymouth, N.H. . 4(i 

3'emi;;ewaiset House 47 

Livennore Falls N.H 48 

Owl's Head and JMoojilauke Mount, N.H 50 

Littleton, N.H 52 

Lar.castei', N.H 54 

Bethlehem Station, N.H 50 

Maplewood Hotel, N.H 57 

Twin IMonntain House, N.H 58 

Fa'i)yan House, NH 60 

Ammonoo-mc Falls, N.H 61 

Mount Wadiin.Ljton Railway, N.H 62 

Boar's Heail, N.H. . . ' 68 

Portland, INIe 74 

Fahnouth Hou'^e, Me 75 

Unirel States Hotel, Me 76 

AVhite Head Cliff, Portland Harbor 77 

Portland Li.u;ht 79 

Seba^o Lake ^^ 



10 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Conway Elms . 85 

Mt. Kiarsarge, N.H. . 86 

Diana's Baths, N.H. 87 

Silver Cascade, N.H. 89 

AVliite Mountain Notch <J0 

Old Colony liailroad 97 

Boat-House Landing, Newport, K.I 98 

Coast Scene 100 

Trout Pond 101 

Nantucket Wharf . i02 

Newport, B.1 104 

Saloon, Old Colony Steamer 106 

Steamer "Bristol," passing East-IMver Bridge, N.Y. .... 107 

Steamboat " Martha's Vineyard," passing Oak Bluffs .... 108 

Riding Out the Storm 110 

Sea- View House, Mass Ill 

Seaside Cottage II3 

Mattakeset Lodge, Mass. 114 

Yachting II5 

Sea- View Boulevard, Mass 117 

Providence Depot, Boston 126 

Grand Central Dejiot, New York . 129 

Harbor Scene, New York 131 

Fisherman's Cottage 141 

Lehigh Valley, Mauch Chunk, Penn 144 

C(jal Vein 14(5 

Lehigh Gap 147 

Mauch Chunk, Penn 148 

Mansion House, Mauch Chunk, Penn. , . 149 

View from the Mansion House, Mauch Chunk, Penn 150 

The Flagstaff 151 

Mount Pisgali Plane, Penn 152 

Onoko Station, Penn 153 

Coal Breaker . 15{) 

Lehigh Vallej^, Penn 157 

Prospect Rock, Penn 159 

Cloud Point, Penn KiO 

Glen Thomas, Penn. 161 

Solomon's Gap, Penn 162 

Lackawanna Valley Hotise, Penn 164 

Naj-aug Falls, Scranton Gorge, Penn Kio 

Switchback Railroad, Moosic Higlilands, Penn 16(> 

Jones Lake 167 

Wyoming House, Penn 168 

Cave House, N.Y . 172 

Summer Life at North Mountain Hotise, Penn 183 

Wild Woods 185 

Ganoga Falls, Penn. 187 

Mountain Stream 188 

North Mountain View 190 



LIST OF ILLUSTIiATIONS. 11 

Forest Life 192 

TlKJUsand Island House, N.Y 19() 

Moonlight 203 

Falls Village Bridge, Penn 212 

Columbia Bridge, Penn. . ... 214 

Sclniylkill River, Penn 215 

Valley Forge, Penn. 21(5 

Schuylkill Iliver, above Pottstown, Penn 217 

Mount Carbon, Penn 220 

Little Schuylkill Iliver, J'enn 221 

Mahanoy Plane, Penn 222 

Brookside, Penn 223 

Herndon, Susquehanna Elver, Penn 224 

^Slainville Water Gap, Penn 227 

Catawissa, Penn. ... • 228 

Marine View, — Coal Transport 230 

Strawberry Culture, Del. 233 

Peach Gathering, Del 234 

Cristiield, Md. : Oyster Shipment, Del. . . . ' . . . . 235 

llidley Station, Md 236 

Residence of F. O. C. Darley, Esq., Md 237 

Mount Ararat, ]Md 238 

Hygeia Hotel, Va . 240 

Marine View 241 

Coatesville Bridge, Penn. 242 

Connecting Itailroad Bridge, Penn 243 

Bryn Mawr, Penu 244 

International Exhibition Building, Penn 245 

Fairnujunt Park, Peun 24(> 

Hestonville, Peun 247 

Ardinore Station, Penn 249 

Juniata River, Penn 251 

Logan House, Penn. . . . ■ 252 

j\Iountaiu House, Penn 253 

Washington, D.C 255 

Baltimore Tunnel, Md 256 

Night Train 257 

Susquehanna River 258 

Harrisburg, Penn 259 

Renova House, Penn 2fi0 

Dutchman's Run, Penn 261 

Empire Fall, N.Y 263 

Rainbow Falls, N.Y 264 

Hector Falls, N.\' 265 

Watkins Glen, N.Y 266 

Seneca Lake, N.Y 267 

University of Virginia 269 

Earthworks on the Chickahouiiny, Va. 270 

Commissary Department 272 

Mountain Tunnel, Va 275 



12 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Kockbridge Ahnn Springs, Va. 
Griffith's Knob, Cowpasture River, Va 
Falling Spring Falls, Va. 
Greenbrier White Snlphnr Springs, W. 
Start down the Greenbrier, W. Va. 
rdclanond Falls, New River, W. Va. 
■Whiteonib's Bowlder, Va. 
Knnning New Pdver Kapids, W. Va. 

Miller's Ferry, Va 

Charleston, "W. Va 

Huntington, Ohio .... 

Storm at Sea 

Green Lake, "Wis 

Pleasant Valley .... 

Night Express 

Giant Geyser, Mon 

Crystal Cascade, Mon. . 



Va. 



270 
277 
278 
280 
282 
283 
284 
285 
280 
287 
288 
300 
327 
339 
338 
342 
'343 



SUMMER RECREATION, 



The custom of setting apart a few weeks or months of the year as a 
respite from labor is fast i^aining popularity; and each season adds to the 
number of those who leave tlieir daily cares behind, and seek rest and 
recuperation for mind and body among the hills and deep green woods 
of the country, or at the sea-shore, bathing in surf or sunlight, and 
cooled by the invigorating breezes of the sea. 

Thosa whom fortune has favored can devote the season to travel, visit- 
ing in succession the rare natural wonders with which the countiy is 
stored. Such have only to select the points of interest, and the most 
pleasing routes by which they may be visited. A far larger number, 
however, choose some desirable and healthful locality where they may 
secure the desired change and rest, at cheaper rates even than they 
could remain at home. Both classes will find in this book abundant 
directions for their guidance. But the following chapter is devoted to 
another class, who, from economy or adventure, choose more freedom in 
their movements. I refer to the pedestrian, equestrian, and camping-out 
party. 

There is ?. certain age when young men glory in pedestrianism, and 
st>e in it a source of great pleasure. A few years later the same parties 
will prefer a horse to facilitate their movements; and, later yet, a carriage 
will be required to complete their happiness. As our army of young men 
is constantly recruited from the ranks of the home- guard of boys, and as 
the " wheels of time " as surely graduate these youth into manhood, it is 
proposed to treat briefly each of these som-ces of recreation. 

PEDESTRIANISM. 

"When the place for " camping-out " has been determined on, the mode 
of travel will come up for discussion : this, of course, will be largely 
determined by the place chosen for camp, and the length of time it is to 
be occupied. If it is to be permanent, it matters little how the place is 
reached. But there is another manner of camping-out, combining with 
it pedestrianism or equestrianism, by which the advantages of tour and 
camp are combined; and this, when the party are physically able to 

13 



14 



POPULAB KESOBTS, AND HOW TO BEACH THEM. 



endure it, will be found a source of great enjoyment, particularly if an 
interesting country be selected. Eight or ten miles per day, at early 
morning and late evening, can easily be made, which will sum up quite a 
trip during the season. There is a romantic novelty connected with an 
excursion of this kind, which commends it to the adventurous. Much of 
the enjoyment, however, will depend upon the similarity of tastes, and 
physical endurance of the party. The " best fellow in the v/orld," 
socially, would soon become unendurable if he "broke down" every 
day on the march. 




'^'^'^u.u.V 



"iM^P 



,^ — ;» ^ 



TROUT FISHING. 



How delightful the sport in early morn, when the clear air resounds 
with the songster's happy note, and a roseate hue tips the mountain top ; 
or at quiet eve, when the last rich golden rays of the sun struggle to 
pierce the overhanging boughs, — to cast the alluring fly, and land the 
gamey trout! And what a tempting dish it forms, caught and cooked 
by your own hands, seasoned by a good appetite and the excitement of 
adventure ! 



POPULAIi UKSOJtTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM. 15 

Pedestrianism determined on, it is of the gi-eatest importance to reduce 
the stock of clothing and equipment to actual necessities, for "every 
ounce becomes a pound" at the end of a long jaunt. A frequent 
error of the novice in tramping tours, is to choose new and elaborately 
equipped knapsacks, heavy rifles or fowling-pieces, with patent am- 
munition and fishing-tackle, the accumulation of which soon becomes 
burdensome, and the pleasure of the excursion is spoiled. Fortunately 
nearly every one can get valuable hints on the subject of out-of-door 
life from men of army experience. Strong shoes and clothing are im- 
l)ortant. A change of socks and underclothes, and a rubber and woollen 
blanket, will be required. The three sides of a shelter tent, divided 
among a party of three, can be taken. A wire bread-toaster for broiling 
game or meat, a coffee-pot, with tin plates and drinking-cups, knives 
and forks, a hatchet, and pocket-compass, complete the outfit; and all 
weigh but a few pounds. Select a liglit game-bag or haversack, in jilace 
of the heavier knapsack. It is not only lighter, but can be carried with 
more freedom. A cape made of oiled silk, or glazed muslin, reaching 
to the hands, will be found very serviceable. It is light, and, when not 
in use, takes but little more space than a handkerchief, and is a complete 
protection against showers by day, or dampness at night. Milk, bread, 
&c., can always be purchased from the farmers; coffee and crackers at 
the stores. Unless hunting be intended as a specialty, rifles or fowling- 
pieces should be left at home. A Smith and Wesson sixteen -inch pistol 
with a detaclied stock weighs but a few ounces, and for ordinary tours 
will answer all requirements. Fish hooks and lines should be taken, but 
a rod can be improvised for the occasion. A valise containing additional 
changes of clothing can be forwarded from point to point. The expense 
of an excursion of this kind will be found to be surprisingly small. 



EQUESTUIAXISM. 

In many respects the comforts and pleasures of an excursion will be 
increased if the party are mounted. Uninteresting sections can be 
(juickly passed, and additional clothing and equipments can be taken. 
With a coil of rope to picket the horse, he will secure his own living, 
with the addition of oats purchased by the way. The camp should be 
pitched where cedar or hemlock boughs for beds can be had. Another 
very popular plan with pedestrians is to hire a horse and wagon to draw 
the baggage, cooking utensils, tent, blankets, clothing, &c. ; and a larger 
supply can then be taken. Each of the party may become driver in tui'n. 
It also saves delay in case of the illness of one of their number, who 
may still be able to play the part of driver. This plan possesses many 
advantages, and is worthy of consideration. 




OUT-OF-DOOR LIFE. 
On Ihe line of the Erie Railway, near Rock City, N.Y. 



POPULAK KESdltTS, AND HOW TO HKACII TUKM. 



17 



WAGON HIDING. 

There is still another mode of travel for summer tourists which com- 
bines the 2>leasures of those already described, and possesses many 
additional advantages; namely, a good roomy covered wagon with curtains 
to l)e rolled up at the sides, in which all can ride, take their cooking 
utensils, tent, valises, guns, fishing-tackle, sketching-nuitei-ials, ike. A 
good pair of horses, and an experienced cook for driver and •• man of all 
work," will complete the outfit. Such a party can be always at home, 
can camp for a few days on the banks of some beautiful stream or lake, 
or where the scenery, fishing, hunting, or berries invite tiiem to tarry. 
Last summer the wiiter met such a party from Wilkes Harre, encamped 
on the shores of Highland Lake, on the summit of North Mountain, 
Pennsylvania (see illustrated <lescription of North Mountain), which had 
improved even upon this phm. In addition to tent and eciuipments, 
they had a light boat in tlieir wagon, which could be readily launched. 
It might be slung beneath, and become tlie recei)tacle of small packages. 
Tills party were dressed in a unique uniform of blue flannel. They re- 
mained encamped several days at North Mountain, wliei-e the fishing 
is good, with fine shooting in the neighborhood; the ladies, meanwhile, 
dividing their time Itetween their tent and the North-Mountain House. 
Tlie most convenient and ornamental tent which we have seen for camp- 
ing-out parties, or for the lawn, is manufactured by Gale & Co., lo and 16 
Fanueil Hall Square, Boston. It is i>entagonal, and opens like an um- 
lirella; is covered wit) i striped canvas; the walls can be wholly or par- 
tially removed at pleasure. It lias a folding centre-table, if desired, and 
is made of three sizes, accommodating from six to a dozen persons; yet 
it can be pitched or struck in ten minutes, and weighs but fifty pounds. 
A valuable adjunct to tliis tent is the lately invented camp-stove, sold by 

H. L. Duncklee, 87 Blackstone 

■j^^^ ».10P55"JBB"^ Street, Boston, which for its com- 

,^ ^f ^j" 'I'B^-IE-^/ pactness, and the many coiiven- 

^1". i II ItilA iences it combines, should have 

been named mullum in firirm. 





CAMP-STOVE (OPEN). OAMP-STUVE {lI.dSED). 

The accomi)anying illustrations re])resent the stove and furniture, both 
open, and packed ready for transportation. 



18 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

In addition to the stove and detached oven, with a capacity for baking 
a turkey or fifteen pounds of beef, is an eight-quart kettle, six-quart tea- 
kettle, two-quart coffee-pot, fry-pan, two square and one round pans, a 
dipper, gridiron, tent-collar, and eight feet of telescope funnel. The 
ware is so constructed that it nests, and packs in the oven. The oven 
and funnel pack inside the stove, still leaving room for a half-dozen 
plates, cups, knives, and forks, &c. The stove and furniture complete 
weighs but twenty-seven pounds, and may be purchased for fifteen dollars. 
With such a tent and cooking apparatus how cosily a camping-out party 
may live, either at the mountains or sea-shore ! Such a scene is repre- 
sented on the shores of "Jones Lake." (See Index.) 

There is still another species of camping-out which should be 
mentioned. I refer to the real camp of the explorer, the hunter, or 
adventurer. There is, extending from. Canada to Mexico, a border of 
wild partially explored country, which affords a field rich in adventure 
for all who choose to visit it. There the camp is a real necessity, the 
requirements of which it behooves all who propose such an excursion, to 
study thoroughly before embarking. There are so many interesting 
localities on our frontier to visit that one can hardly go amiss; perhaps, 
however, there are none more attractive than the Yellowstone region of 
the North-west, the great " National Park," as it has been aptly termed ; 
or the new State of Colorado with its " Garden of the Gods," its mighty 
cafions, &c. Here will be found in perfection those elements of grandem* 
in outline, and sublimity in effect, which please the eye, and gratify the 
senses. 

The comparatively small number that choose these distant fields of 
adventure will usually select their grounds from information outside this 
volume, while the thousands who go into camp nearer home may consult 
its pages. To such, a few additional suggestions may be in place. 

The seacoast and lake shores present unusual facilities for this mode 
of summer recreation, inasmuch as the lines of railway which usually 
skirt the water's edge afford convenient and cheap transportation and 
means of access. It is no new feature that the writer seeks to introduce 
into summer amusements, for thousands practise it every season ; but it 
is the desire to show those who have never tried it how simple and 
enjoyable this recreation is. 

During the " season " of 1874, while visiting summer resorts in differ- 
ent sections of the country, we saw camping-out parties at and in the 
vicinity of a large number of them. On the shores and islands of Lake 
Winnepesaukee several parties encamped for the season ; and both there 
and at Lake George they remained until the autumn frost had tinged 
the foliage. 



POPULAK KESOBTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



1<) 



And so at numerous other pleasant localities, and along the routes lead- 
ing to them, parties were seen who had chosen this mode of recreation. 

Beyond all question, the most delightful and healthful way to spend 
one's summer vacation is in "camping out," provided the weather is 
reasonably pleasant. A time of storm is gloomy enough, whatever the 
mode chosen for enjovment. 




CAMPING OUT. 

In "camping out," all the stiff formalities of conventional life are 
put aside. The body is left free for any sort of dress except fashiona- 
ble styles; and the mind is in constant and cheery repose, and there- 
fore able to enjoy life with the keenest zest. Health comes to the inva- 
lid, with its building-up force of a sharp and eager appetite ; and the 
strong feel an electric energy, daily renewed, unknown in great cities 
and marts of trade. In fact, while the visitor to thronged summer-re- 
sorts often returns home worn and wearied, the sojourner of the camp 
comes back increased in his avoirdupois, his strength, and his sense o£ 
having had a " glorious " vacation. 



20 I'OPULAB KESOKTS, ANO HOW TO KEACH THEM. 

"Camping out" means a sort of woodman's or frontier life. It means 
Ii\^ing in a tent; sleeping on boughs or leaves; cooking yotir own meals; 
washing your own dishes, and clothes perhaps ; getting up your own 
fuel; making your own fire; and foraging for your own provender. It 
means activity, variety, novelty, and fun alive ; and the more you have ' 
of it, the more you like it ; and the longer you stay, the less willing you 
are to give it up. In fact, there is no glory for the summer tourist, to 
compare with the " camping-out " glory. 

For preparation, you will first know where your camp is to be, and 
what it affords for your pleasure. And you will scarcely make your 
party less than thi'ee, nor more than five. 11' the number exceeds five, 
it will be better to pitch two distinct camps at some distance apait, and 
thus have pleasant "neighbors" to visit, and hospitable parties to give, 
each to the other. Guns and fishing tackle carefully prepared for use 
will, of course, be required for localities where game and fish abound; 
and few places would be selected Avliere one or the other, at least, would 
not be accessible. Two gi-and essentials should be thoughtfully remem- 
bered, — plenty of dish-cloths, and a good hatchet. A good blanket, 
rough clothes, strong shoes, and a convenient knapsack, are absolute es- 
entials ; but don't burden yourself with needless things. In fact, while 
nothing is needed in the way of choice cravats and white kids, there 
should be careful regard to the little things you will need but cannot 
buy in the woods, even to a stout-bladed jack-knife. 

It is impossible, and useless to attempt, to describe particular spots, 
which would tempt a '• camping-out " party to prefer. They are num- 
bered by thousands. If you would have large game on land, and salmon 
in the waters, a location must be chosen in the more wild and rugged re- 
gions of our remote borders ; and in the right season, — say, in early 
May. Should a more quiet and subdued locality be preferred, you may 
push for the mountain sides and slopes of Pennsylvania or of Virginia. 
No more attractive beauties of nature invite the tourists of our land, 
than await those who may seek the elevated portions of " Old Vu-ginny." 

Prince Edward's Island is also unsurpassed in natural charms, in 
healthfulness, in its sources for campiug-out pleasm-es, and the broad 
hospitality of its rural population. In due time, a great summer pil- 
grimage will set towards that garden of the sea. 

Nova Scotia abounds in novelties to our own people, and in its fine 
lakes, filled with the most eager and gamey of trout. 

The solitudes of New Brunswick, so strangely overlooked by travellers 
and writers, possess some of the loveliest as well as the grandest and 
most romantic attractions to be found on any portion of our continent. 
This picturesque region also will soon, no doubt, be opened by pleasure 
hunters and the writers of many books. 



POPULAR JIESOIJTS, AXI) IIOW TO KEACII TIIKAl. 21 

Northern Maine about i\Ioosehead and tlie Rangeley Lakes, the hills 
and streams of Vermont, a great and grand region lying between the 
White Mountains and Canada, a lovely land around the head waters 
of the Connecticut River, not forgetting Mount Desert nor the Adiron- 
dacks, — these are some of the leading areas of our Northern climate, 
where camping out maybe enjoyed, in all its delicious and inspiring 
fulness. 

This is all that space will permit in this work, for remarks upon "camp- 
ing out." As yet it is only here and there that the camping-out party 
is to be found, in the warm months. The attention of vacation takers 
lias not been turned to this best of all modes of seeking one's comfort 
and ease, to the degree required to make it popular and general. But it 
cannot be commended too earnestly, nor pressed too persistently upon 
public notice. It is not absolutely required that the party camping out 
shall locate in a place remote from all civilization. On the contrary, a 
vast number of our more popular summer resorts and towns offer 
most inviting spots for a camp (see cut) to which the belles would 
delight to ramble, and where primitive hospitality can be liberally 
dispensed, even when young bucks of fashion may be compelled to 
act the parts of Bridget the cook, and Mary the maid of all work. 
It is a matter of surprise that this charming way to diversify the 
individual and family trip is not more generally remembered and prac- 
tised. Let the reader, as he decides whither his summer flight shall 
be, ponder well this idea of " Camping Out." 

Harbor and Coastwise Excursions. — One of the most delight- 
ful yet economical sources of sumnaer enjoyment is the harbor excursion. 
From each of our great maritime cities, boats conveniently arranged 
leave daily for some of the most popular resorts. From Washington 
they sail down the Potomac to jNIount Vernon ; from Baltimore to the 
beautiful water retreats in the vicinity ; from New York up the North 
and East Rivers, to Stalen Island, and Harlem ; from Boston to Nan- 
tasket Beach, Long Island, Gloucester, and Nahant. Indeed, every large 
town with a harbor front has its pleasant resorts ; and the stranger has 
only to look in the daily papers for particidars. 

Again : if the tourist would consult comfort and economy, if he would 
take sleep and rest while passing familiar or uninteresting sections of 
the country, he can frequently give diversity to his travels by an occa- 
sional trip on a coastwise steamer. In going east from Boston, the daily 
steamboat line to Portland, the " Star of the East " up the Kennebeck, 
" Sanford's Independent Line " up the Penobscot, the " Inside Line " 
from Portland to Momit Desert and Bangor, and the Halifax boats, are 
all first-class, and deserving the notice of tourists. The New York boats 
are described elsewhere. 



POFULAIi KKSOHTS, AND HOW TO KKACH THK.M. 23 

HINTS TO TOURISTS. 

It is a mattei- of no little anxiety to the devotee of summer pleasures, 
or the seeker after new wonders, tf> choose the field for his examination 
wliich shall yield the richast harvest of pleasure. In days gone by, it 
was largely the custom, as a matter of course, to visit those popular 
localities of most convenient access; and so it happened that each suc- 
ceeding year found the same familiar faces returned to the haunts of past 
enjoyments. But, with the remarkable improvement in railroad and 
steamboat travel, new resorts have been opened, and fresh wonders pre- 
sent their claims for examination. This has induced a new feature in 
summer travel. Experienced tourists no longer choose the shortest line 
to an objective point, regardless of the, scenery through which it lies; but, 
by judicious selection, with slight detour, they can embody such routes 
as lie through new or pleasant places, which can generally be done with 
ti-ifling addition to the expense. The stranger will find much assistance 
in the selection of desirable routes and localities, by an examination of 
these pages, which, in the present instance, have covered largely the 
older and better-known routes of travel; but much remains to be done. 
The task set for this w^ork is not completed by dwelling only upon the 
well-known and much-visited " re.sorts " which have secured popular 
favor, and are of ready and easy access. The perspective of other and 
less-regarded charms of Nature comes into our future picture. As popu- 
lation advances to its hundred millions, pushing the wave of frontier 
invasion on, and still on, until it shall break at last upon shores of the 
remotest sea, new objects of delight, new charms and beauties and 
wonders of creation, will be embraced in the "popular resorts" of 
this vast empire. It is not oidy the places of gayety and fashion and 
luxury, which appeal to summer migration. There are the zones of soft 
and bland climates, equable in temperature, and pure of air and water. 
There are the phannacopoeias of Nature's healing springs, foi-med from 
her own great i^ecipes. And there are other regions, on mountains or 
in valleys, to all of which the sufferers from bodily ills will finally resort 
in gi-eat multitudes in the years now coming. 

As yet, the stream of travel during the heated term may be said to 
move slowly toward the States lying upon, or contiguous to, the great 
lakes and rivers of our Nortll-'west. And yet Michigan, Wisconsin, 
IMinnesota, Indiana, Iowa, and Illinois constitute a region replete with 
every degi-ee of picturesque variety, excepting the wild grandeur of lofty 
mountain ranges. For invalids with debilitated systems and low vitahty, 
especially consumptives, ^lichigan, Wisconsin, Minnesota, and Iowa are 
now esteemed by many as decidedly preferable, and more promising of 
cure than the soft and palliating atmosphere of Florida. In Michigan, 



24 POPULAK RBSOBTS, ANB HOW TO KEACH THEM. 

the island of Mackinaw, in the straits of that name, I'ising iu a line two 
hundred feet above the water; and the wonderful "Pictured Rocks," 
extending twelve miles, and having an elevation of three hundred feet 
from the water's edge, — are famous already. Wisconsin abounds in 
remarkable evidences of having been once inhabited by a now extinct 
race. One of these is said to be in the form of a recumbent man, a 
hundred and twenty feet long, and thirty feet across the body. (?) 
Another is in the shape of a huge turtle. There are falls, gorges, and 
wildly torn rocks and hills, the rivals of the most famous in our land. 

Minnesota even surpasses some of our most favorite regions of 
charming scenery. Save great cataracts and lofty moimtains, the State 
is of rarest wealth in natural glories; and no less in stupendous and 
yet not fully explored caves. The widely famed St. Anthony's Falls 
are in Wisconsin. And what is generally said just here of these three 
States applies no less to the sister States of that region. The traveller 
who would seek some new region for recreation, adventure, or health, 
may well make his summer campaign in the pleasant lands of the 
North-west. 

Colorado is rapidly coming into popular consideration. Twenty 
years ago it was scarcely mentioned in gazetteers. Now it is a State of 
this Union. The advance of Colorado into public notice, as a place for 
emigrants to seek, had its origin in the California fever, and greed for 
gold. But the rapid and magical changes of a few years have revealed 
to our people a region of indescribable grandeur. Here every thing is 
laid out upon Nature's most gigantic scale. Rocks, piercing the clouds, 
rear their summits from canons and vast gulfs and gashes that fill the 
soul with speechless awe and delight. All that imagination could con- 
ceive, of the stupendous, awful, and sublime, can be profusely studied in 
our new sister State of Colorado. Such a glorious panorama cannot re- 
main unappreciated among such a travelling and voyaging people as ours. 
The Territoiy of Montana is another field of Nature's wonders, though 
hardly opened to the tourist. But California is a world by itself, 
ricli in every variety of scene. Here Nature displays her grandest moods. 
To speak of Florida is to re-state what is now well known among 
all classes. The remarkably equable climate, at all seasons of the year 
to be found in certain portions of Florida, so novel and delightful to 
strangers, has invited a constantly increasing tide of visitors to that 
State, especially since the war. It is pronounced the most healthful 
section of our Continent. The modes of living, the hospitality of its 
citizens, its flowers, birds, and varied fruits, — but not its alligators, 
— are sources of sweet and placid enjoyment, sui generis in Florida. 
Other wonders are constantly presenting themselves, and claim our 
attention as " Popular Resorts." We now turn to New England. 



I'OrULAU JtESOIJTS, AXO HOW TO KKACII TIIKAI. 25 

The City of Boston. — If we, depart irom the general i)lan of this 
work, to take special note of a great city, it is because lioston stands out 
in marked distinctiveness from every other city on the continent, — per- 
haps it should be said, from all others of the whole world. For a certain 
class of vacation tourists, Boston contains as much to study and enjoy 
as IS found by other classes in the peaceful woods, the mountain sub- 
limities, or the ocean's grand moods. The claim to pre-eminence among 
all our cities, for lavish profusion and unstinted generosity in all mat- 
ters pertaining to moral, intellectual, and philanthro[)ic progress, is 
conceded to Boston, without dispute. Nor are these characteristics spas- 
modic or ephemeral. From the earliest history of the Puritanical 
settlements, this distinction has marked the history of Massachusetts, 
with Boston as the chief and centre of its manifestations. Institutions 
of learning; of moral and Christian teaching; of broad and compre- 
hensive philanthropy ; of art ; of sesthetic culture ; of hygiene ; of all 
which tends to refine, purify, and elevate the race, — are not merely found 
here, but are full of progressive vigor. It is the innumerable systems 
of these classes, which induce many summer tourists to dwell for a sea- 
son in Boston. We shall not delay to particularize these ; for they would 
require a book to detail them. 

For tortuous and narrow streets, lanes, courts, and alleys, no city of 
equal size can or would compete with Boston. Its plan, if it can be 
called such, may have been oi-iginal with wandering cows and sheep; 
but no other design could ever have devised it as originally built 
since the late fire, however, many of tlie streets have been widened and 
extended, thus bringing some regularity oiit of seeming chaos ; and the 
general architecture has been greatly impi'oved, and in many cases is 
rich and elegant. The contrast of costly edifices, side by side with 
tumble-down ricketiness, is not to be found. What remain, even, 
of the older buildings are rapidly giving way to new. AVidening of 
streets is progressing at enormous cost ; and the demand for business 
facilities finds ample wealth to meet it. The city proper may be pleas- 
antly studied. 

Rare, beautiful, and refreshing to the eye as is Boston Common, the 
pride of Bostouians, the suburbs are even more attractive and grateful. 
We doubt if thei-e is a city in the world with such a clustering zone of 
half city, half-countrj^ — half nature, half art, — as adorns the environs 
of Boston. The peninsula being so much absorbed by trade, the popula- 
tion is forced to " roost " outside. Here, then, wealth and refined taste 
are free to combine and adorn. The stranger needs no special direc- 
tions. Any course will sufiice for the start; and the net-work of inter- 
laced steam, horse-car. and carriage roads will jiermit one to study the 
whole of the delicious panorama, before finishing the day. Or, taking one 



26 



POPUL,AK KESOBTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



MOUNTAINS. 

Mountains, lakes, rivers, and sea-shore form the principal resorts of 
New England. The three former are so interspersed and connected, 
that descriptions of them naturally blend one into the other. The sea- 
coast, fi-inged with some of the best beaches in the country, is thickly 
dotted with summer watering-places, High up in the unseen glens of 
the mountains the principal rivers take their rise, sometimes gliding a 
thread of silver to the valleys below; again leaping boldly from crag to 
crag, in a series of foaming cascades and waterfalls. 

The mountains of ' New England form a 
marked characteristic of the scenery of that 
picturesque region. Bold and rugged in 
outline, grand in effect, clothed in the blue 
mystery of distance, and swept by an invig- 
orating atmosphere, they embody the char- 
acteristics of popularity, and form a highly 
attractive point of interest for tourists. 




While New England is proud of the fame of her mountains, she is 
equally pleased with her hundreds of beautiful lakes, sparkling in the 



POPUI-AK RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACJI THEM. 27 

sunlight of nature; but in the boldness of her mountains, and the 
beauty of her lakes, lier waterfalls are eclipsed. In magnitude they 
would be buried in the spray of the Yellowstone, or lost in the grandeur 
of Niagara; yet they give life and interest to her scenery, and add 
variety to the pleasures of guests. They are subject to little change. 
The constant roll of waters through countless ages has, with few ex- 
ceptions, produced little effect upon the texture of the primitive rock 
u\Km which they fall. The same jagged angles which broke their waters 
centuries ago, meet them now, and dash them into fragments of spray. 
It is far better as it is. The pleasure of travel would lose half its 
interest if one locality combined the- excellencies of Nature. Florida 
without her lun-ivalled climate, Colorado shorn of her sublime canons, or 
New Jersey bereft of her magnificent sea-shores, would fail to attract 
that tide of travel which now invades their borders. 

There are really no waterfalls in New England of sufficient magnitude 
to draw visitors by their own attractions; but, as auxiliaries, they add to 
the variety of scenic characteristics otherwise interesting. 



NEW HAMPSHIRE MOUNTAINS. 

The early histories of nations show that mountains have always been 
objects of awe and veneration. Of this we have abundant proof in 
writing, both sacred and profane. Piv-emiuent among the mountains of 
New England stand the White Hills of New Hampshire. Indeed, 
save in altitude, the remark might hold good for the country. It is 
well known that the natives held tlie White Mountains in religious rev- 
erence. They called them " Agiochook " (Mountains of the Snowy 
Forehead, and House of the Great Spirit), always approaching them with 
the greatest deference; seldom venturing far up their sides. From the 
settlement of the country, they were a source of great interest. They 
were visited by Derby Field only twenty-two years after the landing of 
the Pilgrims, notwithstanding an unbroken forest intervened; and it is 
even claimed that a party of Englishmen visited them ten years previous 
to that date. The " Notch " by which travellei's can pass through to the 
country beyond, and through which the route of the Portland and Og- 
densburg Railroad lies, was discovered in 1772;* since which, improve- 
ments have been pushed to meet the wants of visitors, until now the 
hotels of this region are held among the best in the country. Unless 
mountains are of great repute, like the "White Mountains, they are sel- 
dom visited as a specialty; but their attractions more frequently form 
an auxiliary to some neighboring resort, whose enterprising proprietor 
improves the paths of approach, and furnishes conveyance. Hence it is 
safe to infer, that good hotel and transportation accommodations may 



28 POPULAR KESOKTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM. 

be had in the vicinity of most of our prominent mountains whose at- 
tractions are advertised to the public. 

Hilly and mountainous regions, like New England, New York, and 
the North-west, are generally interpersed with x^onds and lakes, which 
give a pleasing variety to the landscape. Should the mountains take 
the form of ranges, however, as in Pennsylvania, the surface is drained 
through the valleys; and lakes, which are so common in some sections of 
the country, are in such regions almost entirely unknown. New Hamp- 
shire has been aptly termed the ' ' Switzerland of America. ' ' Her gran- 
ite hills of rough primeval rock rear their bald and stately peaks high 
above the surrounding plains. 

The scanty though productive soil at their base, formed by washings 
from the disintegration of ages, supports dense forests of hardy trees, 
which, as you ascend, become dwarfed and twisted by the winds; yet, 
when mere Liliputian in size, their pi-oportions remain. When the line 
of vegetation is passed, mosses and lichens alone clothe the nakedness of 
the rocks. 

The Black Mountain of North Carolina is higher than the A^^lite 
Mountains, but it is difficult of access, and its surroundings lack the 
grand scenic effects with which the former are clothed. The Sierra 
Nevadas, though loftier in altitude and grander in effect, are as yet com- 
paratively unknown , while the ease with which the Highlands of New 
Hampshire are reached will always assure their popularity in the esti- 
mation of the travelling public. 

THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

The White Mountains, geographically known, comprise a large portion 
of that part of New Hampsliire lying north of Lake Winnepesaukee, 
embracing an area of more than five hundred square miles. Through 
this region are located many of the summer houses for which New 
Hampshire is famed. These are frequently a long distance apart: five, 
ten, fifteen, twenty, or even thirty miles may intervene, — which results 
in frequent annoyance to the stranger, who, having been preceded by 
friends, expects to meet them at their hotel as readily as he would at 
Newport, Long Branch, or Saratoga; whereas they may have ap- 
proached from an opposite direction, and then- hotel may be twenty 
miles away. At a distance, all of this section of the State is termed 
the AVhite Mountains: with the inhabitants, different localities have 
local names by which they are known. If, for instance, a citizen of 
Concord, the capital of New Hampshire, should announce his intention to 
visit ]Mount Belknap, it would be understood that he would go to Guil- 
ford. If he would visit Ked Hill, he would go to Centre Harbor; if 



30 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

Mount Kearsarge, he would stop at Potter's Station, on the Northern 
Raih'oad. If Mount Kiarsarge were to be visited, he would go to Xorth 
Conway; if Mount Chocorua, or Ossipee Moimtains, he would stop at 
West Ossipee; if Moosilauke, he would go to Warren,- if ihe Franconia 
Range, he would continue to Littleton, and thence by stage. And 
to many other mountains popular as resorts, known at a distance as a 
part of the White Mountains, his routes would be equally divergent: yet 
a visit to neither of these would take him to the White Mountains as 
understood by the citizens of the State. It is therefore advised, that 
the visitor to that region procure a good map, or, better yet, a cojiy of 
" Eastman's White-Mountain Guide," a most complete and reliable book. 
The White Mountains proper, of which Mount Washington forms the 
crowning centre, are approached by four great natural thoroughfares, or 
valleys, up which run superior carriage or rail ways, traversed by excel- 
lent coaches or elegant cars. To these valleys, from every direction 
converge the various lines of New England. By either road the tourist 
will be taken to some portion of the White jNIountain region along a 
route replete with interest. No two are alike; the scenery differs de- 
cidedly on each; and, as much of the enjoyment of a tour depends upon 
the pleasure en route, it behooves the traveller to use care in his selection. 
By going one road, and returning on another, the pleasm'e may be 
increased. If the design of the tourist were an objective point, like 
Niagara Falls, the Mammoth Cave, Watkins Glen, Cape May, or Mauch 
Chunk, he might well select the most direct route, and save himself 
for the anticipated pleasures in store; but the White Mountain trip ivill 
pay from the start. The scene changes incessantly, and the whole excur- 
sion is a panorama of interesting views. The person who has no love 
for the beautiful in nature, or who fails to appreciate its charms, and 
expects to find the great source of pleasure in store at the end of his 
journey, will be quite likely to return disappointed. 

The eleven great peaks which form the White Mountain group proper 
are, Moinit Washington, with an altitude of six thousand two hundred 
and eighty-five feet; Adams, fifty-eight hundred; Jefferson, fifty-seven 
hundred; Madison, fifty-four hundred; Clay, fifty-four hundred; Monroe, 
fifty-four hundred; Franklin, forty-nine hundred; Pleasant, forty-eight 
hundred; Clinton, forty-two hundred; Jackson, forty-one hundred, and 
Webster, four thousand. Connecting and adjoining these are many 
others of neaiiy equal altitudes. These mountains are generally accessi- 
ble. A bridle-path from the south-west extends from the Crawford 
House, near the WTiite Mountain Notch, over Mounts Clinton, Pleasant, 
Franklin, and Monroe, to the summit of Mount Washington ; and, fol- 
lowing as it does the crest of the mountain range, it unfolds a panorama 
of the grandest views east of the Rocky Mountains. A carriage-way, 



POPULAR KESOKTS, AND HOW TO KEACII THPIM. 31 

commencing at the Glen House, has been constructed up the north- 
eastern slope of Mount Washington ; and on its western face a railroad 
connecting by a short turnpike with the Boston, Concord, and Montreal 
Railroad, has been built to the top, by which the fatigues of the ascent 
have been overcome. Ample hotel accommodations will be found, of a 
superior character, on the simimit. 

ROUTES OF APPROACH. 

The main routes of apjjroach to the AVhite Mountains are up the four 
great valleys, through which flow the waters from this region, — the 
Merrimac and Pemigewasset, the Saco, Androscoggin, and Ammonoosuc, 
a tributary of the Connecticut. Through each of these valleys railroads 
have been constructed; some extending to the mountains, othei's con- 
tinued by stages, while each connects with tributary roads leadhig fi-om 
distant parts of the country. Visitors from Boston and vicinity have 
the choice of four routes. The Boston, Concord, and Montreal Rail- 
road extends up the Merrimac, Pemigewasset, and Ammonoosuc Rivers 
to the base of Mount "Washington. This is also the dii'ect line to Beth- 
lehem, Franconia Mountains, Plymouth, and Lake Winnepesaukee via. 
Weir's. The Conway Branch of the Eastern Railroad conveys pas- 
sengers to North Conway, where intersection is made with the " Portland 
and Ogdeiisburg, " by which they continue to the mountains. Tourists 
can also visit Lake Wiimepesaukee by the Wolfboro' Branch of this road. 

Passengers from Boston and Portland, by the Boston and j\Iaine Rail- 
road, reach the White Mountains via the valley of the Cocheco to Lake 
Winnepesaukee; thence by a delightful steamboat sail to Wolfboro' and 
Centre Harbor, continuing by stage and rail through the valley of the 
Saco, as above. 

Another route is to continue to Portland by the " Eastern," " Boston 
and Maine," or by steamer, and thence by the Portland and Ogdensbiu'g 
Railroad, up the Presumpseot and Saco valleys to North Conway, where 
the train receives tourists by the Eastern and Boston and Maine Rail- 
roads, and continues up the valley of the Saco, through the " Notch " to 
the Crawford and Fabyan Houses,* where connection is made with the 
Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroad. 

The approach through the Androscoggin valley, from Portland and the 
East, is by the Grand Trunk Railway to Gorham, and thence eight miles 
by stage to the Glen 'House. Travellers from New York to the moun- 
tains via Boston will take one of these routes. There are, however, 
inside lines connecting with the several Sound boats, which intersect the 

* At the date of writing, tlie road is completed to Bemis Station, within eight miles of 
the "Notch," with flattering prospects of being finished before this meets the eye 
of the reader. 



32 POPULAR KESORTS, AND IIOAV TO REACH TIIEM. 

"Boston, Concord, and Montreal," without passing through Boston. 
Tourists by the Norwich or Stonington Lines, or by all rail from New 
York, can also go by the Worcester, Nashua, and Nashua and Rochester 
Railroads, intersecting the Boston, Concord, and Montreal, Boston and 
Maine, or Eastern Railroad routes to the mountains. If the trip be made 
by all rail from New York, travellers can take the Connecticut ^"alley Rail- 
road at Springfield, continuing to AVells River, where intersection is made 
with the Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroad, and passengers will 
reach the mountains by that line. In approaching from Montreal or 
Quebec via Grand Trunk Railroad, tourists can also strike the mountains 
on either the east or west side. If the former is desirable, continue on 
the Grand Trunk to Gorham, and thence by stage eight miles to the 
Glen House. If the west side is preferred, change from the Grand 
Trunk to the " Boston, Concord, and Montreal," at Northumberland, by 
which you are taken direct to the Twin Mountain or Fabyan Houses. 
Visitors to Bethlehem or the Franconia Range must make this change. 
Montreal and Quebec passengers may also go to the White INIountains 
via St. Johns, Canada, and continue thence by the Soutli-eastern Rail- 
road to Newport and AVells River. Those from Lake George go by 
Burlington and Montpelier to WeJls River. From Saratoga, they can 
cross the lake to Burlington, or go by Rutland to Bellows Falls; and in 
either case intersect the Boston, Concord, and Montreal Road at Wells 
River, and reach the mountains by that line. Each of the above routes 
has its individual attractions. The termini of the several railroads are 
connected with each other, and with the Summer Houses, by lines of 
coaches. Parties can also secure private carriages for transportation 
throu;ghout the mountains, which will be found one of the most enjoyable 
features of the excursion. 

FRANCONIA MOUNTAINS. 

The group of which Mount Lafayette, having an altitude of fifty- 
two hundred feet, is the central figure, is locally known as the Franconia 
Range. These mountains are situated about thirty miles south-west 
from the White Mountains proper, and, by their many points of scenic 
interest, successfully rival their more pretentious neighbors. Mount 
Lafayette commands a magnificent prospect. It is reached by a bridle- 
path, but the ascent is arduous. Here, also, is located that remarkable 
phenomenon. Profile Mountain (elsewhere alluded to), which is im- 
questionably the most wonderful natural curiosity in the country; while 
many other attractive features combine to render this a resort of great 
popularity. As before observed, the scenery on each of the above rail- 
way lines is entirely different, as shown by the accompanying illustrated 
pleasure routes. 



POPULAR RESOKTS, AXI) HOW TO BEACH THEM. S'i 



ILLUSTRATED PLEASURE ROUTE No. 1. 

Boston, Lowell, Worcester, Nashua, Salem, Lawrence, 
Manchester, and Concord to Lake Winnepesaukee, Fran- 
conia and White Mountains, Bethlehem, Lake Mem- 
phremagog, Montreal, and Quebec. 

BOSTON, CONCORD, AND MONTREAL RAILROAD. 

The increase of travel to the White Mountains during the past few 
years has been something remarkable. The ease with which the trip 
can now be made, even by the aged or by invalids, has wrought this 
change. Cars of the most approved styles, ecpiipped with all modern 
improvements, ai-e run through without change from Boston and from the 
New- York boats. Hotels furnished with the comforts and luxuries of 
home spring vip from the depths of the forest, and even crown the rocky 
summit of Mount Washington. A commendable emulation has actuated 
the several railroad companies, each striving to excel the other by add- 
ing- to the comforts and conveniences of tourists. 

To-day the Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroad leads the 
van by placing its patrons at the end of their journey with the least 
effort to themselves. Its rails stretch to the base of Mount Washington ; 
nay, by the patronage of this road, the cars now climb to the crest of that 
grand old peak, where they deposit travellers on the platform of an excel- 
lent hotel which has been built to shelter them. With the exception of a 
short ride from the Fabyan House to the Mount Washington R.R. Dejiot 
(six miles), there is a continuous line from Boston to the top of Mount 
Washington. This route receives more patronage, and distributes its 
patrons through more connecting lines, than any other. 

Among the most prominent roads which contribute to swell the travel 
on the Boston, Concord, and Montreal, are the Portsmouth and Concord 
Railroad, Boston and Maine, Manchester and Lawrence, and Concord, 
with passengers from Bus/on, Li/nn, Salem, Lawrence, Manchester, and the 
East ; the Boston, Lowell, and Nashua, with guests from those cities ; 
Framingham and Lowell, and its connections, with passengers from Nem 
Bedford, Newport, Taunton, Fall River, and Providence, and the New-York 
and Stoninf/ton lines of steamers; the Worcester and Nashua, with its 
local and New-York travel; and the Connecticut-River and Passumpsic 
Railways, with their numerous branches and connecting, lines. Each of 
these roads must send its White-Mountain travel over the rails of the 
Boston, Concord, and Montreal. 



34 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



Passengers from Boston take the cars at the Boston, Lov/ell, and Nashua 
Depot, or go by the ' ' Boston and Maine ' ' from Ilaymarket Square to 
Lawrence, and thence via the Concord Raih'oad to Manchester, where 
the train connects with that from Boston by the Boston, Lowell, and 
Nashua Railroad, and the two united continue to the mountains. 

The Boston, Lowell, and Nashua Road is, perhaps, the legitimate route. 
This is made popular by the excellence of its equipments and running 

stock, and the 
promptness and 
regularity of its 
express trains, ar- 
ranged at hours 
calculated to meet 
the wants of pleas- 
ure travel. Its de- 
pot, on Causeway 
Street, being one 
of the finest struc- 
tures of the kind 
in the United 
States, is not only 
very popular with 
the travelling 
public, but it has 
come to be an ob- 
ject of interest to 
strangers. A large 

share of summer patronage is that in transit from New York and the 
South, through Roston, to the interior resorts of New Hampshire. The 
New York trains reach Boston early in the morning, at six or half past. 
The express train for the mountains leaves, by this road, at eight, a.m.; 
and the object was to construct a depot so ample in its appointments, so 
thorough in its equipments and conveniences, as to preclude the necessity 
of going to a hotel ; and travellers will find, at the Lowell Depot, draw- 
ing rooms as elaborately furnished and conducted, and restaurants where 
meals are as well served, as at first-class hotels generally; thus affording 
to the wearied, travel-worn tourist, abundant facilities for toilet and rest 
before the resumption of his journey. 

The ease with which the Lowell Depot is reached by public conveyance 
is also a feature of interest to the traveller. It is within fifty feet of the 
Eastern Railroad Depot, and within two minutes walk of the "Fitch- 
burg" or " Boston and Maine;" while the depots in the southern por- 
tion of the city are connected with this by horse-cars, which pass the 
door every few minutes. 




LOWELL AND NASHUA DEPOT, 
Causeway Street, Boston. 



POPULAK KESOKTS, AND HOW TO KEACII THEM. 85 

In the construction of this building, the architect has not only sought 
to combine all the advantages possible for the accommodations of the 
railroad, and the convenience of its patrons ; but in its design and execu- 
tion the city has secured an ornament in architecture of which its citi- 
zens may well be proud. The accompanying cut entirely fails to convoy 
an idea of either its magnitude or finish. The " train-house,"' 565 feet 
in length, has been entirely ignored by the artist; but its ample propor- 
tions, completely covering the trains upon the several tracks, will, in the 
protection it gives, be aj^preciated by the public. 

The principal tower is 148 feet high, the central dome 113 feet, and 
the east tower 104 feet. The central front of the building is occupied 
by the ladies' grand reception-room, 54 by 25 feet, which is elabor- 
ately finished and richly furnished. Upon its right and left resj^ectively 
are also waiting-rooms for gentlemen and ladies. At the left of the 
main tower is the dining-room; and upon the same floor are baggage- 
rooms, barber-shop, toilet rooms, drinking fountains, and every conve- 
nience required by travellers. 

The entrance is through archways at either end, of sufficient capacity 
for foot-passengers and carriages, a great convenience in stormy weather. 

From these the entrance is to the main court, where the first impres- 
sion of the magnitude of this building is felt. This court is 92 feet 
long by 52 feet wide, and extends from floor to ceiling, past three 
stories, a distance of 76 feet. The floor is covered with marble tiles 
in unique design. Ten pilasters at the sides, and six at the ends, 
continue to the I'oof, and, standing oue above the other, support the 
balconies on the sides which lead to the various offices of the company. 
Between each pilaster is an arched-top doorway or window, opening to 
rooms beyond, an arrangement which gives great richness to the finish. 
The doors on the side open from the main entrance, and to the dining 
and baggage rooms; those at the south enter the reception-rooms, and 
those at the north lead to the trains; and between these is the ticket- 
office. The entire finish is in ash, elaborately carved. The ceiling is 
glass and stucco. From this depot the trains are made up for Lake 
Winnepesaukee, the Franconia Mountains, Northern New Hampshire 
and Vermont, Northern New York, Canada, and the West. 

Passengers from Boston can also take the cars at the Boston and Maine 
Depot. These trains unite at Mancliesler, New Hainpshire, and continue 
through Concord to the Pabyan House, at the base of Mount AVashing- 
ton. This route is made pleasant and interesting by the many streams and 
bodies of water along which itjiasses, among which maybe mentioned the 
Charlea and Mystic Rivers ; the Merrimac, along whose banks it follows for 
many miles; the Suncook ?^\\di Winnepesaukee Rivers ; Lake Winnesquam, Lit- 
tle Bay, Lake Winnepesaukee, Waukaxoan Lake, Long Pond, Pemigewasset, and 




a, </> 

'„ O 

V O 

•S X 



ropiLAK lacsDiiis, and now to iikai a tiikm. 37 

Bakers Rivers; the Connecticut, Welb, Aminnnoosuc, awA /sniel's Rivers; 
and many other smaller streams and ponds. 

We strike the Merrimac at Luwrence or Lowell, following it past Man- 
chester and Concord, crossing and re-crossing it at times. The beauty of 
its course is frequently varied by picturesque falls, affording more im- 
proved water-power than any river in the country. The falls at Law- 
rence, Lowell, Aiiipsteaf/, and Hooksett are particularly noticeable. 

The accompanying cut, representing Hooksett Falls, also shows the 
Suncook Valley Railroad, which leads to Pittsjiehl, N.H., a thrivino- and 
l>eautiful village nestled among high hills, which are dotted with farm- 
houses, that are fast becoming popular with boarders from cities. 

This route also leads- through the heart of the cotton-manufacturing 
interest of New England ; passing Lawrence, Lowell, and Manchester, be- 
sides many smaller manufacturing-towns. Concord, the beautiful 
capital city of New Hampshire, possesses many features which make it 
a favorite resort during the summer and autumn months. It contains 
nbout 12,500 inhabitants; yet all are so comfortably domiciled, that it 
is frequently remarked by strangers " 'Where do 3'our poor live? " The 
shaded concrete walks of the city add much to the comfort of visitors. 

The State Capitol stands in the centre of a small but beautiful square, 
handsomely laid out, and ornamented with broad-sjireading trees. The 
structure is of pleasing architecture, built of native granite, for which 
the vicinity is noted, the whole surmounted by a lofty dome. Imme- 
diately fronting the State House, on the main street, is the Eagle Hotel, 
a fine brick structure, which is widely known as a first-class house. The 
"Eagle " x'eceives much of its foreign patronage from parties, who. after 
starting for the mountains, prefer to spend a few days at Concord before 
leaving for the season; and particularly from those returning in the 
autumn, driven in by the early frosts, who always find here and in the 
vicinity a few weeks of charming weather. 

Among the other public buildings may be named the Court House, 
Churches, Schools, City Hall, State Prison, and State Asylum for Insane. 

The two latter institutions are in fine condition. The Prison, unlike 
those of many States, is made a paying institution. The Asylum has 
been built 32 years, and is very successfully conducted. 

Concord is somewhat celebrated for its manufactures, particularly 
of carriages and coaches, which ai"e shipped extensively to all parts of the 
world. As a railroad centre, Concord presents admirable facilities for 
intercourse with various sections of the country. 

The line proper of the Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroad starts 
from Concord, though its cars and those of the Boston, Lowell and 
Nashua, the Framingham and Lowell, and the Worcester and Nashua 
Roads, run through from those cities, and continue to the mountains. 




1- c 

C D 
O O 



"^ O 
." 1- 

w -J 



sS 



=6S- 

o c 



I'OJ'LLAli KESOHTS, AND JlOW TO KEACII THEM. 39 

A few miles above Concord, the road again crosses tlie Merrimac, 
and leads away towards Lake Wiiuiepexaukee. 

Tillon is the first town of interest. This was formerly known as San- 
bornton Bridge. It is a' thriving manufacturing village, and forms the 
centre of a large agricultural region. The Methodist Seminary located 
here, a good view of which appears in the engraving, has been long and 
favorably known. TUlon possesses an' unusually fine water-power, not 
computed by its volume alone, but by its great regularity. The river 
which runs through the place is the outlet of Lake WIniicpesaukee, in 
which large reservoir the water is held in reserve by the water-power 
company which owns it, to supjily the cotton-manufactories at Lowell 
and Lawrence during the droughts of summer. 

There is a charm in this whole region for summer life. JSTot only the 
town of Sanbornton, from which Tilton is an offshoot, but Canterbury 
and Meredith, Belmont and (iilmanton, all furnish desirable summer 
homes. The topography is particularly adapted to promote the health 
of its inhabitants. The land is generally high and rolling, and has been 
so long cleared that the climate is fully established. 

A stage leaves Tilton, on the arrival of the morning train, for Gilman- 
ton Academy, passing through Belmont, formerly know n as Upper Gil- 
manton. Gilmanton is becoming popular as a summer residence for 
persons from Boston and New York, who build here houses for the warm 
season. It possesses the advantage of good and long-established institu- 
tions of learning, and is sought by persons having a family. Al- 
though supplied with daily mail and stage connections, there is no railroad 
within its border's ; and, w-ith a society cultivated by its fine schools, it 
possesses much of that pristine character which characterized New Eng- 
land towns of earlier days. Loiver Gihnantnn is reached by the '• Con- 
cord " and " Suncook Valley Railroad " to Pittsfield, and Gilmanton Iron 
Works by the " Boston and Maine " to Alton, and thence by stages. From 
Tilton the road follows the Win)iepe.taukee River, and the shores of Little 
Bdji and Winnesquam T^ake, past Union Brifh/e. to Laconia. 

Although undeveloped at present, this region possesses many features 
calculated to make it pojnilar with the seeker after health and pleasure. 
Winnesquam Lake is some twelve or fifteen miles in length, is beautiful 
in form and suiToundings, and, but for its more pretentious rival Win- 
nepesaukee, would have, ere this, received the attention which its merits 
deserve. It has long been known as the home for the lake trout, and 
somewhat famed for its piscatorial advantages. Two small summer 
houses furnish accommodation for visitors, — the Winnesquam at the 
lower end of the lake, and the Ba// View, which is admirably located in 
the suburbs of Laconia. The cars pass between it and the lake, and 
leave passengers when requested. 



POPULAR RKSOIM'S, AND HOW TO UKACII THEM. 



41 



The route, which from Concord lies tliroiigli an lUKutPiVHtins;' country, 
now fairly enters tlie lake and mountain regit)n. 1'lie scenery does not 
possess the yi-andeur of the Wliite-lNIountain section ; yet it is marked by 
many elements of pictures(ine beauty. Its water-views are fiuf ; a distant 
line of mountain-peaks cuts the horizon. It is only five miles, over a ji^ood 
country road, to Mount Belknap, which is easily accessible, and from 
whose barren summit may be had one of the finest landscape- views on 
the Atlantic slope. It vai-ies from the Bed-Hill prospect by havins: Lake 
Winnepesaukee and the entire i>roup of the Wliite and Fninconia Moun- 
tdhis in the same A'iew. The steamer " Mount Wasliington " can be dis- 
tinctly seen soon after it leaves Allo)t. Ba>/, and traced on its way for more 
than twenty-five miles to Wolfboro'' and Centre Harbor. The steamer 
'• Lady of the Lake " can also be followed in it.-^; tortuous course from 
\Veir\H to Centre Harbor and Wolfboro'. From this elevated position 
a mvich better idea of the g'l-eat number of islands is olitained than while 
sailing on the lake. Beyond its placid waters the mountain ranges rise 
in successive peaks ; and towering above all is the well-known "Presi- 
dential Group," of which Mount Washington is the commanding centre. 

Mount Belknap is at present but little known to the travelling public ; 
but its pleasant a[)i>roach, easy access, and magnificent " View " must 
eventually bring it into great popularity. Visitors to Laconia will find 
the Bay View House (seen on the riglit of the engraving) delightfully 
located, and surrounded by beautiful scenery. It is noted alike for its 
good table, home-like atmosphere, and reasonable terms. 

Lake Village 
is but a mile 
and a half from 
Laconia : their 
suburbs meet ; 
and the towns 
are seemingly 
one. The views 
in the vicinity 
are very like 
those near La- 
conia. Indeed, 
the same moun- 
tain ranges may 
be seen in the 

distance, though tlie water foreground is different. There is nothing 
grand in the scenery as the train steams away towards the lake, but it is 
very picturesque. At Weir'a Station passengers change for Wolfboro', Cen- 
tre Harbor, and Conwnt/. Within the past year a Methodist camp-meet- 




LAKE VILLAGE, N.H. 
Boston, Concord, and Montreal R.R. 




«§ S: 



I'OPULAIt KKSOUTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM. 43 

iii.t? ground has been dedicated in a (lelii;httul grove adjoining the station, 
which bids fair to increase tlie popuhirity of this charming spot. Several 
commodious buildings have already been erected : lots for cottages have 
been secured on a site commanding a magnificent view of the lake, with 
fine boat and railroad accommodations. Those who desire to visit Wolf- 
horo\ Centre Harbor, or Coined// will find the commodious little steamer 
Lady of the Lake awaiting them at the landing. Arrangements have 
been made to run the boat from \Volfboro' to ^Veir"s, and rice rerm, to ac- 
commodate tourists to and from tlie Franconia Mountains. The dis- 
tance to Wolfboro' is twenty miles, and to Centre Harbor but half that, 
although the latter route seems to combine all the beauties of the lake. 
When the steamer leaves the wharf, the jutting points of the adjacent 
islands would seem to bar our progress ; but, as it spe(>ds its way, the vie\\- 
unfolds, the channel opens ; and we wind our pleasant course among the 
islands, at times so near that the ovei-hanging branches almost sweep 
the boat. The lake is from twenty-five to thirty miles long, and varies 
from one to eight miles wide. It contains about sixty-nine square 
miles, and nearly three hundred islands, on many of which are fine 
farms, and several are used for grazing. Its surface is 472 feet above 
the level of the sea. The numerous islands which dot its bosom, the 
beautiful hills which hem it in, and its many points and inlets, combine 
to make Wiiniepesaukee one of the most pleasing inland resorts in the 
coimtry. The sedative influence and peculiar quiet of the scene, dui-- 
ing the charming days of an Indian summer, with the bright tints of an 
autumnal foliage, graduating to the soft haze of the mountain blue, re- 
flected in its waters, is most wonderful. At Centre House or Wolf- 
boro' 'for days and weeks the tourist lingers, forgetting, among the 
quiet beauties of nature, the cares of a business-life. The excur- 
sion to Centre Harbor also forms one of the most delightful clai/-trlps 
from Boston. Leaving the city at S o'clock in the morning, via the 
Boston, Concord, and Montreal R.R. and steamer " Lady of the Lake," the 
visitor will have an hour for dinner at Centre Harbor, returning by the 
steamer "Mount Washington," and Boston and Maine Railroad, to Boston 
the same evening, thus passing through the cities of Lowell, Nashua, 
Manchester, Concord, Dover, Haverhill, and Lawrence, with the inter- 
vening towns, and ti*aversing the entire length and breadth of Lake 
Winnepesaukee, by both routes, in a single day. 

It would be easy to introduce pages of description from the pens of 
visitors ; but all are embodied in the following quotation from that 
eminent writer, Edward Evkuett. 

" I have been something of a traveller In our own country, — though far 
less than I could wish, — and in Europe have seen all that is most attractive. 



J>01'IIL.AB RESORTS, AND HOW TO RKACII TIIKM. 



45 



from the Highlands of Srothuid to the Golden Horn of (-'onstantinople, 
from the summit of Hartz Mountain.s to the Fountain of Vaucluse; but my 
eye has yet to rest on a lovelier scene than that which smiles around you as 
you sail from Weir's Landing to Centre Harbor." 



From Weir's LandiiK/ the train continues northward past Meredith, a 
pleasant villag-e located on the shores of the lake, from which steamers 
run to other villages during portions of the year. Above Mereditli the 
route leads for four miles along the south shore of Wciddirdn Luke. 

Long Pond ou the right is 

-= — ^^^-='^'^--— --i -^-^-- " tlienextbodyof water passed, 

_j^ ^ the train gliding safely mider 

^" ' ' the shadow of Ragged ]\Ioun- 

luiiu whose rocky sides have 
been bhisted away to givepas- 
sage to the cars. This scenery 
and that around Asldand. is 
very line; and nuaiy a toui'ist 
artistically inclined will be 
lured from the cars to visit 
it. The Pemifjeir((sset aud 
S(iiiiiin Eivers. which unite 
here, furnish many landscape 
" bits " of artistic beauty. 
The course of Si/u(iiii Hirer 
is not along our route ; but 
the lover of the beautiful 
who would follow it three 
miles, to its source in Squant 
Lake, will be amply repaid. 
Squam J^ake has already 
been alluded to in a visit 
from Centre Harbor ; but no 
single description can ex- 
haust its picturesque beau- 
ties. Indeed, this whole 
„ - ^.,»-.,^-«»^^.«.c=.^^r--v.»,,«»^™^^ region possesses peculiar 

RAGGED MOUNTAINS LONG POND, MEREDITH, N.H. charms for the liberated 

Boston, Concord, and Montreal R. R. citlZeU of OUr larger tOWUS, 

where weeks or months may be quietly spent ; and, if he makes up his 
mind in advance to take the accommodations as he fin.ls them, he cannot 
fail to be pleased. Unfortunately, no large hotel has yet been built here ; 





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POl'ULAK HESOUTS, AND HOW TO llEACH THEM. 



47 



but it is but ii short drive from Centre Harbor, wliere all the quiet 
comforts of home will be fouiid. 

Ashland was formerly known as I/otdcnwss, ami is remembered l)y mem- 
bers of the Episcopal denomination as one of the first places where that 
society flourished in this part of the State. Above Ashland we enter the 
valley of the Pemu/en-assct, which we follow to Pljimouth. 

The stranger will be jiarticularly struck by the purity of the water in 
the wayside streams flowing from s])rings on the mountain sides. They 
furnish admirable nurseries for the speckled trout with which they gen- 
erally abound. 

The approach to Plymouth is very picturesque. The line of the road 
is along the banks of the river, which meanders its course through rich 
meadows, shaded here and there by broad-sweeping elms. On either 
side are high wooded hills, which, by gentle grade, sweep down to the 




PEMIGEWASSET HOUSE. 

valley below; while beyond in the blue distance are the Franconia 
Mountains. As you are whirled rapidly into the town, the Pemige- 
wasset House, which in the distance seemed a mere speck among the 
trees, rises invitingly before; you. 

On reaching town, the train stops immediately in rear of the hotel ; 
and, with an evident knowledge of the good things within, the passengers 



48 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



soon fill ths long dining-rooms of the house, or the restaurants attached 
to it. Ample time is given for dinner, full thirty minutes, before the 
conductor cries, " All aboard ! " But here we find that many of our com- 
panions have left us, though the number is made good by others, who 
have been spending a few days at this enjoyable place. Plymouth is 
deservedly one of the most popular resorts \\\ Xew Hampshire. It is a 
compact village, with several fine churches, schools, county buildings, 
railroad offices, &c. But tourists visit Plymouth for its delightful sur- 
roundings, pleasant drives, and magnificent scenery, and no less for 
the popularity of its noble hotel, the Pemigewasset House. 

This elegant and spacious hotel is delightfully situated on the banks, 
of the Pemigewasset, near its confluence with Baker's River. The halls, 
parlors, and dining-rooms are large, light, and handsomely furnished. 
The chambers are high and well-ventilated. There are bath-rooms with 
hot and cold water, and all the modern cojiveniences of a first-class, 
house. It is under the patronage of the Boston, Concord, and Montreal 
Railroad, and is frequented by persons of culture and taste, some 
having secured rooms for nine consecutive years. An air of refinement 
pervades its atmosphere, which is immediately ye/< by visitors. 

LivEHMORE Falls are on 
"° ~"~ " a wild turbid stream, which 

forces its way along a rugged 
bed of shattered I'ocks. The 
road-way cj-osses by a light, 
airy bridge immediately below 
the falls, affording an oppor- 
tunity to view them without 
leaving the carriage. Where 
there are so many pleasant 
drives as in the vicinity of 
Plymouth, it is difficult to 
particularize ; indeed, with the 
fine turn-outs furnished at 
the hotel, one can scarcely go 

LIVERMORE FALLS, PLYMOUTH, N.H. ^^™^«-^- '^^^ ^^^^^^ ''^^^^^^^ ^''>'/- 

Boston, Concord, and Montreal R.R. ?no«</; M.IS very highly Spok en 

of ; and a longer excursion by private conveyance up the valley of the 
Pemigewasset to Franconia Notch is delightful. 

Mount Prospect is much visited. A carriage-road leads to its summit, 
which is 2,963 feet above the sea. It commands a landscape view of 
rare beauty, embracing the Franconia and White Mountains, and this 
entire lake-region, of which Winnepe.mukce is the most noted. There 
are also several elevations in the immediate neighborhood of the village, 
which pedestrians will delight to visit. 




POPUI.AR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH TIIEM. 49 

STAGE-ROUTE FROM PLYMOUTH TO THE FRANCONIA 
MOUNTAINS. 

There are those who would find their visit to the mountains unsatis- 
factory without a stage-ride : to such the writer can recommend the 
route from Pli/mouth to the Profile House. It is over a good i-oad, 
and through one of the most picturescjue regions of New Hainpsliire. 
Artists do not generally spend their summers at the mountain-houses. Ixit 
select some desirable field for their labors. The route from Plymouth 
to the Profile House passes through Compton and Woodstocl; which is 
emphatically Sijitld for arlisls. where, through the months of summer and 
autumn they gather the choice hits which occupy their winter months, and 
delight their friends at home. A more interesting drive can scarcely be 
conceived. The road passes near the Flume. This is a wonderful freak 
of nature, — an upright fissure in the rocks, which have been forced asun- 
der by some mighty convulsion ; while high up their sides is held in un- 
yielding grasp a huge bowlder, beneath which a wild mountain torrent 
dashes its feathery spray. The Pool is a curiositj^ scarcely less interest- 
ing, and should be visited by the tourist. An impetuous stream, shaded 
by forest trees, walled in by ])recipitous ledges, escaping from the 
thicket above, leaps from the R)cks into the deepening gloom below. The 
Ikmn is passed at the road-side, and is an exceedingly attractive feature. 
Here a mountain torrent rushes obliquely into a rocky caldron, ai'ound 
w hich for ages past the waters with dizzy whirl have polished its granite 
sides. The Old Man of the Mdniilain is seen on the left a half mile 
before reaching the Profile House ; and it is better to visit it late in 
the afternoon, with the liright sky behind it. It requires no stretch 
of the imagination to detect tlie cold, sharp outline of the human profile 
chiselled in colossal proportions by the hand of natm-e. This is unques- 
tionably the most remarkable natural curiosity in this country, if not in 
the world. The likeness is formed of three blocks of granite, high up 
the mountain-side, located rods apart ; yet when viewed from one particu- 
lar spot the profile is perfect. It is 70 feet from chin to forehead ; yet 
the lines are softened by distance. The beautiful lake at the foot of 
the mountain is known as the Old Mans Washbowl. Echo Lake, near the 
Profile House, is also one of the points of interest. 

The ascent of ^[t. LafaiicJtc is made from here, and is scarcely less in- 
teresting than that of ]\It. Washington, although much more difficult and 
fatiguing, as it must be done on horseback, unless the tourist is a good 
pedestrian. This locality can also be visited with a quarter-part the 
stage-coach ride by keeping the cars to Littleton. Resuming our 
seats in the cars at Plymouth, the train for twenty miles continues up 
the valley of Baker's River. There is nothing striking in the scenery ; 



50 POPULAR EESOETS, AND HOW TO BEACH THEM. 

but tHe mountains and river present varied combinations of forms in 
which the tourist will not fail to be interested. In the vicinity of 
Warren the mountains become bolder and more rugged; and the 
time is not far distant when this locality will be largely frequented by 
lovers of fine scenery. Even now the small hotel in the village, and 
many private boarding-houses, are well patronized. A wild mountain 




OWL'S HEAD AND MOOSILAUKE, WARREN, N.H. 
Boston, Concord, and Montreal R.R. 

stream in the suburbs has several waterfalls and pretty cascades, 
which are well worth visiting. A good carriage-road leads to the sum- 
mit of Moosilauke, five miles away. This mountain is 4,600 feet high, 
end commands a magnificent prospect. Visitors will find accommoda- 
tions at the Summit House. A fine view of Moosilauke may be had 
from the right of the cars, while going northward. A few miles above 



POPULAK RKSORTS, ANB HOW TO KEACU THEM. 51 

"Warren, is a liigh barren clitf, called Owl's Ilawl, which rises precip- 
itously above the siuTouudiiig forests. This locality presents many- 
points of interest, i)articularly for a pedestrian, who, with fishing-tackle 
or gun, may while away a few weeks in autumn. 

The rugged form of fw'/'.v lleail, combined with Muns'dauke, and the 
green meadows which surround them, make a beautiful landscape. In- 
deed, the scenery is all fine along this section of the route. IlaverJillI, a 
few rniles farther on, is a pleasant village : the public buildings of Grafton 
County are located here. The line of the road has led us gradually towards 
the Connecticut. On our left are the rich bottoms which skirt its borders; 
and the thriving village of Newbury, Vt., can be seen across the river. 

The train crosses the Connecticut at Woodsville to Welb River, where 
connection is made with the Passumpsic, Montpelier, and Wells River 
Railroads. After receiving their White Mountain passengers, the cars 
re-cross to the east bank, and continue up the Ainnionoosuc. This is 
indeed a pleasing stream. Its course is broken by falls and rapids; and 
its waters are swept by the branches of overhanging trees. The next 
village passed is Bath, which is charmingly situated on the bank of the 
river, and presents a very picturesque appearance. Lisbon is but a few 
miles farther on. This is a very interesting village, and pleasantly 
located. The discovery of a gold-mine has given it interest. ' ' Passump- 
sic " passengers for Newport and Lake Memphreinagog diverge here. 

Littleton is the largest and most populous village in this section of the 
State. It contains several hotels and boarding-houses, among which 
Thayer's is the best- known. The scenery at Littleton presents many 
artistic combinations. The village is built mostly on the right bank 
of the rivei-, extending up the hillside. From the upper portion of 
the town is had an excellent view of the Wliile Mountains, flanked by the 
Franconia Mountains, and other ranges equally interesting. 

Littleton contains about 2500 inhabitants, and is well supplied with 
churches, schools, banks, and printing-offices. Indeed, it seems a minia- 
ture city, yet so small that ten minutes' walk in any direction will take 
you into the delightful suburbs, where all the pleasures and amusemeiats 
of the country may be enjoyed. During the summer months the number 
of inhabitants is largely increased. The atmosphere is exhilarating, and 
the water pure, for which so many come heree, wher more home com- 
forts can be enjoyed, in preference to going to the mountain-houses. 
From Littleton, tourists can easily visit the more important points of 
interest. Mount Washimjton, the White Mountain-Notch, Pool, Flume, 
Profile, and many other interesting places, can be visited in a day, and 
return the same night. Stages to the Profile House and I'ranconia Moun- 
tains leave here twice daily. No tourist to the. mountains can afford to 
pass the Franconia Notch, without a call. Indeed, it is one of the few 



I'ori i,AU jm;souts, and how to jikacii tiikji. 



53 



places where the traveller lingers. The Profile House, near the Notch, 
is oue of the largest and best appointed in New England. 

Seven miles above Littleton the Win// llottd branches to the right, and 
continues past JJef/ilcIiem and Twin Mountain House to the Fabyan 
Hotel at the foot of Mount Washington. 

The next station of importance on the main line is Whitejidd, exten- 
sively known for its lumber operations, but more recently as a summer- 
resoi't. In the neighborhood are some fine views of mountain scenery ; 
and the place is fast growing in popidarity, which may also be said of 
Dallon, the next station on the line. 

Lancaster is one of the most beautiful villages in Northern New 
Hampshire. It is well laid out. has concrete walks, and fine shade- 




LANCASTER HOUSE, 

Lancaster, N.H. 

trees ornament its streets. The architecture is good; and tasteful gar- 
dens are everywhere to be seen. There are six churches, a public 
library, and other public buildings ; and throughout the town pervades 
an air of taste and refinement. The village is built in an immense 
amphitheatre, surrounded by hills and mountains, which are reached by 
excellent roads, affording some of the most delightful drives in the State. 
The view from Lunenhurci Hills, Vt., is unsurpassed. Israel's River passes 
through, and the Connecticixt near the town. There are several hotels, 
the most prominent being the Lancaster House. 

The Lancaster House is superior to most houses situated so far 
from the centres of trade. It accommodates conveniently 1.50 guests. 



POPULAU UKSOKTS, ANO HOW TO HRACH THKM. 55 

The rooms are large and liioh-posted. Froin the ample cupola which 
surmounts it, the view of the W/iilr Mouiiliun Jtanf/f, Stratford Peaks, Starr 
Kin;/, Pilot Puimje, Mt. Xi/ori, and the green hills of Vermont, is unsur- 
passed. Parlor-cars run through the village from Canada, Boston, Fall 
River, Newport, New London, and Worcester. Lancaster is a town well 
calculated to please the visitor who would make it his home during the 
summer or autumn months. 

77/e Wuumbec House is but eight miles away, and can be reached by 
stage. This and other houses in Jefferson are in a romantic locality, 
which will well repay a visit. 

From Lancaster the train continues to Northumberland, where connec- 
tion is made with the Grand Trunk Railroad for Canada and the West. 

Percy or Stratford Peaks are northern outstanding sjiurs of the 
White JMountains; bold and i-ugged in outline, grand in effect, yet loss 
popular with the tourist than those forming the principal group of the 
White Mountains proper, or those which are farther south. These 
mountains are visited from the village of Northumberland, where the 
Boston, Concord, and Montreal, and Grand Trunk Railroads intersect. A 
charter has been obtained by the Boston, Concord, and JNIontreal Com- 
pany to construct a railroad to the Canada line ; this will ojien up a new 
and varied field for the tourist, happily divided into rich, arable land, 
and wild, interesting scenery. 

Dixville Notch. — In the extreme northern section of New Hamp- 
shire, near the Canada line, there is a barren region, sparsely inhabited, 
yet rich in pictui-esque grandeur. It is a favorite resort of the few, 
though but little known to the general toiu-ist. The altitude is high, 
the atmosphere clear and dry, and the water pure and sweet. 

The streams abound in speckled trout. This is near the head-waters 
of the Connecticut and Androscoggin Rivers ; the former flowing south- 
ward through New Hampshire, Vermont. Massachusetts, and Connecticut, 
into Long Island Sound; the latter bearing eastward, skirting the base 
of the White Mountains, and moving through New Haiii]>shire and 
Maine into the broad Atlantic. Dixville Notch has many objects of 
interest. A rugged pinnacle, five hundred and sixty-one feet above the 
carriage-road, approached by a rough stone stairway, is called Table Rock. 
Jacob's Ladder is the name which has been given to the path that reaches 
it. Another path near at hand leads to the Ice Cave, a protected gorge 
where the snows lodge in winter, and remain throughout the summer. 
Dixville Notch, which is a mile and a half long, like the White Mountain 
Notch, has' its towering rocks, grand Flume, turbulent stream, and its 
snowy cascades. 



5(5 



POPULAR KESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



The Connecticut Lake, lying to the northward, is also a feature of 
this unfrequented region. It may be i-eached from C'olebrook, twenty- 
five miles, by stage. A pleasure steamer has been placed on its waters. 
The principal lake is but five and a half by two and a half miles ; a sec- 
ond, four miles away, reached by a forest path, is but half this size; a 
third and fourth, both small, are beyond. These lakes are well stocked 
with fish, whose unfamiliarity with the sports of civilization make this a 
desirable locality for a " camping-out " party, though comfortable hotel 
accommodations can be had. This is similar to the Lake Umbagog 
region described elsewhere. 

Resximing our route on tlie Wing Road (see index), we follow up tlu- 




RAILROAD STATION, BETHLEHEM, N.H, 
Boston, Concord, and Montreal R.R. 

banks of the Ammonoosuc : though for several miles there is nothing in 
the character of the scenery to indicate to the tourist that he is rapidly 
approaching one of the most celebrated summer-resorts in America. 

BelMehem Slalion is the first stopping-place. The village of Belhlahcm, 
two miles from the station, is one of the favorite summer residences 
in the mountain-region. With the increasing popularity of AVhite 
Mountain travel come large numbers as sight-seers and pleasure-seekers : 
still, there are many who visit the highlands of New Hamiishire for the 
water pure from its mountain springs, and fine invigorating atmospher;- 
which sweeps the hills, and after a few months" sojourn feel that they 
have renewed their lease of life. The extent of country thus visited 
occupies an area of more than 500 square miles, embracing eveiy variety 
of surface and surroundings, from the green meadow, the rolling upland, 



POIHir.AU liKSOItTS, A.\I> HOW TO liKAClI TIIKM. 57 

the high moiiiitiiiu-peak, to tlie dense primeval forest. Tiie villaiije of 
Bethlehem is built on a plateau or ridge of deep, rich soil, w hich con- 
nects the White and Franconia ranges of mountains, and commands 
striking views of both. Its altitude is greater than that of am/ other village 
east of the Rocky Mountains. 

Some years ago a Boston merchant, overtaxed by business cares, 
and suffering from loss of health, was recommended to try a season 
at Bethlehem. He returned in the autumn well, — completely invig- 
orated and restored ; but each season finds him with his family at 
their mountain home. Thankful for this marvellous and unexpected 
restoration, with his ample means he determined to pre]iare accommo- 




MAPLEWOOD HOTEL. 
Bethlehem, N.H 

dations where others could have the comforts of home without the ex- 
pense of fitting up an establishment of their own. 

A valuable farm of five hundred acres was purchased, and thoroughly 
stocked with improved breeds of horses, cows, and sheep, and large num- 
bers of poultry of the most approved kinds ; while the hoiise was enlarged 
and placed in perfect repair, bowling and billiard saloons erected, and 
other games and amusements improvised for the entertainment of guests. 
The farm was placed under the charge of a competent person, for whom 
a commodious farm-house, barns, dairies, stables, and extensive out-build- 
ings, were erected. From this farm guests are daily supplied, during the 
summer, with the venj best of every thing fresh from the fields. Green 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND IIOAV TO REACH TIIEM. 59 

com, pease, beans, and garden-sauce, growing at one hour, are bounti- 
fully served upon the table the next. Fresh cream, butter, and eggs, of 
home i^roduction, are furnished, not at fabulous hotel-prices, but at fair 
and reasonable rates. The verandas at the Maple-wood are shaded ; and 
the grounds are ornamented by a fine growth of sugar-maple, forming 
delightful play-grounds for children, and a cool and cleanly out-of-doors 
resort for adults. One of the finest and most picturesque views of Mount 
Washington, and others of the White-Mountain group, is from the ve- 
randa of this house ; while the vicinity abounds in delightful drives. 
The admirable drainage, secured at great expense, renders this a health- 
ful and desirable summer residence. It is supjilied with never-failing 
spring water, and is but one and one-fourth miles from the depot. 

From the station at Bethlehem the train continues along the bank of 
the Ammonoosuc to the Twin Mountain House and to the Pabyan 
House, at the base of Mount Washiiu/ton. The Twin Mountain 
House until the present season was the terminus of the railroad. It 
has been extensively patronized, and will be pleasantly remembered by 
its patrons, as a most free and social summer home. 

The buildings of this extensive summer resort wei'e erected and fur- 
nished new in 18G9-70, on a spot long occupied as a hotel, and popular 
with the public. The vicinity not only commands fine and varied views- 
of the White and Franconia IMountains, but has better facilities for 
water amusements than any hotel of the mountain region. The house 
stands high on a connnanding bluff, which overlooks the Ammonoosuc. 
So near its head, this stream is not usually suitable for boating ; but 
here it is held by a dam, thus affording an admirable opportunity for that 
healthful and fascinating amusement. The water is fringed with trees 
of most delicate foliage, among which guests have constructed rural 
seats and arbors. This is a romantic spot, where lovers and those 
socially inclined do love to congregate. The forests about the " Twin 
Mountain " are very charming, and the shrubs and ferns fresh and 
varied. But the chief and practical excellence of this locality is in the 
entire absence of hay-fever, that disagreeable disease indigenous to so 
large a jiortion of the country. The following extract from " The New 
York Ledger " is from the pen of the Rev. Henry Ward Beecher, who 
has long been afflicted with this distressing malady, and who now spends 
his summer and autumn months at this health-giving place : " Mean- 
while another year warrants me in saying that a resort hither is almost 
certain relief ; not one per cent of patients failing to obtain essential if 
not entire relief. We can go out into the sun, stand in mud morning 
and evening, and in spite of dust, rain, or chill, we are well. 

From the Twin Mountain House, the route continues to the Fabyan 
House, the terminus of the Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroad; froia 



POPUI.AK ItESOUTS. AND HOW Tf» liKACII THEM. 



61 



which point stasjes convey tourists six miles, to the Mount Washington 
Railway, by which they are taken to the siunniit the same evening. 

Carriages will also be found in waiting, to take passengers from every 
train to the Crawford House five miles distant, AVhite Mountain Notch, 
and other points of attraction in that neighborhood, described under 
the head of Pleasure lloute No. 5." 

The stage-ride from the (Crawford and Fabyan Houses to the Mount 
Washington Railway Station is one of the n\ost exciting features of 
mountain travel. 

The falls 
of the Am- 
inonoosuc 
are passed 
by the way 
side, and 
are well 
worth a 
visit. Here 
the rocks 
have been 
worn by 
the action 
of the wa- 
ter into a 
thousand 
fantastic 
forms.The 
road leads 
through a 
primeval 
forest : 

luxuriant viut'S laden with fruit and berries si)ring from the virgin soil, 
often tempting the visitor from the carriage. We occasionally catch a 
glimpse of the grand old mountain, as it i-aises its granite head above 
the clouds. The ascent of Moujit Wasliingtou was once a feat of rare 
occurrence, accomplished only \^y the daring hunter or adventurf)us trav- 
eller; but the industry and perseverance of man have smoothed the way; 
and the route has been made easy, safe, and ])leasant. 

To accompany an aeronaut, to look out ujxni the surrounding world, 
has been the desire of many, though enjoyed by few. Here the "iron 
horse," guided by the hand of genius, climbs triumi)hantly to the dizzy 
height of 6,285 feet, more than a mile in the air, where the "storm- 
king," riding on the wings of the whirlwind, have hitherto reigned su- 




AMMONOOSUC FALLS. 



62 



POPULAK RESORTS, AND HOW TO KKACU THEM. 



preme ; and yet all this is done in absolute safety, and witli as much 
ease as the same distance could be accomplished over any road in the 
country. 

The ascent should be made the subject of some preparation. To at- 
tempt it improperly clothed would risk the pleasure of the excursion. You 
may not meet a snow storm, or find icicles hanging from the roof in the 
morning; but you are liable to any month in the year. Ladies, particularly, 
should not relie upon a shawl alone for protection, but add a full suit of 
winter extra under-clothing. You will find the house on the summit 
heated by steam, and a cheerful fire in the grate ; but you should not, 
for want of proper clothing, lose the opportunity for out-of-door pleasures. 




Ihe views while as- 
cending and descending 
are supremely grand. To 
stand upon the summit of Mount 
Washington is the one desire of 
every visitor to the mountain- 
region. Here, from the highest 
point on the Atlantic slope, he 
can look down upon this vast 
panorama of hills and valleys, 
cities and plains, dotted with a thousand silvery lakes blended into one 
harmonious whole. Without putting foot upon the ground, he is lifted 
step by step up this rugged steep, to the very doors of the Hotel, which, 
bound with chains to the barren cliff, has been built and furnished to 
receive him. 

The Mount "Washington Summit House accommodates con- 
veniently one hundred and seventy-five guests, though more than two 
hundred have been entertained. Several thousand persons visited it divr- 
ing the past season. Its appointments are very complete. Lighted by 
gas, and heated by steam, with all modern improvements, a liberal 
table, and good attendance, the visitor can be made comfortable for any 
length of time. Stages run from the railroad depot to all the prominent 
houses, enabling tourists to return by any route they choose. 



POPULAK ItESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 63 

PLEASURE ROUTE No. 2. 

Boston and Vicinity to the Summer Resorts of Northern 
Vermont, Lake Memphremagog, Montreal, and Quebec. 

PASSUMPSIC AND SOUTH-EASTEIJN RAILROADS. 

Tourists go by Pleasure Route No. 1, by Lowell or Lawrence, ]Man- 
chester, Concord, Plymouth (twenty minutes tor dinner), to Wells River 
Junction. A short distance south from Wells River, at Newbury 
Station, the visitor will find Newbury Sulphur Springs. They 
are located near the village, and are a favorite resort of invalids and 
travellers, being well recommended by the medical faculty. 

The village, which is rurally pleasant, commands a fine view of the 
Connecticut River, and the rugged hills of New Hampshire beyond. 
Mount Pulaski is near at hand, and the whole surface is charmingly diver- 
sified. If from this point we continue up the river by the " Passumpsic " 
due north, along a route rich in landscape beauties, passing en route the 
thriving village of St. Johnsbury, after an hour's ride we reach the quiet 
station of Went Burke, from whence by stage a half dozen miles, we are 
taken to "Willoughby Lake, which, although inferior in size to many 
lakes in New England, has no superior in picturesque variety and 
beauty. It is favorably known to the travelling public as a summer 
resort, and is situated between two high mountains, Annanance (AVil- 
loughby) and Hor, which rise abruptly from its shores. The water is of 
remarkable depth : over six hundi-ed feet sounding has failed to find 
bottom. AVilloughby Lake is six miles long, and about two in width. 
A pleasure-drive has been constructed along the east side. There are 
many points of rare interest in the neighborhood, among which are 
Mount Annanance, Mount Hor, Silver Cascade, Point of Rocks, &c. 

Mount Annanance, or Willom/hhi/ as it is generally called, thirty- 
eight hundred feet high, derives its name from that of an Indian chief 
of the St. Francis tribe, who here made his home. This elevation is 
generally visited on foot, the path leading up through a beautiful forest 
with occasional glimpses of the lake, whose quiet waters lave the rocks 
below. It is not, however, until the summit is reached that the visitor 
realizes the richness of the scene about to be spread out before him. A 
fine panoramic view, embracing the Comiecticut Valley, the Franconia 
and White Mountains of New Hampshire, the nearer peaks of Mansfield, 
Camel's Hump, Killington, and Jay; Owl's Head in Canada, and the 
Adirondacks of New York, in the distance ; while near at hand the 
beautiful waters of Willoughby Lake, and the bold outline of Blount 
Hor which rises beyond, — serine to form one of the most effective 
scenes in New England. 



64 POI'ULAK KESOBTS, ANJ) HOW TO KEACH THEM. 



CANADA AND THE PKOVINCES. 

Lake Memphremagog is the connecting link between the summer 
resorts of New England and Canada, more than half its surface being 
in the latter country. It is the next point of interest after leaving West 
Burk Station. It is an unusually pleasing sheet of water, about thirty 
miles long, hemmed in by bold, ragged mountains, traversed by pleasure- 
boats, from whose decks, as they steam along its quiet surface, rich views 
of the surroiuiding scenery may be had. The lake varies from two to 
four miles in width, its bold shores and numerous islands contributing 
wonderfully to the interest of the scene. The village of Newport, Vt., 
located at the southern extremity, is already an inland watering-place 
of considerable repute, and its fine summer houses are rapidly increas- 
ing in fame and popidarity. 

Bolton Springs in Canada, fourteen miles distant ; Cljjde R'wer Falls. 
two miles ; Mount Morrill, two miles ; Bear Mountain, seven miles, and 
Prospect Hill, close at hand, — these are among the points of interest near 
Newport. From Prospect Hill a charming view is presented, not only 
of the lake and mountains near by ; but Mount Annanance, Jay Peak. 
Orford, Elephantis, and Owl's Head, are all visible, and, with the lake 
and its picturesque islands, combine to form an exceedingly interesting 
landscape. 

Owl's Head, Canada, a conical peak of singular formation, having 
an altitude of nearly three thousand feet, rises from the west shore of 
Lake Memphremagog. Steamers.^^». route from Newport to Magog make 
a landing at its base. The ascent is made from the Mountain House, 
a half-mile distant, bj' a footpath. The view from its summit is unusu- 
ally fine, and well repays the hard climb to secure it. Round Island, 
Minnow Island, and Skinner's Island, with its cave of legendary fame, 
are among the local attractions. 

Mount Elephantis guards the western shores of Lake Memphre- 
magog. It is not visited as much as Owl's Head; but its attractions 
are enhanced by a sparkling lake, two miles in length, far up its side. 
which is noted alike for the crj'stal purity of its waters, and tlie abund- 
ance of trout it contains. 

Mount Orford is one of the attractions of the village of JVIagog. It 
is reached by a pleasant di'ive, and a carriage-road extends to its sum- 
mit. It is the highest peak in the vicinity, and commands a fine pros- 
pect. The Anllage of Magog is also visited daily by stage, sixteen miles 
from Sherbrooke on the (Jrand Trunk Hailwav- 



POPULAIt KKSOKTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM. 65 

Pinnacle Mountain and Lake are about ten miles from Stanstead, 
but have not yet attained great popularity. The mountain is the most 
singular feature, rising with great precipitousness from the lake below. 

Lake Massa"wippi, on the line of the Passumpsic Railroad, affords 
rare sport for the fisherman. It is only about a mil6 and a half in 
width, yet extends for nine miles. It is overlooked by Blackberry Moun- 
tain, which rises from its eastern shore. 

Lachine Rapids are among the most thrillingly fascinating attrac- 
tions in the vicinity of Montreal ; a visit to which is usually made by the 
cars, and the return by steamer. 

" The Lachine Rapids are visited by taking the seven, a.m., train (at 
the Bonaventure Station) to Lachine, where a steamer is in waiting, by 
which the tourist returns through the rapids to Montreal, arriving about 
nine, a.m. After taking a pilot from the Indian village of Caughnawaga, 
the steamer passes out. Suddenly a scene of wild grandeur breaks upon 
the eye : waves are lashed into spray and into breakers of a thousand 
forms, by the submerged rocks which they are dashed against in the head- 
long impetuosity of the river. Whirlpools, a storm-lashed sea, the chasm 
below Niagara, all mingle their sublimity in a single rapid ; now pass- 
ing with lightning speed within a few yards of rocks, which, did your 
vessel but touch them, would reduce her to an utter wreck before the 
crash could sound upon the ear. Did she even diverge in the least from 
her course, if her head were not kept straight with the course of the 
rapid, she would be instantly submerged and rolled over and over. 
Before us is an absolute precipice of waters : on every side of it are 
breakers, like dense avalanches thrown high into the air. 

" Ere we can take a glance at the scene, the boat descends the wall of 
waves and foam like a bird, and in a second afterwards you are floating 
on the calm, unruffled bosom of ' below the rapids.' " 

The Falls of The Shawanegan are visited from the city of Three 
Rivers, usually in canoes. Notwithstanding the magnitude and grandeur 
of these attractions, the difficulty of reaching them has detracted mate- 
rially from their popularity. 

They are on the St. Maw-ice River, thirty miles above the city of 
Three Rivers. 

The towering rocks which set their bounds rise on either side, 
between which the stream makes a fearful plunge of one hundred and 
fifty feet. 



66 POPUI.AK ItESOKTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEISI. 

PLEASURE ROUTE No. 3. 

Boston, Lowell, Lawrence, Lynn, Salem, Newburyport,. 
Dover, and Portsmouth, to Portland and the East, Lake 
Winnepesaukee, North Conway, and the White Mountains. 

K ASTERN KAU.KOAI). 

The Eastern Railroad, aside from leading directly to the popular 
watering places in Massachusetts, New Hampshire, and Maine, and behig- 
the through line to Bangor, St. Jolm, and the Provinces, is also one of 
the principal routes of approach to Lak:) "Winnepesaukee and North Con- 
way; and, in its intersection with the "Portland and Ogdensburg," to the 
A^Hiite Mountains proi:)er, through the picturesque valley of the Saco, and 
the famous Wliite Mountain Notch. 

Of the four depots in the northern section of the city of Boston, the 
" Eastern " holds a central position, and is in the immediate proximity 
of each. It is also connected with those of the soutliern portion of the 
city by horse-railways, rendering it easy of access for strangers.' This 
road extends from Boston to Portland, and Boston to North Conway, 
with a branch to Wolfboro'. There are also several other branches; 
viz., Saugus, Swampscott, JMarblehead, Salem and Lawrence, South 
Reading, Gloucester, Essex and Amesbury, and Portsmouth and Dover. 
No route in New England possesses more varied charms for tlie tourist 
and pleasure-seeker. 

Twenty-eight seashore-resorts are reached by the Eastern Raili-oad 
and its branches; the more prominent of which are Chelsea or Revere, 
Nahant, Swampscott, Marblehead, Lowell Island, Gloucester, Rockport, 
Pigeon Cove, Plumb Island, Salisbury, Hampton or Boar's Head, Little 
Boar's Head, Rye, Isles of Shoals, Kittery, York, Wells, Cape Arundel, 
Old Orchard, Mount Desert, and all others in Maine. ]\Iost of these are 
directly on the main line of this road, and all in close proximity to it. 

Chelsea, Mass., was one of Starr King's favorite spots for sight- 
seeing. " Powder-horn Hill," with its remarkal)le pictures extending 
over a circle of miles, was a special object of frequent visits with the 
scholarly and enthiisiastic young preacher, the rising or the setting of the 
sun being his chosen times for studying its wonderful beauties. The name 
has been ai'bitrarily altered to " The Highlands," which is more preten- 
tious, certainly; but old names, after all, cling closest to historic associa- 
tions. The " Eastern Railroad " and horse-cars pass through the city. 

Chelsea Beach (Revere) is no part of Chelsea proper: it possesses many 
points of interest, and its proximity to Boston makes it a place of great 
resort in the hot months. A line of horse-cars connects it with Boston. 



POPULAB RESORTS, AND UOW TO REACH THEM. 67 

Nahant, Mass., is among the mature celebrities of the New-Eiier- 
laiid coast. It is one of those rare combinations of natural and remark- 
able beauties which assert their superiority without the need of art or 
special praise. Yet Nahant is a lesson. It teaches the fickleness of 
human fancy, and the uncertainty of popular favor. If this really 
charming spot were onl}' located a hundred or more miles from the lead- 
ing marts of New- England trade, it would scarce find a rival in fashion- 
able and public approval. It is too near Boston and other cities, too 
easy of access, and too comfortable generally, to attract the great multi- 
tude, who prove that "distance lends enchantment to the view " of a 
summer trip and life, by seeking remote and out-of-the-way places in 
preference. Yet Nahant is so delightfully located, so varied in its scenery 
and surroundings, so dotted with wonderful curiosities of nature, so 
graced with romantic and ever-varying specialties, and so readily reached, 
that the number of its summer residents and brief visitors will ever be 
very lai-ge. It was the chief resort of the wealthy and the gay only a 
few years since; but the worshippers of fashion now travel to other 
shrines. 

Lynn, Mass., is a busy and thriving city, famed as the leading shoe- 
manufacturing place on the continent. A lofty and conmianding emi- 
nence called High Rock, fi-om which a singularly picturesque view is 
obtained, is the chief point of attraction to the traveller. Swauipscott 
and Nahant, popular resorts, are contiguous. Trains on tlie Eastern 
Railroad, and horse-cars from Boston, pass through the city. 

S"Wampscott, adjoining Lynn, is a favorite with the wealthy classes 
of Boston and neighboring cities, and has numerous costly and elaborate 
sununer residences. Its comfortalile boarding-houses have attracted 
many strangers for a summer's sojourn. The chief industry of the place 
is fishing; and a very clever addition to the season's profits is made by 
letting rooms and dwellings during tlie summer months. 

Gloucester, Mass., is the great centre of the New England fishing 
interests. Thousands of her hardy population pursue their perilous 
avocation at all seasons of the year, and upon all the great fishing- 
grounds, especially upon the Banks of Newfoundland. No season passes 
without its sad tragedies among the vast fleet which leaves the harbor of 
Gloucester. The .som-ces of pleasure and of cultivated intercourse 
located around Gloucester are worthy of an elaborate detail, and are full 
of agreeable surprises and rare delights. Great numbers take the cars 
of the Eastern Railroad, or boats from Boston direct, in the travelling 
season. 



68 POPUIiAB RESOBTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM. 

Rockport, Mass., was once a part of Gloucester. This place will 
not attract a great deal of attention from sight-hunters, although its 
extensive granite-quarries will richly repay a visit. 

The famous and justly popular resort called Pigeon Cove is close 
by Rockport. This and other spots of novel and rare curiosities form a 
group of too much interest to be overlooked; and it has long been a fixed 
centre for a very large summer attendance. Few i^laces on the JSTew- 
England coast afford greater gratifications to visitors. 

Newburyport, Plumb Island, and Salisbury Beach possess 
a local fame, and receive considerable patronage from the towns adja- 
cent, but cannot be recommended to the general public. The bathing 
at Plumb Island is treacherous; Salisbury Beach is better, but the 
loose sands prevent driving. 

The town of Hampton, N.H., has little to distinguish it from 
towns of modest pretensions generally ; but its beach — Hampton Beach 
— is renowned in every quarter. Bocu-'s Head, a bold and commanding 
promontory, projecting a quarter of a mile from the mainland directly 
into the sea, is the hospitable castle which " lords it " over the adjacent 
beaches. Here the admirer of the murmuring sea can find full scope for 
his admiration. The views fi'om this lofty eminence are numberless and 
varied. The origin of the name is somewhat shrouded in mystery. Tra- 
dition says it was given by fishermen, from the 
similarity of its foam-laved rocks, when lashed by 
the fury of the waves, to the enraged boar. 

This summer resort lias been long and favorably 
known. The house stands on the crest of a rocky 
promontory, which rises gradually to the height of 
eighty feet, against whose jagged base for ages 
'^°^^'- past the waves in ceaseless roll have dashed their 

whitened spray. On either side, stretching for miles away, extend beau- 
tiful beaches, whose waters furnish rare facilities for bathing, and whose 
hardened sands present a. surface for driving not excelled along this coast. 

Little Boar's Head, JSTorth Hampton, IST.H., is a connecting link 
between Hamj)ton and Rye Beaches. It would be famous but for the 
superioiity of its great rival, Boar's Head. It is a projection also into 
the sea, but of a lesser altitude. These marked spots, adjacent to such 
grand beaches as Hampton and Rye, are assured of a constant popularity. 
This is a favorite summer resort for families of taste and refinement. At 
present there is no hotel, but many excellent boarding-houses. 




POPULAR KESOKTS, AND UOW TO liKACII THKM. 69 

Rye Beach, N.H., half a century ago had an occasional straggling 
admirer, or i»»ssil)ly a company from the back country, in the summer 
season, to appreciate its beauties, and enjoy its lonely solitude. But it 
has since acquired a distinctive fame. At present its popularity is 
widely established, and thousands make it their resort for recreation and 
rest. It is animated and exhilai-ating in " the season," and is able to 
maintain its partial preference against aU rivals of the coast. It is 
abundantly supplied with every source of enjoyment, — city, country, sea, 
and fashionable elegances and refinements, and all modes and moods of 
life, to suit all tastes. 

Portsmouth, N.H., has prove;! an admirable place from whicli to 
emigrate. It has one of the best harbors, rears the smartest of men and 
most charming of women, but the city persists in not growing in popu- 
lation. It is a grand centre or starting-point, however, from which to 
visit a vast number of famed and delightful spots; and it wears a 
thronged and busy air during the hot months. It has, in the Rockingham 
House, a first-class hotel, which in all its appointments exhibits an air of 
elegance and comfort, and is convenient as a '• roost " for travelling birds. 

Frost's Point, near Portsmouth, N.H., is a very pleasant place, and 
has a local popularity. 

The Isles of Shoals, ofE Portsmouth Harbor, have risen to wonderful 
fam(! within twenty yeai'S. Fifty years ago it was one of the places to 
visit, and have a chowder, and was noted for its wild and rugged 
features, even in those prosaic days. It is now a fixture in popular 
favor, and is visited by multitudes, who make a marked stay there in 
summer time. Its chief interest lies in its remoteness from the land, 
and its home in the sea. The entire scene is wild, grim, and barren, 
excepting the homehke comforts which enterprise and money have sup- 
plied. 

We have written of "The Isles of Shoals " as "it," although there 
are half a dozen islands in the group; but we have always associated the 
places with the idea of but one. And old people still call them " Isle of 
Shoals; " and this is not far from correct. The eccentric Leighton, who 
really laid the foundation for the present great fame of this resort of 
pleasure, faithfully believed, that no person coming there, however sick, 
could die of disease if the invalid remained. Mr. Leighton, although 
living to a good old age, now rests with his fathers. 

New Castle is one of the marine suburbs of Portsmouth, three miles 
distant. It has a new summer hotel, pleasantly located. 



70 POPULAIl BESOKTS, AND HOW TO KI'^ACH THEM. 

Kittery Point. — This quaint old Maine town, recently rejuvenated 
for a .summer resort, possesses, in its historic associations, its admirable 
location, and its cool, exhilarating atmosphere, many attractions for the 
visitor who desires quiet and repose. Its principal hotel — the " Pep- 
perell House" — occupies an elevated and commanding site, and the 
harbor offers unusual facilities for boating and fishing. 

The o-overnment navy yard is near at hand, Portsmouth is across the 
harbor,- and the Isles of Shoals in full view but a few miles away. Take 
cars on the Eastern Railroad to Portsmouth or Kittery Station. 

York Beach, Me., and, beyond that. Bald Head Cliflf (a wild, 
stern, defiant-list rock, in almost constant battle with the waves of the 
sea), are places of interest, and when better known will command their 
share of patronage. The run to these points can be made by stage a 
half dozen miles from Portsmouth. 

Wells and Old Orchard Beaches can also be reached by this 
road ; the formei- by stage, six miles from Wells Station, and the latter, 
five miles by stage from Saco. There is little of interest between Saco 
and the city of Portland. For a description of the city of Portland and 
vicinity, see separate article. 

TO THE INTER! OK. 

Leaving such of our friends as we have directed to the numerous 
watering-i:)laces on the coast to th^ir own amusement, we return to the 
"• Conway Branch," to accompany those who desire to see that charming 
inland resort, Lake Winnepesaukee, to visit North Conway and the in- 
termediate points, or go with us to the White Mountains proper. 

The " Conway Branch " diverges from the main line a few miles east 
of the city of Portsmouth, and continues northward past Berwick, Great 
Falls, to Conway and Noi'th Conway; another road branches from this to 
Lake Winnepesaukee, where connection is made by boats to all points 
on the lake, and with the Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroad beyond. 
At West Ossipee the stage from Centre Harbor, with tourists that have 
crossed Lake Winnepesaukee, from the Boston, Concord, and Montreal, 
and Boston and Maine Roads, intersects with this railroad Avith which its 
passengers continue. 

Centre Harbor, "Wolfboro", and Alton Bay are the three prom- 
inent places on Lake Winnepesaukee. The former is mentioned in 
Pleasure Route No. 1. Wolfboro' is pleasantly located on the east shore 
of the lake, at the terminus of the Wolfboro' Branch Railroad, and has 
several hotels. Alton Bay is at the lower end of the lake, reached by the 
Boston and Maine Railroad and the steamer " Mount AVashington." 



POPUr.Ali liKSOUTS, AM) HOW TO liKACII TIIK.M. 71 

Mount Chocorua, N.H., 3,:io8 feet hi.nh, is luo.st easily reached 
from West (Jssipee Statiou. Tiie trip to Chocorua, eight miles distant, 
is tedious, but amply repays those physically aide to make it. This moun- 
tain is more Alpine in its character and outline than any in New Hamp- 
shire. The beautiful Chocorua Lake is jjassed en route, from whose 
borders one of the finest views of tiie mountain may be had. The 
surface, from far below its summit, is comi)letely bare of vegetation. 
High overhanging rocks seem ready to topple fiojn its craggy peak. 

The view from Mount Chocorua is a singular combination of the l)eau- 
tiful and gi-and. Ilundrc^ds of lakelets dot the landscape, increasing in 
size to the charming VN'innepesaukee, from whose placid bosom si)ring 
myriads of leafy islets: while nortliward the mountains rise tier above 
tier to Washington and the "Presidential (iroup.'* The Ossipee and 
Sand"wich Mountains are also visited from this place, which is sur- 
rounded by pictures(|ue scenery, and must eventually become a pojmlar 
resort. Indeed, this entire region, extending from Centre Harbor to 
Wolfboro", embracing the towns on the eastern shore of Lake Winnepe- 
saukee, is filled with interesting localities, and is beginning to be annnal- 
ly frequented by persons looking foi- the quiet, substantial requirements 
of summer life. 

Ossipee Lake is usually visited from Bank's Hotel at this station. 
The road to it passes many attractive points: among which may be named 
an Indian mound, from which various articles of interest have been ex- 
humed, including arrow-heads, implements of various kinds, and human 
bones. The lf>cality also has its historic associations. The remains of 
Lovewell's Fort (l)uilt by Capt. Lovewell's band in 17lV>) are .still 
pointed out. The lake once reached, a IVeliug of sequestered quietude 
reigns. It is less than half a dozen miles long, and the close proximity 
of Chocorua and the Ossipee ^Mountains increase the interest, and add to 
the beauty of the scene. Ossipee Falls, in Moultonboro', within a few 
years have received many visitors, and as an auxiliary attraction to other 
resorts, are very fine. 

Passaconaway Mountain, N.H., 4.200 feet high, is one of tho.se 
bold, unfrequented peaks lying west from Conway, and north-east of 
Whitcfnce of the Sandwich ;Mountains. At present it is but little known 
to tourists, and will only be visited by the adventurous spirit desirous of 
studying Nature in her primeval state. This mountain l)ears the name 
of a famous Indian sachem of the Pennacooks. a warlike tribe whose ter- 
ritory embraced this region at the time of its discovery by the English, 
(io by the West Ossipee and Centre Harbor stage to Sandwich, from West 
Ossipee to Centre Harbor. 



72 POPUIiAB EESOliTS, AND HOW TO BEACH THKM. 

Whiteface Mountain, N.H., 4,100 feet high, is the most noted of 
the group known as tlie Sandwich Mountains. The number of visitors 
has increased within a few years. The fine prospect from its summit is 
said to amply repay the arduous climb to secure it. The view of Lake 
Winnepesaukee is particularly fine. Stages between Centre Harbor and 
West Ossipee which connect with the lake boats pass through Sandwich, 
intersecting the railroad at West Ossipee, for North Conway and the 
White Moimtains. This whole country in this neighborhood is exceed- 
ingly fine. 

North Conway is a pleasant little village located upon the banks 
of the Saco River, and is the central feature of the charming Saco 
valley. 

Thfere are several fine hotels, ranging from the first class to the com- 
fortable country inn : indeed, nearly every house is a boaixling-house. 
The inhabitants are largely migratory, going and coming with the birds, 
and through the hot months of summer resting in the shades of 
Conway's famous elms, sauntering along her sparkling streams, or 
climbing her rugged mountains. North Conway has one noted moun- 
tain, — 

Pequawket, or Klarsarge, as frequently called, though by this name 
it is confounded with JNIount Kearsan/e, in the western part of the State. 
Mount Pequawket is three miles from the village, has a good bridle- 
path ; and a public house on the summit furnishes refreshments or lodg- 
ings for those who desire. 

Diana's Baths, Hart's Ledges, Echo Lake, and Artist's Falls are among 
the attractions of tlie place. 

At North Conway the Eastern Railroad intersects the Portland and 
Ogdensbui'g Railroad, by which tourists continue to the Crawford House, 
White Mountain Notch, or by stage to the Glen House on the eastern 
side of the mountains. 

The stage line to the Glen House is still in operation, and many i:)refer 
this route of approach. Goodrich Falls are passed en route : and it also 
leads through >'Pinkham Notch," one of the natm-al thoroughfares to 
the mountains. 

Glen Ellis Palls are among the most attractive in New Hampshii-e. 
The}' axe in the woods at the right of the road, six miles before reaching 
the Glen House. Crystal Cascade, of equal height, is at the left, a mile 
farther on. T/iomjison's Falls are still nearer the house. 

(For ooiitinued description to the moiuitaius, soe Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad.) 



POPULAR BESOHTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 73 

PLEASURE ROUTE No. 4. 

Boston, Lowell, Lawrence, Haverhill, and Dover, to Lake 
Winnepesaukee, Wells, Cape Arundel, and Old Orchard 
Beaches, Portland, Mount Desert, North Conway, and the 
White Mountains. 

J{OS'J(JN AND MAINE RAILROAD. 

While the Eastern Railroad has run along the coast, distributing tour- 
ists at the various seaside resorts east of Portsmouth, the Boston and 
Maine, whose depot in Boston is in Haymarket Sf^uare, at the head of 
Washington Street, has kept inland, passing through several cities and 
villages to Dover, whence a " Branch " leads up the Cocheco ^'alley to 
Lake Winnepesaukee, which is crossed thirty miles by steamer to Wolf- 
boro' and Centre Harbor, and thence by stage and rail to North Conway, 
continuijig to the White Momitains over the line of the Portland and 
Ogdensburg Railroad, to which description the reader is referred for a 
continuation of the route. 

Returning to Dover, the road soon leads gradually towards the coast, 
which it touclies at Wells Beach, an old and well-known summer 
w'atering-place. Coaches at the depot take visitors to the hotels, two 
miles distant. 

Kenneburdc is the next regular station. Three miles away by stage is 
Cape Arundel, a new resort just s])ringing into existence. The 
beaches here are short, althougli vei-y good for bathing. Cape Arundel 
will be eschewed by the fashionable tourist whose pleasure comes from 
" drives " and " hops," and whirls of excitement; but the lover of rock.s 
and foaming spray, the student of nature in her w'ildest moods, should 
not pass it by. 

Old Orchard Beach is the next point of int<>rest to the tourist. 

At no place along the New England coast has natin-e done so much, or 
planned such a magnificent beach, as here. For nine miles the surface is 
level and hard, and it has few equals in the country. As much can- 
n(jt be said of the hotels. Good fair accommodations are furnished, 
nothing more, nor are the prices high. But with such hotels as those at 
Newport, Long Branch, or Cape ^lay. Old Orchard might become the 
(pieen watering-place in the land. 

From Old Orchard to Portland there is little to interest the tourist. 
From here he may go by steamer to ISIount Desert, continue by the Maine 
Central Railroad to Rangeley or Moosehead Lakes, to St. John and the 
Provinces ; or he may go to the White Mountains by the Portland and 
Ogdensburg, or Grand Trunk Railways. See description of Portland. 



I'OI'ULAlt KESOKTS, A.\I> UOW TO IJEACU THKM. 75 

PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 

Portland, the cliief city of the State of Maine in point of population 
and commerce, is situated at tlie southerly extremity of Casco Bay, and 
contains about thirtjj'^-five thousand inhabitants. It is of considerable 
importance as a railroad centre, being the terminus of six different roads 
converging at that point, and of immerous lines of steamers constantly 
plying between Portland and Xew York, Boston, Eastern Maine, and the 
British Provinces, and is the winter port of three lines of European 
steamers. Its facilities for communication are excellent; there being 
despatched daily eight trains and one steamer to Boston, connecting 
there with points farther south and west, besides several trains daily for 
IMontreal and Quebec, Bangor, St. John, N.B., and Halifax, N.S., weekly; 
also tri-weekly steamers for Bangor, Mount Desert, St. John, Halifax, 
&c., and steamers four times a week for New York direct. 




FALMOUTH HOUSE. 

As n pleasure resort, Portland is becoming well known throughout the 
country; and the number of visitors to the city and its vicinity is increas- 
ing with each summer's return. Not only in lines of communication, but 
in hotels and other accommodations, is she particularly fortunate. The 
" Falmouth," " United States," and " Preble " are the leading houses ; 
each of these possesses its peculiar merits. 

The " Falmouth " is a first-class house in all its appointments : it is 
the largest, and is the only hotel in the State that has an elevator, a lux- 
ury that the weary traveller can appreciate. 

The tourist who concludes to "do " Portland will find rich materials 
for his sketch-book and his notations. The vicinity is not only rich in 
landscape scenery, but the climate is delightfully cool, the heat of sum- 



POPULAR RESOKTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

mer being tempered by the pleasant sea-breezes from the ocean, three 
miles distant, which combine to enhance its charms. 

The United States Hotel is centrally located, and has been recently 
rejuvenated and put in condition to accommodate guests. It stands on 
Market Square, at the junction of Middle and Congress Streets, the 
principal thoroughfares of the city. 

Portland is built ujDon a small peninsula jutting into Casco Bay; and 
a ridge of land through its centre, sloping on both sides to the water, 
affords excellent drainage. At the east and west extremities are high 
elevations, known respectively as Munjoy and Bramhall, with fine drive- 
ways and promenades, which command grand and extensive views of the 
surrounding country. The observatory on Munjoy, which no one should 
fail to visit, is provided with a powerful telescope, sweeping the horizon 

in every direction, by 
aid of which nearly 
every summit of the 
White Mountain 
Range, eighty miles 
distant, can be easily 
distinguished. The 
view from this point 
seaward is magnifi- 
cent, embracing as 
it does the niimerous 
islands of Casco Bay, 
the surrounding 
coasts, and an uninterrupted view of old Ocean, extending more than 
thirty miles from land, dotted with sails, and flecked with foam. The 
shady streets and attractive suburbs invite to charming walks and 
drives through their quiet avenues. It is visited yearly by families 
and parties who spend their entire summer vacations hereabout, inter- 
spersed with short-trip excursions in the harbor, to Mount Desert, Frye- 
burg, Sebago Lake, Winnepesaukee, North Conway, or the White 
Mountains, all of which are within a few hours of Portland, and of 
easy access. 




UNITED STATES HOTEL. 



Casco Bay, with its fifteen-score of islands, their rocky promon- 
tories and pleasant coves, their green fields and forests rivalling in 
romantic beauty the archipelagoes of Greece, is much visited during 
the pleasure season. The islands nearer the city contain a consider- 
able population ; and their many good hotels and boarding-houses are 
well supported in the summer. Four steamers of good capacity and 
accommodations run daily betw-een them and the city, making several 



POPULAJt KESOHTS, AND HOW TO KP:ACH THKM. 



77 



trips each way, and are largely patronized. The round trip is made 
in from one to two hours, and forms a delightful afternoon's recreation. 

Casco Bay, the musical waters whereof sing sweet songs, even up 
to the margin of the discordant city, — Casco Bay seems expressly 
formed for the lovers of the romantic, the beautiful, and the wonderful. 
Here Nature has nestled the charms of the sea and of the land in almost 
every variety, — in miniature continents, rivers, hills, valleys, bluffs, 
beaches, wild rocks, soft verdure, fragrant flowers, and birds of richest 




WHITE HEAD CLIFF, PORTLAND HARBOR. 

1)1 11 mage and sweetest song. Indeed, the dullest nature is moved with 
unwonted stirrings, approaching the poetic; and the man of sensibility 
feels a pleasure rarely found, all the more keen that the noisy and dis- 
orderly crowd have not yet invaded this undefiled j^aradise of the sea and 
shore. 

More extended trips are also daily made which are assuming a 
national popularity. Mount Desert, Old Orchard, Cape Aniudel and 
AVells B;^aches, Fryeburg, North Conway, and the White Mountains are 
all within a few hour's ride. 



78 POPULAR JBESOKTS, AND HOW TO KKACH THEM. 

POPvTLAND, BANGOR, AND MACHIAS STPZAMBOAT COMPANY. 

The steamer "Lewiston," after receiving passengers from the East- 
ern, Boston and Maine, Portland and Rochester, Portland and Ogdens- 
biirg, and Grand Trmik Railroads, and Boston Boats, leaves Portland 
from Railroad Wharf every Tuesday and Friday evening, at ten, p.m., 
touching at Rockland at five o'clock the next morning, Castine at seven, 
and arriving at Mount Desert at noon. One has biit to glance at the map 
of Maine to become impressed with its wonderfully serrated coast, its 
numerous bays and headlands, sand and gravelly beaches, rocks, coves, 
and outstanding islands, embracing some of the most delightfully rural 
resorts i]i the country. Many of these are passed en route, and the 
morning view from the steamer's deck is enchanting. 

Mount Desert is the rising star of Maine's attractions for the 
summer-home seekers. Apart from any little side-shows which may 
have been put u]i in the papers from time to time by shrewd and calcu- 
lating capitalists, Mount Desert has gifts that are all its own, and sucli 
as will continue to swell its fame as years progTess, and its charms become 
revealed. Its area is reckoned at aliout a liundred square miles : and it 
is, therefoi-e, quite a little world in itself. The island might aptly be 
likened to a lot of marl>lps dropped from a pocket of a giant, provided a 
giant's marbles were small mountains. At least, the more notable and 
striking j^ortions of tlie island are made up of a group of mountains 
huddled together, of a singularly wild grandeur. Upon one portion there 
is a sheer and almost vertical descent of rock, nearly a thousand feet 
fi'om the brink to the deep water beloM- ; and the progress of the explorer 
is constantly met liy changes ami surprises of panoramic and kaleid- 
oscopic beaiity. Much fine soil is found, which is considerably culti- 
vated ; but the inhabitants are cliiefly absorl.)ed in fish-catching. Portions 
of Mount Desert are still primeval in their solitudes ; and Nature yet 
prevails in lier simplicity and peculiar sovereignty. Hence wild game 
may still be hunted ; and sylvan streams are enriched by great numbers 
of the gamey trout. The indications within a few years are unmistakable 
that Mount Desert will take a rank among the families of the wealthy 
and fashionable second to none on the coast, or even on the continent. 
As soon as the needed capital decides to invest, and the newspapers open 
their trumpet throats to proclaim INIount Desert and " all about it," the 
armies of summer pilgrims will connnence the mighty march to gTand 
and glorious ]Mount Desert. Go by steamers of the Portland, Bangor, 
and Machias Steamboat Company, or by boat from Rockland, connecting 
with the Knox and Lincoln Raihoad. Good accommodations at South 
Wext, Harbor may be had at the Ocean House, and A'isitors to Bor Harbor 
will be well entertained at the Rodick House and others. 



POPUI-AIi KKSOKTS, AN1> HOW TO liKAClI THKM. 



79 



UP THE PKNOBSCOT. 

The scenery alons;- the Penobscot is imusually fine. Sumuier liotels 
are springing up; and when this interesting region is fully understood, 
through descriptions and illustrations, it must become popular with tour- 
ists. In full view are the Megunticook Peaks (altitude 1, 855-1, 4."i7 
feet). They are near the pleasant river village, Camden, and form one 
of its attractions. Although of less elevation than many mountain 
resorts, they command views of rare landscape interest, combining moun- 
tains in the north ; the serpentine windings of the Penobscot, bounded 
by cultivated farms and thriving villages; and, south-east and east, 
Penobscot Bay with its thousand "sea-girt isles." Camden is passed 
by two lines of steamers, Portland and Bangor, and Sanford's Indejiend- 
ent Line from Boston, both of which touch lierp. 




PORTLAND LIGHT. 

Near the head of Penobscot Bay, and within twenty-five miles of 
Bangor the boats pass Fort Point, a place of much scenic interest, 
and famed for its many historic recollections. The ruins of Fort Pownal, 
built by the English in 1759, still remain. Near by on the " Point," a 
summer hotel, the Massauml-ear/, has been recently erected, which forms 
a commanding feature in the landscape, and which, from its cool loca- 
tion, fine scenery, and good fishing and boating m the vicinity, is receiv- 
ing its full share of patronage. 



so POPUIiAK KESOKTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM. 

PLEASURE ROUTE No. 5. 

Portland to Sebago Lake, North Conway, and the White 

Mountains. 

PORTLAND AND OGDEXSBURG RAILROAD. 

No more attractive route to and from the "White Mountains is afforded 
to tourists than this from Portland, Me., up the beautiful valleys of the 
Presumpscot and Saco Rivers, by the lovely ISebago Lake, and through 
the famous intervales of Fryeburg and Conway, and the wonderful 
Crawford or White Mountain Notch to Cra\\'ford or Fabyan Houses. 
In former days it was considered the most interesting of the many stage- 
routes to the mountains ; the gradual and distinctly marked transition 
from the lowlands of the coast, to the higher and grander elevations of 
the mountain region, invests it with untiring interest for the traveller 
from the beginning to the end of the journey. The recently constructed 
Portland and Ogdensburg Raih-oad follows almost without deviation the 
old and popular stage-route, and without losing the attractions of the old 
highway, has opened new scenes of beauty; and, for the short time that it 
has been open to travel, has already acquired an enviable reputation as a 
pleasure route, and will, as it becomes better known, have an honored 
place in the itinerary of every visitor to the mountains, as the mountain 
tour is not complete if the Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad is over- 
looked, especially that portion of it which passes through the " Notch." 

The many lines of railroad and steamboat conveyance, centring at 
Portland from Boston and the South and West, make this city a most 
available point from which to commence a mountain trip. Portland, of 
itseK, possesses many attractions, and is becoming celebrated as a sum- 
mer resort. Its fine hotels, beautiful walks and drives in and around 
the city, the magnificent views of ocean and inland scenery to be ob- 
tained at various points within the city limits, and its proximity to 
many popular resorts of the seashore and country, make it a desirable 
stopping place for the pleasm-e-seeker. But those wishing to avail them- 
selves of a ride over the Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad are by no 
means obliged to stop over at Portland, luiless arriving in the city late at 
night; in which case a good night's rest will prepare them to enjoy all 
the more heartily the trip from Portland to the mountains. The Port- 
land and Ogdensburg trains connect closely with the Eastern and 
Boston and ]\Iaine Railroads from Boston, and the ue^^' through line 
from New York direct, via Worcester and Nashua, and the Portland 
and Rochester Railroad, and also with the fine steamers of the 
Portland Steam-Packet Company, which leave Boston every evening 
dmiug the siunmer season ; and arrive in Portland in season to take cars 



POPTTLAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



81 



for North Conway and the mountains, which will be reached the same 
evening; passengers meanwhile enjoying the near approach to the moun- 
tains by sunset, the most beautiful hour of the day. The time from 
Portland to Crawford or Fabyan's is but little over three hours; and 
parties going by way of Portland from Boston will arrive as early as by 
any other route. It will thus be seen, that, while rivalling all others in 
attractiveness, this route is as expeditious as any to the mountains. 




SEBAGO LAKE. 
Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad. 

A brief description of some of the more prominent points of interest 
will serve to show in a slight degree the pleasure to be enjoyed in a 
trip through its charming scenery; and the personal experience of all 
who travel this way will relieve us from any charge of exaggeration 
or partiality. Sebago Lake is the bright spot in our picture ; but we 
will not anticipate. 

On leaving the station in Portland, the road passes around the western 
boundary of the city, along the shore of Fore River, that forms the 



82 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

upper part of the harbor for which Portland is celebrated; and under the 
brow of Bramhall, a promenade much resorted to by citizens and visitors 
for its superb and extensive views of the country and the White ]\Ioun- 
tain range, ninety miles distant. It then crosses the old canal basin, and 
continues through an open country to Westbrook, five miles from the city. 
At this point we strike and cross the l^rexumpscot River, along the banks 
of which beautiful stream the road lies for some seven miles, through 
the farming town of Windham; affording many picturesque views of the 
river with its numerous water-powers, mostly unimproved, but awaiting 
the advent of enterprise, when their energy shall be harnessed to the 
wheels of industry, making this one of the busiest as it now is one of 
the most powerful of the rivers of New England. Again crossing the 
Presumpscot, and passing through a portion of the town of Gorham, we 
come to iiu uncultivated tract with deep cuttings, whose bare walls of 
sand and gravel only serve as a reminder of the labor which was 
expended in preparing for our convenience and pleasure; here also, in a 
natural depression of the land, nestle the lovely Otter Ponds in calm 
and retiring beauty; another moment, and, without any previous intima- 
tion of their nearness, the broad waters of Sehafjn Lale roll at our feet 
as we dash out from behind a projecting bank upon the shores of the 
lake, taking in at a glance its wide expanse and distant shores with 
their outlying hills. 

Lake Sebago is fourteen miles long, and eleven miles wide in the 
widest part; and its deep waters, noted for their purity, supply the city of 
Portland, seventeen miles distant. Through its natural outlet, the Pre- 
sumpscot River, it also furnishes a series of most valuable water-powers 
which never fail even in the dryest seasons, nor are subject to disas- 
trous freshets. The lake with its appendages forms a navigable water 
extending from the Lake Station on the line of the railroad, and at the 
southern extremity of Sebago, thirty-four miles, to Harrison at the north- 
erly end of Long Pond. This latter sheet of water is connected with 
the lake by Sonr/o lUoer, whose narrow and tortuous channel twists and 
turns through a course of six miles to overcome a straight distance of 
only a mile and a half ; a lock near the outlet of Long Pond raises the 
steamers and other craft plying upon these waters from the level of the 
lower to tiie upper lake. Two steamers, in summer season, perform 
the round trip between Sehago Lake Station and Harrison^ starting 
from either terminus daily, and connecting each trip with the Portland 
and Ogdensburg trains; and the excursion thus offered is replete with 
charming attractions, and is rapidly increasing in popularity. The trip 
to Harrison and return, including landings at Kaples, Bridgton, and 
North Bridgton, is made in about eight hours; tourists may theu go to 
J*ortland, North Conway, or the Mountains the same evening. 



POPITLAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 83 

Sebago Lake, with its far-reaching landscapes and distant moun- 
tain views, the passage through the serpentine windings of the silent 
and beautiful Songo, and the fair shores of Long Pond dotted with 
pretty hamlets and thriving villages, offer an excursion of varied and 
exciting interest, never to be forgotten by the favored ones who partici- 
pate in its enjoyment. 

After leaving the Lake Station, the railroad skirts the shores for some 
three miles, then in almost unbroken tangent strikes across the country 
to Steep Falls, twenty-five miles from Portland. At this point we 
reach the Saco River, through whose lovely valley the road is laid 
until we reach its source at the summit of the mountain pass. 

Here, too, the tourist will observe that the land assumes a more hilly 
character: the surface which until now had the general undulating fea- 
tures common to New England begins to rise in abrupt elevations in- 
creasing in height as his journey extends, constantly changing to new 
forms of beauty and grandeur, and gradual^ closing in around him on 
either side as if to oppose his farther progi-ess. 

From Steep Falls onward an endless succession of enchanting views 
gives an untiring interest to the journey. Ever-varying pictures of 
many-sided nature, harmonious and complete in all the elements 
of beauty, unfold themselves to the delighted gaze of the traveller. 
Mountains rising grandly from the plain in gentle slope or more pre- 
cipitous inclines give grace and dignity to the landscape; and the pano- 
rama, gi'adually changing from the broad acres of the lowlands to the 
narrow valleys of Conway and Bartlett shut in with mountain walls, 
finally culminates in the grand and inspiring passage through the won- 
derful Craw^ford Notch of the White Mountains. 

Passing through the town of Baldwin, after leaving Steep Falls we 
cross the Saco, and enter the town of Hiram; but just before reaching 
Hiram Bridge two pictures of the river are obtained in such quick suc- 
cession, and at the same time in such wide contrast with each other, as to 
vividly impress them upon the memory. After leaving the West Bald- 
w^in station, and crossing the short high trestle known as Breakneck, 
you will see on the left through an opening in the woods the Great Falls 
of the Saco, white with foam, plunging over a solid ledge a total descent 
of seventy -two feet. As if guarding the seclusion of the scene, there rise 
on either side high hills thickly wooded from base to summit, whose 
deep-tinged foliage and overhanging shade give a sombre character to 
the view. It is a picture of wild and solitary beauty, and is viewed 
to best advantage from the railroad. "WTien we next see the river, 
it is in softer mood. The waters lie seemingly motionless beneath the 
shade of gracefully impending branches, its surface flecked with dancing 
sunbeams which have pierced the leafy canopy ; and as we obtain a 



84 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

glimpse of the stream in perspective, retiring far within the deep and 
pleasant shade, it seems the very home of the water -sprites as memory 
recalls the fairy tales of childhood. But the picture is fleeting ; and with 
regret that we cannot linger, and enjoy its surpassing loveliness, we hurry 
on to other scenes; past Hiram and its hilly surroundings, and through 
the wide meadows of Brownfield, overlooking which stands Mount 
Pleasant, a mountain situated in the town of Denmark. "We soon reach 
the beautiful village of Pryeburg, whose broad, shady avenues, en- 
chanting scenery, and delightful climate, make it a gTowing rival to the 
more celebrated North Conway. 

Good hotels and boarding-houses are found here; and the peculiar 
charms ©f Fryeburg, with its proximity and ease of access to various 
resorts among the mountains, make it a most desirable spot in which to 
spend the summer vacation. Before proceeding farther, a short notice 
of Mount Pleasant will not be amiss. This mountain standing alone, 
and rising in graceful outline to an elevation of nearly three thousand 
feet, is reached by a short drive of two or three hours from Fryeburg 
or Bridgton. A carriage-road has been laid out to the summit, and 
a commodious hotel erected upon the highest point of the mountain, 
where visitors are entertained in excellent style. The hotel has been 
opened only within two years past, but has been largely patronized; 
and Mount Pleasant has already attained a high place in the esti- 
mation of pleasure-seekers. Its situation, nearly midway between the 
loftier peaks of the White Mountains and the seacoast, renders the out- 
look from its summit one of great variety and interest. On the east 
side is seen the ocean with its white sails and crested waves, and the 
roofs and spires of Portland are also iu view. On the west rise the 
stately domes of the White Hills from the symmetrical Pequawket, or 
Kiarsarge as it is sometimes called, to the towering peak of Mount 
Washington. In all directions the vaUey lies spread out in wide extent, 
adorned with lovely lakes and winding streams, and rich in all the 
charms of nature. 

Leaving the village of Fryeburg upon our right, we shortly cross the 
western boundary of jMaine, and enter the town of Conway in New 
Hampshire. A fine view of the easterly slope of the Rattlesnake Range 
is obtained on rounding the curve just out of Fryeburg; and the broad 
interval, with its graceful elms, standing singly or in groups of pleasant 
shade, forms a beautiful foreground to the picture. On the left, as we 
near the station of Centre Conway, is seen the distant Ckocorua, its bold, 
precipitous ledges sharply outlined against the sky. After leaving Cen- 
tre Conway we recross the Saco, and, rounding the southerly spur of Rat- 
tlesnake Range, are quickly arrived at renowned and beautiful North 
Conway. 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



85 



NORTH CONWAY, N.H. 

When the days begin to lengthen, and the sun runs high in the heavens ; 
when the short nights fail to cool the 
heated streets of a dusty city, and man feels 
that he must have respite from the care 
and excitements of business ; when the 
mother rises in the morning xmrefreshed, 




CONWAY ELMS. 



86 POPULAB RESORTS, AND HOW TO BEACH THEM. 

and the children grow languid for a change ; when, finally, the family 
council decide that a few weeks' vacation must be spent in the country, — 
no place can be found where the cool mountain air blows fresher, 
where the crystal streams flow purer, or where Nature wears a lovelier 
garb, than at North Conway. Since the early settlement of the country, 
the praises of Conway's rich meadows have been sung. To-day her 
broad-sweeping elms and luxuriant gardens indicate the strength of their 
rich alluvial soil. 




MT. KIARSARGE FROM NORTH CONWAY. 

North Conway has an additional advantage, wholly and peculiarly her 
own. She has a mountain, — Mount Kiarsarge, — which forms an admi- 
rable objective point for her visitors. It is only two miles distant, and 
three more to its summit ; yet the prospect from it combines some of 
the finest panoramic scenery in New England. A small hotel on its 
crest affords refreshments and shelter for those who desire. 

The climat'? of North Conway is free from mists and fogs ; and with its 
pure air, and dry and invigorating atmosphere, it is one of the most desir- 
able points in the whole White Mountains for those who may be seeking 
health or pleasure. " And then the sunsets of North Conway ! Cole- 
ridge asked Mont Blanc if he had ' a charm to stay the morning star in 
his steejj course.' It is time for some poet to put the question to those 
bewitching elm-sprinkled acres that border the Saco, by what sorcery 
they evoke, evening after evening, upon the heavens that watch them, 
such lavish and Italian bloom. Nay, it is not Italian : for the basis of 



POPULAR RESORTS, AXD IIOW TO REACH THEM. 



87 



its beauty is pure blue ; and the skies of Italy are not nearly so clear as 
those of New England. One sees more clear sky in eight summer weeks 
in Conway, probably, than in the compass of an Italian year." 

North Conway is not only noted fcr the beauty of its scenery in the 
spring and summer months, but later in the season the bright tints of its 
autumn foliage make it more lovely than ever ; and nowhere can the mag- 
nificence of the autumnal forest ^cenery of New England be seen to better 
u.lvautag;^ than on her hills and mountains. 

Few localities 
are better or 
more favorably 
[ known to the 
■ artist world " 
I til an North Con- 
way. The varie- 
tj' of the scenery 
i s particularly 
noticeable : while 
it possesses some 
of the broadest 
landscape and 
mountain views, 
it is celebrated 
I for the beauty 
and artistic value 
of its choice 
"bits." Although 
midsummer is the most fashionable s ason at North Conway, we have 
our own opinion that it yields more pleasure when nature is fresh 
and redolent with the sweet breath of spring, or in the later season 
when valley and hillside are resplendent with the crimson and gold of 
autumn; and the same is true of the entire mountain toin*. To be sure, 
the chilly nights must be prepared for; and, if properly provided for in 
that respect, one need fear no discomfort. 

At this point passengers who left Boston by the Eastern or Boston and 
Maine Railroads for the White Mountains join our train. 

Six miles from North Conway is Glen Station, where stages are in 
readiness to convey passengers to Jackson (two miles), or to the Glen 
House fourteen miles distant by way of Pinkhara Notch, one of the 
three great highways which nature itself has hewn through the mountain 
wilderness. Six miles beyond we reach Upper Bartlett, shut in on all 
sides by high mountains, the situation j^ossessing many elements of 
beauty, in some respects resembling North Conway and its surroundings. 




DIANA'S BATHS. 



POPULAR KESORTS, AND HOW TO BEACH THEM. 



The railroad is already built from this point to Frankenstein Cliff', 
nine miles distant; with every indication that early in July the entire 
trip from Portland to the Crawford and Fabyan Houses will be accom- 
plished in the cars. 

Leaving Upper Bai'tlett, the road keeps to the valley for some six 
mibs, delaying till the last moment the steeper ascent it must soon 
commence; and the mountains, in seeming displeasure at this bold at- 
tempt to penetrate their hiding-places, draw closer together as if to dis- 
pute the passage. But onward we ride into the dark shadows of th ^ 
hills, crossing and recrossing the Saco, or leaping torrents rushing from 
the mountain side to join the larger stream. Just before reaching Bemis 
Station, we cross Nanc//^^ Brook, of memorable fame. At Bemis we 
shall see the old Crawford Homestead with its pretty clearing, and the 
residence of Dr. Bemis, built of granite quarried from these hills. ' From 
this place stages will connect temporarily for the Crawford House. 
Here "begins our ascent of the mountahi side ; and we shall reach, the 
Gate of the Notch, nine miles distant, by a continuous climb of a 
hundred feet and more in each mile of the journey. The character of 
the scenery does not change materially after leaving Bemis, until near- 
ing Frankenstein Cliff, when the most magnificent view in the entire 
mountain region rewards our waiting eyes. 

Towering higli above the beholder, stands Mount Washington in 
grander proportions than can be observed at a;iy other point. Spurs of 
high mountains ranging from its sides, like strong arms held out 
towards u.s, protect in their rough embrace the valley of the Mount 
Washinglon River, of which we have a splendid view in perspective from 
its confluence with the Saco to its source far up the side of Mount 
Monroe. This glorious picture which words fail to describe continues 
in full view from the road, and is not lost sight of until we have passed 
under the precipitous cliff of Frankenstein, continuing our journey i\p 
the side of WilJej/ Mountain. The railroad is most advantageously lo- 
cated for viewing the conformation of nature in this remarkable moun- 
tain-pass. Built upon the side-hill hundreds of feet above the old 
carriage-road, it overlooks the entire valley, and commands an unob- 
structed view from mountain-sumniit to river-bed throughout the six 
miles of the " Willey Notch." The advantage of the o]"ien observation 
cars is now realized. The lofty battlements of Mount Webster, scarred 
and torn by the storms of ages, guard the valley upon the east, a silent 
witness to the terrors of the flood which ravaged its fellow guardian 
of the west, and, beating down the rugged escarpment of the moun- 
tain, prepared the pathway for commerce which we in later days are 
utilizing. Across numerous water-courses, and over deep and rocky 
gorges, or clinging to the sides of precipitous ledges, we ride, each 



I 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



89 



moment revealing to us some new phase of mountain scenery. Just 
before emerging from the Notch, the hne passes under the brow of 
Mount Willard, which stands a stern sentinel at the head of the val- 
ley, and overlooks the whole. 
From the road at this point 
we may look back over the path 
by which we have come, and 
'^ gaze upon as grand a picture 
as the mind can well conceive. 
This view is identical with that 
from the summit of Mount 
Willard, already so celebrated; 
and because the prospect is 
nearer, enclosed with moun- 
tain cliffs on either side, and 
light and shade are seen with 
etter effect, gives more pleas- 
ure than that from the higher 
point. We look down into the 
basin-like valley with its sides 
sweeping upM'ard in graceful 
concaves ; cascade and water- 
fall tumble from the mountain 
side; and the Saco like a sil- 
vei thiead \^ eaves in and out 
aniom> tlio incks and through 
the green tex- 
^ ture of over- 
hanging foli- 
age; while at 
our feet lie 
the waters of 
Dismal Pool, 
secluded and 
still as if sul- 
len 1 y r e 1 u c- 
tant to move 
into the sun- 
siLVER CASCADE. light beyond. 

Across the valley the sparkling waters of Silver Cascade are seen, 
a mere thread of silver. Down from the mountain top it springs near a 
thousand feet in' successive leaps, a rushing, boiling, foaming mass, till 
it joins the waters of the Saco below. 




90 



POPULAR KESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



Turning to the left, while yet under the shade of Mount Willard we 
reach the summit of our ascent, and, bursting through the narrow Gate 
of the Notch, are soon at the hospitable doors of the Crawford House. 

It is four 
miles from 
Crawford's 
to the Fab- 
yan House; 
and the rail- 
road, having 
l^assedthe 
source of the 
Saco in the 
pretty lake- 
let between 
the Gate of 
the No t c h 
and the ho- 
tel, follows 
the valley of 
the A m m o- 
voosiic Rive?' 
for the re- 
maining dis- 
tance. After leaving the Crawford, and before we reach the Fabyan, 
another grand view of the Mount AVashington Range is had, including 
the entire western slope from Clinton to Clay, and the summits of 
Washington and Jefferson, the highest elevations of New England. The 
completed portion of this division of the Portland and Ogdensburg 
Railroad terminates at the doors of the Fabyan House, where connection 
is made with the "Boston, Concord, and Montreal;" and with the 
Mount Washington Turnpike and Railway, foi- the ascent of Mount 
Washington ; but the road is located from this point through the pleas- 
ant towns of Carroll and Whitefield to the Connecticut River, passing 
within easy distance of Jefferson Hill, the favorite resort of Stan- 
King. 

From the Connecticut the line, already mostly built and in operation, 
will cross the splendid farming country of Northern Vermont to the 
head of Lake Champlain, with branches to Montreal and Burlington. 
There are many attractions near the Crawford House, besides those 
already named, that will command the attention of the tourist, — Gibbs 
Falls, Beecher's Cascades, Mount Willard, Willey House, Sylvan Glade, and 
many others. 




WHITE MOUNTAIN NOTCH, 
From the Crawford House. 



POPULAR KESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 91 

For the lover of the wild and picturesque, the tourist will find ample 
opportunities to gratify his taste by a visit to Gibbs Falls, particularly 
if the stream is traced to its source at the base of the mountains. This 
locality was examined and the falls sketched by the writer in 1857, and 
named for the (then) proprietor of the Crawford House. Beecher's 
Falls have been popularized by the interest taken in them by their 
noted namesake. 

The •' Notch " is the great natural gateway to the White Mountains 
proper. Mounts Webster and Willard form its outstanding pillars. The 
scenery is grander than by any other approach. Nowhere can this be 
so well realized as from the summit of Mount Willard, which, with its 
admirable carriage-way, must always be one of the most popular resorts 
in this region. The " Gate of the Notch, " flanked by perpendicular 
ledges, is but twenty-four feet wide ; through which passes the carriage- 
road, and flow the waters of the Saco, which rises a short distance above. 
The Crairforf! House is also the starting-point of the only bridle-path to 
Mount Washington, which no person physically able should fail to visit. 
The path enters the foi-est at the house, through which it winds its way 
by a rough course to the summit of Mount Clinton; thence continuing by 
a rugged pathway over (or around) Mount Pleasant, Mount Franklin, 
Mount Monroe, to Mount Washington. The route follows the crest of the 
mountains, and affords a combination of the finest views in the region, — 
one of the grandest of which embraces that stupendous gulf, Tucker- 
man's Ravine, which falls sheer down a thousand feet. This not only 
forms one of the wildest retreats about the mountains, but it generally con- 
tains an individual feature of interest, the snow-ai'ch. During the winter 
months, the north-west winds completely fill this chasm with snow, which, 
packed by the driving storms of wind and sleet, by the warm rains of 
spring and the hot sun of summer, settles to a firm, compact mass. As 
the swollen streams pass beneath, the snow is melted. The massive bowl- 
ders which fill the valley become the base of so many ice-pillars, which 
remain and uphold the enormous snow-arch above. On the 12th of 
August, 1857, the writer entered this cavern to the distance of three 
hundred feet, and, by estimate, found the snow still twenty-five feet 
thick. It all passes away, however, by the last of August or the first of 
September. Tuckerman's Ravine can be visited from the Summit or 
from the Glen House. 

The bridle-path excursion, about nine miles, is frequently made by pe- 
destrians. But no one should attempt it without being well shod ; and the 
sudden accumulation of clouds and mists on the mountains renders an ex- 
perienced guide indispensable. The " Crawford " has always been noted 
for its admirable cuisine, and will be found withal one of the most desir- 
able houses at the mountains. It is also reached by the Boston, Concord, 
and Montreal Railroad, to the Fabyan House, and thence by Crawford 
House coach. 



92 POPULAR KESOKTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM. 



PLEASURE ROUTE No. 6. 

Portland to the White Mountains, Lake Umbagog, and 
Rangeley Lakes, Montreal, Quebec, Thousand Islands, 
Niagara Falls, and the West. 

GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY. 

The Grand Trunk Railway connects in Portland with all roads run- 
ning east and west. The approach to the White Mountains from Port- 
land and the East by this line presents many points of individual 
interest. This is also a favorite route to Lake Umbagog, and the 
Rangeley Lakes ; and when properly understood, through description 
and illustrations, must prove an excursion of great popularity. In this 
connection a few of the more important objects of interest will be 
described ; although general illustrations must be deferred to a future 
edition. Leaving Portland, the line of the road soon enters the valley 
of the Androscoggin, up which it continues surrounded by the beautiful 
scenery for which this region is noted. 

Bethel, a fine summer resort of local fame, possesses the elements 
of popularity, and, when better known, will be sought for its many 
attractions. It has much the character of North Conway, and each year 
increases in popularity. 

Lake Umbagog is reached by stage twenty-six miles through scenes of 
various interests, and, like most of these inland sheets of water, the fish- 
ing is good. 

Rumford Falls in the hilly town of Rumford, Me., on the Andros- 
coggin River, for height, rugged grandeur, and picturesque beauty, 
have no superiors in New England. In three rapid and successive leaps 
the river makes a quick descent of over one hundred and fifty feet. The 
interest in the falls is greatly enhanced by the wildness of the surround- 
ings. Reached by the Grand Trunk Railroad to Bryant's Pond Station, 
and thence by stage. 

Near the station at Gorham, N.H. , are located several mountains of 
considerable fame. One of the first points of interest is Mount Hayes, 
one of the north-eastern spurs of the White Mountains, an elevation of 
twenty-five hundred feet. It rises from the eastern bank of the Andros- 
coggin River; and, before the Alpine House was destroyed by fire, a visit 
to this mountain was a popular excursion for its guests. A foot-path 
leads to the summit where is obtained a fine view of Mount Washington 
and neighboring peaks. 



POPULAB KESORTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM, 03 

Mount Moriah, N.H., having an altitude of forty-seven hundred 
feet, rises from the valley of the Androscoggin, near Mount Hayes, 
north-east from the White Mountains proper. In a region where moun- 
tains were less common, this would be worthy of moi'e attention. A bridle- 
path once led to the summit ; but it is now neglected, and out of repair. 

Mount Surprise is another name for one portion of Mount Moriah. 
This mountain is generally visited for the fine view of Pinkham Notch 
which it affords. It has had less visitors since the destruction of the 
Alpine House, but it has always been one of the favorites with tourists 
to the mountains. It has a good bridle-path ; but, although saddle-horses 
can be always obtained, it is much visited on foot. The summit com- 
mands a very fine view of the Wliite Mountain group. It is reached 
from the Gorhani Station of the Grand Trunk Railroad. Visitors to the 
Glen House go by stage eight miles from Gorham Station ; from thence 
a carriage-road extends up Mount Washington. 

The Glen is oiie of the largest summer resorts in the White Moun- 
tain region. This fine establishment occupies a most picturesque loca- 
tion in the beautiful valley of the Peabody River, within a few rods of 
Monnt Washington Summit Carriage-Road (which is one of the best 
constructed roads in the country), connnanding a fine view, from base to 
summit, of Mounts Washington, Jefferson, Adams, and JNIadison, head 
of Tuckerman Ravine, and the Carter Range, — forming one of the finest 
panoramas to be obtained in the whole mountain region of Xew Hamp- 
shire. 

Other points of especial interest in the vicinity are Glen Ellis Falls, 
Crystal Cascade, &c. 

Berlin Falls, N. H. — Whoever shall have made the tour from Gor- 
ham to the Rangeley Lakes, and sailed across the charming Unibagog, 
where the wild Androscoggin gathers its head-waters preparatory for a 
race to the sea, and neglected to visit Berlin Falls, will have missed one 
of the most attractive features of that enjoyable excursion. Here, 
indeed, for the space of a mile, is one continuous rush and ioar of watei s. 
one wild, foaming cascade. AValls of adamantine rock crowd the 
Androscoggin into a narrow space through which it rushes, and in its 
mad career falling, tumbling, boiling among the rocks, a mass of glitter- 
ing spray. They are but a half-dozen miles distant from Gorham Station. 

Dixville Notch, Connecticut Lake, and Stratford Peaks, described 
in Pleasure Route No. 1, are also reached by this, which is also one of 
the principal thoroughfares to Montreal, Quebec, and the West. 



94 POPULAit KESOBTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM. 

PLEASURE ROUTE No. 7. 

Portland to Lewiston, Parmington, Rangeley Lakes, Bath, 
Augusta, Moosehead Lake, Bangor, St. John, and the 
Provinces. 

MAINE CENTRAL RAILROAD. 

The Maine Central Railroad is a continuation of the Eastern, and 
connects in Portland with the Boston and Maine, Portland and Ogdens- 
burg, Portland and Rochester, and Grand Trunk Railroads, and Boston, 
Mount Desert, Machias, and Bangor boats. 

The Rangeley Lakes are perhaps, at this time, receiving more 
attention from tourists than any other section of Maine; not only from 
their individual attractions, but from their wild surroundings. The 
complete tour, with its boating and portage, possesses just enough 
adventure to give romance to the occasion. This remarkable chain of 
waters consists of several distinct lakes, connected by narrows and 
streams, yet forming one continuous water communication for a distance 
of over forty miles. Each has its individual name, but they are collect- 
ively known as "The Rangeley Lakes." There are, probably, few 
places in the country where trout-fishing can be more successfully enjoyed. 
They are generally reached by the Maine Central Railroad to Farmington, 
a place of growing popularity as a summer home, and thence thirty-six 
miles by stage. You will spend the night at Phillips, seventeen miles 
from Farmington, where excellent quarters will be found at the Barden 
House; and, rested and refreshed, the traveller will better enjoy the 
remainder of the journey. Indeed, so comfortable are the accommo- 
dations, so fine the surrounding scenery, and so excellent the speckled- 
trout fishing in the neighboring streams, that, in spite of itself, 
Phillips is growing rapidly to assume the character of a summer resort, 
in every thing save exorbitant prices. Many tourists arrange to spend 
several days or weeks here, for rest and recuperation. The proximity of 
Mounts Blue, Abraham, and Saddleback not only gives a pleasing variety 
to the landscape, but form objective points for short excursions. 

Mount Blue, Me., with an altitude of four thousand feet, is but a few 
miles away, and is famed for the wonderfully diversified views its sum- 
mit affords. The region is mountainous and picturesque, and is noted 
for the pure water of its streams, and for its invigorating atmosphere. 
Mount Blue is reached by the Maine Central Railroad to Farmington, 
thence by stage to Weld, fifteen miles, or Phillips, eighteen miles; usually 
the latter. 



POPULAR KESORTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM. 95 

Saddleback Mountain iu altitude is but little lower than Mount 
Blue; but, although affording fine views, is not yet so favorably known. 
Go by stage from Farnungton to Madrid, or from Phillips direct. 

Damariscotta Lake, located in Lincoln County, is a resort just 
springing into existence. It is twelve miles long by three wide, at its 
greatest extremities; although its remarkable irregular shores give great 
changes in its apparent size. It is beautifully interspersed with islands; 
its coast is divided into sand and gravelly beaches, and rough rock- 
bound shores, frequently overhung and shaded by groves of leafy trees, 
which form delightful resorts for " picnic grounds." A summer hotel 
has just been erected, and a pleasure steamboat placed on the lake for 
the entertainment of guests. Reached by the Knox and Lincoln Rail- 
road, from the "Maine Central." 

Moosehead Lake is the largest and most important of the inland 
waters of Maine. It is thirty-five miles long, and varies from four to 
twelve miles in width. It is somewhat larger than Lake Winnepesaukee, 
but falls far behind it in notable characteristics and attractions. It is 
nearly surrounded by dense forests, and is much frequented by sports- 
men. Deer and moosj were formerly plenty, and are now occasionally 
met. The special amusement, however, is trout-fishing. Still-fishing 
is also good. Moosehead Lake is a resort of increasing attractions. 

Mount Kineo is a bold, rugged bluff, rising precipitously from the 
east shore of Moosehead Lake, beneath the shadow of which, on a pro- 
truding point of land, the Mount Kineo House is situated. This eleva- 
tion is easily ascended, and affords fine views of the lake. The village 
of Greenville, at the foot of the lake, is reached by several distinct 
routes. Take the JNIaine Central Railroad tq Skow^hegan, thence by 
stage fifty miles; or by stage from Dexter Station, on the same road; or 
by rail or steamer to Bangor, thence by the Bangor and Piscataquis Kail- 
road to Guilford, and from there by stage twenty-three miles to Green- 
ville, where the boats connect with ]\Iount Kineo. 

Lakes Chesuncook, twenty miles long by two wide, Caucom- 
gomuc, Caucomgomosis, and AUagash, are a chain of lakes on 
the head waters of the Penobscot River, beyond the lines of civiliza- 
tion, and only interesting to tourists as camping-out fields for sports- 
men. They are passed by canoes successively, from Moosehead Lake to 
Mattawamkeag or Old Town. A week's supply of provisions, with 
experienced guides, will be required. Mount Katahdiu can be visited 
en route. 



96 POPULAR EESORTS, AXD HOW TO REACH THEM. 

Mount Katahdin, 5,385 feet high, is the most elevated mountain 
in Maine. Its altitude is but nine hundred feet below Mount Washiiir;- 
ton; yet it is seldom visited, and but little known to tourists. It rises 
from a dense primitive forest intersected by streams, ponds, and lakes. 
The region is without public highways and hotels, and lacks those home- 
like conveniences and accommodations necessary for a popular resort; 
yet it possesses the very elements desired by the angler and hunter, 
and is much frequented by sportsmen. 

Mount Katahdin is reached from Bangor to Mattawamkeag, fifty-eight 
miles, via European and Xorth- American Railway, thence by stage thirty- 
eight miles to Patten, the nearest public conveyance, from which place 
guides are necessary. 

THE EASTERN PROVINCES. 

From Bangor, the tourist bound to the Eastern Provinces — New 
Brunswick, Nova Scotia, and Prince Edward's Island — by rail makes 
his first stop in the city of St. John, where there are several fsir 
hotels, the best being the Victoria. Fredericton, the capital of New 
Brunswick, lies some distance above on the River St. John, and is a 
much cleaner and pleasanter place. From here tlie tourist can proceed 
to Shediac, and take the steamer for Summerside. Prince Edward's 
Island, a charming spot, from whence he can stage it tlirough a beau- 
tiful and romantic coiuitry to C'harlottetown, forty miles distant. Tlie 
only watering-place pi'oper of the island is a little village eighteen niiU'S 
distant, called Rustico. From C'harlottetown steamex's can be taken to 
Pictou, the centre of the coal i-egion. From there the distance to Hali- 
fax is made by rail, passing through Windsor and Truro, two imjiortant 
towns. Halifax is a quaint old city, with a few fine buildings and many 
dingy ones. It is an interesting place, however. Before leaving Pictou 
for Halifax, a visit to Sydney and the site of the ancient city of Louis- 
burg in Cape Breton would be time and money well sp?nt. 

On the return, the tourist would either go by the way of Truro, and 
thence to ^Nlonckton on the Intercolonial Line through the pleasant 
towns of Sackville, Amherst, and Dorchester; or, by taking the Annap- 
olis Railway at Windsor Junction, pass through the most delightful por- 
tion of the Province, south of the Basin of Minas, and tin-ough the 
Annapolis valley, the scene of Longfellow's pathetic poem of " Evan- 
geline." Here are the famous dike marshes extending uninterruptedly 
for ten or twelve miles, the remains of ancient orchards, and the stone 
chimneys of ancient habitations. From Annapolis the steamer can be 
taken to St. John; or stage can be taken for Yarmouth, a large and 
important town at the Southern extremity of the Province, from which 
port there is regular communication with Boston by steamer. 



POPULAR KESOKTS, AND HOW TO REACH THKM. 



97 



ILLUSTRATED PLEASURE ROUTE No. 8. 

Boston to New Port, R.I., Duxbury, Plymouth, Province- 
town, Hyannis, Woods Hole. Nantucket, Oak Bluffs, and 
the Goal Towns of South-Eastern Massachusetts. 

THE, OLD COLONY K.\ILKOAD. 

Who has ever examined the map of Eastern Massachusetts, with its 
long arm stretching out into the sea, — the land of the '"Pilgrim Fa- 
thers," — without feeling a desire to visit it ? From Boston to Navraganset 
Bay, the coast is filled with interesting localities, many of them identified 
with the early history of the country. The rockbound shores of Cohas- 
set are noted for their grand marine views ; the beautiful harbor of 
Plymouth is surrounded by scenes replete with historic memories ; the 
barren coast of Cape Cod 
is made interesting by the 
beautiful summer resorts 
which line its borders; 
the sail through Vineyard 
Sound, "the great high- 
way of commerce," to 
Newport, with Falmouth 
Heights and tho Elizabeth 
Islands on the right, and 
Martha'' s Vineijard wilh 
Oak Bluffs and Gaij Head 
on the left, is truly de- 
lightful, and cannot fail 
to please. 

To all these localities 
the Old Colony Railroad 
leads. Its branches and 
connecting lines of steamers unite all these prominent puints of in- 
terest with Boston and New York ; and its admirable construction and 
superior equipment render it one of the most popular summer routes in 
the countr3^ The original line extended from Boston to Plymouth 
thirty-seven and one-half miles, and from Fall River to Myricks, twelve 
miles. It now comprises a line of three hundred miles extending from 
Boston, the metropolis of New England, to Newport, R.I., and to all the 
principal cities, towns, and villages of South-eastern Massachusetts. 

A glance at the map shows the two routes between Boston and New- 
port : viz., Via Randolph, Stoughton, Easton, Taunton, Dighton, and 
Somerset; and via Brockton, Bridgewater, and Middleboro', which 




98 



POPULAR RESORTS, AJS^D HOW TO REACH THEM. 



unite near Fall River ; the line to Provincetown, the end of Cape Cod ; 
that to Woods Hole, the mainland terminus of the Vineyard and Nan- 
tucket steamers; the line to "Plymouth Rock," passing through the 
Abingtons, Plympton, and Kingston ; the Sea- Shore Line, through 
Quincy, Braintree, Weymouth, Hingham, Nantasket, Cohasset, the 
Scituates, Marshfield (the home of Webster), and South Duxbury, the 
American station of the " French Cable," to, and intersecting, the 
Plymouth Line at Kingston ; also the suburban Branches, " Shawmut," 
"Milton," and " Granite." 




BOAT-HOUSE LANDING, NEWPORT R. 



No more beautiful summer routes can be selected for a day trip 
from the metropolis, than from these shore lines. Notwithstanding this 
was the earliest settled portion of New England, considerable sections of 
it still exhibit a primitive wildness. The following are among the noted 
summer resorts reached by the Old Colony Railroad : — 

"Wollaston Heights, in the northerly portion of the old town of 
Quincy, is situated upon a beautiful eminence overlooking Boston 
Harbor and the surrounding country. Good hotel accommodations. 

Hingham. — This ancient town is a favorite resort for summer resi- 
dents, is situated but seventeen miles from Boston, upon the southerly 
shores of Boston Bay, has many agreeable attractions, both for the toui'ist 
and the temporary resident. 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 99 

Nantasket Beach is rapidly rising into popularity, although more 
of a local than a general character. The beach is long, and just like all 
the sandy frills of our Atlantic coast. The surface is hard, and admir- 
ably adapted to driving or bathing. It is but eighteen miles from Boston. 
Eleven light-houses can be seen from the shore ; and it may well be pro- 
nounced one of the most delightful watering-places in the country. 
Sailing and fishing are without limit; and tens of thousands flock to 
enjoy the varied beauties of the scene, and the soothing temperature of 
the coast and sea air, daily, when the heated term is in full power. 

Cohasset, which was sliced from Hingham, is a glorious spot for all 
lovers of the moody sea. Here are cliffy rocks enough, with a broken 
sea-margin, to insure a turbulent ocean even in a comparative calm ; 
and, when old Neptune is in one of his fiery moods, the scenery around 
the shores of Cohasset rises to a degree of sublimity and grandeur that 
surpasses description. The wild, picturesque beauties of Cohasset rocks 
form an admirable subject for the artist's pencil ; and here the lover of 
the beauties of nature delights to linger. Marshfield, the home of 
Webster, will also attract attention. Duxburyis thirty-nine miles from 
Boston. A walk to Captain's Hill, where a monument is being erected to 
the memory of Miles Standish, forms a pleasant objective point. 

Plymouth. — Although the road to Plymouth passes through several 
thriving and interesting villages, the chief object of the tourist will be 
a visit to Plymouth itself, — a visit which cannot fail to interest him; 
and fortunately for his enjoyment, whether his sojourn is for a day or a 
week, he will find, at the Samoset and Clifford Houses, accommodations 
which will render his stay agreeable. Plymouth has a world-wide fame. 
If the orations delivered in honor of "The Pilgrim Fathers" were all 
printed in one book, it would make a volume fearful to encounter ; for 
those famous " Pilgrims " landed there, as is generally known. Plymouth 
is a wholesome, steady, well-to-do town, with nothing remarkable about 
it except its historic notoriety. And yet the pleasure-seeker can find 
enough here to busy his hands. There is fair shooting at "the Point," 
some nine miles down the harbor; and sea and pond fishing are abundant. 
But the harbor is not good for commerce ; and the place will depend 
chiefly upon the direction in which its capital is utilized. At one period 
Plymouth was of considerable maritime importance. It is but thirty- 
seven miles from Boston, and is reached in a little more than an hour's 
ride. The town is well laid out, and pleasantly located, on ground sloping 
to the water. Burial Hill, above, commands a fine view of the harbor. 
Pilgrim Hall, with its many curious relics; Plymouth Rock, Cole's Hill, 
and Clark's Island (where the Pilgrims "rested on Sunday, Dec. 10, 



100 POI'ULAK RESOKTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM. 

1620," before landing at Plymouth on the 20th), are all interesting places 
to visit. The vicinity of Plymouth, with its fresh-water lakes and fine 
drives, also presents objects of interest. 

Scituate is really a very pleasant place, and has many agreeable 
attractions both for the tourist and the temporary resident. 

The Cape Cod Division of the Old Colony Railroad extends to Prov- 
incetown, the extreme point of Cape Cod, one hundred and twenty miles 
distant from Boston. The fine harbor at Provincetown presents a refuge 




for the storm-driven mariner. The place is inhabited largely by sea- 
faring men ; and its thrifty appearance is a fine illustration of what an 
enterprising community can drag from the sea. It is built on and sur- 
rounded by sand-hills ; and the earth of its gardens, so green and beauti- 
ful, is mostly brought from the mainland. Branches lead from this road, 
from Cohasset Narrows to Woods Hole, and from Yarmouth to Hyannis, 
which was the terminus of the road before it was extended to Province- 
town. 

Hyannis is a pleasant village, and, next to Provincetown, the 
largest place on the Cape. It is prettily laid out, and ornamented by 
shade-trees. The inhabitants are engaged in a sea-faring life; and many 
retired sea-captains and merchants have made this their home. The rail- 
road leads through the village a mile to the sea, where a fine wharf has 
been constructed. A growing seaside village, a short distance to the 
west, overlooks the harbor to Vineyard Sound and Martha's Vineyard 
beyond. A land company has erected a new hotel, for the accommoda- 
tion of summer guests; and many fine cottages have already been built, 
and others are in course of construction. The serrated coast from Hyan- 
nis to Woods Hole is alternated with fine beaches, summer resorts, and 
wild lands, where the sportsman and fisherman delight to roam. 



l'OrMtI,AK UKSOHTS, AND HOW TO IlKACH TUKM. 



101 



The name of "Cape Cod" is synonymous in most jninds with sand, 
sea, and codfish. For tlie delicate and sensitive devotees of fashion 
these words have no charm ; but, for the more hardy seekers for novelty 
and pleasure, they indicate shooting, fishing, and pure air. The charac- 
teristics of Cape Cod, although having a likeness to the whole coast 
family of attractions, are, after all, peculiar to itself. It is not an island ; 
and yet it is as really in the arms of the Atlantic as though it were alone in 
its waters. To be on the shores of " Cape Cod " is to have the alternating 
humors of the ocean, as much as though it were Nantucket. Of course, 
Cape Cod is not a town nor a city nor an island ; for it is " Cape 
Cod," and embraces towns, villages, islands, beaches, headlands, rocks, 
reefs, sand, salt, plover, ducks, coots, and codfish. It is of varied pleas- 
ures, found in numerous and peculiar places. 




^•■'^ 



TROUT POND. 

There is Cotuit Port, for example, nestled on high land, and in a 
charming location,, almost romantic. It is also the rural home of many 
families of taste. Few summer resorts surpass it. It is reached by 
the Old Colony Railroad and connecting stages. 

Falmouth Heights, a rising place, with rare attractions, now in 
l)rocess of development by a company of capitalists. It is a delightful 
location, and commands a fine view of Vineyard Sound. The prospect 
opens to the south; the ground is high, falling gently from a wooded 
crest to the bluff, which drops thirty feet to the beach below. Serpentine 
walks and drives permeate the groves of oak, in which cottages are pleas- 
antly placed. A grand ocean avenue leads for miles along bluff and 
through the groves to the point of starting. A commodious hotel is open 



102 



POPULAB BESORTS, AND HOW TO BEACH THEM. 



to guests in summer. The railroad which leads to Falmouth Heights and 
Woods Hole branches from the main road at Cohasset Narrows. This 
locality abounds in fine landscape and marine views; and summer resi- 
dences will soon dot the scene. 



Woods Hole is a picturesque hamlet of a hundred buildings, located 
on a promontory, on the extreme southern point of the peninsula which 
forms Barnstable County. The harbor is small, but affords good anchor- 
age, and is well protected by outlying headlands and islands. This is 
the terminus of the road in this direction, and is the nearest point of 
railroad connection to Martha's Vineyard. 




town in the Commonwealth. 



Thirty miles out at sea is 
a tufted sand-bank fifteen 
miles long : on it is the quaint- 
est and most old-fashioned 
The zeal and energy of its hardy seamen, 



POPULAR RKSORTS, AND HOW TO REAOH THEM. 103 

who pursued the whale in its arctic home, made Nantucket in earlier 
times familiar to the British Parliament. Nantucket is now coming to 
the front as a watering-place. The facilities for the rugged sports of the 
seaside which it otters, its bracing and genial air, the many attractions 
that surround it, the absence of fogs, and the home amusements presented, 
the easy sail of two hours, — all commend Nantucket to parties in search 
of out-door excitement and healthy recreation. 

The town is specially commended to invalids who seek quiet and 
repose. Visitors can take their breakfast at the White Mountains, and 
sleep in Nantucket; men of business can reach New York or the White 
Mountains as easily as from Boston. The connections are swift and 
sure for travel east, west, north, or south. The town is peculiar for its 
quaint customs. Lectures, meetings, and arrivals are announced as of 
old by the bellman. Carts take the place of coaches, in which passengers 
stand. Young ladies invite their friends to a ride, back up a one-horse 
cart to the door, mount by means of a chair, and drive off with as much 
sang-froid as a fashionable city lady would enter the park in her phaeton. 

Nantucket is full of surprises, and has many attractions. Its hotels 
and boarding-houses are ample : its athenseum, library, marine curiosi- 
ties, its ancient houses of 1686, and the residence of the last of the In- 
dians, are full of historic interest. 

Oak Bluffs as a summer resort is an immense success, and its 
magical growth has fairly earned for it the appellation of the Cottage City 
of America. The sail from Woods Hole in the elegant steamers that 
ply between that place and the Vineyard and Nantucket, in connection 
with the Old Colony Railroad, is simply delightful. Buzzard's Bay is 
studded with beauty and with places of rare interest. The entire fleet 
plying between New York and the coast passes in view of the prominent 
hotels, often bringing into view a thousand sail. 

This city of cottages has concrete drives, horse-railroads, a trotting- 
course, and all modern improvements. The great ' ' Vineyard Camp- 
Meeting Association " holds its annual gatherings in the beautiful ' ' Wes- 
leyan Grove," adjacent to the place. Fully fifteen thousand visitors have 
been upon the island at one time. Hotels and boarding-places are num- 
bered by scores. 

A narrow-gauge steam-railroad connects Oak Bluffs with Edgartown, 
and with Katama, the beautiful new watering-resort, about nine miles 
southerly from the Bluffs. Katama is situated upon the magnificent bay 
of the same name, has a fine hotel, and delightfiil still-water and surf 
bathing, and attracts many visitors. The direct route to the Vineyard 
is via the "Old Colony Line." Taking the cars at Boston, an hour is 
saved over any other route, and all sea-sickness is avoided. 



104 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOAV TO REACH THEM. 



Newport, R. I., is now the fashionable queen of all American watering 
resorts, for summer pleasure. With comparatively little of striking or 
romantic scenexy, it has attractions peculiarly its own. Wealth and 
social distinction having approved of this really delightful location, the 
summer gatherings are of the gayest and most brilliant description. 
In elegance and splendor of outfit ; in fame and beauty of its throngs ; 
in all that invites the curious, the seekers after pleasure, the invalid's 
repose, and the glare and extravagance of fashion, — Newport is unri- 
valled. Indeed, this ancient and once renowned seat of commerce, after 
sinking into semi-oblivion, has been Rip- Van-Winkled into fame 
again, and is now in the bloom of a vigorous summer life, though 
still inclined to its winter drowse. The location of Fort Adams at 
Newport also adds to the attractiveness of the place. 




NEWPORT, R.I. 
Old Colony Steamboat Company's Docks. 

From the south, Newport is reached by the Sound Steamers of the 
Old Colony Steamboat Company, "Fall River Line;" and from Boston by 
the '-Old Colony" Road. Steamers also leave Providence for that city, 
stopping at all the leading places of interest along the shores of Narra- 
ganset Bay. 

Perhaps in no particular has greater improvement been made in the 
last few years, than in the taste displayed in the construction of steam- 
boats and railway cars, thus greatly lessening the fatigue and annoy- 
ance of" travel. A journey may now be made without losing for a day 
the comforts of home. Cars and boats furnished with elegant parlors, 
inviting saloons, and luxuriant state-rooms, are now found on all the 
lirincipal routes in America. 



POPULAR RESOUTS, AND HOW TO KKACH THEM. 105 

OLD COLONY STEAMBOAT COMPANY, "KALI. KIVKR LINE," 

Betiraen New York and Bo.sldii, rid Neirpnrt nnil Fall llwer. 

The Old Colony Steamboat Company may well be said to occupy 
the front rank in this improvement ; and its boats have no superiors in 
the world. Flying between the metropolis of the nation and the most 
fashionable watering-place on the continent, their saloons are constantly 
patronized by the elite of society. 

Every afternoon long lines of carriages deposit their passengers at the 
company's wharf, Pier 28 (foot of Murray Street) North River, 
New York City; and at 5 p.m. in summer, and 4 p.m. in winter, the 
signal gun announces the hour of departure, and these magnificent float- 
ing palaces, crowded with human freight, glide into the stream. Martial 
music, by Hall's Boston Brass Band, enlivens the scene, as the gayly- 
dressed steamer majestically threads her way through the noble harbor, 
made rich in panoramic scenes by the marine of all nations. The twi- 
light deepens as the stately vessel enters the East River, on her way to 
the placid waters of Long Island Sound. The scenery becomes beauti- 
fied by the enchanting villas that line the shores, the homes of wealth 
and beauty ; and nought is heard but the exclamations of delight from 
the assembled throng, the merry laugh of the promenaders, and the intoxi- 
cating strains of the reed and string music which have replaced the brass 
band. Thus into the night glides this living freight, — faith, comfort, 
and contentment resting iii the minds of all. 

The fleet of steamers formerly owned by the Narragansett Steamship 
Company (now by the "Old Colony") comprises the "Bristol," "Provi- 
dence," "Old Colony," "Newport," all of which are well known to the 
travelling public. 

If we had not been warned by the march of improvement in the past, 
we should be tempted to believe that steamboat building has reached its 
climax in the superb vessels "Bristol " and "Providence." 

On crossing the gang-plank the visitor finds himself on a broad deck, 
surroimded by richly carved and gilded panelling. The deck itself is 
composed of alternate strips of yellow pine and black walnut. In 
extreme width, this main deck measures eighty-four feet. Surrounding 
that portion of it which we enter from the wharf are the various offices 
for tickets, luggage, &c. Large doors in the after bulkhead lead to the 
ladies' saloons and state-rooms, which are appropi-iately divided for the 
use of ladies travelling alone, and for families with children, the most 
complete accommodations being provided for all. The main deck is 
divided into two general divisions by sliding glass doors. The forward 
part is used for freight; and the after part, which lias just been described, 
is devoted to the use of passengers. From this after part, stairways lead 



106 



POPULAK KESOBTS, AND HOW TO liKACH THEM. 



to the upper and lower saloons. These stairs, with their highly-polished 
brass steps and their carved and graceful mahogany balusters, are sep- 
arated from the open deck by a semicircular partition of woodwork and 
glass, which prevents the too strong draughts which a head wind some- 
times occasions. Entering this semicircular enclosure, we descend to the 
lower saloon and supper-room. Here, in long perspective, tables, glit- 
tering with cut-glass and silver, stretch away toward the stern of the 
boat. Just forward of the stairway are the china-closet and kitchen, 
where all the culinary operations required on the boat are performed, and 
whose neat array of shining cooking utensils would delight the heart of 
the most fastidious housekeeper. 




MAIN SALOON 
Of the world-renowned Steanners " Bristol " and 



Leaving the appetizing scenes of the kitchen and supper-room, we 
ascend two broad and easy flights of stairs to the main saloon, which 
runs fore and aft neai'ly the whole length of the boat, with rows of state- 
rooms on each side, and. in fact, overhead, — for there is yet another stair- 
way, and another tier of state-rooms above us. The eight rooms which 
occupy the after part of the main saloon are for the accommodation of 
those who desire more luxurious surroundings than are sought by the 
public at large. These rooms far excel in elegance those of any first 
class hotel, and in size they are at least equal to the ordinary rooms of 
seaside houses. The other state-rooms, numbering in all three hundred, 
are large and well ventilated. They possess the peculiarity of having, 
in place of the ordinary fixed bunks, a kind of two-storied black walnut 
bedstead, which, being detached from the light woodwork, is compara- 
tively free from the vibration commonly perceived when a steamboat is 



POPULAR BESOKTS, AND HOW TO KEACII THEM. 107 

under way. Besides this provision against vibration, it will be observed 
that the partitions between the rooms are built diagonally ; so that, 
instead of working with every revolution of the wheels, they form, in 
the aggregate, a powerful set of braces, adding much to the strength of 
the superstructure. The state-rooms of the upper tier are entered from 
broad galleries, which run around the saloon. These galleries unite at 
either end, and form spacious landings, on wliich are tables and chairs 
similar to those in the saloon ; and the boats are lighted by gas. 



STEAMER BRISTOL 

Passing proposed Bridge between New York and Brooklyn. 

Tukitn hi/ permUfsion/voiii lyaircn'^ (iLngrapliii, iiiMhheil by Cowiierlhivnil !f Co., /'/lila'/iljihia. 

At 5.30, P.M., daily (Sundays, during the summer at G.30), passengers for 
New York leave Boston, from the depot of the Old Colony Railroad, con- 
necting with steamer at Fall River, leaving there at 7.15, p.m. ; and at 
8.45 in the evening the boat leaves Newport, arriving in New York in 
season to connect with all through trains South and West. 

Passengers from New York, the West, or South, for any of the above 
places, can pui-chase tickets and have their baggage checked to destina- 
tion ; and by branch roads will be taken direct to any of the delightful 
resorts to which it leads, without the necessity of going to Boston. 



108 



POPULAR KESOKTS, AND HOW TO BEACH THEM. 



PLEASURE ROUTE No. 9. 

EXCURSION TO OAK BLUFFS AND KATAMA BAY. 

The coast of New England abounds in beautiful harbors, charming 
bays, and quiet inlets, many of which are unknown to the public for 
want of means of communication. But the popular and increasing 
custom of spending the summer months at the sea-shore every year 
causes the development of new and delightful resorts, — localities whose 
quiet beauty frequently proves a surprise to the travelling public. Yet 
it has so often happened that a long time intervenes before such accom- 
modations are prepared, that tourists have hesitation in visiting any but 
the beaten tracks of travel. Very fortunately, however, this difficulty is 
being largely obviated by the action of business men, who, with a quick 
eye for the beautiful, and sharp discernment for the wants of the public, 
do not hesitate, on discovering a desirable locality, to announce it with 




STEAMBOAT "MARTHAS VINEYARD" PASSING OAK BLUFFS. 



hotel accommodations complete. Such is the case at Katama Bay, 
where the first building erected was a large and commodious hotel. 
The name of " Katama " is not a familiar one ; and many will read it 
now for the first time. If such, howevei", will look at the map of Mas- 
sachusetts, they will see off the eastern shore of ISIartha's Vineyard a 
bay or channel separating it from Chappaquiddick Island, which forms 
the point. This beautiful sheet of water is but eight miles south-east 
from Oak Bluffs, now so extensively known as a summer resort. 



POIM'LAK KKSOKTS, AND HOW TO HEACH TltKM. 109 

Tourists by rail to New Bedford connect witli the fine side-wheel boats 
" Martha's Vineyard " and " Monohansett," of the Martha's Vineyard 
Line of steamers, for Oak Bluflfs and Katama. 

The excursion from New Bedford is one of the pleasantest on the 
coast. We have a fine view of Fairhaven as we sail down the harbor. 
This town is pleasantly located ; and a number of beautiful private resi- 
dences, half hidden by foliage, overlook the water. An old fort stands 
upon a rocky promontory at the east entrance of the harbor, opposite to 
which, upOn an island, is the light-house. At this point we enter Buz- 
zard's Bay, and cross directly to " Woods Hole," a dozen miles away. 

Buzzard's Bay and Vineyard Sound are so protected by headlands and 
outlying islands, that the sail is delightful. ^Vhile the coast turns back 
to the left, after passing the fort, on the right the main-hmd pushes out 
into the sea, forming a cape, on which Clark's TPoint Light-house stands, 
and Fort Tabor occupies a commanding position. From this the bay 
opens to the right; and the main-land stretches away in the distance to a 
marked promontory known as " Round Hill." "Dumpling" or Round 
Hill Light stands on an isolated rock off this point, beyond which is 
the main entrance to Buzzard's Bay. The Elizabeth Islands are on the 
opposite side of the channel. These are individually known by their 
Indian names, commencing with the westernmost, as Cuttyhimk, Penni- 
keese, Neshawana, Peskeneese, Naushon, Nonnamensett, and to com- 
plete the rhyme, mariners have added, Woods Hole, Quequonkesset. 
Turning to the left, the main-land, extending towards Cape Cod, can be 
seen in the blue distance, with Black Rock, a dangerous shoal, lying be- 
tween. As we approach Woods Hole, the island of Naushon stretches six 
or seven miles away to our right. This is the property of Capt. John AL 
Forbes of Boston. His summer residence, and that of his son, form 
conspicuous features in the landscape. An extensive grove of beech 
and oak has been stocked with deer, where his friends are annually en- 
tertained with a genuine deer-hunt. 

The entrance to AVoods Hole is narrow and tortuous, with sunken 
rocks on either side, requiring great nautical skill in its passage. The 
harbor is small, but deep, and well protected. A hundred houses, 
perched upon the surrounding hills, many of them quite beautiful, com- 
prise the town ; the depot of the Old Colony Railroad being the most 
conspicuous feature. Visitors to Katama or Oak Bluffs who prefer to 
go to this place by rail can take the cars at the Old Colony Depot, 
Boston, and continue from here by boat. The light-house, with its 
beacon light, stands on a headland at the mouth of the harbor, and 
marks the entrance to Vineyard Sound. The sail across the sound is 
delightful. Martha's Vineyard lies directly before you. Gay Head 
Light is seen far away to the right, while Falmouth Heights are on the 
left. 



110 



POPULAiJ RESOBTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



VINP:YARD HAVEN. 



This town, formerly called Holmes' Hole, is approached between two 
headlands, known as the " East " and " West Chop." Its harbor is 
indeed a haven for the storm-driven mariner; and hundreds of sail 
frequently lay here for days awaiting a favorable wind. ' The village of 
Vineyard Haven rests upon a hillside, slojiuig gently to the water. 

The town is 
old: several 
churches, a few 
newly ei-ected 
residences, and 
an old wind-mill 
whose arm s 
point to the past, 
form the con- 
spicuous fea- 
tures in the land- 
scape. By the 
formation of a 
natural dike 
across the south- 
ern portion of 
the harbor, a 
small lake, three 
miles long, has 
been separated 
from it, known 
as Lagoon Pond, 
which is noted 

for its fine oysters of artificial culture. A carriage-drive along this 
dike extends, via Oak Bluffs, to Katama. 

As we leave Vineyard Haven, and the steamer rounds the "East 
Chop," we approach the locality of summer life for citizens from our 
large towns. Cottages and villas are scattered over the hillsides, which 
increase in number and beauty until w,e reach Oak Bluffs, where we 
have a rui-al city spread out before us, from which, standing in bold re- 
lief, rises a colossal structure surrounded by broad verandas, and sur- 
mounted by towering cupolas, — The Sea View House, — with the 
steamboat-landing directly in front. 

The " Sea View"' is the prominent feature of the town, which lies 
beyond. On either side, overlooking the water, and extending for thou- 
sands of feet, is a broad plank promenade, with seats the entire length. 




RIDING OUT THE STORM. 



POPULAR KESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



HI 



At the right is a building one thousand feet long by eighteen feet wide, 
built into the bluff, protected by a heavy bulkhead. This is used for 
amusements. The side is of glass, and opens to the sea. In front is a 
broad promenade, provided with seats. The roof is flat, covered with 
concrete, and is also used for a walk, over which pavilions are placed at 
intervals, the whole overlooked by beautiful cottages. At the left of the 
hotel are hundreds of bathing-houses, with pavilions and seats for spec- 
tators. Steamboats and yachts crowd the landing, while the wharves, 
the verandas, the balconies and bluffs, are filled with the life and gayety 
of the scene. Over sixty-nine thousand guests visited this' renowned 
resort during the season of 1 874. 




SEA VIEW HOUSE. 
Oak Bluffs, Martha's Vineyard. 

If the boat remains at the landing long enough to allow it, a visit to 
the " Sea View " will amply repay the trouble. From the wharf, the 
entrance is made through an ornamental gate-house, which is devoted to 
offices. In the tower at the right is the baggage-room, with a general 
railway ticket-office over it. At the left is the wharfinger's office, over 
which is the office of the Oak Bluffs Company. The basement of the 
hotel is approached by a private entrance from the wharf, by which the 
baggage and stores are taken, and, by the steam elevator, raised to any 
part of the house. 

Wide passage-ways extend through the basement, cutting each other at 
right angles. At the left of the entrance, opening to the sea, are the 
barber's shop, bath-rooms, and billiard-hall, beyond which is the engineer's 



112 POPULAK RESORTS, AND HOW TO KKACH THKM. 

and boiler room. &c. On the right are store-rooms, ice-house, chill-room, 
laundry, bakery, and servants' rooms. The house and promenades are 
lighted by Walworth's solar gas generator, with gas manufactured in an 
xmderground building, distant from the hotel. 

The Sea View House is approached by a broad flight of steps, leading 
to a capacious veranda at the east end, twentj'-six feet in width. This 
is an important architectural feature of the house. It is three stories 
high, giving beauty to the structure, and comfort and pleasure to the 
guests. It commands a full view of Vineyard Sound, the great "high- 
way of commerce." Ninety -five thousand vessels are reported to have 
passed Gay Head Light in 1872. The ladies' reception-room is at the 
right of the entrance, with hat and coat and wash rooms, and stairway 
beyond. On the left is the gentlemen's reception-room, elevator, and 
office. Opposite the main entrance, the doors open to the dining-hall, 
which occupies the entire width of the building, with long windows open- 
ing to wide verandas on either side. The private dining-rooms are beyond. 
Broad stairways and the elevator lead to the stories above. 

The public parlor, on the second floor, is pleasantly located across the 
southern end of the building, commanding, from its windows and bal- 
conies, an extended view in three directions. On either side of the pas- 
sage are private parlors and sleeping-rooms ; and the two stoi'ies above 
are similarly arranged, with walks the entire length, affording excellent 
ventilation. Balconies lead from every story. A tank of two thousand 
gallons capacity,- placed under the roof, supplies the water for the 
house. 

The peak of the south tower has three fine sleeping-rooms. The north 
tower has two, with a passage-way leading to the lookout-room above, 
from the four windows of which a most extensive marine and landscape 
view can be had. 

The chapel is a beautiful structure, of ornamental design, and seats 
eight hundred and twenty-two persons. It stands on a rounded knoll, 
surrounded by a grove of oak. It is octagonal in form, Avith four doors, 
leading from opposite angles, and a gallery entrance on the side, in front 
of which stands the pulpit, with ante-rooms on either side. The seats on 
the floor and in the gallery occupy seven sections of an octagon, facing 
to a common centre. The inside is not plastered ; but the painted tri- 
colored walls and ceiling, relieved by the ornamented framework, produce 
a singular and beautiful effect. The building is not confined to any 
pai'ticular denomination ; bxat any stockholder can secure the pulpit for a 
friend on any unengaged day. 

The free and harmonious use of a building so beautiful lends a charm 
to the exercises, and, furnishing as it does a regular place of worship, 
contributes largely to the popularity of the place. 



POPULAK RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



113 



Circuit Avenue commences at the wharf, and extends through and 
around the town. It has a jjaved drive-way, with concrete sidewalks. 
Other important streets are paved with concrete. The town is emphati- 
cally a Cottage City. Within an area of one mile stand six hundred and 
ninety-one cottages. Among the hundreds of beautiful houses, of 
exquisite architecture, scarcely two can be found alike. 




SEASIDE COTTAGE OF HON 



CARPENTER. 



Oak Bluffs is a delightful place, frequented by persons of culture and 
taste, which can only be partially described in this article, but will well 
repay a visit from the pleasure-seeker, Katama, on the eastern point of 
the island, is now attracting attention. 

The scenery at Katama was so beautiful, the fishing and shooting so 
imusually fine, that in 1872 a few gentlemen of means determined to 
erect a hotel there, and secure a building site for others who, like them- 
selves, should be desirous of leaving the heated streets of a town for a 
quiet cottage life by the seaside. The result was beyond the expecta- 
tions of the most sanguine ; and forty-three persons came forward the 
first season, and secured lots, with the agreement to build cottages on 
them. The place has been artistically surveyed by a landscape-gardener, 
streets and avenues graded, and parks laid out. Summer residences are 
being built; and a town is springing uj) as if by magic. 



114 



POPULAB RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



Several of the managers of this enterprise are the same who made Oak 
Bluffs a success ; the same whose lots, placed in the market five years ago 
at 1100 each, have since sold for $1,600 ; the same who, in six years, from 
a single house, have built " The Cottage City of America," with 
paved and gas-lit streets, — in a word, a complete town, clothed with 
taste, comfort, and picturesque beauty. And now the same energy and 
perseverance which succeeded at Oak Bluffs promise success at Katama. 

It is a short but pleasant sail across the bay from Oak Bluffs to the 
village of Edgartown, the spires of which can be seen in the south-east. 
This place was once a town of some enterprise ; but, with the decline of 
the whale fishery, the young men have generally sought employment else- 
where. From Edgartown we enter Katama Bay, a beautiful sheet of water, 
some five miles long. It is of itself an excellent harbor, affording not 
only good anchorage, but is well protected from the winds, making it a 
favorable resort for yachting and fishing chilis. On entering the bay, 
" Mattakeset Lodge," the model hotel of Kr.;.' ma, becomes the absorb- 
ing object of attention. 




MATTAKESET LODGE. 

Katama, Martha's Vineyard. 

The house stands on a commanding bluff, at the opposite end of the 
harbor, its symmetrical towers cutting boldly against the southern 
sky. As you near the landing, immediately below the hotel, its peculiar 
structure and singular location become apparent. The surface at 
Katama is an extended table-land, broken by gentle undulations, but 
at the coast falling abruptly to the beach below. In a single instance, by 
some natural agency, a pathway has been grooved through the bluff to 



POPULAB EESOKTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 115 

the water's edge, forming an admirable passage, of easy grade, from the 
beach to the plain above. Here a wharf has been built; and on the blutf, 
spanning the ravine, stands the hotel, under which the drive-way passes 
to the town beyond. 

"Mattakeset Lodge" has been constructed to afford the mnximum 
amount of comfort and pleasure. Numerous balconies and broad veran- 
das, commanding a complete view of the landing and harbor beyond, 
surround the house ; but the peculiar and favorite feature is an open gal- 
lery, which occupies the entire upper story. In the evening this is bril- 
liantly lighted by gas, and is entirely devoted to promenading and dancing. 




YACHTING. 

It is, indeed, a novel feature. Here, in the hottest summer's day, a cool- 
ing breeze is always felt, and the roar of the breakers on the south side 
of the island, scarcely a mile away, fills the air. The whitened foam, as 
the waves dash upon the beaches, which stretch away like a ribbon in 
the distance, is always an interesting object of contemplation. From 
this elevation, high above the surrounding water, securely shielded from 
the sun's scoi'ching rays, hundx-eds of whitened sail can be seen. 

The admirable facilities for yachting, and the abundance of fish and 
birds in this vicinity, have induced the proprietors to make special ar- 
rangements for the convenience of sportsmen ; while others, whose taste 



1 

116 POPUIiAK RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

for these amusements commences after the game has passed the culinary 
department, will have reason to be equally well pleased. Fishing parties 
from Oak Bluffs have come to be daily affairs. 

Few localities on the coast possess better facilities for fishing than 
Katama, — deep-sea fishing off Cape Pogue for cod, haddock, hake, whit- 
ing, pollock, and halibut ; exciting sport in sailing or trolling for blue 
fish, striped bass, and Spanish mackerel ; still fishing in the bay, within 
a gun-shot of the house, for scup, tautog, sea-bass, and sea-perch. But 
the sport in which Katama leads is in the serving of her unrivalled 
Clam-hakes ; and, for the convenience of guests, a grand pavilion has been 
erected for their shelter. 



THE MIGHTY CLAM-BAKE. 

Tradition gives color to the claim, that the great genius of Mattakeset, 
the famous and powerful Indian chief of the primitive days, devised the 
art of preparing the delicious and now world-renowned " clam-bake." 
Charles Lamb relates the remarkable way in which "roast pig" was re- 
vealed to the "heathen Chinee." Doubtless the claim set up for Mat- 
takeset is quite as authentic as Lamb's bit of tradition ; but it is not as 
full in particulars. Clams of the very finest variety abound in the 
region around Mattakeset Lodge; and the formula for composing and 
compounding a clam-bake, in the style of a fine art, is naturally found 
here. For general satisfaction, we now describe the process : — 

First, a huge saucer-like space is dug in the sand or ground, and is 
well paved over with stones. This may be called the bake-oven. To 
prepare the grand bake, the " oven *' is filled with fuel, intermingled with 
goodly sized stones. This is fired (the combustible part) : and after the 
stone portions are all thoroughly heated the coals are raked off. .The 
" oven " is now ready. First, a layer of rock-weed is equally spread 
over the heated surface; next, from fifteen to twenty-five bushels of 
clams are thrown in, and then covered with another layer of rock- 
weed ; and over that sea-weed is thickly placed. The heat of the oven 
is sufficient to raise a great cloud of steam from the water of the clams 
and the weeds ; and in about half an hour, the capacious mound of 
savory bivalves is ready to be borne to the feast-board. Here, drawn but- 
ter, salt, pepper, and vinegar, or any of the more pungent relishes of the 
table, served in convenient dishes, are used to add zest to this notable and 
popular food. The instruments used to dislodge the clam from the 
shell, decapitate it, and submit it to the teeth, are simply fingers. Ex- 
perts at this kind of feed are wonderfully dexterous in the work, and 
raise huge piles of shells around them in brief time. This is a clam- 
bake simple. But, to have a compound bake of appetizing temptations 



POPULAR BESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



117 



most excelling, as frequently served by mine host of "Mattakeset 
Lodge," lobsters, green corn, fresh fish, chickens, &c., are to be placed 
among the clams at the outset. With these additions, the rudely 
improvised feast becomes one not to be sui'passed for lusciousness by 
the skill of a regiment of French cooks. In the opinion of many, the 
transcendent glory of Mattakeset Lodge lies in its unrivalled clam- 
bakes. 

COMMUNICATIONS. 

Katama possesses admirable facilities for communication by steamers, 
and the sail is delightful. A new and beautiful steam-yacht, of un- 
rivalled speed, connects with steamers from Woods Hole and New 
Bedford, at Oak Bluffs ; or you can go by rail, a new and elegantly 
equipped narrow-gauge road having been built from Oak Bluffs to 
Katama. And the citizens of Edgartown, alive to the requirements of 
the public, have laid out and constructed a splendid drive-way of twelve 
miles, extending from Katama to Vineyard Haven, via Edgai-town and 
Oak Bluffs. Steamers will run daily. In a word, every thing which 
experience can dictate is being done to make this a popular summer 
resort, and a pleasant seaside retreat. 




THE SEA-VIEW BOULEVARD. 



Tins fine drive-way, commencing at Katama, extends twelve miles along 
the coast to Vineyard Haven. It has been constructed by the citizens of 
Edgartown, to meet the increasing wants of visitors. From Katama to 
Edgartown it continues along the table-land to and through the village. 
A couple of miles beyond, it leads down to the sea, approaching it between 
two smaller bodies of water, which lay contiguous to and parallel with 



118 POPULAE RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

the ocean. That upon the right, and nearer Edgartown, is known as Crys- 
tal Lake, — a beautiful pond, one mile in diameter. On the left we pass 
the foot of San-cha-can-tack-et Lake, which for miles is only separated 
from the sea on our right by a natural dike, evidently thrown up by some 
mighty convulsion, or by the action of the waves, beyond the present 
history of this region. The road-way has been built along this dike, 
which in places is so narrow that a stone could be tossed into the water 
on either side. This is a delightful drive ; and, although of recent con- 
struction, it has attained a great popularity, affording as it does, to j^ersons 
having objections to boating, the rare opportunity of securing an equally 
refreshing sea-breeze while riding in a carriage. Nor is this all. Midway 
between Edgartown and Oak Bluffs the dike has been cut, by the action 
of the waters, through which, with the tide, the current ebbs and flows. 

This channel has been spanned by a bridge four hundred and fifty feet 
long, affording a rare opportunity for fishing ; not merely small, worth- 
less varieties, but blue-fish, bass, flounders, and others of large size, are 
taken in abundance. This was only needed to secure for ladies and chil- 
dren, or persons averse to boating, the full advantages of tlie exhilarating 
sport of fishing, shorn of the disagreeable annoyances of sea-sickness. 
The Sea- View House, at Oak Bluffs, is but three miles distant, and in 
full view from the bridge, which is one of its most favorite resorts. 
Indeed, the Sea- View Boulevard is one of the inost enjoyable features of 
this popular watering-place. 

San-cha-can-tack-et Lake is three miles long, and from one to two wide, 
and is a favorite boating and sailing locality. Cultivated farms rise to a 
wooded crest on the opposite shores. 

The drive from the bridge to Oak Bluffs is along an undulating sur- 
face, which will soon undoubtedly be filled witji cottages. It affords a 
fine variety of landscape views, with occasional glimpses of the town 
beyond, — the Sea- View House always forming the most imposing fea- 
ture. Island Lake nestles quietly by the wayside, with a miniature island 
set like an emerald iu its centre. 

STRANGERS IN BOSTON. 

Boston is well supplied with hotels, and, like every city, with cheap 
and expensive ones ; but the Crawford House, which is under the same 
management as Mattakeset Lodge, will be found one of the most 
desirable for strangers. It is centrally located, in ScoUay's Square, from 
which point all the city and Metropolitan horse-cars start. It is con- 
venient to all the depots, and is a first-class house in every respect. It is 
kept on the European plan, with rooms from ^1 to |4 per day ; and with 
four dining-halls the proprietor is able to satisfy his guests in style or 
price. I have no doubt strangers will find this a desirable home while in 
Boston and vicinity. 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 119 

PLEASURE ROUTE No. 10. 

New York, Boston, and Vicinity to the Mountains and 
Springs of Vermont, Lake Champlain, Montreal, and 
Quebec, Thousand Islands, &c. 

CEXTRAL VERMONT RAILROAD. 

The southern termini of the great system of railroads known as the 
" Central Vermont " are Miller's Falls, Mass., where connection is made 
with the New London Northern Railroad ; also at Chatham Fom* 
Corners, N.Y., connecting with the Harlem, Boston and Albany, and 
Hudson Railroads. It is approached from Boston and the east via 
Boston, Lowell, and Nashua, Concord, and Northern Railroads to White 
River Junction ; and by the Fitchburg and Cheshire Railroads to Bel- 
lows Falls, and by the Boston and Albany Railroad to Chatham Four 
Corners. From these several termini the various routes and branches 
permeate the entire State of Vermont, reaching into New York and the 
Province of Quebec. At St. Johns, Canada, the noi-thern terminus, 
twenty-two miles from Montreal, connection is made with the " Grand 
Trunk," and again at Ogdensburg, N.Y., the western terminus. At this 
point also the St. Lawrence and Lake steamers touch. 

A description of the route from Boston to White River Jimction will 
be found in Illustrated Pleasure Route No. 1, as far as Concord, N.H., 
where the Northern Railroad commences. The first noted point of 
interest beyond Concord is Newfound Lake, located about two miles 
north from the quiet and sequestered village of Bristol, N.H., on a 
branch of the Northern Railroad. This delightful sheet of water, seven 
miles long by three wide, is surrounded by mountains, which from every 
direction are mirrored on its quiet surface. Sugar-Loaf Mountain rises 
in the west, and Mount Crosby in the east. The Newfound and 
Pemigewasset Rivers unite near here, and add their attractions. 

Mount Kearsarge, N.H. (2,461 feet high), is four miles from 
Potter Place Station, on the Northern Railroad, reached by stage. This 
mountain is not unfrequently confounded with another of similar name, 
Kiarsarye (see North Conway), which, in an air line, is sixty miles 
distant in a north-easterly direction. Mount Kearsarge is a place of 
considerable repute as a summer resort. Its isolated position affords a 
magnificent view of the surrounding country ; the landscape is dotted 
by beautiful lakes ; and far in the northern horizon are seen the Fran- 
conia and White Mountains with the Green Mountains of Vermont at 
the left. Visitors will find comfortable quarters at the Winslow House, 
which is located half way up the mountain side. 

The steam frigate " Kearsarge " was named for this mountain. 



120 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

VERMONT. 

We strike the Central Vermont Railroad at "White River Junc- 
tion, a railway centre of importance. Considerable stop is made at 
this station, to allow passengers time for refreshment at the admirable 
restaurant in the depot. 

After New Hampshire, the Green Mountains of Vermont rival in 
popularity those of any other of the New-England States ; and of these 
Mount Mansfield (4,348 feet high), the crowning peak, is the most 
famed. This is an objective point from Sloive, one of the most fashion- 
able resorts in the State, which, when better known by illustrated 
descrij)tion, is certain of liberal jaatronage. Stowe is reached by the 
Central Vermont Railroad. From this place the excursion to Mount 
Mansfield (five miles) is made by carriage ; the visitor's path is shaded by 
a hardy grove, but the trees gradually decrease in size. To meet the 
demands of travel, a hotel, the Summit House, has been erected near 
the top ; which is largely patronized by those who would enjoy a sunrise 
from the summit. Mount jNIansfield is the central peak of several 
mountains, each a point of interest to visitors. 

Sterling Mountain (3,500 feet high), separated from Mount Mans- 
field by a gorge known as Smuggler's Notch, a wild, romantic pass which 
derived its name from incidents in the past history of the region. The 
drive from Stowe, nine miles, is picturesque and pleasant. The most 
impressive view of Smuggler's Notch is from Mount JNIansfield. Here 
also is a profile rock called " The Old Man," curious in itself, yet lacking 
the stern grandeur of its namesake in the Franconia Mountains. 

Bolton Falls, near Ridley's Station, form one of the interesting fea- 
tures of that favorite region for tourists, of which Mount Mansfield is the 
towering sentinel. More than four thousand feet below Mansfield's crest 
is a deep rugged ravine, overhung by frowning rocks, screened by foliage, 
and ornamented by mosses, lichens, and clinging vines. Here almost 
unseen this wild mountain stream boils and foams. 

Camel's Hump (4,083 feet in altitude) is but little below Mans- 
field, and is in the same neighborhood. It is also reached by the 
Central Vermont Railroad to Ridley's Station, thence by carriage six 
miles, to the base of the mountain. From this point, a carriage-road 
has been built three miles. A good pedestrian can readily inake the 
remainder ; but, for those who desire, saddle-horses are to be had. A 
small summer-house near the summit furnishes refreshments, and serves 
for protection in case of storms. The view is fine. 



POPtJI-AB RESORTS, AND HOW TO BEACH THKM. 121 

Sheldon Springs have long been famous for the excellence of their 
waters, efficacious for rheumatism, erysipelas, &c. The scenery in the 
neighborhood also possesses many other attractive features. 

The Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad, leading from Portland past 
Sebago Lake, through the White Mountain Notch, will cross the Missis- 
quoi Valley Railroad at Sheldon. 

Highgate Springs are located immediately at the station of that 
name, and form the central group of a number of medicinal springs, many 
of which have become noted for the virtue of their waters, and when bet- 
ter known will rank higher as fashionable resorts. Among those within 
a few-miles' radius can be named Alburgh Springs, Missisquoi Sprwfjs, Cham- 
plnin Springs, Sheldon Springs, and Vermont Spt-ings. Highgate Springs con- 
tain chloride of sodium, carbonate of soda, and sulphate of soda. The 
proximity of Missisquoi Bag which lies at the east, and Highgate Falls 
only two or three miles distant, add to the attractions of this region. 

Champlain Springs and Highgate Falls are rival attractions at 
the village of the latter name. The waters of the springs are recom- 
mended for cancer, dyspepsia, and skin-diseases generally. 

Alburgh Springs are also reached by the Central Vermont Rail- 
road, and have won considerable attention. They are located north 
from Lake Champlain, and on the direct route from the "springs 
region " of Vermont to the Thousand Islands, Alexandria Bay, N.Y. 

If we make an approach to Vermont by the Fitchburg Railroad, we can 
visit "Wachusett Mountain of Princeton. Mass., having an altitude of 
2,480 feet, which is very favorably known to tourists. It is a crowning 
eminence second only to Greglock in altitude, rising from an undulating 
yet highly cultivated country, and is located midway between Massa- 
chusetts Bay and the Connecticut River. It was occupied by Govern- 
ment officers on the coast survey, and forms a distinctive landmark for 
mariners approaching the coast. It has long been a popular resort; 
even the red men are said to have made it a rendezvous. Its beauties are 
enhanced by an attractive lake, Wachusetl, which nestles under its 
shadow. The elevated situation of the village of Princeton, the jiure 
water with which it is supplied, its invigorating atmosphere, and 
pleasing surroundings, would of themselves prove attractions sufficient 
to popularize the place with pleasure-seekers. To these are added the 
charms of Lake Wachusett, and Wachusett ]\Iountain; the former noted 
for the purity of its waters, the latter for the boldness and rich variety 
of its landscape. 



.122 POPULAR KESOKTS, ASTB HOW TO REACH THEM. 

If the tourist has a desire to climb another of New Hampshire's 
famous mountains, this will be found a convenient time to visit Mount 
Monadnock, in the town of Jaffrey, which has an altitude of 3,450 
feet. (Vermont also has a mountain of the same name located near the 
little village of Colebrook.) This mountain is known as the Grand 
Monadnock, and is in the extreme southern section of the State. Being 
the highest elevation in the vicinity, it is a distinctive feature in the 
landscape. The view from this mountain is magnificent, and differs 
from that of any other in the vicinity. This elevation seems the con- 
necting link between the more undulating surface of Massachusetts, and 
the towering highlands of New Hampshire. In the east the historic 
shaft on Bunker Hill indicates the location of Boston. In the south- 
west, Wachusett, Holyoke, and Mount Tom form the conspicuous 
objects in the scenery; the green hiUs of Vermont become bluQ in 
the western horizon. In every direction, like gems set among the hills^ 
sparkle the waters of picturesque lakes, the queen of which, Contoocook, 
with its charming little steamer, lies half enveloped in the shades of 
the overhanging mountain. From the north, however, the landscape 
draws its grandeur. Rising one above another are seen all the important 
peaks of this mountainous State. 

A mineral spring in the vicinity adds to the attraction of Monadnock. ■ 

Contoocook Lake, set like a gem among the hills, as before men- 
tioned, nestles under the shadow of the grand old Monadnock. It is a 
delightful retreat for the pleasure-loving guests of the summer hotel 
clinging to a shelf on the mountain-side. A small steamer plies on its 
waters. Go to Jaffrey, N.H., via Monadnock Railroad. 

Bellows Palls, Vt. — Bellows Falls, or, as might more properly be 
said, cataract, forms an object worthy the attention of the sight-seer. It 
consists of a channel fifty feet in width, cut far down into the solid rock, 
through which the waters of the Connecticut River rush. A descent of 
fifty feet is made during the passage over which the river tumbles and 
foams. The scenery in the vicinity is fine, both in richness and variety. 
Bellows Falls may be reached by any of the railroad lines which strike 
the Connecticut River above or below. At this point connection is 
again made with the Central Vermont Railroad. 

Black River Falls, Springfield, are little more than a wild cascade 
where the stream has worn a curious fantastic channel through the 
slate formation. In a descent of six hundred feet the river falls one 
hundred and ten feet, fifty of which is by a single leap. Reached by the 
Central Vermont and Cheshire Railroads. 



POPULAR KESOllTS, AND HOW TO KEACH TUEM. 123 

The Hoosac Tunnel is so far completed that trains for merchandise 
passed through it for the first time on the date of writing this article. 
By this great engineering success the Hoosac Mountain has been pierced, 
forming a direct passage from the Atlantic seaboard to the west. Ar- 
rangements for tourists are not yet completed, but this must eventually 
become one of the attractive features of an already interesting region. 
Go by the Vermont and Massachusetts Railroad from the east, or Harlem 
Extension from New York. 

If our approach to Vermont is by the Boston and Albany Railroad we 
shall pass near Mount Holyoke, a place long and favorably known 
as a popular resort. Although it has an altitude of only 1,120 feet, the 
prospect from it is remarkably fine. 

Many other mountains are higher, yet few afford more interesting- 
views. It has long been visited as a summer resort. As early as 1821 
a hotel was erected on its summit, the same site now occupied by the 
famous Prospect House. It is ascended, partly by carriage, and partly 
by railway. Three hundred and sixty-five feet of the steepest portion is 
overcome by an incline six hundred feet, with cars drawn up by station- 
ary engine. Over twenty thousand visitors are annually lifted to this 
commanding spot. 

The mountain is but three miles from the thriving village of North- 
ampton, with a good carriage-road. Visitors can also go by horse-cars 
to the mountain railway. Northampton is reached by the Connecticut 
River, and New Haven and Northampton Railroads. 

Mount Tom (1,320 feet high), is also in this neighborhood, and is 
visited from Northampton (five miles). It commands a more extended 
view than Moimt Holyoke, but from the difficulty of ascent it has never 
gained the same popularity. 

Our next point of interest as we move westward is the Berkshire 
Hills, whose queen is the charming village of Pittsfield, Mass. One of 
the chief attractions is Lake Ashley, a quiet lakelet set on the 
summit of Mount Washim/ton (1,800 feet high), near the village of Pitts- 
field. Its pure limpid waters supply the town. 

Lake Onota, Pontoosuc Lake, Berry Pond (in Hancock), 
Melville Lake, or the Lily Bowl, Lulu Cascade, Silver Lake, and 
Sylvan Lake are also among the interesting attractions near Pittsfield, 
which is really one of the most delightful homes of the hill region of 
Massachusetts. It is reached by both the Boston and Albany, and Housa- 
tonic Railroads. Before continuing to Vermont, the tourist should not. 
fail to visit Greylock, the crowning peak of the Berkshire Mountains. 



124 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

Oreylock is partially cleared on its summit, and commands a view 
pleasantly interspersed with every variety of landscape. Near by are the 
lower ranges of the Berkshire Hills, generally wooded to the crest ; be- 
yond are the hills and valleys of an undulating country, dotted with farm- 
houses, lakes, ponds, and villages, which are agi'eeably intermingled. 
Above and beyond stretching far into the blue distance may be seen 
the towering form of Grand Monadnock. Turning with the sun. 
Mount Wachusett, in the eastern section of the State, forms a notable 
feature. Holyoke and Tom are seen in the south-east, and the Catskills 
in the south-west. There are several paths by which the top of Greylock 
is reached. The ascent is somewhat tedious, but the cheering prospect 
repays the effort. Go via Boston and Albany Railroad. 

New Lebanon Springs are reached by rail on the Harlem Exten^ 
sion Railroad. Here may be found a fine summer house, which is well 
patronized during the season. The medicinal qualities of the waters 
are highly recommended, having a temperature at 73° ; the flow is large, 
and the fame of this spring is increasing. The surroundings are pleasant, 
walks good, and drives fine. The Shaker village is two miles distant. 

Mount Equinox (3,706 feet high) is one of the popular resorts 
of Manchester, Vt., from which A'illage a fine carriage-road has been 
constructed to the house on the summit. Of all the charming drives, 
for which the environs of Manchester are famed, that to Mount Equinox 
is the most desirable. The landscape view is extensive and exceedingly 
interesting ; reaching from the far-ofE Monadnock in the east, the 
Catskills in the west, to all the prominent Green Mountain peaks in the 
north. Manchester, which is reached by the Harlem Extension Rail- 
road, contains many other objects of attraction for tourists, lis fine 
hotels, the " Equinox " and " Taconic," are worthy of patronage. The 
village j)ossesses many picturesque charms which make it popular with 
visitors. Its marble walks shaded by beautiful trees give the place a 
quiet air of elegance. 

Clarendon Springs are located about six miles from Rutland, and 
not only form a delightful and much frequented resort for the citizens 
of that prosperous town, but are of themselves fashionable attractions. 

Killington Peak, having an altitude of 8,924 feet, is best visited 
from Rutland, which is reached by the Central Vermont, Rensselaer 
and Saratoga, and Harlem Extension Railroads. The excursion is made 
by carriage seven miles. The ascent requires the usual amount of hard 
climbing ; but the view from the summit is fine. 



POPULAB BESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 125 

St. Catherine Lake, Poultney, is the central feature of many 
interesting points in tliat region. It is located six miles from the village 
by a pleasant drive. The lake is about five miles long. On a project- 
ing promontory at the lower end stands St. Catherine's Hotel, a 
summer house pleasantly situated. The St. Catherine, Haystack, and 
Moosekorn, mountains to whose lofty peaks pilgrimages are often made, 
look down upon its quiet waters. Lake Bomaseen near by, although 
less in magnitude, is a place of much attraction. Carter's Falls, the 
Bowl, the Gor(/e, and Middletown Springs are also objects of interest 
to visitors. Rensselaer and Saratoga Railroad. 

The Bread-Loaf Mountain it is not proposed to describe, nor the 
Bread-Loaf Inn where visitors rest, and are at home; but the quaint 
name is given to catch the fancy of tourists who would leave the beaten 
tracks of travel for a rustic jaunt among the emerald mountains of 
Vermont, — a real stage-coach ride of the olden time, up hills that are 
long and steej:), past gorges that are rugged and deep, for a quiet rest 
beyond. Leave the Central Vermont Railroad at Middlebury, and the 
stage will take you eleven miles to Ripton, and set you down at the 
Bread-loaf Inn. Good trout-fishing in the neighborhood. 

Lake Dunmore, Vt., derives its name from this historical incident. 
It is said, that, about the year 1770, Lord Dunmore visited this region, 
and, becoming enamoured of the beauties of this lake, waded into its 
crystal waters, and, pouring wine upon it, said, " Ever after this body of 
water shall be called Zfl^e i)iOT/nwre in honor of the Earl of Dunmore." 
Although this lake is but a half-dozen miles in length, its romantic 
situation, surrounded by high hills, the great depth and purity of its 
waters filled with gamey fish, and the many pleasant places in the 
vicinity, invest it with a rare interest to the guests of the Lake Dun- 
more House. Go to Salisbury, Vt., vid Vermont Central Railroad, thence 
four miles by stage. 



126 



POPTTLAlt KESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



ILLUSTRATED PLEASURE ROUTE No. 11. 

Boston to Providence, Stonington, New London, Shelter 
Island, New Haven, and New York City. 

SHORE LIXE RAILROAD. 




Engraved expressly for Bachelder's "Popular Resorts, and How to Reach Them. 
PROVIDENCE DEPOT, COLUMBUS AVENUE, BOSTON. 



POPTJLAE KESOETS, AND HOAV TO REACH THEM. 127 

The Shore Line Railroad is a consolidated route of several com- 
panies, — the Boston and Providence, 44 miles; Providence and Stoning- 
ton extending to New London, 62 miles ; New York, New Haven, and 
Hartford, 122 miles : making the whole distance by rail, 232 miles. 
Upon the whole, the Shore Line is not merely the shortest to New York 
from Boston : it is the pleasantest, and in that respect the best. 

"\Ve wish to make clear notes of this important route. Before speak- 
ing briefly of the chief places along the way, we specially impress upon 
the reader to secure a careful look over the newest and very latest 
wonder of Boston's century, — the famous castle, or depot, just finished 
by the Boston and Providence Raikoad Company in Boston. In 1834 
•this road "opened shop" in a depot of great elegance and imposing 
proportions — for that day; so pretentious, in fact, that it held up its 
respectable head in a comely and quite fashionable way, until January, 
1875, when its president, dh-ectors, and company sat down in the 
present regal edifice. Two stone tablets at the entrance symbolize the 
'whole significant story in a quiet way. The one records the names of 
i;he president, directors, superintendent, treasurer, and architects of 
1834; and the other gives the names of like officials, under whose 
authority and care the company replaced the new for the old, forty years 
afterwards. The building is an eloquent witness; but the tablets reveal 
the secret of its birth, — the brains and the loins. 

It would be out of place here to tell how many gas-burners, how 
many miles of piping, how many rooms and for what, and all those 
■minuter statistics which show the vastness of the whole work. The 
exterior, a perspective view of which is given, is an imposing, immense, 
and graceful composition, mainly of brick. Bricks are durable, but not 
^elegant nor artistic, except in their arrangement; and yet the outside 
^ives no conception of the splendor within. The approach and entrance 
is happy in its conception and elegant in execution. The impression made 
hy the grand hall for passengers is that of cathedral opulence and sump- 
tuousness. There is no gingerbread effort at effect ; but there is a 
profound sense of massive grace, of princely cost and lavishment, and of 
architectural refinement, which is the type of adaptation to aU time. 

A building more than the seventh of a mile in extent must arrest 
contemplation ; but to stand in a hall rich in tasteful outlines beyond 
power of words to fairly describe, expanded to one hundred and eighty 
feet, forty-four wide, and eighty feet to the ceiling, is a new thing under 
depot suns. Half a dozen country stations with all their pine devices, 
in wriggling sinuosities and affected grace, could be set in this immense 
case, and have comfortable elbow-room besides. One of the perfections 
of good taste in this structure is the space allotted for every room, not 
iorgetting the humble and the ignoble. 



128 POPUIiAB RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

Not only every want and demand of the public, but every arm of the 
working force, is j)royided for in the same sumptuous and luxm-ious 
manner, even to baths for the conductors. In fact, the new depot of the 
Boston and Providence Road is a marvel of beauty, utUity, and modern 
progress. Others cover more earth-space, but this is the depot for the 
million. Its influence is not lost in its immediate atmosphere. Not only 
wiU every engineer, every conductor, every employee, feel a sort of proud 
identity with this palatial property; but, better still, the thousands who 
travel the road wiU feel the exulting and flattering consciousness, that all 
this unstinted bountifulness was intended for " us." It is " our " new 
depot to them; and the idea is full of shekels. " There are miUious in it. " 

On the route by the Shore Line to New York, from Boston, objects of 
rare interest continually occur ; as, indeed, they must in a region so alive 
with people and their industries. All along the course to Providence, 
thriving towns and pretty villages are found, with the gently rolling 
intervals of country farms and cottages. The cheerful co-operation of the 
railroad company in advancing facilities and encouraging all objects of 
enterprise has stimulated a healthful suburban growth. The city of 
Providence is of growing renown, as the focus of an immense smnmer 
travel, en route for Newport and the multitude of summer resorts, located 
upon the delightful shores of Narraganset Bay. The little thread of 
water, which runs from the bay up to Providence, is constantly enlivened 
by magnificent excm'sion steamers, puffy little "tugs," and graceful 
pleasure-boats, in " the season." Fresh breezes and fresh clams are the 
staple joys of all who go to the famous resort of Rocky Point. The 
city is a very pleasant place with numerous attractive local curiosities, 
and suburban drives. It is of goodly size, about a himdred thousand 
inhabitants. At Kingston tourists leave by stage for Narraganset 
Pier, a summer watering-place of growing popularity. Of its twenty 
hotels, all are well patronized in summer. It should be better known. 

♦■ 

Stonington is a remarkably neat, pretty, and solemn place. It is a 
favorite resort in the summer for a select class, and has an excellent and 
well-kept hotel. "Watch Hill, but three miles across the bay from 
Stonington, is a delightful seaside location, being directly upon the 
coast, and possessing all the characteristics peculiar to the ocean's mar- 
gin. It is readily reached and largely visited from Stonington. 

Stonington is also important as the eastern terminus of the Steamboat 
Line from New York, a description of which supplements this article. At 
this point the route strikes Long Island Sound, which it follows closely, 
by which the tourist is cheered by many fine marine views, and invigor- 
ated by cool salt-water breezes. 



130 POPULAK RK SORTS, AND HOW TO RKACH THKM. 

New London is another conspicuous and historic place, following 
Stoiiington, crossing the Thames River by ferry. A few days' tarry at 
the Pequot Home, at the mouth of the river, will incline the guest to 
repeat his visit. This is a first-class modern hotel, and is chiefly occu- 
pied by wealthy New York families in " the season." 

Among the notable sights is Fort Trumbull, one of our good Undo 
Samuel's peculiar sea-coast, burglar-proof safes, in which he keeps his 
" mad " stored up. It looks as though it was a very solemn and peace- 
able place, however ; but looks are deceptive, you know. 

The temptations to visit Neptune's domain are unusually great, and 
afford cheery sails and " lots " of plunder. This is the point from which 
to leave for Shelter Idand Park, located on Shelter Island, near Green- 
port, L.I., across the Long Island Sound, directly opposite from New 
Loudon, from which place a steamer runs regularly. 

New Haven is reached through quietly diversified, but pleasant land- 
scapes. The city itself is justly inclined to be a whit aristocratic, as it 
contains Yale College. It is called " The City of Elms," and holds many 
valuable and agreeable objects for the curious. It has a sweet, pictur- 
esque fringe of country scene, and will repay the time of a few days' 
tarry ; for which good hotel accommodations will be found. Fine 
steamei-s rmi from New Haven to New York twice daily, and connect ■ 
with other points also. There aire steamers likewise from Bridgeport to 
New York. This is an enterprising, thrifty place beyond New Haven. 

Pursuing the route, there are entered and passed successively South- 
port, Westport, Noi-walk, Darien, Noraton, Stamford, Greenwich, Port 
Chester, New Rochelle, and other places numerous but of less note. 
The journey ends in the far-famed Grand Central Depot, corner of 
Fourth Avenue and Forty-Second Street, in the great city and pande- 
moniimi of New York. This renowned depot, the centre of an amount 
of travel almost defyuig computation, we present in picture form ; and 
it is a worthy close of a trip commenced from the new Boston and 
Providence Depot. 

The peculiar advantage this route affords to Western travellers lies in 
the fact that the western trains of the New York Central and Hudson 
River Railroad also have their termination in the Grand Central; so 
that no time is lost, nor inconvenience felt, by change of cars. Still 
further liberality is found by Southern travellers, that their transfer is by 
coach and free of charge, if they have procm-ed through tickets, — a fact 
of which the knowing ones will take heed. The Fourth Avenue horse- 
cars start from this depot, by which, with connecting roads, tourists may 
visit any portion of the city. The system of baggage delivery prevailing 
here is too well understood to require description. 



POPULAR KESORTS, AND ITOAV TO JJKACU THK^r. 



131 



EXCURSION THROUGH LONG ISLAND SOUND, 

BY THE STONIXGTOX LINE. 

Nothing conduces so much to the pleasure of travel as a feelinjy of 
security. Whether flashing through the valleys of a beautiful landscape, 
around the hills, along the streams, or across the broad prairies ; 
whether skimming the waters of some placid lake, stemming the current 
of a mighty river, or ploughing old "ocean's billows," — the pleasure of the 
excursion will be in direct ratio to the confidence of the excursionist in 
the character and reliability of the route. In this particular The Ston- 
INGTON Steamboat Line stands at the head of steam travel in America. 




These boats possess the advantage of having been substantially built for 
outside service. They lay low in the water, presenting less sui'face to 
the winds, and in storms ride the waves " like a thing of life." They 
are unsurpassed for speed, comfort, and safety ; and, whatever the state 
of the weather, alwayx make the trip, and are sure of connections. 

The change from the busy whirl and heated streets of a crowded city 
to the open harbor, where the sea-breeze sweeps unobstructed from shore 
to shore, is a source of great relief ; and the sail from Xew York, through 
the harbor, up the East River, through Hell Gate, and down Long Island 
Sound, is one of the most delightful on the coast. The ferry-boats fly 



132 POPULAB KESOBTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM. 

hither and thither like things of life. The gayly-dressed ships, bearing 
the fruit and merchandise of foreign climes ; the forest of masts, witn 
their streaming pennants, which for miles line the wharves along which 
, we sail; the magnificent suburban residences and fine public buildings, 
with cultivated grounds, which adorn the bank s ; and the receding city 
clothed in the rich, Avarm glow of a beautiful sunset, — combine to make 
this sail one of the enjoyable episodes of a pleasant tour. This is the 
GREAT ixsiDE LixE, leaving NeAv York every afternoon (Sundays ex- 
cepted) from Pier 33, Xorth River, at 5, r.:\r., ii^ summer, and 4 in winter, 
and continuing to Boston via Stonington, entirely avoiding Point Judith, 
a dangerous promontory, against which, during storms, the waves dash 
with fearful violence, making the passage, if not always dangerous, at 
least unpleasant to persons unaccustomed to sea-life. 

The Providence Railroad, by which passengers from the boat con- 
tinue to Boston, is oiae of the best appointed in the country. Its Chair 
Cars are a great luxury, and add much to the comfort of tourists. 

THE STONINGTON LINE POSSESSES ANOTHER IMPORTANT ADVANTAGE. 

Should any detention of the cars, or the probability of a rough or 
foggy night on the Sound, render such a course desirable, passengers from 
Boston for New York can change cars before reaching the boat, and con- 
tinue on the Shore Line by rail, thus insuring Southern or Western 
connections in New York. 

The Stonington Line presents unrivalled claims in the seaworthy 
character of its boats, an advantage fully tested during the unprecedented 
cold winter of 1874-5. 

The " Stonington " and " Narragansett " were staunchly built for out- 
side service : they lie low in the water, and in storms ride the waves 
" like a thing of life." 

The " Rhode Island " is a splendid boat in model, architecture, and 
finish ; it is furnished magnificently, and is claimed to be the fastest 
boat on the Sound. The spacious dining-room on the upper deck, the 
elegant state-rooms, smoking-room, with abundant facilities for jsrome- 
nade both inside and out, are among the luxuries this boat affords. 

The Stonington Line is the direct route of approach from New York 
aud the South to the summer resorts of Stonington, Watch Hill, and Nar- 
raganseit Pier: the latter a place of growing popularity, is patronized 
largely by New Yoi'kers. Its isolated position is a disadvantage ; yet its 
twenty or more hotels are always well patronized in " the season." 

Passengers by this line reach Boston via the Boston and Providence 
Railroad in season for breakfast at the magnificent restaurant of the 
Providence Depot, before continuing by the morning eastern or northern 
trains. 



POPULAK RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 133 



MIDDLE STATES. 

New York City — the great heart of the nation, whose throbs 
vibrate along the rails and magnetic wires which ramify into the re- 
mote recesses of the country — will repay a visit from tourists. 

But before entering upon the wonderful surroundings, and " how to 
reach them," of that huge and renowned metropolis of a continent, it 
may as well be said, that it would be almost impossible to pass through 
it without travelling into a portion at least of Broadway, — the mighty 
artery through which surges the dense flood of life and activity of that 
vast Pandemonium of civilization. And to gaze upon the masses of 
vehicles of every kind, — stages, carts, drays, carriages, handcarts, run- 
ning and racing, men and women, dogs, and every possible animated 
and moving thing, — is a scene even more stirring and exhilarating 
than are Niagara Falls, or the panoramas of the grandest mountains. 
In fact, Broadway, in full activity, is " a sight," — and well worth a 
long journey to see, if one saw nothing else. Indeed, it is a bewilder- 
ing wonder ; and while a New-Yorker moves amid all the seeming 
perils and inexpressible confusion, — 

" Calm as a summer's morning," — 

the visitor from a moderate city, or quiet town, is all aglow with excite- 
ment over the strange scenes. By all means see Broadway once. 

As might be expected in a city so immense, amid industries and 
wealth so vast, stupendous works of various kinds are required and in 
constant development. Those already completed, in progress, and in 
contemplation, can hardly be enumerated. The great bridge across the 
East River, the tunnel beneath the North River, the gigantic rail- 
road that cuts under ground, the startling railroad that travels in the 
air, the Croton-water masonry, the Central Park, the Grand Boulevard, 
and numerous other marvels of progress and cost, show the expansive 
energies of a million people, bent on improvement and wealth. 

But New York is not a handsome city inside. Like all " huddles " 
of men in huge congregation, dinginess and squalor are set beside the 
brilHants of splendor and wealth. Every phase of human existence can 
be found in New York, — from the filth and brutality that would make 
a Hottentot blush, to the magnificence and luxury which might excite 
royal envy. Edifices, public and private, upon which money and skill 
have been unstintedly lavished, are numerous, of course; but the 
shabby, rickety, tumble-downety shanties are far more abundant. New 
York is in its full robust vigor, in fact ; but many portions of it have 
passed it, and have a sadly old and jaded general look. A large num- 
ber of pleasure routes radiate from the city to the numerous popular 
resorts for which the Empire State is famous. 



134 POPUL.MJ RESORTS, AKD HOW TO REACH THEM. 

NEW YORK CITY AND CATSKILLS. 

New York City does not come within the design of this work, as a 
place of "popular resort." It is the great cities whose tens of thou- 
sands swarm to distant places, in pursuit of rest and recreation, when 
the sun pours do -mi its summer heats. Cities have their peculiar 
points of striking interest, distinctive of art and wealth, refinement 
and cultivation. These are about as well studied, in the main, at one 
season as at another. Nature has .there been subdued; and more formal 
things usurp her claims. But all our notable cities have their fringes of 
exquisite charms, replete with luxuries and delicacies, to which the mul- 
titude make frequent resort ; and from these prolific centres the pilgrims 
iu pursuit of ease or pastime make their summer journeys. The vast 
suburban regions around New York present an infinite variety of nooks 
and resting-places free from heat and glare and city turmoil. To enu- 
merate these in detail would be useless. If we can glance at the leading 
lines of inviting travel, and places for repose, the balance can all be 
taken in while thus upon the wing. 

rP THE HUDSOX. 

Taking royal precedence of all rivals, commencing at the city of New 
York, is the Hudson River, —or, rather, its grand and glorious shore 
views. Novelty, in describing this renowned river, has long since passed 
out of the possible. Its panegyrists embrace the ablest pens and the 
most gifted minds, not to speak of the hosts who have tried and failed. 
Indeed, the scenery that paints the margin of the Hudson, and as far into 
the remote as vision can reach, simply defies the power of descriptive 
delineation in printer's ink. The delicate and appreciative colors of the 
true artist alone can exhibit the tenderness of the tints and shades; the 
gently serpentine lines ; the valleys and verdure ; the modest undula'ion ; 
the sharp and rugged ascent ; the grand and majestic mountain curves 
and piercing summits, with their soft haze, virgin blues, and rich, deep 
purples; and all these repeated, like a dream echo, in the water mirror 
between. It is genius only that can attempt to convey some grateful 
idea of how the scenery of the Hudson River fascinates and delights all 
minds and all grades of people, when viewed in the full glory of a robust 
summer. To enjoy the river to advantage, one should make the day trip, 
by steamer for .Albany. What will be seen must be left for the reader 
to learn by study, as he winds along the sinuous route of the river. It 
will richly repay for the time and cost of the trip, as a rare painting by 
nature, graced by many a gem of architecture and art. 

It should be borne in mind, that along the Hudson River, and at points 
not remote from its waters, are numerous memorable localities, where 



POPULAR RESOKTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEJI. 135 

some of the sharpest conflicts and most momentous events of the Revo- 
lutionary war occurred. The holding of New York City by the British; 
their efforts to extend their occui3ation, and that of the patriots to hem 
them into as narrow a space as possible, — these, with the distractions 
which attend all like scenes, stamped the still living impress of the strug- 
gle upon many a field of strategy, skirmish, and battle. Of these. Forts 
Washington and Lee (both close to the city) are notable ; also Fort Tryon 
and King's Bridge. All these spots are mentioned in histories of the 
Revolution, especially the desperate battle at King's Bridge, in 1777. 

Yoiikers is as familiar to a New Yorker as the Central Park. 

The lover of old stories will find rare studies of old things around Pier- 
mont, N.Y., more especially the jail in which Major Andre was confined, 
and the spot where he was executed. These are at the ancient town of 
Tappan, near Piermont. 

Washington Irving's home, " Sunnyside," is plainly seen on the right 
as you ascend the River Hudson. 

Tarrytown, N.Y., where Major Andre was arrested, is a notable place. 
Cooper's graphic descriptions of the " Skinners " and " Cowboys " are 
laid in this region ; and Irving's " Sleepy Hollow " is also close by. 

Sing Sing, N.Y., is chiefly noted for its great prison and the Croton 
Aqueduct. 

Croton Point, N.Y., holds the great lake and the vast reservoirs which 
supply the city of New York with water. Some of the grandest triumphs 
of modern engineering skill are here to be seen. 

At Haverstraw, N.Y., Arnold and Andre met to arrange for the surren- 
der of West Point. It is about forty miles up the river. 

The famous '• Stony Point," the scene of " Mad " Anthony Wayne's 
gallant exploit, lies just above Haverstraw, in New York State. 

Peekskill, N.Y., has several Revolutionary reminiscences in its midst. 
On the opposite side of the river is the place where Capt. Kidd is said 
to have buried the treasures so much sought for, but not yet found. 

.Vscending Hudson River, and once past Peekskill, the grand diversities 
of " the Highlands "' open to view, and continue to excite wonder and 
admiration, beyond the power of language adequately to express. These 
conunence about fifty miles up the Hudson, and are probably unsur- 
])asse(l for romantic scenery by any river travel in the Old World or in the 
New. To mention even the more notable, much less all the familiar fea- 
tures along and near this river, or to attempt a detailed description of them, 
would demand too much space. 

West Point, the most renowned fortification on this continent, stands 
at the entrance to the Highland scenery of Hudson River, N.Y., and is a 
specially conspicuous object of interest to strangers. 

Back from the Hudson River, N.Y., some dozen miles, rise the cele- 



136 POPULAR RESOBTS, AND HOAV TO REACH THEM. 

brated Catskill Range, or Kaats-Kills of New York, said to have 

been named by the Dutch, on account of the catamounts found there. 
By the Indians thsy were called Ontioras, meaning " a cloud-like appear- 
ance." These mountains are a part of the great Appalachian chain, 
extending from Canada East to the Gulf of Mexico. Their especial 
point, however, is the range following the course of the Hudson River 
for twenty or thirty miles, — lying twelve miles west, separated by t'l? 
richly productive CatskiU Valley. It is at this part of the Hudson t!i -.t 
the landscape is the most charming; and tourists always meet with glaJ 
surprise this, the objective point of the " Beautiful Hudson." 

The Catskill Mountains, renowned in stoiy and in song, have 
long been famous as summer resorts. Thousands of those eager 
to escape the heat and discomforts of great cities annually visit the 
haunts of " Rip Van Winkle," which Washington Irving in one of his 
charming legends so gracefully portrays, where amid grand views 
and picturesque scenery, the summer is passed pleasantly and rapidly 
away. 

The many mountain streams filled with trout, the wild unbroken 
forests abounding with game, the cool temperature, and pure watei's, 
are among the many inducements offered to the tourist, the sportsman, 
and the invalid. 

The advent of the Neio York, Kingston, and Syracuse Railroad through 
this region, opens up a new route which renders the trip both easy and 
pleasant, alike to the aged and infirm, and has greatly increased the 
popularity of these retreats. The little travel, time, and expense re- 
quired in reaching these regions excel all other mountain resorts. 

The high prices exacted for board, the reign of fashion, and whirl of 
excitement, at the fashionable watering-places, deter many from seeking 
that recreation which their health requires. Throughout this region, in 
isolated positions and in considerable clusters, are large hotels, and 
attractive boarding-houses, where, at prices ranging from six to ten 
dollars per week, ample accommodation, a good table, and kind attention 
await the guest. 

There are two distinct routes by which tourists approach the Catskill s: 
one from Kingston oiu the New York, Kingston, and Syracuse Railroad ; 
and by the old popular line by stage from Catskill Station : both of 
which are described. Visitors from New-York City can go by either of 
,the elegant and commodious steamers "Thomas Cornell," or "James 
W. Baldwin," from the foot of Harrison Street; the fast and famous 
Socamer " Mary Powell," from the foot of Vestry Street ; the Albany 
Day Boats " Drew" or " Vibbard; " the New York Central and Hudson 
iRiv^r liailroad, apd JheJErie Railway. 



I 



POPULAK RESORTS, AXD HOW TO REACH THEM. 137 

APPROACH FROM KINGSTON STATION. 

At Kingston, all of the above-named steamers and tviiins connect 
daily with the New' York, Kingston, and Syracuse Railroad, to the 
mountain regions of Ulster, Delaware, and Greene Counties. 

This company has recently purchased handsome coaches, wliich are 
under the charge of attentive officials ; and the traveller will find the trip 
to the mountains easy and pleasant. As the train winds its way around 
and up the mountains, gorgeous scenery surrounds him on every hand. 
From the car-window the tourist looks out upon the grand, majestic 
Catskills, each peak rich. in romantic legends. Drinking in the pure cool 
breezes of the mountains, inspired by the picturesque grandeur of the 
scene, he is sure to rememl)'^r it as one of the finest views that has 
greeted him in any quarter of the globe. 

A ride of nine miles brings the tourist to West Hurley. This is 
the point of debarkation for passengers bound for the Ocerlook Moun- 
tain House. 

It is situated on Mount Overlook, the most lofty of the summit of 
the Catskill range. Its height is thirty-eight hundred feet above the 
level of the sea. The scenery from its peak is of the boldest and most 
romantic description. The hotel has a capacity to comfortably accom- 
modate five hundred guests. The telegraph and postal facilities are 
ample. The temperature is remarkably eool, the thermometer seldom 
reaching higher than seventy -eight degrees. 

Eighteen miles farther up the Shandaken Valley brings us to 
Phoenicia. Here passengers destined for Hunter, Greene County, will 
find stages in waiting. The scenery from Phoenicia to Hunter is 
perhaps the most attractive of any among the Catskills. The drive 
through the famous S/on;/ Clore, and a visit to the Kauterd'ill Falls and 
Plattcklll Racine, are of themselves sufficient to attract many to this 
charming resort. 

Still travelling through a b'^autiful valley, replete with the most 
romantic scenery, the tourist arrives at Shandaken. The scenery here 
is the annual study of a large number of artists : it is picturesque and 
exceedingly beautiful. This is also the point of debarkation for tour- 
ists crossing the " Notch," and visiting Weslk'dl and Lexington. 

The Notch is one of the most curious features of the mountain. The 
public road crosses the mountain at this point, through a narrow defile 
with abrupt precipices about twelve hundred feet high on either side, 
which appear to close in at the top. In summer it affords an impene- 
trable shade, where snow and ice remain nearly the whole year through 
in th'j clefts of the rock. 



138 POPULAU KKSORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEXt. 

Big Indian is thirty-six miles from Kingston at the foot of the gjade 
ascending Pine Hill, and about five miles from the summit grade of the 
road, and is one of the most favorite resorts for trout-fishing. The 
scenery is wild, and presents some of the most fascinating mountain 
views. 

Again taking the train, while vce slowly wind and twine our way 
around and up Pine Hill, we gaze w^ith silent admiration and awe upon 
the magnificence and sublimity of the scene. It is broad and grand, and 
beyond the power of reproductive art. 

Having crossed Pine Hill at an elevation of nearly two thousand feet 
above the level of the sea, we soon glide into Maryaretsrillc, Delaware 
County. This inviting little village is delightfully situated on the banks 
of the Delaware River. We are now in the vicinity of the famous fish- 
ing and hunting grounds of the Beacerlill and MillbrooL There are two 
good hotels located here. 

Jumping aboard the train agaiii we soon find ourselves at Iloxhur;/. 
The tourist entering this village is at once impressed with the neatness 
of its appearance, and the beaut}' of its location. 

At Morescille passengers for Prattsville, Ashland, "Windham, and 
Hensonvill^ in Greene County, will find splendid four-horso coaches in 
waiting. 

Pratlscille. — This is an attractive little village cosily nestled among 
the Catskills. and has a population of seven hundred inhabitants. Here 
are located a number of fine boarding-houses. 

Wiodham. This is the headquarters for city boarders in CJreene 
County. Of all the towns upon our route, none are more attractive to 
the pleasure-seeker ; none present more pleasant social aspects, or equal 
it in its picturesque scenery, and grand surroundings. 

HtiisonciUe is a beautiful mountain village, situated about three miles 
from Windham, and contains a number of first-class boarding-houses, 
and is each year increasing in popularity. 

Stamfont, Delaware County, is the present terminus of the railroad. 
This charming little village, situated over eighteen hundred feet above 
the level of the sea. will long detain the visitor by the pleasant strolls 
which it invites among its shady streets, bordered by cosey ri^sidences 
and elegant pleasure-grounds ; by the many drives which are aft^orded in 
its environs through inviting groves, into beautiful villages, an<l over 
rippling brooks. Those desii'ous of passing the summer among the 
mountains can certainly find no pleasanter accommodations, nor 
more polite and kind attentions, than those we guarantee them to 
receive from the hands of the inhabitants of this charming vil- 
lage. 



POPULAR KESORTS, AND HOW TO RRACII Til KM. 139 

APPROACH KUOM CATSKILL STATION. 

Catskill station is most accessible by way of this river, either by rail 
or steamboat: several trains and boats run daily, south from Albany, and 
nortli from New York City, connecting with the ferry which crosses the 
river to Catskill proper, including the world-renowned day-line steamers, 
" C. ViBBARO," and " Dan'iel Drew," which leave New York every 
morning. A daily line of stages conveys passengers from the village 
across the valley to the mountains about twelve miles off. 

If the visitor is in search of mountain scenery alone, he will leave the 
fashionable hotels of the river and village neighborhood, and proceed at 
once by the stage-road to the terminus of the lovely valley of Catskill 
Creak, where he will find himself at the seat of the hill and mountain 
region. 

About six miles on from the village, he will pass the ancient Dutch 
hamlet of Kiskatom ; and, along a mile or two, ^'Sleepy Hollow ^^ of 
Irving's legend is seen. It is rather paradoxical to breathe here, not a 
slumbering, dream-like air, but, instead, a literal " Rip Van Winkle" 
in'shape of a wide-awake hotel. Thrift and enterprise have entered into 
that " Hollow " with an earnestness that would bring dismay to the 
charming writer who aimed to immortalize the spot as one of restful, 
unchanging scone. 

About two miles from the Hollow, the road turns, and ascends Pine 
Orchard Mount; and here the view includes an area of ten thousand 
square miles: the eye can reach four States. To the west is a varied 
mountain view; to the east, a wide half-circle of etherealized blue land- 
scape. "On the horizon, the Hudson Highlands, the Berkshire and 
Green Mountains, unite their chains, forming a continuous line of misty 
blue. The Hudson, its broad valley studded with white villages, is 
stretched below for many leagues." This view has been enthusiastically 
described by some of our best American autliors, and Harriet Martineau 
was more moved by it than by Niagara itself. The mirage, the sunrise 
over the Taghkanics, and the raging of a thunder-storm, are objects of 
especial attention here. 

North Mountain is reached by a path leading from the hotel of Pine 
Orchard INIount which passes the Bcar\^ Den. On the way to Puddinc/- 
Slone Hall and to the Fairi/ Sprinr/, the South Mouiilain is ascended: it is 
a pleasant path, and the view from the summit extends over a vast 
space, taking in certain peaks of New Jersey. The two Cauterdill Lakes, 
about a mile and a half off, abound in fish. 

An old road, exceedingly rural, leads from the broad rock platform of 
Pine Orchard to Mo.sen' Rock , and, for a mile or two on, there spreads a 



140 POPULAR KESOBTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

deep and well-wooded ravine. Just below are Cautemnlle Falls, interest- 
ing as the outlet of the lakes. These falls spring over the rocky cliffs 
in two jets ; the first one hundred and seventy-five feet, the second 
eighty feet high. A curious performance can be here carried on by 
accomplished guides, who will, by aid of a dam, and for a small fee, 
effect a "freak of nature." The natural flow of water is not at all 
time-!, especially in summer, sufficient to display the desired effect of 
the falls; and, in order to satisfy sight-seers, the water is turned on from 
a dam, and the object is furnished for value received. 

Bastion Falls are a quarter of a mile down the ravine, on the way to 
Caulersville Clove. 

This Clove is the favorite resort of artists; and the section leads 
upward with gradual rise, and west to the lofty plateau of South Mountain, 
passing pretty dots of brook scenery. A ravine leading from this 
summit contains the famous Hifjh Rocks, and also the Fawn^s Leap Falls : 
arid farther along, near the outlet, is the entrance to Hain's Falls, an 
imposing cascade one hundred and fifty feet high, with one or two 
less notable ones above and below. The Washington Profile Rock is near 
the bridge, crossing on to the Clove road. Many graceful cascades occur 
in the Clove stream, which follows along the slopes of Hic/h Peak; the 
road passing on with it diverges at Hunter, running to the south-west, 
and down to Esopus Valley near Overlook Mountain, and returning 
tlirough Stony Clove. This stream is excellent for trout-fishing. 

Hunter's Glen is narrow, and wildly grand. It was originally settled 
by " Cow Boys," a band of border banditti. Near it, is the sharp 
ragged peak, the ColoneUs Chair, and also Hunter Mountain. 

Two miles from Hunter Hamlet a portion of Stony Clove gorge lies 
continuously sunless, holding to its bosom ice-depths throughout the 
year, — a fitting place for the Dsvil's Tombstone, which is in this gloomy 
ravine. At tliis place we are twenty miles from Catskill village. Farther 
west are the lonely glens of Lexington; and on, a distance of thirty-six 
miles west of Catskill, are the far- viewing Pratfs Rocks. Looking north 
towards Hudson, Mount Merino is seen overlooking Matteaicans, Catskills, 
Taghkanicks , the Green Mountains, the Luzerne Mountains at Lake George, 
an 1 many miles along the Hudson. 

About six miles south of the Cauterskill Clove, Plattekill Clove is 
entered from Saugerties Plains by a road running along the foot of the 
mountains or from the Tannersville plateau. It is an exceedingly weird, 
deep-descending gorge, incased in massive cliffs, and is traversed by a 
rambling brook and rough path. Black Chasm Falls are in this Clove : 
they have an altitude of three hundred feet. On towards the north, High 



POPULAR BESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



141 



Peak and Round Top Mountains are plainly visible. High Peak, the most 
prominent of all this region, is often ascended by venturesome ladies. 
The path is rough and winding, and starts from near Haines Falls. It is 
thirty-eight hundred and four feet high, and is conceded to give tlie most 
extensive view of this region. Next in consequence is the symmetrical 
Round Top, thirty-seven hundred and eighteen feet high. These two 
mountains are isolated fi'om their sisters of the range, being separated 
by the deep ravines of Plattekill and Cauterskill Clove. Blackhead, near 
by, and six miles north of Catskill Mountain, is a steep and cone-like 
peak. 

There are remaining, in adjoining counties, several hundred square 
miles of merely officially explored territory. The land is scarcely 
inhabited, and is a region of profound wildness. It is made up of tall, 
savage-looking mountains, covered with rank forest growth, intersected 
by sparkling trout-streams, forming themselves into occasional cascades, 
presenting to the adventurer rare scenes of interest. 

Three or four days will suffice to see the Catskills in a general detail , 
a week or more, however, ought to be given to perfectly satisfy the tourist. 
They are mountains of more than ordinary capacity to interest. The artist 
Thomas Cole, of " Course of Empire " fame, made this region his home 
with an enthusiasm equalling the well-known Niagara hermit ; in fact, 
his well-earned and favorable reputation dated from his painting of the 
Cauterskill Falls. It is, perhaps, unnecessary to add that the visitor will 
find here good accommodations. It is hoped that a future edition will 
present this region, so replete with scenic beauty, fully illustrated to the 
public. 




142 POPULAB BESORTS, ANB HOW TO REACH THEM. 

ILLUSTRATED PLEASURE ROUTE No. 14. 

New York and Philadelphia to Bethlehem, Mauch Chunk, 
Wilkes Barre, Scranton, Richfield and Sharon Springs, 
Howe's Cave, Saratoga, Lakes George and Champlain, the 
Adirondacks, Montreal and Quebec. Also a New Route 
from New York to Long Branch and North Mountain, Pa. 

CEXTUAL RAILROAD OF NEW JERSEY, NORTH PENNSYLVANIA, ALBANY 
AND SUSQUEHANNA, RENSSELAER AND SARATOGA, AND NEW YORK 
AND CANADA RAILROADS. 

The depot of the Central Railroad of New Jersey, in Jersey 
City, is reached by the raih-oad company's splendid ferry-boat from the 
foot of Liberty Street, New York, from whence cars continue through 
Northern New Jersey to Easton and Bethlehem, Pennsylvania. At the 
latter place connection is made with the North Pennsylvania Railroad, 
leading from Philadelphia to Bethlehem, whence the route continues over 
the rails of the Lehigh and Susquehanna Railroad (a leased road of the 
Central Railroad of New Jersey) up the valley of the Lehigh, past Scran- 
ton, to Green Ridge, connecting with the Delaware and Hudson Canal 
companies' railroads, to Cooperstown, Sharon Springs, Howe's Cave, 
Albany, Saratoga, Lakes George and Champlain, Montreal, Quebec, and 
the Adirondacks. 

NORTH PENNSYLVANIA RAILROAD. 

Although Philadelpliia has been denominated the " City of Homes," — 
and justly so, for in no place of its magnitude in the world is the 
general population '■ housed " in the same independent and comfortable 
manner, — yet, as the summer solstice approaches, there is a certain 
portion of the community, that, tiring of the heated streets and sultry 
atmosphere, are willing to leave the clustering comforts by which they 
are surrounded, and are anxious to escape into the open country, to revel 
among the verdant fields and leafy groves, to listen to the murmuring 
rill, or the deep diapason of the ocean's roar, to climb the mountain, or 
thread the valley, and at the same time to drink in deep draughts of the 
pure, life-giving air that will invigorate them for their returning duties 
in the metropolis, whether their accustomed routine be business or 
pleasure. One of the favorite routes leading from the city, and largely 
patroiiized by the pleasure-seekers, is the North Pennsylvania Railroad, 
running from Philadelphia to Bethlehem (with several lateral branches), 
where it unites with the Lehigh and Susquehanna division of the Central 
Railroad of New Jersey, and with the Lehigh Valley Railroad. From an 
imposing and well-ordered depot at the corner of Berks and American 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 143 

Streets, easily accessible by the lines of street-cars from all points of the 
city, numerous daily trains, at short intervals, are receiving the thronging 
passengers, and distributing them upon their several errands ; vvhether 
their destination be the suburban homes of which so many grace the line 
of the road, or the more lengthened trip to mountain, glen, or lake 
that this route offers on such favorable terms, with such excellent 
accommodations. 

The line of the road is singulaily beautiful in a quiet and rural point 
of view. Before leaving the city limits, it strikes through large planta- 
tions owned by old and wealthy families, who, keeping their possessions 
intact with the proper admixture of glebe and woodland, contril)ute moi-e 
to the enjoyment of the cultivated eye in viewing the beautiful results, 
than would extended rows of brick and mortar. Progressing up the 
road, the country opens out on eitlier side in exceeding beauty. Valleys 
stretching oft' for miles, dotted with hamlets, sparkling with streams, and 
showing evident marks of thrift and cultivation, greet the eye, while on 
many an eminence may be seen handsome and substantial mansions, sur- 
rounded by grounds decorated in all the perfection of landscape-gardening. 

Nor is the useful entirely subordinate to the beautiful. Several belts 
of hematitic iron-ore cross the road in different localities, .at each of 
which may be seen the lofty stacks and puffing engines of the blast- 
furnace, with the accompanying aggregation of dwellings, and other 
marks of this industry upon which Pennsylvania builds so firmly the 
edifice of her greatness. At Bethlehem the North Pennsylvania makes 
connection with two diverging roads, — the Central Railroad of New Jei'sey, 
leading eastward to Easton, and through New Jersey to N(!w York City, 
and northward through the Leliigh and Wyoming Valleys to Scrantoii, and 
so on via the Albany and Susquehanna Railroad; and also with the Lehigh 
Valley Railroad, leading eastward to Easton, and northward through the 
Lehigh, Wyoming, and Sus(}uehanna Valleys, to the New York State line, 
joining at that point with the Erie Railway, Ithaca and Athens, South- 
ern Central, and other roads en route to Watkins Glen, Niagara Falls, the 
lake system of Central New York, tiie Great Lakes, and all the desirable 
watering-places of New York and Canada. The North Pennsylvania 
route has for some years been a favorite one for pleasure-seekers; and 
each season increases the number of those availing themselves of its 
speedy transit, comfortable cars, and admirable acconunodations. 

There are several branches striking off from the. main line; at Lans- 
dale, one running eastward to Doylcstown, the county seat of Bucks 
County, and one running westward to Noiristown, the county seat of 
Montgomery County; one at Abhigton, running to Ilartsville and Hat- 
boro', flourishing villages in Montgomery County, upon all of which are 
enterprising and growing towns. 



144 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND HO\V TO REACH TIIEM. 



PENNSYLVANIA SCENERY — UP THE LEHIGH. 

The remarkable unfolding of the mineral resources of Pennsylvania 
during the last few years has developed some of the finest scenery on the 
continent. Deep gorges, bold precipices, and wild ravines, heretofore 
untrodden by human foot, now sparkle \\ ith the light of civilization. The 
screaming locomotive, guided by science, darts into the recesses of the 
mountains. Forests are levelled, valleys cleared, houses erected, cities 
reared, mines opened; and the very hills pour forth their hidden treasures. 

T h i s ^^^^^^^ ^^^^ ^_ _ _^ ^^^ 



i n d u s- 
trial re- 
s e a r c h 
has open- 
ed up a 
new field 
for pleas- 
ure seek- 
ers. Prob- 
ably no 
other lo- 
cality on 
the con- 
t i n e n t 
has re- 
ceived a 
like in- 
crease of 
visitors 
A few 
years ago 
the ex- 
t e n si ve 
coal r e- 
g ion of 
]*ennsyl- 
V a n i a 
was com- 
parative- 

ly un- LEH,C:.H VALLEY, MAUCH CHUNK, PENN. 

1 Looking South from Mt. PIsgah. 

to the tourist : now thousands visit it annually, and return filled with ad- 
miration of the wild beauties it contains. 




POPULAR KESOBTS, ANO HOAV TO KEACH TJIKM. 145 

ROUTK OF APPROACH. 

The direct route of approach to the coal reqions of Pennsylvania from 
New York, New England, and the I'rortnces is by the Central Railroad 
of New Jersey, its Branches and Connections, and from Phila- 
delphia by the North Pennsylvania Railroad. 

This also is the most direct and the shortest route from New York to 
Easton, Allentown, Wilkes Barre, Reading, Harrisburg, Williamsport, the 
Oil Regions, Pittsburg, and the West, and is one of the very pleasantest to 
North Mountain and Watkins (ilen (elsewhere described), and when con- 
nected will embrace one of the finest and most varied pleasin-e trips on 
the continent. It has also been opened as a through route' from New 
York and Philadelphia to Saratoga, rid Mauch Chunk, Wilkes Barre, 
Scranton, &c. (see description). We leave New York from the foot of 
Liberty Street, by the Central New Jersey Railroad Company's splendid 
ferry-boats to Jersey City, from which point our route by rail commences. 
The road leads at first in a general westerly direction, through a fine 
agricultural region, interspersed with thriving villages and elegant 
suburban residences. It is also a field I'eplete with historic memories. 
Washington's Rock; the lofty crag from which that revered general was 
wont to study the position and note the movements of a foreign foe. is 
plainly visible from the cars. 

At Hampton Junction tlie *• Delaware, Lackawanna, and Western Rail- 
road" connects for Delaware ^^'ater (Jap, Scranton, Great Bend, and 
Binghamton. 

At Phillipsburg, a picturesque town built on a bold bluft' on the left 
bank of the Delaware Rivei', opposite Easton, which it overlooks, the 
'• Central Railroad " connects with the " Morris and P'ssex " and the 
"Belvidere " Railrbads. 

Easton is delightfully located at the confluence of the Lehigh and 
Delaware Rivers, the former leaping over a dam of twenty-one feet at this 
place. The town is approached by a magnificent bridge, one thousand 
feet long, and twenty-two feet high. It is constructed of wrouglit iron, 
resting on heavy cut-stone piers, and, including the rock-cuts in the 
vicinity, cost .'$650,()0(). Beneath this pass diagonally the Canal, " Bel- 
videre Railroad," and foot-bridge ; and under all rush the waters of the 
wild mountain torrent in its race to the sea. 

This bridge comiects the " Centi'al New Jersey Railroad " with the 
"Lehigh and Susquehanna " Division on the north bank of the Lehigh, 
and with the " Lehigh Valley Railroad " on the south bank. By the 
latter route we continue to Bethlehem and Allentown. The picturesque 
beauty of the scenery increases from Easton, the cars following the 
graceful cui'ves of the river, which is fringed and shaded by beautiful 



146 



I'OPULAK KKSOKTS. AXl) HOW TO Ul'IACll THK^l. 



trees, while bold hills, clothed with luxuriant foliage, compose the 
background. 

At Bethlehem the " North Pennsylvania Railroad," from Philadelphia, 
intersects with the " Lehigh Valley " and the " Lehigh and Susquehanna" 
Roads, contributing its quota of tourists from Philadelphia and the 
South. The "Lehigh and Lackawanna" Branch to Chapman's also 
leads from this point. 

At Allentowu the course of the river is from the north-west, up which 
the "■ Lehigh Valley " and " Lehigh and Susquehanmx " Railroads extend, 
while connection is also made with the " Allentown Line ; " which com- 
prises the " East Pennsylvania Railroad," thirty-six miles from Allentown 
to Reading, and the " Lebanon Valley Railroad," fifty-four miles farther, 
to Harrisburg. The general course of this route is westerly. The 
scenery is mi usually fine; and, differing entirely in character from the 
" New York and Allentowu" section, it adds to the variety and pleasure 
of the tourist. At Harrisburg connection is made with trains on the 
'• Pennsylvania and Northern Central Railroad," affording ample facili- 
ties to go North, Soutli. or West. 

TIIK LEHIGH VALLEY. — RE- 
SUMING FROM EASTON. 

The "Lehigh and Susque- 
hanna " Division of the "Cen- 
tral Railroad " connects at 
Kaston, aiui, following the tor- 
tuous course of the Lehigli, 
winds its picturesque way 
through the mountains to the 
Susquehanna at Wilkes Barre. 
up which it follows to Pitts- 
ton, and thence on the east 
bank of the Lackawanna to 
Scranton. 

This is a main line, into 
which lead, from every direc- 
tion, branches filled with trains 
burthened with the rich min- 
eral products of this remark- 
able region. Coal is not the only product : iron, slate, &c., are manu- 
factured in great abimdance. 

Either of these is t'oimd in quantities sutiicient to insure the wealth 
and prosperity of any section of the country. These industrial pursuits 
form an interesting source of infornuition, as well as amusement, to the 




COAL VEIN. 



I'Ol'ULAK ICKSOHTS, AND HOW TO KEACIl THKM. 



147 



tourist. He oi'ten gazes in amazenient upon the carious inecliani.siii and 
ponderous iniplenieuts employed. The enormous expenditures which 
have been made to develop and frequently to prepare to develop these 
enterprises, are a source of wonder. And when we realize that these 
features are but adjuncts to one of the finest combinations of natural 
scenery in Anifrica, we can better niHh'istaiid its growing jmpularity. 




LEHIGH GAP, 

(Looking Down). 

Central Railroad of New Jersey. 



" Soon after leaving Bethlehem, the mountains approach the bed of the 
stream, and at ' The Gap ' fling tliemselves directly in its path, leaving no 
resource but to go through them, which it has accordingly done, cleaving 
the mountains from summit to base in its efforts to escape. 



148 



POPULAR ItESOKTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



" It is not until the vicinity of Mauch Chunk is reached that the peculiar 
features of Lehigh Valley appear in perfection." 





I'OIMII.AK KKSOIM'S, ANW Hl>\V TO i;KA( II TIIK.M. 



140 



The arrival of the morning trains atMauch Chunk from New York and 
Philadeljiliia is at the hour of noon; and a hot dinner at the Mansion 
Honsp is waiting to be served. This, to the frecjuenter of the Leliigh 

Valley, is the 
only a n- 
nounceme n t 
nece ss ary ; 
hut to the 
s t r a n ger I 
will add 
that "The 
I\I ansi on " 
has no snpe- 
lior in this 
region. It 
needs hut 
one visit to 
insure a sec- 
ond. The cars 
of the " Cen- 
tral 11 a i 1- 
road of New- 
Jersey" stop 
at the door; 
and its loca- 
tion on the 
banks of the 
Lehigh, over- 
hung by rug- 

MANSION HOUSE. MAUCH CHUNK, PENN. gt'd moUU- 

Central Railroad of New Jersey. taius, all 

clothed with the fragrant rhodendron. is picturestjue to the last degree. 

The visitor to Mauch Chunk is advised to go without any pre-arrange.l 
l^lans. It is not a place to "do " by programme, as many tourists travel. 
It contains too much, has too many features of interest, so startling in 
their character, so grand in conception, and so beautiful in detail, that 
any previous plan of operations must in execution' fall to nought. It is 
better to go mitrammelled. 

After finding yourself comfortably domiciled, go first to the veranda 
on the front of the house, and leisurely study the scene, an engraving of 
which is herewith submitted. It is truly a wonderful view, pleasing in 
art, yet far more so in nature. A glimpse of the entrance to the town 
shows through the narrow street to the left. Sjjlendid residences cling 





I ! 'l ' I 'p'', I , 



I'OIMILAH KKSOKIS. AM> HOW TO ItKACII IIIKM. 



151 



to the hillside beyond, over which ;i lew inaible iiioiuiiueiits indicate the 
village cemetery. Beyond this we take the cars for the " Switch-back " 
Railway. The "dam " in the left middle ground throws the water intc 




the canal, 
w hose 
boats, 
1 o ad e d 
with the 

THE FLAGSTAFF. "black 

diamonds" of this region, we have seen 
by the wayside. Immediately before 
the door is the platform of the " Cen- 
tral llailroad of New Jersey." where 
passengers are left aiid received from 
every train. The light iron bridge leads 
to the depot of the "Lehigh Valley Railroad." on the opposite side of the 
river. Bear Mnuntnin is the central featnre of the landscape. 

But the mountain on the right r.'ceives the greatest homage from 
visitors. From the "Flagstaff" on its summit you get the view sug- 
gested by the above engraving, though vastly superior. It is too 
extensive, too grand, to receive justice from the artist's pencil. The 
topography of the whole country is sjiread out before you. It seems a 
moving diorama, through which you trace the serpentine windings of the 
Lehigh Valley, with its river, its railroads, and canals. 



152 



POPUI.AE RESORTS, AND HOW TO HEACH THEM. 



An excursion over the " Switch-back " Railroad will also be in order. 
Strictly si:ieaking, the " Switch-back " has ceased to exist, and a gravity 
road has taken its place ; but the name remains. The jfirst improve- 
ment in the " Switch-back " Railroad — for convejdng coal from the mines 
about Summit Hill, ten miles distant, to the boats of the " Coal Navi- 
gation Company" at Mauch Chunk — was by employing (jracity one way, 
the grade being sufficient to insure this. Mules were taken down on the 
train to draw the cars back. This was subsequently improved by the 
construction of planes over the intervening elevations, Mt. Pisgah and 
Mt. Jefferson, up which the cars were drawn by stationary engines on 
their summits ; the altitude thus gained being sufficient to turn the grade 

to Summit 
Hill, to 
which place 
the cars re- 
turn e d by 
their own 
gravity. 
This means 
of trans- 
portation an- 
swered well 
its purpose 
until the 
great de- 
mand for 
the anthra- 
cite coal of 
the " L e- 
high " war- 
ranted the 
constructio n 
of a steam 
railroad, — 
the cutting 
of solid rocks 
asunder, and 
piercing the 
mountain 
barriers with 

tunnels. The success of this last enterprise relieved the " Switch-back," 
or, more properly, " Gravity " Road ; but the opening of this region at 
this tinip as a "popular resort " suggested the use of the " Switch-back " 




MT. PISGAH PLANE, 
'itch-back" Railroad, Mauch Chunk, 



154 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

as a pleasure route for excursionists. Passenger cars have been substi- 
tuted; and the same powerful machinery used for coal-cars is now 
applied to the light pleasure traffic. Carriages from the depots and the 
hotels take passengers to the base of Mt. Pisgah, though it is but a 
short distance for those who prefer to walk ; and the fine scenery will 
repay the effort. The j^^c-^^'^ of Mt. Pisgah rises one foot in three 
for 2,322 feet. The cars are drawn up by a stationary engine on the top, 
connecting with an iron band six and one-half inches wide, which runs 
over a drum eighteen feet in diameter. The passenger car is followed 
by a safety car, supplied with a long iron bar following in a " ratchet," 
which, in case of breakage of engine or bands, securely holds the cars 
against accident; and its efficiency may be judged by the fact that 
there has never yet been an accident. On reaching the summit of Mt. 
Pisgah, the car starts by its own gravity down the opposite grade. Its 
course is gradual, following the tortuous sinuosities of the sur- 
face; now glancing under the shade of broad-spreading trees, for a 
moment refreshing all with their cooling shade ; anon skirting the brink 
of a beetling crag, unfolding glimpses of the changing scenes below. 
Now we glide along the mountain side, and skim through the vaUeys, 
clearing at a bound the noisy streams which foam and boil far down 
among the rocks. 

The ride is exhilarating beyond description. Without motive power, 
we seem to Jiij through the air. The winter coasting which delighted our 
childhood daJ^s tames in comparison. 

The car is under the complete control of the brakemen. It would 
acquire a speed of forty-five miles an hour, but is kept at eighteen. Six 
miles our downward course is held, to the base of Ml. Jefferson, up which 
we are drawn as before, and again descend a single mile to Summit Hill, 
where a half -hour's stay is made. This is a mining hamlet, whose chief 
attraction to the tourist is the "Burning Mine," which has been on fire 
since 1832. The homeward ride is pleasant : we have no more planes to 
rise ; our altitude is sufficient to give the grade, down which we glide 
nine miles to the point of starting. The pleasure of the party increases ; 
familiarity with the scene has banished the fear of fancied dangers ; and 
all return feeling that they have received an unusual amount of satisfac- 
tion for a dollar; and not unfrequently repeat it the next day. 

It would seem that enough objects of interest about Mauch Chunk have 
already been described to insure its popularity ; but the most beautiful 
feature remains, — Glen Onoko, Two miles above the village this 
fascinating spot is located. Cars by the " Central Railroad of New Jersey," 
and "Lehigh Valley Railroad," make several trips daily. It consists of 
a depression in the mountain, from which a fiery stream springs a thou- 
sand feet b' successive leaps to the valley below, forming among the 



POPULAl! JtKSOUTS, AND HOW TO KKA( H THEM. 155 

rocks and precipices a rare combination of waterfalls and cascades, which 
are clothed with deep evergreen foliage, and ornamented by the bright 
flowers of the rhododendron. At much time and expense a good path, 
stairways, and rustic bridges have been constructed, to facilitate the 
visitor. The accompanying " cut" of Onoko Station will convey a good 
idea of the locality, which is known to boatmen as the " Turn-Hole," 
from the "eddy" in the river formed by the current. The bluff on the 
left, through which the *' Lehigh and Susquehanna" Division of the 
" Central Railroad of New Jersey" passes by tunnel, is properly known 
as Moyer's Rock, and possesses a traditional interest. The story is 
told in this wise : During the early settlement of the country, a noted 
hunter and Indian-fighter, living in Mahoning Valley, four miles south, 
who had hitherto eluded all attempts at capture, w-as surrounded, taken 
prisoner, and disarmed, by five Indian warriors, and left on the summit of 
this rock for security, guarded by two of their number, while the others 
hunted for game. Moyer was sorely perplexed. To fight alone two armed 
Indians was not to be thought of ; and long he pondered. Suddenly 
starting, he listened intently, then relaxed into his former quiet. The 
Indians w-atched him unmoved. Again he started ; and, creeping to 
the very brink, throwing into his countenance all the interest he could 
command, he gazed intently down. The ruse succeeded : overcome by 
curiosity, the Indians unguardedly moved to his side, and sought to 
discover the source of interest ; when, with the sjiring of the tiger, he 
seized and dashed them to the rocks below^ 

The visitor to Glen Onoko should be well shod and suitably clothed, 
the refreshing coolness of the atmosphere rendering an extra " wrap " 
acceptable. The successive cascades, waterfalls, and other objects of 
interest, at Glen Onoko have each received appropriate names, and are 
worthy an individual description; but there are so many other interesting- 
features of this picturesque region which demand a passing notice, that 
we must leave details to local guides. 

Mauch Chunk is not, as many suppose, a minnig town, but is, rather, 
the great coal-depot or shipping-mart of the Lehigh Valley. The pro- 
duction of coal is a subject of growing interest to the people of America: 
and, although it is not within the province of this volume to enter into a 
detailed description of the manner of working a coal-mine, yet a few 
lines for the benefit of those who would like to investigate the subject 
while in this region will be in place. The coal is found in veins of 
various thickness, and differently situated, — sometimes level, sometimes 
curved, often at an angle, and occasionally cropping out at the surface, 
from which the entrance is made. The experienced geologist can predict 
with approximate correctness the location of a vein of coal, and estimate 
the thickness of the overlying strata which must be pierced to reach it. 



156 POPULAR KESOPvTS, AND HOW TO KEACII THEM. 

Sometimes these tunnels enter at the upturned edge of the vein, and 




descend with its inclination, 
and are termed slopes. These 
apertures are generally about 
eleven feet wide by seven feet 
high, and contain two rail- 
ways, — one for the descend- 
ing and one for the ascending 
'^"^'^ cars. — and a "pump way" (for 

the mine must be continually cleared by the most powerful pumps), and 
a travelling or " man way." The slopes vary in length, frequently 
descending to great depths, passing at times under towns and rivers. 
The longest slopes in the anthracite regions are .at New Philadelphia, or 
Lewis Vein, 2,700 feet ; and at Diamond Vein, which is from 2,800 to 3,000 
feet: these are on an incline of about 45°. " Gangways " are turned 
off to the right and left ; and in working the coal a " pillar " is left every 
few feet which sustains the overlying strata of rock, and prevents it 
falling in. 



POPUI.AR KKSOKTS, AND HOW TO UKA( 11 Til KM. 



157 



/ 



Within a distance of from two to five miles from the town of Wilkes 
Barre, through which this route leads us, there are worked over forty 
mines, producing in some cases 1,500 tons of coal daily from a single mine. 
The " Nesquehoning Valley Branch Railroad" leads from Mauch 
Chunk, and, connecting with the " Catawissa Railroad," extends to 
Williamsport, a distance of ninety-two miles. 

This route is noted for the wildness of its scenery, its deep ravines, 
and high bridges, and must eventually become very popular with the 
pleasure-seeker. 

^ U, .-_ ..__^= -_- ^ ,-, ^_ From 

^ _/-._ '"*%^ Mauch 

Chunk 
a north- 
B ward the 
■ Lehigh 
J Valley is 
a little bet- 
"j tei than 
<i canon 
enclosed 
l)etween 
li i g h 
mountain 
w alls, at 
whose 
base the 
n arrow 
stream 
1 umbles 
<i n d 
t o ams; 
its waters 
now dis- 
playing 
I lie rich 
I m b e r 
li u e 
which 
they have 
disti lied 
from the 
roots and 
plants in 




THE LEHIGH. 

Looking North from Mount Pisgah, Mauch Chunk. 

Central Railroad of New Jersey. 



the swamps around their source, now white from their encounter with rock 



158 POPULAR KESOKTS, AND HOW TO BEACH THEM. 

or fall. High rocks hang directly overhead, and threaten to fall at any 
moment upon the trains which constantly roll beneath : branches wave, 
and flowers blossom on the hillside, so close to the railroad track that the 
passengers can almost reach them without leaving their seats. Here and 
there a miniature waterfall springs from the mountain top, and glances, 
a ribbon of foam and spray, to the river at its foot ; and at frequent 
intervals ravines cut in the mountain side present a confusion of rocks 
and wood and water to the eye of the traveller as he flashes by. Traced 
back a little from their mouths, these glens often show a wealth of 
beauty, a succession of snowy cascades, transparent pools, and romantic 
nooks, which are an ever fresh surprise to the explorer. 

At Penn Haven, seven miles above Mauch Chunk, the " Lehigh Valley 
Railroad " connects with the '' Mahauoy, Beaver Meadow, and Hazel ton " 
Branches. The " Lehigh Valley" here crosses the river, and runs on the 
east bank to White Haven. 

Fifty years ago this whole valley was a wilderness, with one narrow 
wagon-road crawling at the base of the hills beside a mountain torrent) 
which defied all attempts to navigate it. Now the momatain walls make 
room for two railroads and a canal ; but the tawny watei'S of the stream 
are nearly as free as ever. Here and there, indeed, a curb restrains 
them ; and once an elaborate system of dams and locks tamed the wild 
river, and made it from IMauch Chunk to White Haven a succession of 
deep and tranquil pools. " But one day in 1862 the waters rose in their 
might. Every dam was broken, every restraint swept away ; and from 
White Haven to Mauch Chunk the stream ran free once more. The 
memory of that fearful day is still fresh in the minds of the dwellers of 
the valley; and the bed of the torrent is still strewn with the wrecks that 
went down before its wrath." . . . 

Nescopec Junction is a place of little importance ; but the 
" Nescopec Branch Railroad " leads nine miles into a valley filled with 
wild and picturesque scenery. 

This whole region is strange to the visitor. The valleys are deep, the 
precipices are bold and high, and the mountains steep. Even the waters 
rush with greater violence than in tamer countries. But the public will 
soon understand this scenery better. The artists, the pioneers of pleas- 
ure travel, have already heard of it, and each year visit it in increasing 
numbers. Soon the tide will set up this valley, hotels will be in demand 
to meet it, and the /»-e.s,s- will herald its praises. 

Persons residing in our large cities hardly realize how quickly and for 
how small a sum these romantic places can be enjoyed. The morning 
train from New York or Philadelphia takes you to Mauch Chunk in 
season for dinner, — dinner steaming hot at the Mansion House. The 
" Switch-back " and Glen Onoko can be visited in season to return at 
night. 



POl'ULAU KESOKTS, AND HOW TO IJEACII THEINI. 



159 



The subjoined description of tlie Nescopec i-egion is from " Lippincott's 
Magazine : " — 

'• Wp walked alioiit a half-niilc along a wood-road, struck into a foot- 




path, and 
lollowed it a hun- 
dred yards or so, 
and without warn- 
ing walked out on 
a flat rock, from 
which we could at 
first see nothing 
but fog, up, down, 
or around. It was 
a misty morning; 
PROSPECT ROCK. l^^^t ^^.p ,nade out 

Nescopec Valley. to Understand that 

we were on the verge of a precipice, which fell sheer down into a tre- 
mendous abyss ; and when the fog lifted we looked out upon miles and 



160 



POPULAE RESORTS, ANT) HOW TO RKACH THEM. 



miles of valleys, partly cleared, but principally covered with primeval 
forests. We were on Prospect Rock. 

" Presently our guide took us by a roundabout way to Cloud Point. 
This is a commanding projection on the other side of the glen ; and here 
a still wider view — another, yet the same — lay before us. There is 
something indescribably grand in the solitude of this scene, — forests 




CLOUO POINT, UPPER LEHIGH. 

its pristine beauty and granduer. 



of qiant trees lifting high 
tlicir heads, in ]>laces, where 
growths for thousands of 
years have stood before, 
through which peer rough- 
visaged rocks which the 
hand of Time has failed to 
smooth. We gazed with de- 
light on the beautiful land- 
scape, then descended into 
C;ien Thomas, a gem of 
scenic loveliness ; fresh in 



I'OPUI.AU KKSOKTS, AND HOW lO UKACII I IIKM. 



IHl 



" Our visit was made on the first of May. We found here min- 
iature glaciers, formed by the water falling over 
tlie rocks, the ice three feet and more in thick- 
ness; while not a hundred yards away jNIay-flow- 
ers were blooming in fragrant abundance. This 
region is filled with an untold wealth for the artist 
and lover of nature." And the time is not far 
distant when the travelling public, wearied by 
oft-repeated visits to old resorts, will demand the 
opening of these fresh and charming scenes. 

From AVhite Haven to the "' Summit," on the 
main line, the landscape is more tame : the soil is 
poor ; and the trees present that stunted appear- 
ance usual at high latitudes. But this brief 
respite tends to make the startling scenery 
through which the road soon passes 
even more effective. Having passed 
the crest of Wilkes Barre Mountain, 
tlie train glides rapidly down the 
opposite grade, and soon enters that 
wonderful gorge known as Solo- 
mon's Gap, the scene of the an- 
nexed engraving. This is the head 
of a system of planes by which 
loaded cars from the coal-fields be- 
low are raised by the Company of the 
Central Railroad of New Jersey. 

"We get here the first glimpse of 
" Wyoming Valley," which we are ap- 
proaching at right angles. The Sus- 
quehanna can be seen in the valley, 
beyond which ranges of mountains 
rise in the blue distance. In altitude 
we are far, far above the Wyoming 
Valley; and the construction of the 
road by which it was reached was a 
rare feat of engineering skill. It is 
but three miles in an air-line to the 
small village of AsJdei/, seen below; 

yet, to ovei'come the grade, for eighteen GLEN THOMAS 

miles the cars glance along the mountain sides, following in its zigzag 
course its varied irregularities. 





I 2 3 4 

Enqr-aved expressly Jor Bachelder's " Popular Resorts, and How to Reach Th 

1. Lehigh Valley 

Railroad. 

2. Susquehanna. 



SOLOMON'S GAP. 



3. Ashley. 

4. Stationary Engine and 
Railroad '' Plane." 



POPUI>AK KKSOKTS, AND HOW TO KKACU THEM. 163 

We enter the gorge, mid turn to the right, while across the valley can 
be seen the line of the "Lehigh Valley" Road, which, having kept us 
company from Bethlehem, now turns around the point to the left, to 
meet us twenty minutes later at the town below. The view from a 
half-mile below Solomon's Gap is remarkable. (See engraving.) Its 
composition varies so decidedly from any witnessed in the I^ehigh ^'al- 
ley, that it always awakens feelings of surprise and awe. Here, sui-- 
rounded by scenes of the wildest grandeur, the beautiful Wyoming 
N'alley bursts like a flood of light suddenly upon you. The tiain glides 
smoothly on, the scene unfolds, and we ai'e soon at Ashley, near the foot 
of the mountain. 

From Ashley, ninety miles from Easton, the " Nanticote Branch Rail- 
road " extends twelve miles to Nanticote, on the Susquehanna River. 
^V'■ilkes Barre, ninety-nine miles from Easton, is located in Luzerne 
County, in the Valley of Wyoming, on the north branch of the Susque- 
hanna. At this place visitors to the " North Mountain House " change 
to the " Lackawanna and Bloomsburg " Road ; but it will be better to 
spend the night at Wilkes Barre. Fortunately they will find at the 
'• Wyoming Valley Hotel " a house i-eplete with every thing necessaiy for 
the comfort of guests. It is pleasantly located on the banks of the Sus- 
quehanna, of which it commands some charming views. 

The town of AVilkes Barre possesses historical associations of rare 
interest : its tragic deeds have oft been the theme of the historian's pen 
and the poet's muse. It is also a well-built town, and its surroundings 
are pleasant; and it will, withal, prove an interesting place of sojourn 
for tourists. 

From Pittston, nine miles above Wilkes Barre, the road leaves the Sus- 
quehanna, and follows the course of the Lackawanna twelve miles, 
through Scranton to Green Ridge, where it connects with the " Delaware 
and Hudson Railroad " for Cooperstown, Sharon, and Saratoga Springs, 
Albany, Lake George, Lake Champlain. JNIontreal, &c. 

" From New York anrl Philadelphia, the tourist to Saratoga, \V' atkins 
Glen, Niagara Falls, and the West is, by this route, transported through 
a wild and picturesijue region, comparatively unknown to tourists. Much 
of the scenery is unlike that of any other section of the country; and, if 
only to gain a knowledge of the operation of the mammoth collieries of 
Pennsjivania, which have been scarcely alluded to in this article, it will 
amply repay an excursion on the ' Central Railroad of New Jersey,' its 
connections and branches.'' 



164 



POPULAK RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



If the tourist contemplates a through trip from Philadelphia or New 
York by the route described, Scranton will be found the natural place to 
spend the night ; and for this purpose, or longer, good accommodations 
will be found at the Lackawanna Valley or " Wyoming " Hotels, 




LACKAWANNA VALLEY HOUSE. 

Three railway lines centre at Scranton, — the Lehigh and Susque- 
hanna, over which we have come ; the Delaware, Lackawanna, and 
Western; and the Lackawanna and Bloomsburg. In addition is the 
Pennsylvania Coal Company's Gravity Railroad, of which a fuller de- 
scription will be given. 

A half-hour's drive into the suburbs along a romantic and pictur- 
esque road leads to a deep canon, which the writer has christened 
Scranton Gorge, through which rushes a wild, turbulent stream, 
hemmed in by towering trees, and bounded by ramparts of stone, popularly 
known as Roaring Brook. As its name suggests, and from the descrip- 
tion already given, the reader will see that this is one of those romantic 
dells always pleasing to the lover of Nature in her wildest moods. The 
stream, which is of the purest water, comes frolicking down the moim- 
tain side, now leaping some slight obstruction or miniature cascade ; 
now, overhung by rock or vine, it moves lazily along, till at last the 
brink is reached, and, with a startled leap, down it springs, a beautiful 
cascade, into the shadowy depths of Scranton Gorge. To this an Indian 
name is given : they call it Nayaug Palls. 




Kngraamil ex/ireimlu/or Itacheliler's " Fopultir Resorts, and Huw to Reach J hem." 

NAYAUG FALLS, SCRANTON GORGE. 
Near Scranton, Penn. 



166 



POPUX,AK KESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



But Scranton's great attraction is the " Switchback," over Moosic 
Mountain and the Highlands beyond, via the Pennsylvania Coal Com- 
pany's road, from Scranton to Hawley on the Delaware, thirty-five miles 
distant. This is the longest gravity road in the world. As a pleasure 
route it is comparatively new, and is so entirely unlike ordinary j)leasure 
routes that it is sure to become one of the attractions of this region. 
Preceding its description, the reader should have a brief history of this 
remarkable road, which, although in character not of unusual construc- 
tion in the mining regions, is elsewhere of very uncommon occurrence. 





Although it has for 
man\ jeais formed 
m impoitant link 
m the s-ystem of 
coil tr mspoitation 
m Penns\lvania, its 
lii>tor\ abroad is \eiy limited 
Stiuigris M^itni^ Scranton 
muiitfstel buch interf-^t in it 
th„t the Ki„nagement deter 

1 , 1 i J.U 4.„ „ J Engraved expressly for BachelderS" Popular KesorU,aH,l 

mined to shorten the route, and '' "^ How to Reach nem." 

place excursion cars on the switchback railroad, moosic highlands, 

tracks to accommodate them. Scranton, Penn. 

To increase the facilities for coal-transportation to market, it became 
necessary to construct a railroad from Scranton thirty miles across a 
mountainous country to the village of Hawley. To (jracle such a road for 
locomotive use was found simply impracticable ; but the difficulty was 
overcome by erecting stationary engines on the summits of the moun- 



popui.au uksobts, and now to keach them. 



1«7 



tains ; from these a broad iron band extends down, and attaches to the 
car ; by this you are drawn to the mountain top, from which the road 
again descends on the opposite slope, not direct, but following at an 
angle along the side, falling at easy grade, governed safely by the brake. 
The descent on the opposite side is frequently by a circuitous route 
of many miles. When fully made, and another mountain reached, the 
cars are drawn up this as before, and again descend. And so by nine- 
teen planes the route is passed for thirty-five nnJes and back. To the 
uninitiated the first thouglit will be danger. The best answer is, that 
in many years of constant use for passenger travel (for since its con- 
struction it has been used as such by the local inhabitants), not an 
accident has occurred. The same machinery that lifts the light cars 
with living freight constantly draws six loaded coal cars of more than 
ten times the wei"-ht. 




Engravetl e.nn-rss/i/ rnr fiachelder's " I'oimlm- Resort^, ami lluw In liriirh Tliem." 
JONES LAKE, SWITCHBACK RAILROAD. 
The most attractive section of this route is between Plane No. at 
Dunmore, at which station tourists usually embark, and No. 19 near that 



168 



I'OPULAB RESORTS, AND HOW TO JiEACH THEM. 



charming little sheet of water, Jones Lake. Plane No. 19 is only 
fourteen miles distant, and is on the return route from Ilawley; but it is 
reached by a connecting track, allowing tourists, when they desire, to 
cross to Jones Lake, and have several hours at this delightful spot while 
the balance of the train has completed the entire trip to Ilawley and 
back. 



Moosic Mountain, or Moosic HU/hlands, as the section crossed by 
the " Switchback " Railroad is commonly termed, is a spur of the Blue 
Ridge. The line of the road passes beyond over an undulating country 
to the Delaware River at Ihnc/c//, intersecting with cars and canal for 
the Hudson cid Port Jervis. The outward trip is by the " loaded track." 
as it is tei-med, as the coal-cars go by it loaded; the "light track" is 
that by which we return. 

Language fails to describe the singular sensation produced by a ride on 
these cars. If in winter we coast down the slippery hillside, or if in 
summer we " scud before the wind " in a sail-boat, the mind, from early 
associations, has been prepared for the sport; but this is a new expe- 
rience which cannot fail to |)lease. 

The " first 
sensation " ex- 
perienced by 
the tourist is 
while ascend- 
ing Plane No. 
6. from Dun- 
more. The 
signal is given, 
and the cars 
start with a 
throb. Up, up 
they go above 
the village, 
above the tree- 
tops, above the 
checkered city 
which now lies 
at your feet, Wyoming house. 

above the broad valley, each moment opening wider to view, and through 
which in tortuous course winds the Lackawanna, above the mountains 
on your right and left, till the whole landscape gradually unrolls, and 
like a map lies spread out before you. This sensation is so magical, 
so exhilarating, that it rises above the ordinary forms of description. 




POPULAR RESORTS, AND MOW TO REACH THEM. 169 

Between Dunmore and Jones Lake there are seven inclined planes, each 
two thousand feet in length, and each having- an elevation of two hun- 
dred feet. At least two of them are usually overcome before the tourist 
has settled himself down for a full appreciation of the situation, and he 
is then prepared to enjoy the novelty of the scene. 

DELAWARE AND HUDSON CANAL COMPANY'S RAILROADS. 

From Scranton the route continues past Green Rid^e, the terminus of 
the Central New Jersey's leased road, the Lehigh and Susquehanna 
Railroad, and Carbondale, a city of marked enterprise and thrift, to the 
junction of the Mneveh Branch with the Albany and Susquehanna 
Railroad. Although the scenery from Philadelphia and New York to 
Scranton varies continually, and presents new charms with every mile 
of road, that from Scranton to this place will be found exceedingly 
attractive. After being whirled along a route hemmed in by scenes of 
the wildest grandeur, it is a relief to change to pleasing landscape, 
where the lines melt in harmony, and are clothed with the picturesque. 

The train on the " Albany and Susquehanna " with which we inter- 
sect is from Binghamton, with imssengers from that city, Elmira, Wat- 
kins Glen, and the West, en route to the same points of interest to which 
we are bound. 

Our route in a north-easterly direction lies along the banks of the 
Susquehanna, whose placid waters move lazily on in remarkable contrast 
to the turbulent Lehigh, up which we have so recently passed. We 
cross and recross the stream as we glide onward through this fruitful 
agricultui'al region, — a fine rolling country with broad fields sweeping 
down to the river-banks, dotted here and there w ith thrifty farm-houses, 
and interspei'sed with flourishing villages. 

Cooperstown, on a branch road to the left, will next attract the 
attention of the tourist. 

" This popular resort is the comity seat of Otsego County, N.Y., and 
is situated at the south end of Otsego Lake. It is one of the literary 
Meccas of America ; for here was the home of J. Fenimore Cooper, and 
in these scenes he wrote those wonderful American stories, which the 
English-reading world have placed on a level of popularity with the 
undying fictions of Walter Scott. In his ' Deerslayer,' he describes 
the lake and surrounding hills. A late guide-book says, * The same 
points still exist which " Leather-Stocking " saw. There is the same 
beauty of verdure along the hills ; and the sun still glints as brightly as 
then the ripples of the clear water.' The whole region is full of interest, 
because of the creations of Cooper's genius ; and his romances have a 
new zest and beauty when read amid the scenes that inspired them. 



170 POI'UI.AK KESOBTS, AND UOW TO REACH THEM. 

The surroundings of the hike are all beautiful ; and the entire region is 
full of interest. In close proximity are several favorite resorts accessible 
by a small steamer which runs on the lake, which is widely famed for 
its bass and pickerel fishing." 

Two miles out from the village is IlannaJi's Hill, made celebrated 
by the great novelist Cooper, as a summit furnishing the most be- 
witching of scenery, the beautiful lakes of his mucli-loved Cumberland 
scarcely competing with them. It is also said, that the name "Hannah" 
was given in compliment to Cooper, it being the name of his favorite 
daaghter. 

From this elevation, only two miles eastward from the village, is seen 
Mount \'ision overlooking the enchanting Otsego Lnle, of which Cooper sang 
in cliarming prose verse, " A broad sheet of water, so limpid and placid 
that it resembled a bed of the pure mountain atmosphere compressed into 
a setting of hills and woods. Nothing is wanted but ruined castles and 
recollections, to raise it to the level of the Rhine." 

Near Hannah's Hill is Leather- Stocking Cave, only a mile and a half 
fromtlie village; and Leather- Stocking Falls, or The Panther's Leap, is at the 
top of a wild gorge near by, and at the liead of Otsego Lake. Council 
liock is a mile or two on, a round-topped surface, five feet high, where 
the Indian tribes of "long ago" were given to meet, and form their 
treaties. 

The Cooper House furnishes first class accommodations to tourists who 
may visit this beautiful village and its many iH>ints of interest in the 
neighborhood. '• The Susqiu'hanna River takes its rise in Otsego Lake, 
and after winding through forest defiles, across broad meadow lands, 
past rural hamlets and pretentious cities, for nearly four hundred miles 
in a southerly direction, finally rushes through the outstretched arms of 
Chesapeake Bay into the welcome bosom of the Atlantic Ocean." 
Coo/xr's M()nu)nent forms a lasting memorial of a great man, and is a 
silent reminder that the visitor treads historic ground. 

Richfield Springs. — " These springs, long and favorably known, 
are in Otsego County, N.Y., in the vicinity of Cooperstown, and seven 
miles distant from Otsego Lake, which is one of the sources of the Su.s- 
ipiehanna. The great river of Pennsylvania here extends his .arms, and 
iut\Yines his fingers with the tributaries of the Mohawk, as if to divert 
that gentle river from its allegiance to the Hudson. The village of Rich- 
Held Springs is situated on a narrow plain near the head of Schuyler's 
Lake, which is five miles in length, and a mile and a quarter at its 
greatest breadth. This little lake is surrounded with high hills on every 
side except the nortliAvard; and, being but a mile from the springs, 
forms the jirincipal attraction for visitors. According to tradition, the 



rOPULAIt UKSOUTS, AND HOW TO KKAOH IIIKM. 171 

waters of these springs were sought for their meclicinal virtues, hy the 
Indiiius, long befox-e the advent of the white men. A healing ])r(>phet 
of the Iroquois dwelt on an island in the midst of the lake ; and the suf- 
fering came to him, to be cured by the waters he secured at night and 
conveyed secretly to his retreat. But the Great Spirit became angered 
at his pride, and sunk him and his island beneath the deep waters." 

These springs may also be reached by rail cia l)elawar(\ Lackawanna, 
and Western Railroad. 

Returning to the main line of the " Albany and Susquehanna," the 
road continues to follow the same interesting valley, with water views, 
hills, and rich cultivated scenery on either side. The country has an 
inviting look. At Cobles Kill Junction the " ('hcrry Valley Branch " 
train is in waiting to take us to Sharon Springs, fourteen miles 
to the left. 

This famous summer resort is in Scoharie County, and has since 1880 
maintained its full share of popular favor. The village of Sharon is a 
mile or two from the station, with coaches in constant attendance ; and 
during the "season " the hurry and excitement of getting off is just suf- 
ficient to spice the occasion, and gives us a reminder of the days when 
this pojjular place was reached entirely by stages, as are most of the 
Virginia springs at this time. Sharon seems to be located in and 
around a valley scooped out of the northern face of a ridge of land. 
Although in a valley you are still on a hill, as can be best seen from the 
broad veranda of the Pavilion Hotel, which, facing the north, com- 
mands one of the most extensive and satisfactory views known in the 
State, — the rich valley of the Mohawk bounded by mountain chains in 
blue, rising in the north, extending even to the Adirondacks, and the 
Green Mountains of Vermont. 

The immediate location of the springs is in a ravine hemmed in by 
vine-clad precipices hundreds of feet high. Among stately groves of 
primitive trees, serpentine walks and rustic seats add to the cultivated 
charms of the scene; but the great attraction and wonder is the springs, 
five in number, chalybeate, white sulphur, blue 8ul))lHir, magnesia, 
and pure water, all of which gush from the ground within a few feet 
of each other, and form the great attraction which annually fills this 
romantic village. 

Having returned to the Albany and Susquehanna main line, we are in 
close proximity to one of the most noble natural curiosities in the land, 
— Howe's Cave ; and yet so little is known of it abroad th.it the tour- 
ist may find it difficult, even a few miles away, to gain any reliable 
information about this wonderful freak of nature. 

Howe's Cave is within a gunshot of the station of the same name, 
and is said to be the second in size in the United States. It is esti- 



172 



POPULAB RESORTS, AND IIOW TO REACH THE>f. 



mated to be eight miles long, with many portions yet unexplored. The 
author, in company with a party of ladies, visited the first two miles 
of it in 1874 with the most satisfactory results. Being somewhat pressed 
for time, and not having taken this " stop " into account, the thought 
occurred that this cavern could be visited as well at night as by day; 
and it was arranged to spend the night at the Cave House, which, by 
the way, we found one of the most homelike places on our tour. 




CAVE HOUSE, HOWE'S CAVE. 

The house is built of stone, finished in hard wood, with accommo- 
dations and appointments so comfortable and chaste, and grounds so 
well kept, that it seems more like a private villa than a public hotel. 
The size is its only drawback, and it will doubtless be enlarged to meet 
the increasing demands of travel. It will always be safe, however, to 
stop over a train, which will allow time for dinner, and to examine the 
cave, and by previous arrangement longer stop could be made if desired. 

We visited it in the evening ; the passage for the first three-fourths 
of a mile was lighted by gas (I think the only cave that is so lighted). 
And here it may be said, that to this point any person, lady or gentle- 



POPULAR UESORTS, AND HOW I'O KKACH THEM. 173 

man, can go, who is physically able to make the same distance on a coun- 
try road artificially lighted. Beyond that it is more difficult, thou,s;h the 
ladies of our party found no trouble. Generally, it is comparatively dry 
walking, in places wet, and inclined to be slippery on the moistened 
clay, for which reason a heavy leather boot is preferable to rubber. 

The entrance is not from, but in close proximity to, the house, and is 
by a descending stairway to the " Reception- Room," an apartment of 
considerable dimensions. It possesses an even temperature of sixty 
degrees the entire year, rendering it comparatively warm in winter, and 
delightfully cool in summer. There is good air, with free circulation. 

The floorway to the lake, about three-fourths of a mile, has been 
improved, and is comparatively level ; and along this section, also, several 
artificial cuttings have greatly facilitated the passage. The cave is 
nowhere for any considerable distance of the same dimensions. It 
lowers in places until you are glad you are no taller than you are, then 
widens and increases in height until the top is lost in obscurity, and can 
only be measured by a string attaclu'd to a lighted hot-air balloon. 

Among the names given to different localities are "The Reception 
Room," "Washington Hall," "Bridal Chamber," " Chapel," " Harlequin 
Tunnel," " Cataract Hall," " Ghost-Room, or Haunted Castle," " Music 
Hall," " Stygian or Crystal Lake," across which you are ferried. Be- 
yond the lake are •' Plymouth Rock," " Devil's Gateway," " Museum," 
" Geological Rooms," " Uncle Tom's Cabin," " Giant's Study," " Pirate's 
Cave," " Rocky JNIouutains," " Valley of Jehoshaphat," " Winding Way," 
and " Rotunda." These are among the names given to different sec- 
tions by Mr. Howe the discoverer, or by visitors. Stalactites and stalag- 
mites are everywhere to be seen. A stream of running water comes 
from the cave. This is influenced by the seasons, and is subject to 
rapid rises and heavy floods, sweejiing with it every movable thing 
left therein. Indeed, this phenomenon has been utilized to clear the 
cavern of surplus earth and other debris. There are several side pas- 
sages yet unexplored, in which the sound of running water can be 
heard. Howe's Cave possesses the advantage of easy access, only thirty- 
nine miles from the city of Albany, on the line of a prominent rail- 
road, and within a gunshot of one of its stations; and, with good hotel 
accommodations, it is not surjirising that it is now receiving so much 
attention. There are other and smaller caves in this vicinity, but this 
was only recently discovered ; and, for considerable time, Mr. Howe's 
familiarity with such scenes caused him to forget that what might be 
so simple a thing to him would be a curiosity of great interest to 
others. And it is only of recent date that ])reparations have been made 
to accommodate all who come. Tourists will also be glad to learn that 
this cavern is located in the midst of bi-autiful scenerv, sufficient of 



174 POPULAR KESOKTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

itself to attract attention. The reader will have seen that this entire 
region, since we struck the " Albany and Susquehanna," is admirably 
adapted to summer recreations. This may be said particularly of 
Schoharie. 

This place is the county seat of Schoharie County, N.Y., and is 
located thirty-three miles from Albany, in one of the loveliest and 
most picturesque valleys of the Empire State. Its splendid drives 
along the banks of the Schoharie River, and its mountain scenery, is 
unsurpassed. From the top of the Sager-AVarner Mountain, four miles 
east of the village, the tourist has spread out to view an extent of terri- 
tory as far as the eye can reach. To the south he sees the Catskill 
Alountains, to the north the Adirondacks, to the east the Green Moun- 
tains of Vermont, and to the west a vast expanse of hill and dale. 
Three miles to the Avest of Schoharie is located the famous Howe's 
Cave. Sharon Springs is but twenty miles from Schoharie, and Saratoga 
Springs but twenty-six miles. A trip can be made by rail to either of 
these places, and return the same day. Two good hotels in the village 
are specially adapted for summer visitors. The Parrott House accom- 
modates about a hundred and twenty guests, and "Wood's Hotel seventy- 
five. Three express trains per day each way connect Schoharie with 
the city of Albany. With a population of eighteen hundred, four 
churches, an academy, and choice society, it is not surprising that the 
place is filled by visitors every summer, especially when the cost of 
living is less than half AAhat it would be in the city. 

Continuing east from Howe's Cave or Schoharie, the tourist can go 
direct to Albany, connecting with the Hudson River boats or cars for 
New York, the Boston and Albany Railroad for Boston, or continue up 
the river to Troy or Saratoga. The scenery by this line is a continua- 
tion of the same pleasing succession of landscapes along which we have 
passed, station after station gliding by without special attraction. Near 
New Scotland is located Lawson's Lake, which will command the atten- 
tion of the curious. The outlet of this sheet of water sinks, and passes 
for a mile and a half through a subterranean passage, or cavern. In 
formation it possesses the characteristics of all the caves for which this 
region is noted. Stalactites and stalagmites abound. There are several 
caverns in this neighborhood, varying in size, one of which was formerly 
occupied by a band of smugglers. The more direct route to Saratoga is 
to go from Howe's Cave via Schenectady. This "branch" diverges to 
the left from Quulcr Street, leading north-east down into the valley of 
the Mohawk. At Schenectady the route crosses the line of the Central 
New York Railroad, continuing to Ballston and Saratoga. 



POPUI-AK RKSORTS, AND HOW TO KF:ACH TIIKM. 175 

Saratoga Springs, N.Y. — Elsewhere, very brief allusion is made 
to Saratoga and to Niagara Falls. These famous places are so well 
known and generally understood, that any special account of their pecu- 
liarities would seem to be unnecessary and superfluous. Possibly, how- 
ever, more particular notice may be desirable by some who read this 
work, to aid in deciding '• Where am I to go '.■' " in vacation time, and who 
wish to consider the whole field. Saratoga Springs may be visited from 
New York City, either by the Hudson River to Albany, or by the New 
York Central Railroad ; and a new and very desirable route, from the 
romantic scenery it passes, is cin Central Railroad of New Jersey, 
through Mauch Chunk, Wilkesbarre, Scranton, &c. (see description of 
Central Railroad of New Jersey) ; or from Boston, — circuitous but 
diversified and charming routes, — by various railroads ; those from the 
Fitchburg, the Boston and Albany, and the Lowell passing through every 
description of inhabited, rural, and mountainous regions, and therefore 
to be preferred. Taking either of these initial jwints as the starting- 
place, ample novelties will invite one's leisure throughout the distances 
travelled. The chief places of special interest found by the New York 
line of travel have already been noted. The sw'eep around the country 
required by the Boston start is rich in natural and artificial wonders. 
Commencing at either of the named Boston stations, the first hour passes 
in the midst of delightful towns and villages, which are mere tributaries 
of Boston, and are sustained by, and aid to sustain, the great " Hub." 
Here are residences of perfect taste, and surrounded by rural charms, 
filling the minds of visitors with continued pleasure. Some of the places 
through which the lines of travel pass are renowned in Colonial and 
Revolutionary histories. Those routes which converge at Fitchburg 
diverge again towards Saratoga Springs, Niagara Falls, the Adirondacks, 
Lake George, the White Mountains of New Hampshire, and the health- 
ful quietudes of the Green Mountains of Vermont. Whichever course 
is preferred, the enthusiasm of the refined traveller constantly warms 
and renews as the glory and splendor of sunnner verdure, of hills, val- 
leys, mradows, purling sti-eams, and co.sey homes, — all speeding by like 
the flight of birds, — bi-eak upon the vision in ever-varying novelty and 
freshness. It may well be remarked here, that no veteran of the road 
ever prepares for a pleasure jaunt witliout first procuring tables of rail- 
road and water lines of communication, and thoroughly mastering his 
coui'se of march and how he will proceed. He then secures his through 
ticket, and is prepared to enjoy his pleasure campaign, without the flutter 
and annoyance of constant doubt as to whither he is moving, and where 
any change of base should be made. J^adies, especially, ought to ponder 
this hint. 

Should your course from Boston be towards Niagara Falls or the Adi- 



176 POPULAR KESOKTS, AND HOW TO REACH THKM. 

rondacks or Quebec, your departure is made from Fitchburg by a diiferent 
line from the one to be chosen if the aim be for the mountain regions of 
New Hampshire or Vermont. This the intelligent reader will readily 
understand. Of course, should you curve around towards the populous 
State of New York, the chief features of the country will be studded by 
characteristics of man's busy industry and aggregation into communities. 
But in the sparsely settled States of New Hampshire and Vermont, 
Nature still reigns in undisturbed stillness, and in the full beauty and 
bloom of her pristine charms. 

Having decided, then, by what ways you will approach, say, Saratoga 
Springs, and having reached that fashionable Mecca at last, what are you 
to do? What is is there to be "done"? Simply nothing, or nearly 
that, except to drink water from one or all of the thirty odd medicinal 
springs of the place, and be fashionable, according to the sickly senti- 
mentality of that health restoring and destroying spot. 

" Like Newport by the sea, Saratoga is often called the Queen of Amer- 
ican watering-places; and this dual sovereignty is generally acknowl- 
edged. The hotel system of Saratoga is imri vailed elsewhere in the world ; 
and, although equal to the accommodation of eighteen thousand guests, 
it is taxed to its utmost capacity in the month of August (the season 
opens early in June). Broadway is the main street, and extends for sev- 
eral miles, with the chief hotels near its centre, and a succession of costly 
villas beyond. The village is at its brightest in August, when it is 
thronged with visitors, and thousands of private and public carriages 
join in the parade of fashion on Broadway and the boulevard. During 
the 'height of the season,' the crowds to be seen in all public i^laces, 
the brilliant balls at the grand hotels, the music of excellent bands, and 
the many other excitements always prevailing, — make up a scene pi'ob- 
ably unequalled in the world." 

The whole sum of natural scenery, worthy of a walk or ride, afforded 
by the Saratoga Springs area, is surpassed by almost any rural resort of 
our land. If the springs were to dry up, the birds of fashionable plumage 
would flit forever, and the whole of that now populous and prosperous 
resort would "dry up" as well. 

While approaching Saratoga, and within an easy radius of that place, 
the lover of old stories and romantic adventures may find abundant food 
for contemplation , in hunting up the many historic fields of wilderness 
campaigns, renowned in the quaint old primitive days. Encounters between 
our Colonial ancestors and the French and Indians, — extending from 
Canada, over wilderness and lake, on to Saratoga itself, — with their 
startling and bloody incidents, fill the mind with a strange fascination. 
Every schoolboy knows the story, especially the last scene, when the 
boastful Burgoyne surrendered to the sturdy patriots under Gates. 



POPULAB RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 177 

The opening of that portion of the New York and Canada Railroad 
which admits of direct rail communication from Saratof/a to Ticonderoga 
via Whitehall will preclude the necessity of running boa,ts between 
Whitehall and Ticonderoga as heretofore, which will only go to Ticon- 
deroga; and the branch road between that place and Lake George 
will do away with the stage-line by which tourists have been transferred 
from one lake to the other. The fine scenery along this new line of 
road, the magnificent water views which it affords on the right, as you 
move north, the rich vai'iety of landscape on the left, with its deep cuts, 
lieavy fills, and rugged mountain scenes, will present entirely new attrac- 
tions to the traveller. The historic associations of Ticonderoga will 
command the attention of visitors, who will frequently " lay over " at 
least one trip to study the relics of the past. From this point they may 
continue by rail to Lake George, only four miles away, or embark on 
the magnificent palace-boats for a sail on Lake Champlain. 

Lake George. — " Few, if any, among the numerous picturesque 
lakes in America are more beautiful or more celebrated than this, which 
lies between the Counties of Washington and Warren, in the State of 
New York, and is thirty-six miles long, varying in breadth from three- 
quarters of a mile to four miles, and in many places is four hundred feet 
in depth. It is in the midst of mountains ; and popular belief credits it 
with islands equal in number to the days of the year. History, as well 
as tradition, lingers around it, marking many spots with more than ordi- 
nary interest. Not the least among these are the ruins of Fort William 
Henry and Fort George (the former now occupied by a splendid summer 
hotel). Sir William Johnson, prompted by his loyalty, named it Lake 
(Jeorge, after one of the Georges of Great Britain ; and this title has 
been permitted to remain as its designation. A writer, describing the 
many attractions of the lake, says, ' It has something of interest for 
every one, — the lover of history, of romance, of beauty, and lovers 
generally.' " 

The sail across this lake is an experience of delightful remembrance. 
Lake George with its surroundings seems a fairy land of wonderful fas- 
cinations. Its points and inlets, its charmingly attractive shores and 
islands, are admirably adapted to facilitate the pleasures of a camping- 
out party, where the weary of body and mind, or the despondent and 
languid invalid, and no less the strong and healthful, will find mind and 
body invigorated, and the soul elevated, by a sojourn among the pic- 
turesque beauties of this lovely lake. 

Several of the islands are inhabited, and others contain ornamental 
structures for summer amusements. On the shores of the lake are sev- 
eral popular resorts and many private villas. After Fort William Henry 



178 POPULAR RESOKTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

Hotel, Crosby Side, Recluse Island, &c., are among the more attractive 
features as you sail down the lake. 

The tourist who would continue his visit from Saratoga or Lake 
George to the White Mountains, via Burlington, to Montreal, Quebec, 
or the Adirondacks, will embark on one of the magnificent lake steam- 
ers at Ticonderoga. 

Lake Champlain. — " This useful as well as beautiful sheet of 
water lies between the States of New York and Vermont, and extends a 
short distance into Canada. It is, in extreme length, about one hundred 
and thirty miles, and varies in width from half a mile to fifteen miles, 
the water, in places, being near three hundred feet deep. The Vermont 
shores of the lake are generally fertile and well cultivated ; while those 
of New York are wild, rocky, and barren, rising into vast mountains. 
and contain rich iron deposits. 

" The shores of Lake Champlain are not only interesting in them- 
selves, but they hold many places of celebrity and attractiveness. The 
ruins of old Fort Ticonderoga stand out upon a high, rocky cliff at the 
confluence of the outlet of Lake George with Lake Champlain. The 
remains of the fortress at Crown Point loom up opposite to Chimney 
Point. The localities where Burgoyne held his famous Indian council, 
and made his treaty, and where Arnold fought with Carleton, are pointed 
out. Plattsburg, the scene of the battles on the 11th of September, 
1814, in which Commodore McDonough gained his signal naval victory, 
and Gen. Macomb compelled Sir George Prevost to retire into Canada, 
is the most conspicuous and interesting point on the lake. Numerous 
natural curiosities exist on its islands and shores ; but space will not 
permit their mention here. Burlington, a beautiful city on the Vermont 
shore, is well worth the attention of tourists. From Plattsburg the 
Adirondacks are reached with facility; and it is a starting-point for 
Au Sable Chasm, oiie of the most remarkable curiosities in the United 
States." 

Those northward bound continue to Rouse's Point, from which 
they can go to Montreal and Quebec, visit the noted springs in Vermont, 
or turn to the west through a wild region to Ogdensburg, and thence by 
boats to Alexandria Bay and the Thousand Islands, and so on to Niagara. 

The Adirondacks of Ne"W York have sprung into sudden and 
universal fame and favoritism. The region has all the novelty of a 
primeval land, diversified by every variety of landscape and unsearched 
solitudes ; and has the freshness and rare American novelty of guides, 
who alone know the secret of this new paradise. 

The atmosphere is remarkably pure, and free from malarious poisons 



I'OPUr^AR KESOItTS, AND HOW TO KKACII TUIOM. 179 

and from chilling damps, so that sudden colds and tormenting fever- 
heats are scarcely known. At present the Adirondacks may boast solely 
of its primitive charms ; but the region will, it may be feared, be mate- 
rially altered in tliis respect ere long, as visitors are annually numbered 
by thousands. 

To ladies claiming invalid propensities, or to those disposed to shrink 
from rough adventure or the hardships of the explorers, this wild tract 
is, perhaps, totally uninviting ; but for the novelties of camp-life, and 
utter freedom of conventional rules, it is all that can be desired. 

The region is to be found in the northern portion of the State, a wil- 
derness of immense tract, occupying space equal in area to the entire 
State of Connecticut. 

There are several routes by which this wilderness may be entered ; the 
most popular, because it is most flavored of adventure, is by way of 
Lake Champlain. Leaving the boat at Port Kent, a post-coacli conveys 
the traveller by plank road to Keeseville, from whence he will follow 
along the Au Sable Ricer twelve miles, arriving at Au Sable Forks; and 
at that point, if he has the mountains particularly in view, he will 
direct his course south, leaving the Saranac Lake region to the west. 

On the way from Keeseville, about a mile and a half off, the A n Sable 
River furnishes to the traveller on this route the first natural wonder of 
the Adirondacks, — a leap of nearly thirty feet into a semicircular basin 
of great beauty ; and this is only the beginning of a series of the wildest 
of river falls, cascades, and jagged rocks. The walls of the Au Sable 
vaiy in rocky height, rising from ninety to a hundred and twenty-five 
feet. One of its precipices resembles Niagara, leading off the river to a 
course one hundred and fifty feet below, into scenery of intense wild- 
ness, equalling in miniature the picturesqueness of America's greatest 
fall. It is thus followed up to its source, forming on its way a chain of 
grandeur and frequent surprises, rivalling any thing east of the Rocky 
Mountains. 

Having reached the Lakes Upper and Loioer Au Sable, the traveller 
finds himself completely at the heart of mountain and forest surround- 
ings. Here in this savage gorge, the wildest part of the Adirondacks, 
the Hudson River takes its rise. The main stream of the Au Sable 
flows from the north-east, the Hudson south-west, and each from the 
locally known as Indian Pass. 

If the visitor prefers a less toilsome journey to this point, starting from 
the village of ^m Sable. Forks, he can, instead of following up the river 
on foot or with guide and boat, turn off into a road thi-ough the village 
of Jay and on by Wilmington, moving south througli the John Broivn 
Region on to White Face or Wihninf/ton Notch. This range, although 
practically ])elonging under the Adirondack title, is somewhat distmct. 



180 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

being a sort of " branch range." Blue Mountain, Dix's Peak, Nippleton, 
Core Hill, Moor Mountain, White Face, and other grand peaks, belong to 
this group. White Face is the most northern, and, with the exception 
of Mount Marci/ its neighbor, tlie loftiest of this wilderness of crests. 

The traveller will prefer here to move by land rather than by water; 
for although the lakes are numerous, and guides and boats easily ob- 
tained, it is among the hills that the chief attractions are found. Hav- 
ing laid aside ordinary travelling costume, and donned backwoods 
garments, he is ready for his figlit. 

The monarch of the glen, Mount Mar cy, or Tahamus ("the cloud- 
splitter "), is 5,467 feet high. The trail to the summit of this mountain 
is twelve miles, an- exceedingly toilsome ascent. Mount Mclntire, near 
by, has an elevation almost as great; Dial, McMartin, and Colden are also 
very lofty; and the ravines, lakes, and waterfalls to be seen from them 
are inexhaustible. 

Many of tlie wild animals of our northern latitude — the bear, wolf, 
and wildcat — abound; with several A^aluable fur animals, — otter, mink, 
and muskrat. Hunters and trappers are occasionally to be met, although 
there are no settlements of any account. These men are always ready 
to act as guides, either to tramp the mountains, or navigate the lakes for 
pickerel, or the streams for trout. Ten or twelve years ago, moose and 
deer were plenty, but now are rarely fovmd. At Mount Seward, the most 
inaccessible of all the mountains, the American panther is fre(]uently 
found. 

Having satisfied himself with the mountain research, wearied of the 
continual hard climbing, and the weird wildness of it all, the traveller 
may turn with a certain feehng of relief towards the more subdued re- 
gion in which the lakes abound. 

Lake Colden, about six miles west of Mount Marcy, lies abnost at the 
outskirts of the Wilmington Notch: it is a lovely, placid sheet, "per- 
fectly embosomed amid gigantic mountains, and looking, for all the 
world, like an innocent child sleeping in a robber's embrace." 

Beyond Colden, is Avalanche Lake, around which stand Wallfacc, 
Mclntire, and McMartin. 

Leaving these behind, the start may be for the valley of the Saranac, 
by way of North Elba, stopping perhaps to visit the John Brown Farm, 
and the bowlder by which the old hero was buried. Stages are in wait- 
ing to convey passengers over to Baker^s and Blood's Inns, which are to 
be seen as the Lower Saranac is approached, about twelve miles ofE. 
Guides with their boats can be obtained here by those who wish to enter 
the forest and river streams suiTounding the lakes. Excellent fishing is 
found on Rai/ Brook and other tributaries of the Saranacs. 

The favorite trip, next to tlie easy excursions among the islands and 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 181 

bays of the lakes, is to Lake Placid. It is two miles north of the vil- 
lage, and is the most charming of all the Adirondack resorts. 

Paradox Pond is near by, and has an inexplicable tidal flow to and 
from the lake. Schroon and Branch Lakes, a few miles south, are famous 
sheets of water, and are often approached by sportsmen. 

Round Lake, midway between Upper and Lower Saranac, connecting 
the two by means of narrow streams branching out from either side, is 
a little lake gem of unusual beauty. It is round, as its name implies, 
about four miles in diameter, and surrounded by hills under whose 
shadows it sleeps in placid loveliness. This lake will well repay the 
traveller for a week of study. It will not satiate by a never-changing 
calm, or weary the visitor with continued restlessness; for, like the sen- 
sitive-plant, it seems to be a thing of the tropics, and away oif in this 
wild country out of its element. Still and peaceful in the warm sun- 
light, as if never disturbed, the little islands dotting it with picturesque 
verdure, it will suddenly, in answer to turbulent wind, ruffle itself, and 
appear strong and defiant in character, in sublime contrast to its restful 
mood. 

In all this lake country will be found, one after another, in quick suc- 
cession as it were, almost numberless streams, pools, ponds, and lakes. 
Going twenty-six miles south-west from Upper Saranac, will be found 
Bi[i T upper Lake, which, as if Nature were much pleased with its arrange- 
ment of the Saranacs, is in imitation thereof; for it is connected to its 
sister, Little Tupper, by a river stream, and also Round Pond, which, less 
beautiful tlian the lake its namesake, was allowed to imitate only in less 
pretentious title. 

The Tappers are but seldom visited, on account of remoteness; but 
they afford excellent sporting and very lovely scenery. 

Lying twe4ity miles south of Little Tupper, through a forest alley 
holding the Raquette River, is Raquette Lake, approached through turbu- 
lent falls, and exceedingly wild woodland scenery. It is at this point 
that " Mother Johnson's " is reached, — a low, quaint log house, where 
the pancakes of Mun-ay fame are served. Raquette Lake is twelve 
miles long, and about five wide. It is seventeen hundred feet above tho 
sea. Its environing forests, graceful islands, and mountain ranges in 
view, combine to enhance its charms. Fish and game are plentiful here, 
although few visitors come on account of its poverty of inn and guide 
accommodations. 

About five miles beyond Johnson's the Raquette River widens, flowing 
north-east into the beautiful Long Lake, on whose waters lie the most 
charming of islands. The largest. Round hland, is the most celebrated 
of any found in Adirondack waters. Hammond says of it, "I wish 1 
owned that island: it would be pleasant to be possessor of so much 
beautv. ' ' 



182 POPULAH KESOKTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

Blue Mountain Lake is twelve miles south. Utoioana and Eagle 
lying west are connected by inlet with Raquette; and farther west, 
Fulton Lakes are chained together by a series of ponds. Going north, 
and all the time following by stream, will be found North Branch, Biff 
Moose, Beech, and innumerable smaller lakes and ponds, each partaking 
of the general lack of civilization, but richly rewarding the hardy 
adventurer. 

It has been generally conceded by painstaking tourists, that, in no 
territory this side of the Yellowstone, can be realized so completely the 
spirit and recomi3ense of exploit as among the Adirondacks. It will be 
a fact rather to deplore than welcome, if, in the great march of civiliza- 
tion, this land, so after God's own making, will be brought under a 
human plan of architecture and landscape finish. Let it be left to its 
Maker. 

NEW YORK TO LOKG BRANCH. 

The new short and quick route opened by the Central Railroad Com- 
pany of New Jersey, Jime 15, 1874, to Long Branch, is a matter of 
importance to the citizens of New York, with whom time is a great 
desideratum. Passengers start from the foot of Liberty Street, go via 
Elizabeth, Woodbridge, Perth Amboy (where the line crosses the Raritan 
River by a bridge a mile long to South Anlboy), thence through Red 
Bank, Oceanport, &c., to Long Branch, opening this fashionable water- 
ing-place, by an easy, expeditious route, to the panting thousands of the 
great metropolis. About ten trains are run each way daily, — a cheap 
and easy release from the narrow streets of the city, and equally nar- 
row pursuits of gain, to the soul-saving worship of the great and good 
God through the never-quiet, never-ceasing roar of the mighty ocean. 

Harvey's lake, north mountain, and highland lake. 

Returning again on the line of the Central Railroad of Neiv Jersey^ 
through the Lehigh Valley, to Wilkes Barre, we find several resorts in the 
vicinity of considerable local interest. 

Harvey's Lake is twelve miles north-west of Wilkes Barre. It is a 
small, deep pool of marvellously clear, cool water. It is approached by 
a romantic road over the mountains from Wilkes Barre, and is a popular 
resort for the citizens of that place on account of its fishing and boating 
facilities. It is a thousand feet above the Susquehanna, and about two 
hundred feet deep, and nearly circular in shape, forming a clear and 
beautiful mirror for the overhanging Alleghany Mountains. 

North Mountain is another resort in the neighborhood of Wilkes 
Barre, more distant than Harvey's Lake, yet rapidly increasing in pop- 
ularity, as will be seen by the following description. 



184 POPULAB RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

THE NORTH MOUNTAIN HOUSE. 

One of the most important problems to determine in household mat- 
ters is, " Where shall we spend the hot months of summer ? " A change 
is required : we must go somewhere. The father has become overtaxed 
by the cares of business ; the mother is wearied by household duties ; the 
children need a respite; the health of all demands this change. "But 
where can we go?" are the oft-repeated words. 

Why, there are places enough, — by the sea, at the springs, or in the 
mountains. The newspapers teem with notices of them ; and books 
resound with their praises. At Cape May, Atlantic City, Long Branch, 
or Newport ; at Bedford Springs, Saratoga, Watkins Glen, or Niagara ; 
at the White Mountains, Mount Desert, Mauch Chunk, or Cresson ; and 
at hundreds of other fashionable resorts, — houses in abundance are open, 
servants are ready, and landlords stand smiling at the door to receive you. 
Their halls dazzle with beauty ; their parlors rustle with fashion ; their 
corridors resound with mirth ; and their drives are a whirl of excitement. 
Certainly, with such an array, one need not lack for a choice. 

But it is just this rustle of fashion, this whirl of excitement, that 
deters many of our best citizens from seeking that recreation which their 
health requires. It was to meet this emergency that the North Moun- 
tain House was erected, and a summer home provided where muslin 
and chintz, common sense and comfort, should supplant the prevailing 
customs of popular resorts ; in a word, where dress is not paramount 
to good taste and social enjoyments. Here are good accommodations 
for two hundred guests, all amply supplied with the substantial pro- 
visions of home, in a climate fresh with invigorating atmosphere, with 
springs of pure mountain water, where at reasonable rates a man may 
take his family for the season, and return invigorated and refreshed. 

If the reader would locate the North Mountain House, he is referred 
to that spot on the map of Pennsylvania, between the East and West 
Branches of the Susquehanna River, where the counties of Sullivan, 
Luzerne, and Wyoming corner, from which flow the head-waters of Loyal 
Sock, Muncy, Fishing, Huntington, Kitchen, Bowman, and Mehoopany 
Creeks. There it stands, on the banks of a charming lake, on the sum- 
mit of North Mountain, of the Alleghany range, 2,700 feet above tide- 
water (the highest habitable spot in Pennsylvania), in the centre of an 
unbroken primeval forest of 25,000 acres, not a house within a half- 
dozen miles, and " no one to molest or make afraid." The North 
Mountain House, as a popular resort, is a success. No "rustle of 
fashion in the parlors;" though its "corridors resound with mirth," 
and the halls and grounds are radiant with that beauty and alive with 
that enjoyment which come from, good cheer. 



roPULAK KKSOUTS, AND UOW TO REACH THEM. 



185 



There is fishing for those who like it, and hunting in the woods ; there 
is sailing on the lake, and roaming in the groves ; there are billiards 
for rainy days, and croquet for fine ; there are scenes for the artist's 
pencil, and abundant sports for all. 




WILD WOODS. 



North Mountain is eighteen miles from Shickshinny, on the East 
Branch of the Susquehanna, through which passes the " Lackawanna and 



186 POPULAK UKSORTS, AND JIOAV TO KKACIl THEM. 

Blooinsburt;' " Ilailroad, conuectinn- north with tho " Delaware, Lacka- 
wanna and Western," and south with the "Philadelphia and Erie 
i-oad." 

Tlie morning train I'roni Wilkes Bai-re leaves you at Shickshinny 
about nine o'clock. A good team can be secured at the hotel ; and 
the drive to North Mountain is delightful. The route is over an 
excellent upland road, and commands a succession of grand and varied 
landscape views, in admiration for which the miles grow short, and 
the distance is the least objectionable feature of the journey. Should 
necessity recpvire, the trip can be made from the afternoon train ; but it is 
not as pleasant, as we have the evening sun in our eyes, and arrive after 
nightfall. The road winds among the hills, rising by easy grade to the 
base of the mountain proper, by which much of its altitude is overcome. 
The side is steep ; bu,t the carriage-way is shaded by forest trees, and is 
exceedingly picturesejue. It is overhung in places by frowning rocks ; 
and the rush of an impetuous stream can be heard in the valley below. 

The topography of North Mountain is so different from our general 
acceptation of the term '"mountain," — which usually rises to a 
sunnnit crest, — that a brief description of its physical characteristics 
will be in place. Its sides are abrupt, presenting many interesting 
geological features. The summit surface is generally level, beneath 
which the outcropping sti'ata of the carboniferous and sub-carboniferous 
formations are distinctly visible. This forms an extended plateau, broken 
by gentle undulations, extending thirty miles in length by ten in 
breadth. It is covered by a dense forest of pi'imeval trees, — oak, 
hickory, maple, birch, cherry, hemlock, pine, beech, and other varieties 
usually grown in much higher latitudes. Springs of pure water, crystal 
streams alive with speckled trout, and quiet lakelets, abound. On the 
banks of the largest, Highlond Lake, the North JNIouutain House has 
been erected. This delightful sheet of water, three miles in circum- 
ference, is fed by springs at its bottom. It abounds in fine varieties of 
tish, and furnishes withal a pkxising source of amusement. Its outlet 
forms the head-waters of Kitchen Creek; which, with seeming reluctance 
at first, leaves its parent head : then, as it moves along, gathering strength 
by fresh accessions, it soon assumes a bolder course, until the moiuitain's 
brink is reached, down which it plunges impetuously, forming numerous 
wild cascades, then, with a fearful leap sheer down the deep abyss, is 
dashed into snowy spray among the rocks. Rich, luxuriant foliage 
depends from the overhanging cliffs, through which peers the sparkling 
sheen of a midsununer's day, clothing all in bright rainbow hues. 

" Ganoga Falls" are 127 feet high. They are of recent discovery, and 
must prove a great acquisition to the attractions of Nortli ^Mountain. 
They are three miles from the house, by a picturesipic woodland road. 




Emjraved expresgl;/ for " linchelder's Popular Rcsorta, and Hnw to Reach Tliem.' 
GANOGA FALLS, NORTH MOUNTAIN, PA. 



188 



POPULAR RESOKTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



The immediate approach is wild in the extreme, affording an oppor- 
tunity at comparatively small effort to witness Nature clothed in her 
native dress. 




MOUNTAIN STREAM. 



The stream continues down the mountain side, forming a series of 
wild cataracts and charming cascades, and is also a delightful resort 
for the angler. 



POPULAR RESOKTS, AND HOW TO REACH Til KM. 189 

The better plan to see this ravine to advantage is, to be taken by car- 
riage a few miles below, turning by a cross-road to the left to a point of 
intersection with Kitchen Creek at the foot of the mountain, from which 
place the stream can be followed up to the Ganoga Falls, already described. 
Although the excursion is full of adventure, there is more romance 
than pleasure in it, particularly for ladies, unless they are well assured 
of their physical endurance. At all events, it should not be attempted 
without a guide, and refreshments should be sent to Ganoga Falls to 
regale the party on its arrival. Never venture from the main travelled 
road without a pocket-compass. The importance of this the author has 
good reason to remember. Late in the autumn of 1873, while visiting 
Ganoga Falls with the proprietor of this vast domain, Ave became en- 
tangled in dense laurel thickets, confused by a blinding snow-storm, and 
absolutely lost in this unbroken forest of twenty-five thousand acres for 
more than four hours ; and by mere chance avoided a night in the 
woods with the thermometer at zero. There are undoubtedly still 
many interesting localities to be discovered in this wild region by future 
explorers. 

Point Look-off is an interesting place, and is much frequented by 
equestrian and driving parties. The summit of North Mountain is so 
densely wooded that it is only when, from some opening near the brink, 
you catch glimpses of the deep, distant view, that you realize your alti- 
tude. Such a place is Point Look-off. 

It is some three miles from the house, and the way is overhung by 
enormous trees, furnishing a deep, grateful shade. Go, by all means, 
with the declining sun, when the shadows fall from you in the view you 
wish to see. 

It is surprising how readily visitors to a rural resort hke North Moun- 
tain drift into the natural freedom of the prevailing customs of the place. 
Sailing, boating, fishing, hunting, croquet, music, picnic dinners, and 
promenading, stout shoes and short dresses, exert their equalizing influ- 
ence, until the whole household seem to forget the conventionalities of 
society, — forget the outside world, and live the while in an atmosphere 
purely their own. It is this state of feeling, probably, that gives the 
view from Point Look-off much of its charm. Emerging from a primeval 
forest, you suddenly catch an unexpected glimpse of the world you left 
behind. Standmg on the eastern escarpment of the Alleghany Ridge, 
you see ranges of rounded hills and green meadows, thrifty farm-houses 
and distant towns, and, beyond all, you see rising in the blue distance 
lines of rugged mountains. 

The view extends miles beyond miles, east, south-east, and south, 
embracing the counties of Luzerne, Columbia, and Montour, which fills 
the mind with awe and admiration. 



190 



popuIjAR kksokts, and mow to jieach them. 



The enduring character of the conglomerate and hard sandstone 
formation protects the surface to the mountain's brink ; but the deep 
gorges through which the maddened streams have cut their way, expos- 
ing'the formation from surface to base, furnish a fiekl for the geologist, 
of "unusual interest, and to the student and lover of wild and romantic 
scenery scenes worthy of the artist's pencil. 




NORTH MOUNTAIN VIEW. 

The " North Mountain View " is one of the most remarkable features 
of this character. It is on the south-west side of the mountain, less than 



POPULAU RESORT8, AND IIOW TO KEACH THEM. 191 

a, half-mile from the house, and is of easy access. To the spectator from 
the head of this wild and broken canon, the scene is indescribable by 
the artist's pencil or writer's pen. It is a singular combination of 
.scenery, possessing the grandest features, clothed with the picturesque 
and beautiful, over and beyond which — stretching far, far away — is 
that immeasurable distance which always " lends enchantment to the 
view." 

A visitor writing of it says, " Here, standing on a perpendicular ledge 
of rocks, you gaze with a mixture of wonder and admiration down upon 
this magnificent view. Seven distinct mountain ranges dovetail one into 
the other, forming a long, deep gorge, through which you look for miles 
beyond miles. . . . Far into the unseen depths of the ravine below is 
heard the roaring of a creek, of which occasional glimpses are seen 
sparkling in the noonday sun." The accompanying cut is from an 
original sketch by the artist, Thomas Hill ; and yet the almost magic 
touch of that celebrated artist fell far short of the sublime grandeur of 
nature. 

There are those who delight to sail on the lake, to fish in its waters, 
and walk on its banks ; there are those who find pleasure in roaming 
through the grovos and penetrating to the unbroken depths of the forest ; 
there are those who, following the sportive streams from crest to base, 
watch their falling waters, and amid wreaths of snow-white spray linger 
for hours to tempt the speckled trout ; and those who enter joyously into 
all the sportive games in which the place abounds. But to none is the 
delight so sparkling, the pleasure so pure, the joy so lasting, as to the 
devotee who worships at the shrine of the North Mountain " View." Tt 
is the great feature of the place, and the walk to it is delightful. 

The professional hunter and amateur sportsman will be alike interested 
in this field for the exercise of their favorite amusements. The North 
Mountain House consists of two buildings, surrounded and coimected by 
long, broad verandas. The older or stone house was built many years 
ago, before the days of railroads, on the old turnpike leading from 
Buffalo, N.Y.. to Sunbury, Fenn., which is still used by drovers in transport- 
ing their stock ; and the house is the comfortable home where the weary 
traveller is sure of a cheerful welcome. Its complete isolation, surrounded 
by many miles of unbounded forest filled with deer and other large game, 
soon made it the rendezoous, in the autumn and winter months, of 
hunters and sportsmen. During a day spent there by the writer, in 
November, 1873, there were four deer and a bear killed in the immediate 
vicinity, — not an unusual circumstance in the hunting season. The laws 
of the State protect deer during the summer months ; but the autumn 
finds this a rich field for sport. 



192 POPULAK RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

Wild fowl, in their migratory flight, frequently make "Highland 
Lake " their resting-place. Others rear their young in its quiet coves. 




FOREST LIFE. 



The North Mountain House embraces among its patrons many of the 
best families of the State, who select for a summer home this healthful 
locality, convenient of access, yet far away from the false life of fashion- 
able resorts ; a spot abounding in the pristine beauties of nature. Here 
they spend the heated term, and return to their homes in autumn re- 
cuperated in strength, with fresh vigor to enter again the battle of life. 



POPULAU KESOKTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM, 193 

PLEASURE ROUTE No. 15. 

New-York City to West Point, Saratoga, and the Popular 
Resorts of Northern and Western New York, Niagara 
Falls, and the West. 

NEW YORK CENTRAL AND HUDSON RIVER RAILROAD. 

One of the most chai-iuiug of summer tours is that from New-York 
City to Niagara Falls, old New York Central and Huilsou River Rail- 
road. The general route of travel passes through a portion of the State 
rich in scenes of beauty and sublimity, and will well repay the time and 
expense given in exploring the many points of interest This railroad 
has four tracks, two for passenger traffic and two for freight, between 
Albany and Rochester; 

Starting from the magnificent Grand Central Depot on Forty- 
second Street, where cars the most palatial of any constructed are to 
be obtained, the traveller passes, a few miles out, Irvington, and 
Sunnyside, the cottage of the great " essayist," and will pause first at 
Sinfi Sing for a visit to Croton and Rockland Lakes. The last 
named, across the river and opposite Sing Sing, is one mile from the 
Hudson, and one hundred and fifty feet above it. This lake furnishes 
one of the main sources of supply of ice to the metropolis, more than 
two hundred thousand tons of which are annually stored in its houses. 

Croton Lake is reached by carriage conveyance from Sing Sinr/, and 
it is the lake from which New- York City is supplied with water. It is 
about five miles long, and quite narrow, being artificially formed by 
throwing a dam two hundred and fifty feet long, forty feet high, and 
seventy feet thick, across the Croton River. Its waters are conducted to 
the city by an aqueduct forty miles long, with a daily capacity of sixty 
million gallons. 

Eleven miles above Sing Sing, following the railroad, and stopping at 
PeeksHl, the traveller leaves the cars for a visit to Lake Mahopao, 
which is fourteen miles east of the Hudson. The lake is eight miles iu 
circumference, and eighteen hmidred feet above the sea. 

It is the most beautiful of a family of twenty lakes lying within a 
circle of thirteen miles, all of which are supplies to the Croton. Although 
the surrounding landscape is comparatively quiet, lacking bold, hilly 
feature, yet its own calm M'aters, and tiny wooded islands, and the many 
romantic dells in its neighborhood, together with the broad, macadam- 
ized driveway, all serve to give Lake Mahopac just claim to special 
notice. Lake Mahopac is also reached directly by a branch of the Harlem 
Railroad, which leaves New- York City from the Grand Central depot. 



194 POPULAB KESOKTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

Petrea Island in this lake, nearly round, is a lovely bit of fresh 
verdure standing jast in the centre. For neighbors, it has the Fairi/ and 
Grand Islands. 

Returning from Lake Mahopac to the river, at Peekskill begin the 
famous Highlands of the Hudson, the most celebrated of Amer- 
ican river-scenery. Passing along the east bank, the railroad enters 
the Tunnel, two hundred feet in length, ruiniing tl^rough the bold prom- 
ontory of Anthony'' s Nose. On the west side can be seen Buttermilk 
Falls, a series of rapids making a leap of a hundred feet, on a stream 
joining the Hudson just below West Point. They form a charmingly 
picturesque feature in the scenery of the river. Farther on to the north 
is Garrison Station, — the point from which the traveller crosses the 
Hudson to reach the United States Military School at West 
Point. The Academy here, the most prominent feature, is of stone, 
while the Barracks, the Library, Observatory, Hospital, and Officers* 
Quarters, make up a formidable and garrison-like settlement. 

Nearly ten miles above West Point, is Fishkill, the seat of the fine 
country home of the Secretary of State. This town is interesting also, as 
the scene. of Cooper's novel "The Spy." Thirteen miles along lies Pough- 
keepsie, of Vassar College fame. Passing Catskill Station, and the 
beautiful mountain region, of which mention is made elsewhere (see 
Catskills), and also Hudson, a large town on the west side of the river, 
we approach Albany, the capital of the State. This city lies on the 
side of a height crowned by the State Capitol, rising two hundred and 
twenty feet above the river. 

The Capitol, unfinished, stands on the public square, the State House 
and City Hall occupying two of the remaining sides. 

The Dudley Observatory in the northern part of the city, the Slate 
Arsenal, the Medical College, the State Normal School, and the Law School, 
are among the most important of public institutions. There are many 
objects of interest in Albany, connected with the original Dutch settle- 
ment and the early history of the Republic, which will well repay an 
extended examination. 

Five miles north of Albany, lies Troy, a city of forty-six thou- 
sand people. It has many fine churches, public buildings, and resi- 
dences, and is the largest manufacturing city of the Hudson Valley. 
Here is the Waterviiet Arsenal, one of the national depots for the storage, 
manufacture, and repair of war implements and material ; and also 
large establishments for the working of iron into all known uses. 

There are four main lines of railroad centring here, by which the 
tourist can reach either the famous Saratoga Springs, the Lakes Cham- 
plain and George, described elsewhere, the Adirondack Country, and on 
northward, and various points of interest on the line of the Troy and 



POPULAIl RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 195 

Boston road to Hoosac Tunnel, &c. Continuing westward, however, on 
the New York Central Road, we come by a short detour to Ballston on 
the Saratoga and Schenectady Branch, at which place is the Artesian 
Letitia Spring. 

It was first known and made accessible in 1868. These springs are 
said to cure rheumatism, gout, and several minor diseases. 

The Sans Souci Spring near by is composed of a fair proportion 
of lime and magnesia, with a preponderance of chloride of sodium. 
There are several comparatively unexplored springs in and around this 
town, promising a busy future for the already thriving village of Ball- 
ston. 

Returning again to the main line at Schenectady, one of the oldest 
townsin the State, and the seat of Union College^ and thence to Pala- 
tine Bridge, we come to the station from which the stage takes the traveller 
for health to Sharon Springs; for a description of which, see index. 

Little Falls, seventy-four miles from Albany, is a large manufac- 
turing town on the north bank of the Mohawk, which here forces a 
passage through a range of high hills, giving a wild and exceedingly 
interesting view of the winding river and its surroundings. 

Utica is a flourishing city of thirty thousand inhabitants, standing 
on the south bank of the Mohawk, and was at one time the site of Fort 
Schuyler, a frontier defence against the Indians. It is the seat of the 
State Lunatic Asylum, and is the depot and outlet for the surrounding 
rich agricultural region, and its annually returning summer visitors. 

BLACK RIVER RAILROAD. 

At this station the Black River Railroad diverges to the north, along 
the line of which are many natural objects of interest and beauty. The 
most prominent are Trenton Falls, seventeen miles north of Utica, 
" on West Canada Creek, a tributary of the Mohawk River, which con- 
sist of a series of cascades of unexcelled picturesqueness and beauty. 
The principal falls are five in number, and, passing up the stream, are 
named, successively, Sherman Fall, High Fall, Mill-dam Fall, Alhambra 
Fall, and Rocky Heart. To appreciate them fully, the tourist should 
descend the bank, by stairway, to the rocky level at the bottom, and pass 
up along the left bank on an irregular line of shelf-path, presenting 
little difficulty, and no danger to the careful. The rock strata of the 
gorge cannot fail to excite admiration ; and the unique collection of 
fossils and crystals found in the neighborhood, and kept on view at a 
hotel near the falls, is an interesting subject for examination and study. 
From a point called the Rural Retreat, a splendid view of the High 
Fall, from above, can be had." 



196 POPULAR RESORTS, AXD HOW TO REACH THEM. 

Still farther north are passed in succession, Sugar Palls, a hundred 
and fifty feet high, falling into a lonely valley filled with bright ever- 
greens and charming cascades. The river sinks at this point, and is 
hidden under the limestone strata, appearing again about eight hundred 
feet distant. 

Black River Rapids, a mile or two out of the village of Port Ley- 
den, are of considerable interest. They flow through a narrow, deep 
ravine, at one time known as Hellgate. 

Brantingham. Lake, eight miles from Lyons Falls, is a lovely sheet 
of water, picturesque in islands and extensively wooded shores. It 
abounds in pickerel, bass, and trout. 

Having exhausted the Black River lakes and falls, and returning again 
to Utica, we face the setting svm, and approach Rome, at the junction of 
Black River and the Mohawk. Rome will interest the tourist princi- 
pally as a railway centre where several roads intersect. 

ROME, WATERTOWN, AND OGDENSBURG RAILROAD. 

The main lines of ti-avel' through the Empire State are from east to 
west ; connecting these, and running at an angle from them, are many 
roads which frequently lie through picturesque regions, and unfold scenes 
of grandeur and beauty. 

The Rome, Watertown, and Ogdensburg Railroad is of this class, 
although we must wait for another edition for a detailed description of 
it. Yet a few of the more prominent localities will be noticed. 

This road connects with the Central New York at Rome, and extends 
in a general northerly direction through Watertown to Ogdensburg on 
the St. Lawrence River, and to' Cape Vincent at the eastern terminus of 
Lake Ontario, with a branch to Oswego. At Watertown the Sackett's 
Harbor branch of the Utica and Black River Railroad crosses it. 

This is the main route of approach to Alexandria Bay on the St. Law- 
rence, a place of rapid growth and popularity, located in close proximity 
to the ' ' Thousand Islands. ' ' Palace and drawing-room cars run from 
Albany direct, vid Rome, to Cape Vincent, connecting with elegant steam- 
ers, down the St. Lawrence, through thirty miles of charming river 
scenery, to Alexandria Bay. If Ogdensburg is first made, either from 
the south by the Rome, Watertown, and Ogdensburg Railroad, or from 
the east by the Central Vermont, fine steamers are also in readiness to 
convey the tourist from Ogdensburg u.p the St. Lawrence, thirty-six 
miles, to Alexandria Bay. 

The St. Lawrence River is, without question, one of the grandest 
and most interesting streams on the American Continent. It receives the 
waters from half a dozen inland seas, each the receptacle of hundreds of 
tributary streams. The same turbulent river that madly rushes to the 



POPULAR KESOKTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 197 

brink of Niagara, and plunges in sublime grandeur into that fearful 
abyss, now, under another name, playfully meanders through the pictur- 
esque channels of the Thousand Islands, sweeps beneath the walls of 
Quebec, and moves majestically on to tin- sea. It is beautiful, it is grand, 
and well deserves its acknowledged popularity. 

From Lake Ontario to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, is one continuous 
chain of attractions for the visitor, which each deserve special description 
in this book of " Popular Resorts. " In the present volume, however, but 
few will be mentioned, prominent among which is Alexandria Bay. 

This American port is built upon a massive pile of rocks, and occupies 
a romantic and highly picturesque situation. Some two or three miles 
below the village is a position from which a hundred islands can be in 
view at one time. It is in Jefferson County, and in immediate con- 
tiguity to the Thousand Islands, which stretch themselves along the 
centre of the St. Lawrence for a distance of forty miles below the ter- 
mination of Lake Ontario. 

The steamboat-ride from Cape Vincent to Alexandria Bay affords an 
excellent view of these islands, which are said really to number nearly 
eighteen hundred. The river is about twelve miles wide, but so closely 
studded with islands of all shapes and sizes, from the fractional part of 
an acre to ten miles in length, that there really seems at times a difficulty 
in trending a channel through them. The water of the St. Lawrence is 
here of a bright green color, and beautifully clear. The islands are gen- 
erally rocky, and thickly wooded; and the water in places so deep that 
steamers can easily run within a few feet of them. The "Rapids" of 
• the St. Lawrence are a short distance below. 

Each year adds to the popularity of this beautiful summer resting- 
place. Twenty years ago it was the quiet rendezvous of a few statesmen 
and literary gentlemen, — a respite from the excitement of debate and 
the cares of life; now it is a fashionable watering-place, where thousands 
come for rest and pleasure. Elegant private villas have been erected, 
gi'ounds cultivated, and every thing that wealth and taste can accomplish 
has been and is being done to enhance its attractions. 

Steam-yachts for pleasure, and sail and row boats for fishing parties, 
can always be had, fitted up in the best manner, and manned by experi- 
enced boatmen. Fishing here means something, and is worthy the 
name. And, in the season, the shooting in the neighborhood is unusually 
fine. The suburban drives are delightful, with ample facilities to enjoy 
them. 

A line of steamers from Toronto to INIontreal touch at Alexandria Bay; 
and it is also reached by the Grand Trunk Railway, which passes on the 
opposite bank of the river. 

Commodious summer hotels have been constructed, assuring the vis- 



198 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

iter of the very best accommodations. The Thousand Island House alone, 
recently completed, has a capacity for seven hundred guests. Perched 
upon a rock whose base is laved by the pure waters of the St. Lawrence, 
this house commands a glorious view of this magnificent scenery. Every 
variety of boat navigates the waters; the majestic river steamer and 
large white-winged craft, the graceful sail and row boat, constantly flit 
across the scene. 

Returning again to the line of the Central New York, the route from 
Rome passes Verona. 

Verona Springs have won some fame as a water-cure establish- 
ment. At Oneida we cross the line of the New York and Oswego IMid- 
LAND Railroad, and here our eyes are feasted by the first glimpse of 
Oneida Lake, a hundred and twenty-five miles west of Albany. It 
is twenty miles long and six wide, and a hundred and forty-one feet 
above Lake Ontario. Its name, Oneida, signifies "The people of the 
stone." The route continues along its northern borders nearly its entire 
length. 

It lies low, and is marshy on its shores; but there is a fine open view 
to the south of the i-ich Onondaga County highlands. It is situated in a 
fertile dairy and stock territory, where the "Inspiration Community," 
founded by John H. Noyes, is located. 

Cazenovia Lake, reached by rail from Syracuse, would scarcely 
repay for a special trip to its waters, were it not interesting as the head- 
quarters around which are medicinal springs, and also waterfalls of rare 
beauty. At Chittenango, on the Cazenovia and Canastota Railroad, a 
village situated in the valley of the outlet of the lake, are the White Sul- 
phur Springs, strongly favoring the "White Sulphur of Virginia. The 
waters flow from a bold ledge of rocks a mile out of the village; and, 
although Chittenango is not at all a fashionable resort, it is visited by 
many invalids, using the waters with much good result. 

Yates Spring, at one time the most popular, is now almost entirely neg- 
lected. A few pretty summer residences, and one or two quiet hotels, are 
found here. Three miles from the springs the Chittenango River falls 
a hundred feet over a limestone cliff; and, two miles east, Canaserrago 
Creek falls a hundred and forty feet. 

The Green Lakes are a series of pools in the limestone formation 
on Limestone Creek, near Manlius Station. 

The largest of the group. Lake Sodom, is only one-qiiarter mile across, 
and one hundred and fifty feet deep, with perfectly clear, limpid water. 
These lake waters hold in solution large quantities of the sulphate of 
lime, and are strongly tinctured with sulphuretted hydrogen gas. 

Visitors should not consent to leave Syracuse, not havuig seen Green 
Lakes. 



POPULAR KESOKTS, AND HOW TO RKACH TUEM. 



199 



Prof. Silliinaii says, " The bottom is a grass-green slate ; the sides are 
white shell marl ; and the brim, black vegetable mould ; the waters per- 



o 




fectly limpid. The whole appears to the eye like a rich porcelain bowl 
filled with limpid nectar." 

But the waters are disagreeable to the taste, and the principal lake has 
received the name of " Sodom." 



200 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

S37Tacuse, one hundred and forty-eight miles west of Albany, is a 
busy city of fifty-four thousand inhabitants. It is the seat of The 
Syracuse University, under the direction of the Methodist denomination, 
and of several public and private institutions of learning and charity. It 
is located on Onondaga Lake, in the western part of Onondaga 
County. This lake is six miles long, one mile wide, and three hundred 
and sixty-one feet above tide-water. On its banks are the most exten- 
sive salt-manufactories in the country; in fact, the entire vicinity is 
among the most fruitful and valuable in the State. 

Near Liverpool on the east bank was, formerly the chief fortress of the 
Onondaga Indians, an important tribe of the Six Nations ; and in this 
locality were fought many of the bloody battles between the French and 
Indians. A remnant of the Onondaga tribe live on a reservation at the 
head of the lake. 

At Syi-acuse the railroad divides, forming two separate lines, uniting 
again at Buffalo. Taking the lower route, the upper being compara- 
tively uninteresting, the tourist enters one of the most fascinating lake 
regions of the continent, which will well repay his examination. 

Skaneateles Lake, the most picturesque of all the lakes of Central 
Xew York, is reached from a point midway between Syracuse and 
Auburn. It is eighteen miles long, one and a half wide, and eight hun- 
dred and sixty-five feet above the sea. It is set among imposing hills 
rising twelve hundred feet above its surface, giving its waters a pro- 
found effect of "deepening, darkening, beautiful blue" such as is 
rarely found in American lake-scenery. This lake does not boast of 
busy steamboat enterprise or traffic in any shape, although a small pas- 
senger-boat steams irregularly on its placid waters, for the accommo- 
dation of tourists. About ten miles south-east of Skaneateles, is the 
little Otisco Lake, lying away off quietly by itseH, almost hidden 
among deep valleys and sombre woodland hills. 

In this immediate neighborhood is 0"wasco Lake, the smallest of 
this chciin of lake waters. It is eleven miles long, and one wide, is seven 
hundred and fifty-eight feet above the sea. It is framed by stern, rocky 
bluffs, alternately diversified by the fertile Owasco Flats. 

Seneca Falls is a station on the Seneca River, where it joins 
Cayuga Lake : the latter receives its name from the powerful Cayuga 
tribe of the Six Nations. It lies between high rolling bluffs and uplands, 
and rich farming countiy. It is thirty-eight miles long, and from one to 
three wide. Its waters flow from Ithaca, north to Cajoiga Bridge on the 
New York Central Railroad. 



POPTTLAR RESORTS, AXD HOW TO REACH THEM. 201 

As the steamer passes along down the lake, a few miles from Ithaca, 
Cornell University is seen crowning one of the adjacent hills. Quiet 
little villages and peaceful farming lands are passed all the way up 
toward the end. Wells College for ladies is at Am-ora on its east bank; 
the steamer stopping at that village, and also at Levana and Union 
Springs, a thriving town with several mills working on the water-power 
of two exhaustless springs. 

Taughannock Falls are located on the west shore of Cayuga Lake, 
six miles north of Ithaca, and are easily reached from Taughannock 
Station on the Geneva, Ithaca, and Athens Railway. This fall is two 
hundred and fifteen feet in perjiendicular plunge (fifty feet higher than 
Niagara), is set in the rarest of romantic surroundings, and is so fasci- 
nating in effect as to call from Dr. Cheever the following rhapsody: 
"The fall is, in truth, the Staubbach of Switzerland, most absolutely 
reproduced, and of concentrated beauty and grandeur." 

One mile from the city of Ithaca is a remarkable ravine, containing a 
large number of cascades and waterfalls supplied by Fall Creek, which 
descends in gradual fall, four hundred feet in one mile. First in this 
series, the traveller meets Ithaca Falls, falling one hundred and sixty 
feet, the waters at its base forming a wide, deep pool. Following the 
rocky path up the gorge, the tourist passes successively The Plateau, a 
broad, shelving rock; The Promontory, which affords extensive views 
over the wide valley, taking in the village. The Tunnel, cut two hundred 
feet in length through solid rock, and formed to carry water to the 
mills below, leads to the beautiful Forrest Fall. 

Next comes The Foaming Fa,ll, a clear leap of thirty feet ; then 
The Rocky Fall, fifty-five feet high; and near by The Trip-ham- 
mer Falls, down which the dark water plunges into a broad basin. 
Above and overlooking them are Flume Falls and the Beebe Dam. 

The path winding through this romantic dell has been formed by 
blasting off the rocks, and is frequently protected on the way along at 
the most dangerous places by strong railings. The whole effect pro- 
duced by this natural wonder is exceedingly fine, and this romantic dell 
may be pronounced the charming crown of New York lake-scenery. 

The Gorge is a favorite resort for all classes, and is especially patron- 
ized by picnic parties. 

Pulpit Fall and Buttermilk Fall on Buttermilk Creek, two miles south 
of Ithaca, are among the interesting suburban objects of the city ; and 
Lick Brook, and Enfield Glen Falls one hundred and sixty feet high, are 
much visited. 

Seneca Lake is touched on its northern extremity by this road, and 
south, at its head at Watkins, by the Northern Central Railroad, to 



202 POPULAR BESOETS, AND HOW TO BEACH THEM. 

which turn for fuller description. A line of steamers connects Seneca 
and Watkins by daily trips. The lake is thirty-five miles long, and 
about four wide. The depth of these waters is remarkable, reaching 
in some places one thousand feet. They are wonderfully clear, rarely 
freezing over, even in the coldest weather. 

Its hilly shores, like Keuka and Canandaigua, are richly productive of 
grapes in valuable quality, giving to the general tone of the scenery a 
rich and pleasing effect. This lake is valuable in commerce, affording 
extensive transportation for coal. At the southern extremity of the 
lake is "Watkins Glen, perhaps the most romantic spot in the country, 
which is described in detail elsewhere. 

Once more proceeding westward from Geneva, Lake Canandaigua 
claims our attention, on the shore of which lies the village of its 
name. This is one of a cluster of six like waters running from about 
the same line from north to south; and they are of variable size and 
importance. 

Canandaigua, the most western, is fifteen miles long, and six hun- 
dred and sixty-eight feet above the sea. About three thousand vine- 
yards enclose its shores. This region is a quiet, restful spot, and all 
strangers are fascinated by its charms. 

Sodus Point is a recently developed summer resort, noted for its salu- 
brious atmosphere, located on Lake Ontario, at the terminus of the Sodus 
Point and Southern Railway. 

Crooked Lake, or Keuka, farther to the east, is seventeen miles 
long, and one and a half wide. It is seven hundred feet above the sea, 
and is protected by high hills cultivated for vineyard use. 

The train, here turning northward, reaches Rochester, a beautifully 
shaded, modern city, situated on the Genesee River, seven miles from 
Lake Ontaiio. It is the principal manufacturing town of Western New 
York; its magnificent water-power giving it an immense advantage over 
other competitive cities. In the vicinity are the largest nurseries of 
fruit-trees and plants in the country. In Rochester there are many costly 
buildings, the Athenceum, the Unu'erslt/j, and Theoloylcal Seminary, being 
among the most imposing. In the lower part of the city is the 
Genesee Falls, one of those wild and romantic assemblages of water 
battles with rocky obstructions, which ai'e ever novel and of exciting 
interest, — wonderfully enhanced, in the Genesee, from the skilful mas- 
tery of its turbulence, harnessed by the hand of art and scientific devices. 

Continuing westAvard, from Rochester, the Oak Orchard Acid 
Springs at Medina claim notice. They are especially medicinal in the 
cure of ciitaneous diseases. They number nine distinct springs within 
an area of eight hundred feet. Their waters are remarkable as contain- 
ing in each gallon, by the ijiost exact measurement, eighty-three grains 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



203 



of sulphuric acid. It is said that a similar spring exists in Persia, and 
that two of the same sort are found in South America. These springs 
are also reached by the way of the New York Central Railroad at a 
point six miles north-west of Batavia by the upper route. 

Passing Lockport, a city of fifteen thousand people, noted for its 
immense and massive locks, lowering the bed of the Erie Canal sixty-six 
feet from the lake ridge to the level of the Genesee Valley, we approach 
the grand culmination of the journey, — 

Niagara Falls, and the traveller or wonder-hunter finds himself at 
last in the presence of that world-renowned glory of the waters. De- 
scription of those stupendous falls has been exhausted long ago. No 
attempt at details will be made here. There are other sublimities of 
nature, no less equal in their impressiveness and startling grandeur. 
There are water leaps of loftier heights, and amid scenes that fill the 
soul with delight and awe. But no such vast volume, no like rush and 
turmoil and thunder, has yet been discovered in the habitable parts of 
the globe. We find inexpressible delight and profound emotion in every 
variety of earth's peculiar, more exceptional, and fanciful aspects, — in 
the tender and sweet calm of woodland green, and shady solitudes of 
rills and wild flowers and birds, and the wavy mists of remoter hills ; in 
the great stabs and scars which mighty convulsions have inflicted ; in the 
stern and sterile summits where ice and snow forever reign; in the cas- 
cades, the sinuous streams, the wave-washed crags of the Atlantic 
shores. But from none of these come such profound imi:)ressions as 
from the awful plunges and the reverberating thunders of Niagara Falls. 
With a thousand pretentious rivals, it is the crowned monarch of them 
all. 




204 POPULAB RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



PLEASURE ROUTE No. 16. 

From New York City to Niagara Palls and the West, 
via Erie Railway. 

ERIE RAILWAY. 

The Erie Railway is one of the main trunk lines connecting the sea- 
board with the great inland lakes. Reaching from New York to Lake 
Erie at Dunkirk, with a branch to Lake Ontario at Rochester, and anotli- 
er to Buffalo, connecting with the lines from the other inland seas, it has 
become one of the great arteries of the country, second to none in carry- 
ing capacity. Its passenger-trains are equipped with the finest coaches 
made ; its broad-gauge road-bed challenges comparison for smoothness 
and safety; and its railway hotels and restaurants are placed at convenient 
distances, and kept in unexceptionable condition. 

The Avhole extent of the line lies through a country rich in rare scenes 
of romantic beauty, and wooded, picturesque loveliness, and has long 
been, and wiU long be, a favorite route for the summer tourist. 

The Erie Depot at Jersey City is reached by ferry from the foot of 
Chambers Sti-eet, or from Twenty-third Street. 

In order to observe the many points of interest, the trip should be 
made by daylight, and the comfort of the traveller will be much increased 
by taking the beautiful palace-car attached to the morning express- 
trains. These cars deserve a separate chapter by themselves, especially 
those of this road. 

At 9.15, A.M., you pass from the depot through Bergen Tunnel across 
the Hackensack Meadows by the smaller suburban towns, until Paterson, 
N.J. , is reached, where a stop is made for a visit to Passaic Falls, 
which are waters of value, and much mercantile and mechanical interest, 
affording large revenue power. 

The falls themselves are in the midst of a small park, where they throw 
themselves abruptly down about sixty feet into a deep ravine, between 
bowlders of basalt, and flow rapidly off between beds of limestone. 
Leaving Paterson, after passing several smaller towns, the road enters 
the State of New York at Suffern, from Avhich place a branch road runs 
direct to the Hudson River at Piermont. Farther on is Ramapo, the 
point from which the beautiful valley of the Ramapo River and Falls are 
reached. Tlie river breaks through the mountains at this place, and 
passes by an interesting series of successive falls and cascades to join the 
Pequannock at Pompton, which afterwards falls into the Passaic. There 
are many beautiful bits of landscape and water scenery in this charming 
valley. 



POPITI.AR RKSORTS, AXI) HOW TO RKACII THKM. 205 

Greenwood Lake, or Long Pond, lies among the mountains of 
Orange County, nine miles south of Chester. It is a wonderfully clear 
sheet of water, six miles long. 

Surrounding Greenwood are several lakelets of pleasing resources, 
furnishing the best of boating and fishing, and always rewarding the 
pleasure-seeker with frequent surprises. 

It is a special delight to explore the lovely Macopin, a perfect gem, and 
also the more extensive w-aters of the Wawayandah, lying in the valley of 
the Wawayandah mountains near the boundary line of New York and 
New Jersey. Its name, of Indian origin, is translated, ' ' winding stream, ' ' 
in characteristic picture of the zigzag nature of the lake, which is at one 
place almost divided by an island. Its waters are very deep, clear, and 
abound with trout. The entire region is attractive ; and, as it is near 
New York, it is always, during the heated season, a popular retreat for 
those whose business cares forbid a far-away resting-place. 

Near this station is also the Seven Sp7-mgs Mountain House, a spacious 
hotel for summer resort. 

At Goshen, the Wallkill Valley Branch leaves the main line, running 
through Montgomery and other towiis to Kingston on the Hudson ; where 
connection is made with the New York, Kingston, and S}Tacuse Railroad 
for the " Catskills." (See index.) Just above Montgomery is New Paltz, 
six miles from which lies Lake Mohonk, a favorite goal for the denizens 
of New York City. This lake is three-fourths of a mile long, but very 
deep, and with high, precipitous shores. Its waters abound m fish. The 
neighborhood of the lake supplies many objects of interest, among which 
are Sky Top peak (three hundred feet high), upon the side of which 
Lake ]\Iohonk is embedded, the Labyrinth, Eagle Rock, and Sunset Rock, 
eacli an object of interest. 

About five miles off, on Rondout Creek, are High Falls, elsewhere 
described. 

Goshen is one of the oldest towns in Orange County, and is noted for 
its dairy products, " Goshen or Orange-County butter " being the popu- 
lar and standard brand of New York City. Middletown, a flourishing 
village, slips by, giving place to the view of the Shawangunk Moun- 
tains, which the train lapidly ascends by a series of "planes" to Otu>- 
ville, gaining the summit of the grade a little farther on. The view 
from here, as the train rushes along the western slope, is grand indeed. 
The Never sink Valley, the rugged overhanging mountains, and the 
hamlets of Mil/ford and Port Jervis in the distance, form a panorama of 
gi'andeur impressive to the beholder, and never to be forgotten. 

Following down the Neversink Valley, Port Jervis is reached, a town 
of seven thousand people, lying at the confluence of the Neversink and 
Delaware Rivers. This is the terminus of the eastern division of the 



206 POPULAR KESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

Erie Road. The Falls of the Sawkill are six miles away, with stage com- 
munication. The gorge through which the stream passes is one of great 
wildness and grandeur. Three miles beyond Port Jervis the train crosses 
the river, passing into the State of Pennsylvania, through which it runs 
for twenty-six miles. A portion of this distance, the road was constructed 
at an expense of a hundred thousand dollars per mile, being built on 
broad galleries hewn out of the mountain side. We turn from the rugged 
overhanging rock, and look down upon the verdant meadows below, 
Eden-like and charming in their quiet loveliness. 

At Lackawaxen, situated at the junction of the Lackawaxen and 
Delaware Rivers, a branch road runs to Honesdale, penetrating the rich 
coal regions of North-western Pennsylvania. This line passes Hawley 
en route, the eastern terminus of the Pennsylvania Coal Company's grav- 
ity road, or "switch-back" (see index). The wire suspension-bridge 
which at Lackawaxen spans the Delaware, sustaining the canal-aqueduct 
and railway trains, is a great feat of engineering skill, and forms a 
marked feature in the landscape. 

Seven miles beyond, the train again crosses the Delaware into New 
York State. This section, although lacking the boldness of that recently 
passed, is filled to overflowing with scenes of unassuming but fascinating 
beauty, with no particularized feature until the road leaves the Dela- 
ware Valley near Deposit, and, rising by heavy grades, reaches Summit 
Station, thirteen hundred and sixty-six feet above the sea. We soon 
cross the deep embankment where once rested the famous Cascade Bridge, 
which, by single span of two hundred and fifty-six feet, cleared a gorge a 
hundred and eighty-four feet in depth. Here the scene was wild indeed. 
The improvement, while detracting from the picturesqueness of the 
route, adds materially to its security. 

The view now opens to one of great expanse of landscape beauty. 
The Delaware, whose company we kept so long with pleasant recollec- 
tions, we have left behind; and we now catch our first view of the Sus- 
quehanna, which, throughout a length of over four hundred miles, carries 
with it a succession of scenic loveliness. We now descend to the famous 
Staruoca Viaduct, near Susquehanna. This stupendous structure 
is the most remarkable engineering achievement of the road. It crosses 
the Siarucca Valley by a series of eighteen arches, with a length of 
twelve hundred feet, and height of a hundred and ten feet. The charm- 
ing Starucca Valley and the viaduct have been vividly portrayed by 
Cropsey, the celebrated landscape painter, in his picture, " An American 
Autumn." 

At Susquehanna are the repair-shops of the road, comprising large 
buildings covering eight acres, and fully furnished with the best and 
latest improved machinery in the country. The train stops here for 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 207 

dinner. There are many landscape views of interest in this vicinity. 
Mount Oquago and Painted Rock are among the attractions. From Sus- 
quehanna to Binghamton the country is more tame. At Great Bend, 
intersection is made with the Delaware, Lackawanna, and Western, 
and the Delaware and Hudson Canal Companies' railroads, extending 
from Scranton northward. 

Binghamton is a pleasant city of thirteen thousand inhabitants, 
situated at the confluence of the Susquehanna and Chenango Rivers. Its 
capital railroad facilities, and proximity to the inunense coal and iron 
centres, have developed to itself a large manufacturing interest, which is 
rapidly placing it in the front rank of the inland cities of the Empire 
State. It contains many public and private buildings of cost and beauty, 
among them the Court House and State Inebriate Asylum, &c. 

Binr/hamton is itself a delightful place of rendezvous, and is also the 
point of departure for many summer resorts. Leaving Binghamton, if we 
proceed north-west, on the Albany and Susquehanna Railroad, passing 
Vallonia Springs (whose waters are strongly recommended), and 
other smaller stations, we reach at last the junction, and, in due time, 
Cooperstown, lying at the foot of Otsego Lake, where the Sus- 
quehanna River takes its rise. This town is a favorite summer home, 
and has become, in a certain way, historical by the visits of many eir\,- 
inent writers. 

Mohegan Glen, three miles away, contains several waterfalls ; and 
within an area of twenty miles by pleasant driveway will be found Hai-t- 
toick and Seminary Lakes, Bear Clijf Falls, Westford and Pierstown Hills, 
Beaver Meadow, Rum Hill, Cherry Valley, and Shai'on and Richfield Springs, 
all objects of much interest. The Cooper House is the popular stopping- 
place. (See index for fuller description.) 

Returning again to Binghamton, we "take up our line of march" 
westward, entering a rich farming country, through which flows the 
placid Susquehanna. 

At Owego the tourist can leave the main line, and, proceeding by the 
Delaware and Lackawanna and Western Railroad, reach Ithaca and 
the natural wonders in its vicinity. 

Elmira, a city of twenty thousand people, is delightfully situated on 
the Chemung River. It is a manufacturing and mercantile town, hand- 
ling large quantities of coal and grain, and containing extensive con- 
struction shops of the Erie Road. It has many fine buildings and several 
good hotels. The Northern Central Railroad here comes in from the 
south, crossing at right angles, continuing past Havana and Watkins 
Glens and Seneca Lake to Canandaigua. 

At Corning, seven miles from Elmira, and two hundred and ninety 
miles from New York City, the road divides, forming the Rochester Divis- 



208 POPULAK KESOKTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM. 

ion, running north-west by Painted Post, Bath, and other smaller sta- 
tions to Avon, where are Avon Springs, celebrated as cures for many- 
chronic, and especially cutaneous diseases. Here are three springs, 
whose waters are taken internally, and also xised in bath-foi'm. Avon 
village is a pretty valley town, a bright and sprightly summer resort, 
busy with hotels and comfortable boarding-houses. 

The ' ' Attica Brancli " runs iromAvon to the Buffalo Division at Attica, 
passing through a beautiful fertile rolling country, and by Batavia and 
other flourishing towns. 

Rochester, the terminus of this branch, is a fine city, seven miles 
from Lake Ontario, elsewhere described. (See index.) 

The Buffalo Division branches from the main line at Hornellsville, 
and passes Canaseixiga and the Chautauqua valley to Portage, where 
occurs the principal object of interest on this division, the remark- 
able bridge over the Genesee valley and river, recently burned. This 
was the longest wooden bridge in the world. It was eight hundred feet 
long, two hundred and thirty-four feet high, and contained more than 
sixteen million feet of timber. 

The famed Portage Falls are just below the bridge, and are reached 
by crossing on a plank walk, through the timbers, far below the railroad 
track. A sr-ries of surging, boiling rapids leads to the brink of the Horse 
Shoe Fall, down which the river rushes in an unbroken torrent, fall- 
ing sixty-eight feet. A short distance below are the Middle Palls, one 
hundred and ten feet high, the waters falling into a deep, dark pool, sur- 
round3d by perpendicular rocky walls. The action of the water has worn 
an enormous cavern in the softer rock of the west cliff, called The 
Devil's Oven, which in times of low water is capable of containing 
one hundred people. 

Leaving the imposing Middle Falls, the river rushes on its tumultuous 
way, through a steep, narrow gorge, winding and almost doubling for a 
distance of two miles, making its final plunge one hundred and fifty feet 
down a steep series of steps and perjjendicular falls to the last final con- 
flict at the bottom, Avhere, compressed to a Avidth of fifteen feet, it hurls 
itself against the Sugar Loaf, a rugged point of rock one hundred feet 
high, by which it is deflected, and turned off at right angles to its former 
course. 

The Grtnesee Canal here approach-^s the river by long galleries 
cut in the steep bank, and crosses by a high aqueduct above the biidge. 
Tlie whole course of the Genesee f]'om Portage to Mount Morria, for 
. several miles, is continuous between high banks (three hundred to three 
hundred and fifty feet), and is a remarkable exhibition of the power of 
water when confined in narrow limits. 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 209 

Passing Warsaw, where the beautiful Otka Valley presents a scene of 
charming country life, and Attica, the junction of the " Rochester 
Branch," the traveller approaches the foot of Lake Erie at Buffalo, one 
of the chief cities of Western New York. This city stands on the eastern 
shore of the lake at the debouchure of the Niagara River. It has the 
best harbor on the lake, protected by extensive breakwaters; and its fine 
water front of five miles has been imj)roved by the erection of basins, 
ship canals, and enormous elevators. The public parks are large and 
carefully kept, the streets broad and conveniently arranged. 

Black Rock, a suburb of Buffalo, is opposite the Canadian town of 
Fort Erie. At this point is the great International Bridge, built in 
the years 1869 to 1873, at a cost of $1,500,000, with a total length of 
more than thirty-five hundred feet, divided by an island in the river. It 
is used by the Erie, the New York Central, and three Canadian rail- 
roads. Buffalo has communication five times daily, via Black Rock and 
Towanda, with Niagara Falls. 

The main line of the Erie Railroad continues from Hornellsville, up 
the valley of the Cauisteo River to Almond, and then begins to climb 
the heavy grades of this portion of the road, arriving at Tip Top Summit, 
at an altitude of seventeen hundred and sixty feet above the sea. 

Descending the slope into the Genesee Valley to Genesee, the road tui-ns 
sharply to the north-west, running down the river to Belvidere ; then, 
bending at right angles, it leaves the valley, and again climbs the 
watershed of the Allef/hanj/ Mountains. 

Cuba Summit, 1,677 feet above tide-water, is the dividing line between 
the waters of the lakes and the St. Lawrence River, and those running 
■sduth to the Gulf of Mexico by the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers. 

Salamanca is an important railway junction, and is the eastern 
terminus of the Atlantic and Great Western Railroad. At Salamanca 
occurs a singular formation, called Rock City, occupying one hundred 
acres on the summit of a liigh hill. Huge blocks of a white conglomerate 
stone, with sharply defined outlines, convey the impression of ruins of a 
regularly built and partially destroyed city. 

Salamanca is the point of departure by the Atlantic and Great Western 
Railroad for the beautiful Chautauqua Lake. 

The road from Salamanca descends by long, easy grades to the western 
slopes of the mountains, passing through extensive forests and a few 
unimportant stations, gradually approaching the level of Lake Erie, which 
it strikes at Dunkirk, the lake terminus, four hundred and sixty miles 
from New York City. The harbor of Dunkirk is artificially formed by 
piers and breakwaters. The town has lost much of its importance as a 
shipping pomt, being distanced in its race for prosperity by its more 
successful neighbor, Buffalo. It has replaced its commercial interests, 



210 POl'Ut-AK KKSOUTS, AND UOW TO KKACU TUKM. 

however, by establishing luaiuifaotories ot various kinds. The Gas 
Spring, from which the city is Ughted, is well worth a visit. 

At Duulvirk, connection is made for pomts west by the Lake Shore 
and INIichigan Southern Raih'oad, and by the ''Buffalo and Erie" for 
lUift'alo, Niagara Falls, and points north. 

ATLANTIC AND GKEAT WESTKRN RAILROAD. 

We return to Salaimmca to start from the eastern terminus of this 
important "trunk-line." Our direction is now changed towards the 
south-west, and wo follow the course of the Alleghany River a short 
distance, and through the Oonewango ^'alley to Jamestown, located 
on the rapid outlet of the Chautauqua Lake. .Famestown is a pleasant, 
enterprising village, which is much visited in summer; its proximitj' 
to " Chautauqua " adds greatly to its popularity jis a resort. 

Chautauqua Lake is thii-ty-tive miU>s from Salamanca, in the 
extreme westtM'u corner of New York. It is twenty-four utiles long, aiid 
three wide, and is 7 "Jo feet above Lake Erie, and \,-)&2 feet above the 
sea. This is said to be the highest navigable water on this contineiit, 
and is pronounced on(> of the most beautiful and valuable of NtMv York 
lakes. 

Hemmed in by higli liills, it pn-scnts, on a clear day, a charming view 
of water scenery ; and even tlu' mists, frequently arising from its surface, 
are no serious drawback to its artistic etfect. The thrift and importance 
gained by the busy ply of merchandise steamers, from Mai/ville at its 
northern extremity, connecting with the Erie Railroad and its outlet at 
Jamestoicn, descending to the Alleghany River, add to the interest of the 
scene. There are several smnmer I'osorts at different points, which are 
annually well tilled, and. when better known, must become very popular 
with pleasure-seekers. Tlie steamer •• Jamestown " runs in connection 
with trains on the Atlantic and Great Western Railroad. Tlie line of 
the road continues through .}fea(lrille, Pemi., on the Venango River. 

A " Branch " runs south-east from Meadville, down the valley of 
French Creek, to Franklin and 0// Citi/. On the main line the pretty 
little Conneaut Lake is seen by the way. Several imimportant sta- 
tions are passed ; the Jamestown and Franklin division of the Lake 
Shore Railroad is crossed. At Greenville intersection is made witli the 
Erie and Pittsburg, and Shenango and Alleghany Railroads; and beyond 
the station of Oriuigeville the road enters the State of Ohio for the 
West. 



POPULAR KESOKTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 211 

PHILADELPHIA. 

The city of Philadelphia, in some respects, is the most renowned on 
the continent; and is about to receive a new crown of honor, in the 
centennial anniversary of the Declaration of American Independence, 
" which was read from a stand in the State House yard, July 8, 1776," 
having been adopted by the Congress of the Colonies on the 4th pre- 
ceding. This grand event, wherein forty millions of people will liold 
jubilee on their first national birthday, invests Philadelphia with dis- 
tinctive interest, and makes her history and characteristics the cynosure 
of all eyes. In view of the mighty excitement, and the vast numbers 
who will make pilgrimage to the shrine of liberty at the coming anni- 
versary, such information as may be condensed in our limited space will 
be important and interesting. Especially will those who may desire to 
visit the great carnival, from remote points, need instruction as to the 
immense network facilities of travel to Philadelphia and " how to 
reach it." There will be more people assembled together, more exciting 
and remarkable attractions, more wonderful things seen and heard for 
a lifetime talk, than the world has ever before known ; and the reader 
will do well to study and carefully preserve the details herein given of 
facilities for reaching Philadelphia from all sections of the country. It 
may as well be added, that the issue of this work for 1876 M*ill treat this 
topic in the most thorough manner, furnishing details where this must 
treat in generalities. In the present volume, however, descriptions of 
a general character will point the way from distant towns by pleasant 
routes towards the great centres of travel, connecting each with the main 
lines leading to Philadelphia; and within the radius of Pennsylvania will 
give illustrated descriptions of every important road by which the city can 
be approached, and furnish as well the most desirable short-trip excur- 
sions from Philadelphia for strangers desirous of seeing its vicinity. 

The settlement of Philadelphia has not only the curious character 
which generally attaches to such events, but is solitary and notable in 
one exalted fact. William Penn, its founder, was a Quaker, and his 
companions were Quakers. Their doctrine was eminently " peace and 
good-will on earth." In 1682 these men of simple and primitive faith 
purchased of another simple and primitive race the site on which Phila- 
delphia (brotherly love) was planted. The two met beneath the trees, 
in the open air, with the sun and the dome of blue above. The treaty 
made was never signed, and it rvas never broken, — and the only treaty 
with Indians that never was violated. At the outset, then, the record of 
Philadelphia is romantic, bright, unsullied, and most teaching. 

Philadelphia had a little over twenty thousand inhabitants when the 
Declaration of Independence was made. The number is now estimated at 



212 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



about six hundred thousand, and its area comprises nearly one hundred 
and twenty square miles. One of its unique features is the arrangement 




FALLS VILLAGE BRIDGE, 
Philadelphia and Reading Railroad. 

of the streets in the city proper, and the massive and grand bridges 
which span Philadelphia's noble rivers, — the just pride of the inhabit- 
ants. The ambition to be a vast city has led the Quakerites to the 
anaconda practice, first set by New York, of swallowing the smaller 
contiguous places from time to time. The original city, as is well 
known, is on the checker-board order, — streets intersectmg at right 



POPULAR KESOKTS, AND HOW TO PwEACII THKM. 21;i> 

angles, arranged and numbered upon a plan which leaves it no competi- 
tor. But the additions to the place have altered matters, as a whole ; 
so that the suburban streets of Philadelphia now have their full share 
of the hoop-pole style. 

In sight-seeing attractions, no city has a more diversified nor a 
more delightful variety than Penn's home. Though Nature is con- 
strained to don the garbs and obey the fashions of human art, yet 
she has been greatly aided by man's ingenuity and ambitious skill. 
Twenty years ago the Quakerite from Philadelphia was never weary 
of describing the beauties and the marvels of Fairmount and its 
colossal water-works. New York, however, — which is the chronic 
sore of Philadelphiaus, — having built its Croton wonder, and made 
its great Central Park, the glory of exclusive Fairmount Water-works 
was materially dimmed. But Fairmount now blooms in fresh loveli- 
ness, in size eclipsing all other pai'ks, and is only one of many gems set 
in a vast and magnificent new park which well contests the palm with 
the great " Central." 

Fii'st of all " the sights " is " Independence Hall," with its rare and pre- 
cious relics and its hallowed associations. Next we would place Girard 
College, famed for its architectural beauty; then Fairmount Park, 
which in itself is a country of romance and beauty not surpassed; next, 
the cemeteries, of which there are several ; and now trips into the shady 
nooks that lie along the banks of the Schuylkill and Wissahickon; and, 
finally, the immense number of public buildings, finishing off by prom- 
enades on the thronged streets, where a distinctive richness of fashion, 
good taste, and loveliness abounds when the day and weather are pro- 
pitious. 

It does not come within the scope of this work to deal minutely with 
the inner attractions of large cities. They are rarely the points of spe- 
cial interest for the summer tourist ; but an abundant variety of " sights " 
can always be found tabled to hand, in detail, in every city. But the 
mighty multitude who will throng to Philadelphia in the midsummer 
of next year will all have to reach the place, and get away afterwards. 
The copious and finely illustrated descriptive routes to be travelled and 
selected from all quarters, and especially in the admirable and most 
abundant lines of Pennsylvania, presented in these pages, will set every 
one at ease in selecting his line of march, — whether for this year or the 
next. As has been hinted, however, this part of our subject will have 
very special care in the issue for 1876. 

If a day-trip in the country is desired, either to mountains or sea- 
shore, these pages will furnish the tourist the fullest directions, with 
ample illustrations of i)rominent scenes along all the most desirable 
routes. " and how to reach them." 



214 



POPULAB KESOJJTS, AND HOW TO BEACH THEM. 



ILLUSTRATED PLEASURE ROUTE No. 17. 

Philadelphia to Reading, Pottsville, Williamsport, and the 
Coal Regions of Pennsylvania. 

PHILADELPHIA AND BEADING BAILROAD. 

How little the above heading serves to inform the reader of the extent 
of track controlled by this road, its branches and connections ! From 
Philadelphia to Reading, the original terminus, is only fifty-eight miles : 
the present line owned, leased, and operated by this company aggregates 
fifteen hundred miles. From Philadelphia to Reading is still the main 
line, which has been extended to Pottsville, Tamaqua, and Williamsport. 
From this, branches, large and small, lead in every direction ; some to 
beautify cities and villages, others into the fastnesses of the mountains, 
developing a diversity of enterprise and a wealth of sceneiy of unri- 
valled interest and beauty. Philadelphia is the starting-point, Reading 
and Pottsville the centres from which the principal branches diverge. 




COLUMBIA BRIDGE. 

Leaving Philadelphia from the commodious depot at Broad and Cal- 
lowhill Streets, we run through the built-up portions of the city for 
a half-mile to Fairmount Park. Skirting this, our course is taken 
along the Schuylkill River, which we cross at Columbia Bridge, and pass 
Belmont Station, near the entrance of Belmont Glen, which is justly 
known as one of the finest features of Philadelphia's great park ; hence 



POPULAlt KESOKTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

the popularity of this entrance. To accommodate 
the thousands who annually visit Fairmount, the 
Reading Railroad Company has organized what is 
known as "the park accommodation train," which 
affords superior facilities to visitors. ajsV^-J 

Just beyond the (ilen lie the grounds on which 
are being erected the buildings for the Exposi- 
tion, incident to the centennial 
anniversary of our nation's birth. 
These are pierced by lines of this 
road from three directions, afford- 
ing remarkable facilities and con- 
veniences for visitors ; and the 
territory which the road drains 



215 







^1^ 



=» <.:. 



•f 



»^^J/v'/■^ 



^^=-,. '■ - 






/ 



.J 



— .i> 

/ . THE SCHUYLKILL FROM COLUMBIA BRIDGIE. 

1^-^ and its numerous connections would 
seem to warrant for it an immense travel 
during the continuance of the exhibition. We 
4 are now fairly on the banks of the Schuylkill, 

' i the river of which the poet Moore sang and wrote ; on 
h-^~i whose banks he found that rest, though slight, which he 
had elsewhere sought in vain ; but while we fain would quote 
from the writings of one who it might be said immortalized 
this beautiful stream, yet, as we have not reached a distance of five miles 



216 



POPULAR RESORTS, ANB HOW TO REACH THEM. 



from our starting-place, with a passing look at Tom Moore's cottage, an 
admiring glance at Fairmount Park with Laurel Hill Cemetery infolded 
in its embrace, we glide along through other scenes of picturesque love- 
liness. Our route follows the windings of the river through Falls Village, 
Manayunk, and Conshohocken, until we reach Bridgeport, opposite Morris- 
town. The latter is a pleasant suburb of Philadelphia, with which it is 
connected by a branch-road, which has its depot at the corner of Ninth 
and Green Streets. This " branch " follows parallel with our course on the 

opposite side of the 
river, and the charm- 
ing scenery through 
which it lies ren- 
ders it an extremely 
popular route for 
Philadelphia ns 
seeking suburban 
residences. Bridge- 
port is the terminus 
of the " Chester Val- 
ley Branch," which 
leads through a re- 
gion of great loveli- 
ness. From Bridge- 
port the route con- 
tinues along the 
river bank, each turn 
cpening up new at- 
tractions and fresh 
charms of scenery, 
and each hamlet and 
village, as we speed 
along, displaying 
evidences of the gi- 
gantic industry for 
which this valley is 
famous. We still 
follow closely the 
banks of the Schuyl- 
kill, which glides 
quietly and grace- 
fully along the green 

VALLEY FORGE. fl^j^g ^{^^^ ^^,^3 

down to meet it, and all flies like a dream of contentment. 




POPUr.AK KKSOKTS, AND HOW TO UEACII THEM. 



217 



We now reach Valley Forge, memorable in the annals of the nation 
for the sufferings of the patriot army under Washington during the 
winter of 1777-8. The place of encampment, the old earth vvoi-ks, 
and lines of intrenchment, still exist. This region forms a delightful 
ramble : the surrounding scenery is picturesque and beautiful, which, in 
connection with the historical associations, makes Valley Forge a place 
of great interest to all classes. Many an interesting story, handed down 
from generation to generation, can be told to a ready listener. 

Just above Valley Forge Perkiomen Creek empties into the Schuyl- 
kill. The valley through which this stream flows is noted for the quiet 
beauty of its scenery, its mineral and agricultural resources. It was for 
many years the abode of Audubon, the great naturalist, in whose works 
reference is made to many rare birds that seek shelter there. 

The Perkiomen " Branch " Railroad, following the line of this creek, 
extends at present twenty-three miles in a north-easterly direction to- 
wards Allentown, its prospective terminus. When completed, this road 
will form a new and attractive pleasure route between Philadelphia and 
all points in the Lehigh Valley, one of the most picturesque regions in 
the State, to Northern Pennsylvania and Central and Western New York. 




SCHUYLKILL RIVER ABOVE POTTSTOWN, PENN. 



Phoenixville is situated at the mouth of French Creek, which flows 
through a remarkably fertile valley. This is the terminus of the Pick- 
ering Valley " Branch " Railway, extending back eleven miles. At Phoe- 
nixville is located one of the largest rolling-mills in the country, v;hich 
will well repay a visit. 



218 POPULAR KESOKTS, ANI> HOW TO BEACH THEM. 

The railway station is of brown stone, artistically designed and conven- 
iently arranged, and is quite attractive in appearance. On approaching 
the depot the train leaves the main track, and runs under a covered 
way, affording shelter, and avoiding danger from passing trains. 

Shortly after leaving this place we enter a tunnel, from which we 
emerge to cross to the east bank of the river. PottstO'Wn is the next 
point of interest reached. This is a thriving borough of 4,125 inhabit- 
ants. It is pleasantly situated, with pretty surroundings and a fine fer- 
tile country beyond. Very extensive repair-shops of the company are 
located at this place. The train here crosses Manatawny Creek over a 
bridge 1,071 feet long. 

At Douglassville we cross in quick succession, near their mouths, the 
Manatawny and Monocacy Creeks, each adding scenic beauties to the 
route. 

We next pass Birdsboro', a smaller but quite pretty village. Our route 
is still on the banks of the Schuylkill. Its current grows more rapid as we 
near the mountains, which rise threateningly in our front : the scenery 
changes with each mile of advance. Still following the valley which 
Nature has formed for the river, we suddenly glide aromid the curves, and 
find ourselves at the City of Reading, surrounded and overlooked by 
hills, — Mount Penn, Mount Gibraltar, and Xcrcrsinl; — which converge to 
shelter this beautiful town, lying within their embrace. The river, after 
twisting and turning into curves and loops, escapes from the hills at last, 
and, leaving the city behind, starts on its race for the sea. 

We are now at the terminus of the original Philadelphia and Reading 
Railroad ; yet of the present organization we have but reached the cen- 
tre — hewt — of the roads owned and operated by that noted corporation. 
Reading is not only one of the most important railroad centres in the 
State, but it is one of the most charming towns to visit. Its hills and 
suburbs are famed for their pleasant walks and delightful drives. Its 
citizens are courteous and hospitable. A four-years' sojourn enables the 
author to speak from experience, and to know whereof he speaks. Read- 
ing is a flourishing city of forty thousand people, and in size stands third 
in the State. Here we find rolling-mills, foundries, car and machine 
shops of gigantic proportions and unrivalled enterprise. And here, too, 
we find one of the finest union depots in the country, affording superior 
accommodations to travellers, to which the trains on all converging roads 
centre. The management is most complete and exemplary. AVithout 
system it would be impossible to meet and transact safely this enormous 
business. The clock in the depot tower is connected by electric wires 
with the clock of the main office in Philadelphia, and again with the 
clocks of the several departments within : hence every vibration in Phil- 
adelphia has a corresponding response fi-ora every other timepiece at this 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 219 

depot. Consequently not only the passengers, but the depot-master, 
ticket-sellers, train-master, conductors, and engineers, are simultaneously 
guided by the same standard of time. In a depot like this, where trains 
are constantly arriving and departing in all directions, the value of such 
an arrangement is naturally suggestive to the intelligent mind. 

Nor does the watchful care for the comfort and interests of guests end 
here : indeed, this is but an index of the entire organization. The pas- 
.senger cars are supplied with the Westinghouse brake and Miller ]ilat- 
form. Steel rails are giving place to iron, and stone ballast to gravel, 
and all with the happiest results. 

The Lebanon Valley Branch leads westward fifty-four miles to Harri-s- 
burg, where connection is made with the Pennsylvania Railroad for 
I'ittsburg and the West ; with the *■ Northern Central " north and south ; 
and also with the Cumberland Valley Railroad. Six miles south of 
Lebanon are located the famous Cornwall iron-ore deposits, in three ele- 
vations, called Glassy Hill. Middle Hill, and Big Hill. The ore lies on 
the surface to the maximum depth of three h iindred and twenty feet in 
the centre, and covering a surface of one hmidred acres ; and, though it 
has been worked more than a century, there are no signs of exhaustion, 
while the quality constantly improves. It is found in the form of cor- 
roded earth, and is shovelled up as readily as garden mould, and trans- 
ported by rail to the furnaces. At Sinl'nui Sprinr/s, six miles from Read- 
ing, on the road to Lebanon, the Reading and Columbia Railroad diverges 
to the left to Columbia, on the Susquehanna River, forty-five miles distant. 
Two verj' popular sununer resorts are located on this route, — Bphrata 
and Litz Springs, — affording good accommodations for summer boarders. 
The line also passes through Lancaster, forty-two miles distant, an old 
and pleasant town, where connection is made with the Penn.sylvania 
Railroad. The East Penn. Branch leads east from Reading through a 
delightful agricultural region, thirty-six miles to AUentown. on the 
Lehigh River. The valleys in which these two branches are located are 
fertile, and are aptly known as the garden counties of the State,- — Leba- 
non, Lancaster, Berks, and Lehigh, the aggi'egate value of whose agricul- 
tural products was in 1874 upwards of seventy-eight nuHion dollars, 
while the manufacturing interests are estimated at seventy-five million 
dollars. Exhibitions of varied interest to this value are rare indeed. 

We have left the Schuylkill, and our description has taken us to the 
Susquehanna and Lehigh. Let us now return to our old companion. 
Passing north from Reading, the low^ land begins gradually to struggle 
with the mountains, the latter getting the final victory, giving an 
advantage in favor of the picturesque. Penetrating the recesses of the 
highlands, the road emerges at Port Clinton (seventy-eight miles from 
Philadelphia), the junction of the Schuylkill and Little Schuylkill Rivers. 



220 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



The streams rise not far apart in the coal hills to the north, and, describ- 
ing two great curves, meet again at this point. The station here is of 
brown stone with turreted roof, and has an exceedingly tasty and antique 
appearance. Fifteen miles to the northward the main line of this com- 
pany ends at Pottsville, to reach which, however, we follow the twistings 
and bindings of the river in its tortuous course among the hills, passing 




MOUNT uARBONi 



the station at Auburn. Schuylkill Haven and 
Mount Carbon are also centres of considerable 
importance, from which lead " branches " right 
and left to the coal regions beyond. 
"^^"^ Our next point of interest is Pottsville (ninety 

three miles from Philadelphia), with a population of about sixteen 
thousand. This is the second terminus in the history of this road, and 
is the centre around which revolves the immense trade of Schuylkill 
County. Passenger trains leave several times daily in all directions. 



POPULAU JtKSOKTS, AND HOW TO I4KACU THEM. 



221 



Pottsville, where the hotel accommodations are good, we would advise 
as a headquarters for those who wish to spend several days in the 
coal regions. The Mansion House at iSIount Carbon, one mile short of 
Pottsville, can be heartily recommended as a first-class establishment in 
every particular. Its situation at the foot of Sharp Mountain, its pic- 




^' 



LITTLE SCHUYLKILL RIVER. 
Above Port Clinton. 



turesque surroundings, the fine views of the valleys and river, linger long 
in the memory of the visitor. 

We now return to Port Clinton, and in a northerly direction continue 
by the Little Schuylkill Branch to Tamaqua. The scenery here is wild 
in the extreme, and especially fine and romantic. The tourist should be 



222 



POPULAK RESOKTS, AND HOW TO REACH THKM. 



thankful that the pursuit of anthracite coal and the love of gain has 
caused railroads to be built through ravines and valleys which under 
other circumstances would hardly have been attempted. After trav- 
elling twenty miles, Tamaqua, a thriving town of five thousand inhabit- 
ants, is reached. Here we find a new and very tasty depot, in which is 




wss^m 



MAHANOY PLANE. 

a well-appointed res- 
taurant, with twenty 
minutes allowed for 
dinner: this is quite 
refreshing after a four hours' ride, the time it takes the through AVil- 
liamsport Express to run from Philadelphia to this point. 

We are now in the centre of the coal interests of Schuylkill County. 
To reach the principal mines, and to see the manner of mining and 
transporting coal, we now leave the direct route from Philadelphia to 
Willi amsport, and strike to the west by the East Mahanoy " Branch," 
passing Mahanoy City, Girardville, Mahanoy Plane (from which a branch 
to Shenandoah City diverges), Ashland, and Gordon, and thence out 
through Shamokin to Herndon, a waterside town on the Susquehanna. 



POPULAK KESOIITS, AND HOW TO RKACH THEM. 



223 



At Mahanoy Plane, as its name implies, is an inclinpd plane for 
raising coal-cars from the valley 

to the top of the mountain, from ^.^ ^^ 

which they run by continuous =^=- ft- -^ 

down-grade to Mount Carbon. This ,^ ^:^ 

plane is 2,410 feet long, rising in - ^ 
perpendicular height 354 feet. 
At the head of the plane we are vT^ 






BROOKSIDE. 

but twelve miles 
from Pottsville 
by the descend- 
ing grade, by 
which coal is 
transported. The 
object of the 
plane is thus apparent when we 
consider the distance to that point 
around through the valleys by 
which we came. 

The towns enumerated have a 
mixed population, estimated at forty thousand people. We soon reach 
Gordon, at the foot of the Gordon Planes. The lower plane has a length 
of 4,755 feet, and arise of 404, placing you 1,206 feet above tide; the 
upper is somewhat shorter, though steeper. From the top, or head, of 
this plane, coal-cars are run down nineteen miles to Schuylkill Haven. 
The picturesque station of Brookside is reached by leaving the main 



224 



POPULAR RESOKTS, AND HOW TO BEACH THEM. 



line at Auburn, between Port Clinton and Schuylkill Haven, and contin- 
uing via " Susquehanna Branch," through Pine Grove; the tourist will not 
only pass thi-ough the exceedingly interesting geological regions marked 
by the Pine Grove and Lorberry coal-fields, but, continuing through 
Tower City, will meet continually scenes of great scenic interest, culmi- 
nating at the terminus of this " branch " at Brookside, — a spot which 




'>% 



SUSQUEHANNA RIVER, 
At Herndon. 



cannot fail to please the lover of Nature in her wildest moods. The 
view which here awaits the gaze of the visitor is one of singular com- 
bination. Artificial hillocks, the dust and debris of mines, rise thick and 
high about you ; coal-breakers, like enormous black spectres, rear their 
dizzy heights, to the very top of which the dull mule clambers with his 



POPULAB BESOBTS, AND HOW TO KEACII THEM. 225 

freight of coal. The oddity of the scene is attractive to the stranger ; 
and this is in the midst of, and surrounded by, the most striking land- 
scapes. As you gaze straight down the perspective of the valley, and 
mile beyond mile fades in blue distance, you feel that the vision must 
reach the distant Susquehanna at Harrisburg. Here is the artist's oppor- 
tunity for toil and pleasure : the practical and the ideal are most com- 
pletely and artistically blended. 

There is still another section lying farther to the north, rivalling this, 
both in the magnitude of its coal operations and the grandeur of its 
scenery, through which lies the Mahanoy and Shamokin Branch Rail- 
road, which passes through and thoroughly permeates the Mahanoy coal- 
field. This route terminates on the Susquehanna River at Herndon, 
amid scenery of the most lovely character. 

In connection with the movements of the coal and general carry- 
ing trade of this company, it would be well to give the tourist some 
idea of the machinery and material required for this enormous traffic. 
There are in use 405 locomotives, 15,073 coal-cars, 3,819 freight and 279 
passenger cars ; and during the fiscal year ending November, 1874, the 
tonnage of the road was, in coal, over six million tons, while that of 
merchandise was 3,088,000 tons. The number of passengers carried 
amounted to 6,965,000 ; and when we state that since this company has 
been in operation, it has carried over forty-one millions of jjassengers, 
awl never killed one, we say what we feel quite able to maintain, that 
this is more than can be truly said of any other railroad. 

Let us now return to the main, and from Tamaqua start again north- 
ward towards AVilliamsport, feeling that our time has been well spent in 
our peregrinations in the wilds of Pennsylvania, in viewing its wonderful 
scenery, and studying its mighty coal interests. In this frame of mind, 
we are in good condition to appreciate the startling grandeur of the 
scenes through which runs the Catawissa Branch Road. 

In the autumn of 1873, and again in the summer of 1874, it was the 
privilege of the author to run leisurely over this portion of the line, 
accompanied by D. C. Reinhart, Esq., local superintendent, imder cir- 
cumstances which enabled him to study carefully the artistic merits of 
the route. As a " special," with locomotive, parlor car, conductor, and 
pilot, our party had the road to itself for the day. We had sketching, 
berrying, and picnicking to our hearts' content. 

Seated in the last car, watching the changing diorama of the land- 
scape, we almost fail to notice that a gradual ascent is being made. We 
pass East Mahanoy Station, and reach Tamanend, where the " through 
car " from New York is attached, having come over the Central Railroad 
of New Jersey and its Lehigh and Susquehanna and Nesquehoning 
Branches, via Easton, Allentown, and Mauch Chunk. (See index.) 



226 POPULAR KESOKTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM. 

Leaving Tamanend we pass Quakake ; and now, in place of running 
along the valleys, we are getting up among the mountain tops, passing 
through tunnels, winding around curves, on some of which it appears 
as if the rear of the train was chasing the engine, and in danger of 
making a collision. In the original survey of this road, it was located 
on the highlands, while in later years it would have taken the valleys ; 
thus it required deep cuts, heavy piles, and tunnels. Here may be seen 
an American forest preserved in all its wildness ; and as we wind around 
the hills, climbing higher and still higher, the landscape widens, and 
objects in the valleys below grow small in the distance. Still upward 
and onward goes the train, twisting around the curves, and darting 
through the tunnels, imtil the summit is reached, and with which comes 
a feeling of relief ; for we have unconsciously been laboring and strain- 
ing to help the engine up the mountain side. Every puff seemed to find 
a corresponding echo within us, an inclination to push or help in some 
way; but now we are at rest, and drink in the wide-spread view 
before us. 

Some of the lowering hills, completely cleared to their summits, have 
been cultivated ; others in all their natural loveliness are covered with 
forest verdure. The valleys look deep, dark, and lonesome, with here 
and there a cultivated spot, with a snug little farmhouse nestled under 
the hillside, sheltered from the cold blasts of winter. The blue smoke 
that so gracefully curls from the chimney shows, that, although in the 
midst of coal, wood still holds sway as fuel, and promises to do so 
for years to come. 

In the valley, close to Girard Station, is a fine old homestead, which 
at one time was the residence of Stephen Girard, to whom Philadelphia 
is so greatly indebted for his munificent charities. The ground on 
which it stands is, we believe, part of that which was placed in trust 
to the city at the time of his death. 

Passing Mahanoy and Krebs Stations, we reach Ringtown, and near by 
is the first trestle-bridge over which the road crosses. It is a narrow 
valley, nearly 150 feet deep. From this point up to Catawissa there 
is a succession of these valleys which are spanned in a similar manner, 
excepting that at Mainville, where the trestle has been replaced by 
a first-class truss-bridge. 

We here get the first good view of Catawissa Creek, as it meanders 
through the valley far below us at our right. The scene is wild and 
picturesque. The creek seems but a narrow thread winding along the 
base of the mountains, — here and there lost to sight, and again widen- 
ing to a pleasant vista. It is a subject for the artist's pencil ; indeed, 
for many miles we watched with pleasure the changing views, unfolded 
like a vast panorama of selected scenes. 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



227 



We are now approaching Mainville Water Gap ; although less 
grand than those of the Delaware and Lehigh, it still forms a bold and 
enjoyable landscape. The valley is highly cultivated, but is shut la 
by bold hills, among which the creek winds until lost in their shadows. 





MAINVILLE WATER GAP. 

We seem completely hemmed in ; and, while wondering which way the 
train will find egress, we suddenly glide around the mountain, and 
emerge to the open country beyond, while the scene fades from view. 
We cross another trestle, obtaining a fine view of the McAuley and 
Nescopec, Mountains in the distance. A few miles beyond, Catawissa is 
reached. This quaint old town is situated on the North Branch of the 
Susquehanna, at the mouth of Catawissa Creek. Natui-e has done 



228 



POPULAR EESOBTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



much for this place, — all, in fact, that an artist could ask in combining 
the beautiful with the grand for a painting : bold mountain bluffs, deep 
wooded valleys, a brawling stream, a noble river spanned by bridges. 





CATAWISSA. 
Junction of the Catawissa Creek with the Susquehanna. 



every thing, indeed. But the town exhibits a want of thrift and energy 
that is painful to the stranger, who looks with pity upon a community 
upon which such fine natural advantages and artificial improvements 
are thrown away ; for this is a railway centre of no mean advantages. 
Thomas Moran, one of Philadelphia's best artists, once sketched and 
painted this enchanting scene. 



POPULAK KESOBTS, AND HOW TO REACH THKM. 229 

From Catawissa we cross the Susquehanna to Rupert, a junction 
station, where connection is made with trains on the Lackawanna and 
Bloomsburg Railroad, westward to Northumberland, and north-eastward 
to Wilkes Barre and Scranton, and by stage to Bloomsburg, a large 
manufacturing town, three miles distant. Visitors to Norlli Mountuln 
(see index) connect here by train for Shickshinny. From Rupert we 
follow the North Bi-anch of the Susquehanna to Danville, an important 
iron manufacturing town, having a population of ten thousand. The 
value of the industrial products of Montour County for 1874 is estimated 
at seven million dollars, most of which was produced at Danville. 

We are now fairly down into the valley ; and moving north-westerly 
through Montour and Northumberland Counties, both good agricultural 
districts, we reach the West Branch of the Susquehanna at Milton, 
an attractive place, pleasantly situated for those who desire a few weeks' 
rest and quiet. The hotels are fair in size, and very well kept, with 
charges moderate. 

The towns of New Columbia and several river stations are now passed 
in rapid succession. We have gradually left the coal regions, and with- 
out apparent knowledge have been creeping into the very heart of the 
largest lumber region in the State. 

Muncy is a fast-growing waterside town, the outlet for the lumber 
brought by rail and water from the Muncy Creek region. From Milton 
we pass IMontoursville, another lumber manufacturing town, and, gliding 
along the river bank, surrounded by landscapes the most charming, we 
rapidly approach the city of Williamsport, where this road has its north- 
ern terminus, and where it connects with the Philadelphia and Erie Rail- 
way for Lock Haven, the oil regions, Erie, and the West ; also with the 
" Northern Central " for Elmira, Watkins Glen, and Canandaigua, con- 
necting at the former with the " Erie," and at the latter place with the 
New York Central Railroads, for Buffalo, Rochester, Niagara Falls, and 
all principal points in Western New York, the Dominion of Canada, and 
the West. 

Williamsport has a population of sixteen thousand; is beautifully 
located on the West Branch of the Susquehanna, has a number of large 
hotels and fine private residences, and excels iu these particulars any 
city of its size in Pennsylvania. The lumber business is the leading 
feature : a walk through what is called the " basin " among the mills 
will cause you to wonder at the immensity of that interest. 

The stock of lumber, lath, and pickets on hand in this region Jan. 
1, 1874, amounted to 30.3,947,165 feet. 

This great corporation, over whose track we have passed through so 
many scenes of industry, wealth, and landscape beauty, has many other 
interests than those described in this article. It owns or controls 153 



230 



POI'ULAB RESORTS, AND HOW TO KKACH THEM. 



miles of canal, has an immense coal shipping depot in the northern or 
Richmond District of Philadelphia; it owns fourteen steam colliers, 
having an aggregate carrying capacity of 15,500 tons, in which it trans- 
ports, together with canal barges, large quantities of coal to the 
Eastern markets. It has its own shipyard for building and repairing 
the colliers, and within itself manufactures nearly all of the principal 
material used in the operation of a railroad. 




COAL TRANSPORT. 

Tn tracing the combined lines of the Philadelphia and Reading Rail- 
road our course has led through many and varied scenes of rural and 
mountain scenery; but Philadelphians are not confined to mountain 
scenery alone : the whole New Jersey coast is at their doors, than which 
there are no more delightful seaside resorts in the land. The excellent 
railway facilities furnished by the Camden and Atlantic Railroad have 
contributed largely to the jiopularity of ^//an^/c Ci/3/, specially noted for 
its dry, salubrious climate. 

Long Brnnch is also easily reached, though not as popular with 
Philadelphians as Atlantic City and Cape May. 

Cape Ma// is also readily accessible, and is the fashionable resort of 
Philadelphians. 



POPULAB KESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 231 

Long Branch, " one of the most popular seaside resorts in America, 
is in Monmouth County, N.J. It was visited for health and recreation 
previous to 1812 ; and, soon after the termination of the war with Great 
Britain, hotels were opened for the accommodation of visitors. Still its 
magnitude is of recent growth ; and the last fifteen years have done more 
for its development and improvement than the preceding fifty had accom- 
plished. Its hotel accommodations are sufficient for fifteen thousand 
persons ; yet each recurring season crowds them to their full capacity. 
Elegant and spacious cottages, owned and occupied by persons of distinc- 
tion, line the principal avenues for long distances, some of them being 
surrounded with extensive grounds, highly ornamented and carefully kept. 

" The beach at Long Branch is famous for its natural grandeur, as well 
as for its artificial attractions. It is an open bluff, rising some twenty 
feet or more above the tide-line, and extending a distance of five miles. 
Along this, the grand drive is constructed, and the principal hotels are 
erected. Here, during the season, showy and elegant equipages dash, in 
passing and repassing lines, while the verandas and porticoes are thronged 
with spectators. No view could well be more animated or attractive than 
this, with its life, gayety, and beauty, relieved by the wide and restless 
ocean, swelling and rolling in boundless perspective. Some of the inland 
drives are equally pleasant ; and, in fact, the facilities everywhere offered 
for this exhilarating enjoyment may be ranked as one of the greatest 
attractions of the place. 

"The Monmouth Park race-course is a few miles from Long Branch; 
and its annual meetings rank among the most popular in America. 
These take place during the ' season ; ' and the list of entries generally 
embraces all the famous horses on the turf. Nothing on this side of the 
Atlantic so nearly approaches an English 'Derby Day' as a sweepstake 
at Monmouth Park, when the multitudes from New York, Philadelphia, 
and all other adjacent cities and towns, pour out to witness the famed 
steeds contend for the championship." 

The State of New Jersey fails to offer any natural wonders to attract 
its share of the sight-hunting and money-spending thousands, who afford 
a summer harvest for more favored States. But her beaches are among 
the finest, as elsewhere described. Doubtless spots of landscape exist 
worthy of some delay to those flitting birds of passage ; but the Jerseyites 
make their summer jaunts to more attractive regions than they can find 
at home. Their broad, extended beaches, which prove such sources of 
pleasure to the citizens of other States, fail to interest them. For- 
tunately, a few hours' ride will take them to the picturesque region of 
Pennsylvania, where they will find momitains and rocks to their heart's 
content. 



232 POPULAB RESOKTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM. 

CAPE MAY. 

This old, established, and most justly celebrated watering-place is 
situated at the extreme southern point of New Jersey, on a narrow 
peninsula extending a distance of ten miles, bounded by the waters of 
the Atlantic Ocean on one side, and the Delaware Bay on the other. 

For more than half a century it has been the resort of persons seeking 
health and pleasure during the heated term of the summer months. 

The perfect safety of the surf-bathing, and the firmness of its broad, 
even, and unbroken beach, are unequalled at any other seaside resort. 

The difficulty in reaching Cape May prevented for many years the 
rapid improvements its admirable location seemed to warrant, until the 
West-Jersey Railroad Company, appreciating the immense advan- 
tages to be gained, have from time to time extended their lines, and in 
1863 opened an all-rail route from Philadelphia. 

Pleasure tourists, at once becoming acquainted with the facilities thus 
afforded, flocked to the Cape. Property increased in value ; handsome 
and costly cottages were erected, large and commodious hotels built, 
novelties introduced ; and great improvements were manifest. 

The Railroad Company did not confine its efforts merely to building 
the road, but aided generously with its capital, not only individual enter- 
prises, but those to develop the natural advantages of the place. 

It now became the resort for the elite and fashionables of Baltimore, 
Washington, Pittsburg, and Philadelphia ; and, among its many regular 
sojourners, Chicago, St. Louis, New Orleans, and San Francisco have 
their representatives. 

The hotels at this most popular watering-place are conducted in every 
manner equal to tlie principal hotels of our largest cities : the leading 
houses, the " Stockton,^ ^ '■^Congress Hall," and ^^ Columbia," each accommo- 
dating comfortably from one thousand to twelve hundred guests. 

The Stockton Hotel, under the management of Charles Duffy, Esq., of 
the Continental Hotel, Philadelphia, is without doubt the most attractive 
and commodious house to be found at any of our seaside resorts ; and, as 
a combination of mechanical and architectural beauty, it cannot be sur- 
passed. 

Congress Hall is the successful rival of the Stockton, and is under the 
proprietorship of Col. Cake, the popular landlord of Willard's Hotel, 
Washiiagton, D.C. These houses, with the " Columbia " and fifteen or 
twenty others, furnish excellent accommodations to visitors. 

Cape May can be reached direct from New York and Philadelphia by 
rail, via the Pennsylvania and West Jersey Railroads. Palace-cars are run 
through from New York without changes. Three express-trains are run 
daily from Philadelphia, the time being about two and one-half hours. 



POPULAR RESOKTS, AND HOW TO REACH THKM. 



233 



ILLUSTRATED PLEASURE ROUTE No. 19. 

Philadelphia to the "Garden of the Atlantic Coast," 
Wilmington and Baltimore. 

PHILADELPHIA, WILMINGTOX, AND BALTIMORE RAILROAD. 



THE GARDEN OF THE 
ATLANTIC COAST. 

In a countiy like 
the United States of 
America, occupying 
twenty-five degrees 
of latitude and near- 
ly sixty degrees of 
longitude, divided 
from north to south 
by several ranges of 
lofty mountains, and 
drained by many 
mighty rivers, it is 
natural to suppose 
that every variety of 
climate, every qual- 
ity of soil, and every 
class of production, 
will be found ; afford- 
ing ample scope for 
the most diversified 
tastes, whether for 
permanent homes or 
temporary stopping 
places. Hence it is 
that mountain and 
sea-shore, waterfalls 
and springs, each 
have their admirers. 
There is a section, 
however, which, for 
the many points of 
excellence it embra- 
ces, is comparatively 
unknown, — yet a 
section, which for 




284 



POPUI.AB KESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 




the fertility of its 
soil, the salubrity of 
its climate, and the 
abundance of its 
fruits, has won for it 
the appellation of the 
Garden of the Atlan- 
tic Coast. 

It is here that the 
early luxuries are 
grown that grace the 
tables of every city 
north of Mason and 
Dixon's Line. It is 
here that the lus- 
cious peach is pluck- 
ed and strawberry 
gathered almost be- 
fore the blossom is 
shed in a more 
northern climate. 

If the reader will 
turn to the map of 
the United States, 
this garden can be 
easily pointed out, 
for its bounds were 
set by the Great 
Architect of the uni- 
verse when the world 
began. The waters 
of Delaware Bay and 
the broad Atlantic 
lave its eastern 
shores, and the Ches- 
apeake separates it 
from the main land. 
It is here that our 
choicest luxuries are 
grown. 

The production of 
this peninsula, in 
garden fruits, is 



POPULAR RESORTS, ANT) HOW TO RKACH THEM. 



235 



simply enormous. A 
' ' strawberry patch" 
of fifty or one hun- 
dred acres, or a 
• 'fruit yard ' ' of thir- 
ty or forty thousand 
lieach-trees, is no un- 
common sight, upon 
wliich hundreds of 
busy hands are en- 
gaged in gathering 
and shipping the 
fruit. Nor do the 
attractions of this 
peninsula end with 
the fruits it pro- 2 
duces ; for it is the ^ 
paradise of sports- ^ 
men. Both fish and 5 
game abound. Can- ^ 
vas-back ducks are P 
specially plentiful in q 
the autumn : and th^ c/i 
immense yield of rn 
oysters in its bays y, 
is a notable feature. - 
At Cristfield, the | 
great oyster mart, ^ 
fleets of vessels are 
constantly arriving 
and departing dur- 
ing the shipping 
season. Nearly sur- 
rounded by water, 
with the restless 
current of the Gulf- 
Stream flowing along 
its coast, the temper- 
ature is warmer in 
winter and cooler 
in sunamer than in 
other sections of the 
same latitude. 




236 



POPUI.AK KESOKTS, ANH HOW TO liEACH THEM. 



The "Branch" to the Peninsula diverges from the main line at 
Delaware Junction, thirty miles from the City of Philadelphia. 

This road, commenced in 1832 from Baltimore to Port Deposit, was 
consolidated as the Philadelphia, Wilmington, and Baltimore, and 
finished to Philadelphia in 1838, since which time it has steadily im- 
proved in its character and equipments, and advanced in popular favor. 

The cars leave Philadelphia from the Company's depot, corner of 
Broad Street and Washington Avenue, and also at its New York connec- 




RIDLEY STATION 

tion, corner of Thirty-first and Market Streets. Within the last decade 
the suburbs along this line have been remarkably improved. 

The stations along the road are a noticeable feature. These are not 
only placed at convenient intervals, but great artistic taste has been dis- 
played in their design and decoration. The result is obvious. Persons 
of like tastes — wealthy citizens of Philadelphia, seeking suburban 
homes — choose localities of which they can speak with pleasure ; and the 
emphasis with which they allude to ' ' our depot ' ' is always interesting. 

As a result of this liberal movement on the part of the Company, 
many elegant villas and country residences have been erected along the 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



237 



line of the road. That of Mr. F. O. C. Darley, the celebrated artist 
delineator of American life and scenery, whose illustrations have glad- 
dened so many hearts, is subjoined as a sample of the picturesque 
character of these structures. 

The scenery along the line of the Philadelphia, Wilmington, and 
Baltimore Railroad is a fine, rolling country, divided by woodland and 
field. Many stately mansions, with their numerous outlying buildings, 
crown the ridges, about which lingers an air of independence and com- 
fort. The through train glides along, flashing past farms and stations, 
affording many broad and pleasing views of the Delaware River at the 
left. 




RESIDENCE OF F. O. C. DARLEY, ESQ. 

Wilmington is the chief city of the State of Delaware, has 30,840 
inhabitants, and is pleasantly located on land sloping down to the river. 
The town is regularly built, and has many churches and public build- 
ings, and is the seat of considerable manufacturing interest. 

There are many pleasing localities in the neighborhood. The Brandy- 
wine Springs are near, and as a summer resort have a fine local fame. 
The waters are recommended by the medical faculty ; and good hotel 
accommodations will be found. 

The Wilmingtox and Reading Railroad diverges from "Wilming- 
ton, and, continuing up the valley of the Brandywine, intersecting the 
Philadelphia and Reading Railroad at Birdsboro', opens up a route of 
great historic interest and scenic beauty. Eighteen miles beyond Wil- 



238 



POPULAB RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



mington, at Elkton, we cross the famous Mason and Dixon's Line. "Lit- 
tle did Charles Mason and Jeremiah Dixon dream, as they set that tangent 

point for the de- 
termination of 
boundary-lines of 
tliree States, how 
famous they 
would become." 
We are now rap- 
idly approaching 
the Susquehan- 
na at Havre de 
(Irace, a region 
filled with game, 
and the shooting- 
ground for sports- 
men. The Ches- 
apeake Bay here 
meets the Sus- 
quehanna River; 
and through hun- 
dreds of estuaries 
the bay intwines 
with the outlets 
of the river : the 
coast line is often 
lost in winding 
bays, or among 
the projecting 
lieadlands and 
foliage-clad 
shores. A good 
locality for camp- 
ing-out parties. 

Havre de Grace is also noted for its magnificent bridge over the Sus- 
quehanna, 3,273 feet long, which in itself is worthy a chapter ; and its 
scenery possesses many points of interest, particularly if the tourist has 
the time for a short detour up the Port Deposit Branch Road to Perry- 
ville. The route leads under an overhanging cliff called Mount Ararat, 
which strengthens and gives fresh vai-iety to the scenery. 

Continuing ixora Havre de Grace to Baltimore, the rolling character of 
the scenery increases, with many fine water views, and much of interest 
to the tourist. This is the direct line from the North to the South. 




MOUNT ARARAT. 



H)I»ULAK IJKSOKTH, AND HOW TO RKAC'II TIIKM. 239 



ILLUSTRATED PLEASURE ROUTE No. 20. 

Baltimore and Washington to Fortress Monroe, Hampton 
Roads, and Vicinity. 

FOKTUIOSS MOMiOK. 

Foirriucss Monroe and its iiniiu'diub! siirromuliiicrs to Americans 
certainly, and to a large number ol' Europeans, has now become classic. 
It was here the Army of tli(! Potomac first landed in Virginia, on its 
memorable mareh up the Peninsula, undergoing all the terrible trials 
and sufferings of a protractcid and bloody war ; it was luu-e that four 
years later this same army embarked for the liomes tliey so longed 
to reach, with [)eace again ruling o'er the nation; here, too, under 
the eyes of thousands of anxious watchers, the great batth; of the " Merri- 
mack " and " Monitor " was fought : many y(!t resident at Old Point give 
vivid descriiitions of every event in that mighty conflict, and mark the 
steps of its progress to the listener with vivid scenes of it before him. 

The fortress itself — the largi^st in the; Unite(l States — is a grand 
f(!ature in the attractiveness of the locality, and contains within it many 
objects of the greatest interest to tlie visitor. Its extensive and beautiful 
parade, shaded with live-oaks; its slopes, coated with green from March 
until November; and its garrison, the famed Artilhny School, with the 
music of an excellent band at the morning guard mount and the even- 
ing dress parade, give to the visitor ]ilcasui-(\s to be found at very few 
resorts in our country. 

There is within the fortress, also, a museum containing objects of 
great interest to the civilian as well as to the soldier; and many hours 
may be pleasantly and profitably passed by the visitor in looking over 
the collection. 

The drives in th(! vicinity to the IIam[)ton Normal School, the Na- 
tional Military Home, the National Cemcstery, and to and through 
the town oi Hampton, are over good roads, and also command many 
exceedingly interesting landscape views. In the town of Hampton is 
one of the oldest churches in our country, the inscriptions on some of the 
tombs in its cemetery bearing date as early as IO.'jS. 

For the invalid,' as well as the robust pleasure-seeker, the climate 
at Old Point Comfort is unsurpassed for salubrity, and is exceptionally 
free from great and sudden changes in temperature, in support of which 
is the range of the thermometer here, as taken from the notes of 
the Meteorological Observatory. These show an average for the past 
ten years of 48°, 52°, and (j;5° for the spring; 60°, 74°, and 76°, for the 
summer ; 70°, 59 , and 46°, for the autumn ; and 45 , 44°, and 42° for the 
winter months. 



240 



POPULAE RESORTS, AJSTD HOW TO REACH THEM. 



The invalid en route for the warmer climate of Florida to recuperate, 
or returning therefrom, and fearing to face the rigors of an uncertain 
month in 
spring at the 
North, may- 
find a rest- 
ing place at 
Fortress 
Monroe, free 
from all dan- 
ger of sud- 
den and vio- 
lent changes 
in tempera- 
ture. Boat- 
ing and fish- 
ing may be 
enjoyed ful- 
ly on and in 
the broad 
waters of 
Hampton 
Roads and 
Che s apeake 
Bay, and the 
fish are very 
plentiful and 
excellent in 
character. 
The Hamp- 
ton Bar and 
Lynhaven 
oysters, de- 
servedly cel- 
e b r a t e d 
wherever 
this luxury 

is known, are here found in abundance. The bathing also is very fine, 
the beach being of an easy and continuous slope, and unusually free from 
large pebbles. 

The Hygeia Hotel, lately built at Fortress Monroe, or Old Point Comfort, 
as it was generally named by visitors in ante-bellum times, takes the 
place of the one of that name which was in existence before the war, 



3, o 

o H 

j3. m 




POPULAR RESOKTS, AND HOW TO KEACH TUEM. 241 

and was patronized by many of the best of our people from all sections of 
the Union. This hotel is most thoroughly built and elegantly furnished, 
and its situation is admirable, far superior to the old Hygeia, and is in 
all its appointments every way worthy of its beautiful locality. It 
stands upon the beach, at the head of the broad and substantial landing 
provided by the National Government for the various steamers which 
touch here daily to land their passengers and mails. From its balconies 
and corridors, the view of Hampton Roads and Chesapeake Bay is 
unsurpassed. Even Cape Henry and Cape Charles light-houses may 
be seen on a clear day, or their lights by night, without the aid of a 
glass. Vessels of all classes, steam and sail, American and foreign, are 
passing at all times or riding at their anchors in sight from every room. 
The ever-changing scenes from the balconies are a source of never-ending 
interest and pleasure. Fortress Monroe may be reached daily from Bal- 
timore by the splendid steamers of the Baltimore Steam Packet Company 
(Old Bay Line), which connect at Baltimore with through trains to and 
from Philadelphia, Xew York, and all northern points, and from New 
York by the elegant steamships of the Old Doininion Steamship Company. 
The steamers for Washington, Richmond, Norfolk, Cherrystone, York- 
town, and Cobb's Island, also touch here, both going and returning, 
affording unsurpassed mail facilities from every section of the country. 
In conducting the hotel, every effort is made by the proprietor to insure 
the comfort and pleasure of his guests, and to make the " Hygeia " in 
every respect worthy of patronage. The table is supplied in abundance 
with eA^ery delicacy of a locality rich in edibles rare in more northern 
latitudes ; and facilities are provided for bathing, boating, and Jishing, all 
of which can be reached literally at the doorstep of the house. 





^ ^^^^^Bv^^l^HH^ 


\.^ 


f^'V:"^ 


VSs«;-^feif^''^S 


^^i^^^*"""" 



242 



POPULAR EESORTS, AND HOW TO BEACH THEM. 



ILLUSTRATED PLEASURE ROUTE No. 21. 

Philadelphia, New York, and the East, to Harrisburg, 
Pittsburg, the West, and South-west. 

THE PENNSYLVANIA RAILROAD. 

The Pennsylvania Railroad may well be said to stand at the head of 
the railway system of America. Like the aorta of the human body, which 
connects the heart with other important organs, thence ramifying into 
the extremities, this road, with its branches and connections, forms the 
great central line of the country. It not only extends a greater number of 




miles, uses more run 

mng stock, and employs | 

more men, than any l 

other, but in point of '■ 

construction it is con 

sidered the model rail 

road of the United 

States The budges 

alone, in the scientific 

knowledge and artistic 

beauty displayed in their construction, would form an exhaustive 

subject for description. The Coatesville Bridge, at the village of 

Coatesville, is a beautiful and imposing structure. It stretches 



COATESVILLE BRIDGE. 



POPULAR KESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



243 



eight hundred and fifty feet across a chasm, and is seventy-five 
feet high. Like many of the bridges along this road, it is built 
of iron supported by stone pillars, thus securing strength and dura- 
bility with architectural beauty combined. Indeed, this is a distinctive 
feature of the Pennsylvania Railroad; and throughout the entire line 
no expense is spared in the construction of bridges and culverts. 




CONNECTING RAILROAD BRIDGE, 
Fairmount Park, Philadelphia. 

" So far as scenery goes, no lines of railroad on the continent can sur- 
pass those running through Pennsylvania. Magnificent agricultural 
panoramas, beautiful river views, splendid mountain pictures, picturesque 
hills and valleys, lovely villages, and flourishing towns and cities, are 
seen in quick succession. A ride of twelve hours between Philadelphia 
and Pittsburg shows more interesting variety than can be seen in the 
same time and distance anywhere else in the United States. 

" On, on, on, goes this tireless train, over a clear track, carrying the 
traveller by a panorama, the like of which can be found nowhere else on 
this continent, and probably not in the M'orld. After having break- 
fasted in the Mississippi Valley, and dined at the capital of Pennsylvania, 
the passenger finds himself seated at supper in the metropolis of New 
York, where the Atlantic throbs and swells in its ceaseless activity. 

" It is no new thing to say that the scenery on the line of the Penn- 
sylvania road is beautiful, and in many places grand. Every American 




Hi!!Jillililiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii,'»i> iiiiiiiiiiii 



POPULAi: RESORTS, AND HOW TO RKACH THEM. 



245 



who travels or reads has seen or heard of it: and the pencils of many- 
artists have labored lovingly to portray, for popular gratification, the at- 
tractions of the Alleghany mountains; the Juniata, Susquehanna, and 
Conemaugh Rivers, and the wonderful agricultural vales of Lancaster 
and Chester Counties, through which this road runs. Long sweeps of 
wooded hills; lofty inountains and dark ravines; picturesque valleys 
opening into each other; sparkling and placid waters ; wide, rolling, pas- 
toral landscapes, — follow in rapid succession. The magnificent rivers 
are crossed by corresponding bridges. The bold moimtain ranges and 
wild ravines, which would have disheartened a less enterprising company, 
are overcome by feats of engineering skill, which, combined with the 
natural artistic features of the country, make this the most interesting 
route in America. 




INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION. 
Philadelphia, April 19, 1876. 



Li the approaching anniversary of our nation's birth, when Philadel- 
phia shall become the central point of atti-action, and tourists by thou- 
sands leave their distant homes to view the spot where a few honored 
men dared to brave the anger of a British Crown and proclaim freedom 
to a nation, this line, more than any other, will bear them on their way, 
affording opportunity to thousands to test its accommodations and attrac- 
tions. As each mile passed brings them nearer the city they will remark 
with surprise the remarkable rapidity of the train and the complete 
arrangements with which every detail of the work is accomplished. 
A few years ago a man who would have predicted such improve- 
ments would have been pronomiced hopelessly insane, not even the 



246 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



most sanguine enthusiast on railroads, when their construction was com- 
menced, dreamed of overcoming distance so rapidly and at such a rate ; 
and it is only because of the perfection of machinery and the inventions 
of science that it can be done now. 




FAIRMOUNT PARK, PHILADELPHIA. 

Tourists, especially for pleasure, can scarcely find a more desirable spot 
for a day's enjoyment than Fairmount Park. Central Park of New York 
is older, and has received more artificial embellishments ; but in size, or 
in the character of natural attractions, Fairmount has no equal in Amer- 
ica. It contains nearly three thousand acres, — more than three times as 
large as Centi-al Park. The beautiful Schuylkill flows through it, afford- 
ing a great variety of fine water views, with admirable facilities for 
boating. In addition to this, the Wissahickon — famous for its charm- 
ing, picturesque scenery — contributes six miles of leafy banks to its 
adornment. The Fairmount Water- works, which have been in operation 
since 1822; the celebrated Wire Bridge; the bronze statue of Lincoln; 
the mansion of Kobert ]\It)rris of Revolutionary fame, once the resort of 
illustrious men, now fallen to decay, — are among the attractions. But 
nothing short of a personal visit can convey an idea of its beauties. 

The charming Wissahickon of itself indelibly fixes for Fairmount 
Park a pre-eminence over any of its competitors. It is rare, indeed, that 



POPULAR UKSOKTS, AND HOW TO UKACII THEM. 247 

a city of the m.agnitude of rhiladelphi.a can boast within its borders a 
"retreat" of such rich variety and exquisite loveliness. A more pleasing 
combination of the wild and picturesque, the grand and beautiful, cannot 
be found in America, than are ]M-esented on the banks of the Wissahickon. 

F a i r m u n t can be 
reached by .several lines 
of street railway, or niu 
Penn.sylvania Railroad to 
Ilestonville, West Tliila- 
delphia, which is three 
miles from the depot at 
Thirty-second and Market 
streets. 

STATISTICAr, DATA. 

The Pennsylvania Rail- 
road (main line) formerly 
extended from Philadel- 
phia to Pittsburg, a dis- 
tance of three hundred 
and fifty-four miles. Now 
it has its eastern termini 
at New York, Philadel- 
phia, Baltimore, and 
Washington ; and unites 
them, by its own direct 
lines, wit It Pittsburg, 
Krie, Cleveland, Toledo, 
Chicago, Cincinnati, In- 
ilianapolis, Louisville, and 
;-'t. Louis. Connections 

HESTONVILLE, NEAR PHILADELPHIA. '"'« -"^'SO made with St. 

Paul, Duluth, Omaha, 
Denver, the cities of California, and with Memphis, Mobile, and New 
Orleans. 

To transact its extended and diversified business, the Company now 
owns, and runs upon its own lines, eleven hundred locomotives, one thou- 
sand passenger cars, and twenty-six thousand freight cars. It owns two 
thousand miles of completed road, besides the other thousands which it 
controls. Its workshops cover an area of more than five hundred acres. 
It employs a vast army of men, many of whom are mechanics and experts 
of the highest skill. It has two hundred and twenty-two foreign ticket- 
offices (and agents, independent of those at its own stations), established 




248 POPULAR KESOKTS, AND HOW TO KEACU THEM. 

in thirteen different States. Its chief officers have been civil engineers; 
and they employ in their service thoroughly practical men. 

It is from the proceeds of a business of such mammoth proportions 
that this Company are able to overcome difficulties along portions of their 
line, which it would be folly for a less wealthy corporation to undertake. 
A knowledge of these advantages induced the formation of a new organi- 
zation, known as the "Pennsylvania Company," having for its object the 
consolidation and harmonious management of all roads mider its control. 
This company, with a capital of f|12,000,000, was organized by the elec- 
tion of Thomas A. Scott, Esq., as president. In 1873 it had nearly five 
thousand miles of railroad under its control. 

COXSTKUCTION. 

Ordinarily companies are satisfied if their roads are graded with sand 
or gravel. The Pennsylvania uses, in addition, eighteen inches of broken 
stone, in which the ties are embedded. This insures a dry, elastic, per- 
manent bed, free from dust, allowing the car doors and windows to be 
kept open in summer. Steel rails of maximum weight are used, con- 
nected at the ends by plates, bolted to the sides, but so arranged that 
expansion or contraction will not cramp the rail. The joints are made 
between ties; thus insuring an agreeable elasticity, which rails secured in 
a "chair," on the ties, never have. 

The Pennsylvania Railroad Company, in the construction of its road, 
employs the highest grade of engineering talent, and the best skilled 
labor: hence, although its course along the streams and through the 
mountains follows a tortuous route, a rate of speed can be maintained 
with impunity which would be actually dangerous on most roads in the 
country. Although the original cost of construction is mvich greater, the 
Pennsylvania Company finds it more satisfactory, and believes it to be 
cheaper in the end. The "stone ballast" allows the water from the 
heavy rains of autumn to percolate through it, leaving a dry bed for win- 
ter, and therefore free from the annoying frost upheavals, and consequent 
displacement of rails, as well as from the dust of summer, to which clay 
and gravel ballasted roads are subjected. "Jumping the track " is never 
known on the Pennsylvania Road. This is believed to be due to the 
thorough construction of its bed. 

The accommodations provided for summer tourists on the line of the 
Pennsylvania Railroad are unsurpassed. Good hotels in all the towns 
reached by it are the rule, not the exception ; and many of them are 
elegant in all their appointments. It would be difficult to select any 
highway of travel anywhere that can compare, in the essentials of com- 
fort, safety, expedition, and interest, with the magnificent system of 
railroads managed by this Company. 



250 POPULAB KESOBTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

The day express from Pittsburg to New York is a wonderful result of 
engineering skill. 

This magnificent run of four hundred and forty-four miles is made with 
but three stoppages, — • the first, of only five minutes, at Altoona, after a 
stretch of one hundred and seventeen miles ; the second, of twenty 
minutes for dinner, at Harrisburg, after an unbroken dash of one hun- 
dred and thirty-two miles ; and the third and last, of only five minutes, at 
Philadeljjhia, after a run of one hundred and five miles, leaving a single 
stretch of ninety miles across New Jersey to destination. No time being 
lost in stopping, the wonderful locomotive-engines work away with the 
regularity of fixed machinery, — taking their supply of water from the track- 
tanks as they (]o, and carrying their fuel with them; and the time is made by 
uniformity of progress more than by an increased rate of speed. The 
train is made up of Pullman parlor cars and the best of the Company's 
day coaches, all splendidly upholstered, mounted on combination springs, 
and furnished with plate-glass windows, through which the landscape 
can be distinctly seen. 

But it is, perhaps, more natural to take the tourist, in imagination, 
from the eastern to the western termini. A description of the route 
from Washington and Baltimore will be found elsewhere, in an article 
on the Northern Central Railroad. That train joins us. 

The tourist will early remark the tasteful yet substantial character of 
the stations on the Pennsylvania Railroad. These are usually built of 
stone ; and for artistic effect several kinds are frequently used. 

The thorough construction of the road-bed will also be noticed ; the 
" stone ballast " and other features tending to give strength and durability 
to the structure. But the first peculiar sensation will be experienced as 
the train, with unabated speed, dashes around a curve in the road; and 
the oscillating movement of the car instinctively causes you to attempt 
to overcome it. But confidence soon assumes her sway; and what was at 
first a cause of fear becomes a source of pleasure. Chester Valley fur- 
nishes the first grand view of landscape scenery. The cars pass along an 
elevated ridge on the outer rim of this magnificent amphitheatre, afford- 
ing a landscape of peculiar grandeur and loveliness. From Philadelphia 
to Lancaster the road leads through an undulating country, interspersed 
with fine cultivated farms, fields, and forests, while thriving villages and 
flourishing manufactories enliven the scene. 

The Columbia Branch, which intersects the Pennsylvania Railroad 
at Lancaster, connects at Columbia with the York Branch, and at York 
with the Northern Central Railroad, affording the most direct route from 
Philadelphia to Gettysburg, a very popular resort. 

A few minutes spent at Lancaster for refreshments, and the train is 
hurrying on to the banks of the Susquehanna, which we strike a short 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



251 



distance below Harrisburg ; and until we reach that place the river is 
constantly in view. On the opposite banks the trains on the Northern 
Central Railroad, with passengers from Baltimore and Washington, can 
be seen. 

A few miles above Harrisburg, the Pennsylvania Railroad crosses the 
Susquehanna over a bridge 3,845 feet long, affording an imposing view 
of the river and surrounding scenery. At this point the mountain barrier 
has been forced asunder by some mighty convulsion ; and the grand old 
stream, having united its forces above, moves calmly on to the sea. This 
mountain gorge is the gate which opens to fields beyond of untold wealth 
and beauty. From this point, by the Northern Central and Philadelphia 
and Erie Railroads, on the east bank of the river, we can continue a 
hundred miles along this beautiful stream, with scenes ever changing 
ever new, and yet so beautiful that every turn presents a charming 
picture. Here bold, precipitous mountains, with overhanging rocks, 
crowd down to the river's bank, around which we quickly glide : again 
the hills recede to the blue distance, giving place to rich, cultivated fields 
and cosey farm-houses. But our course leads up the icest bank of the Sus- 
quehanna, the most magnificent river in Pennsylvania, to the mouth of 




THE BEAUTIFUL JUNIATA. 



Turning up this lovely stream, whose praises have been sung by the 
poet's muse, we flash along its banks, around the hills, and through the 
valleys, catching, as we go, glimpses of picturesque villages, quiet vistas, 
and charming landscapes, stopping at last at Altoona. 



252 



POPULAR RESOETS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



" Altoona is situated at the head of Logan Valley, immediately at the 
base of the main Alleghany Mountains, and is the location of the principal 
construction and repait shops of the Pennsylvania Railroad Company. 
This Company has, in fact, created the town ; and the business it concen- 
trates here not only sustains it, but stimulates it into prosperity and rapid 
growth. The shops of the Company are among the most extensive and 
complete on the continent, and in themselves are objects of more than 
ordinary interest, illustrating, as they do, the perfection of American 
railroad management." 




LOGAN HOUSE, ALTOONA, PENN. 
Pennsylvania Railroad. 

Southward from Altoona runs a system of branch railroads, penetrat- 
ing the extensive iron deposits and rich agricultural valleys existing in 
Blair County. The manufacture of iron is extensively carried on all 
through this region, some of the establishments being large and complete. 
The limestone valleys are highly improved, and among the most pro- 
ductive in Pennsylvania. Wedged in between the eastern spurs of the 
Alleghanies, they are surrounded by picturesque scenery, and enjoy an 
atmosphere of more than ordinary purity. The streams flowing through 
them are fed by moinitaiu springs, and are deliciously cool and clear, 
affording favorite homes for trout ; and the angler finds the locality one 
of his paradises. 



POPULAR KICSORTS, AND HOW TO UKACIl TIIIOM. 



253 



At Altoona, our sharpoiitMl ;ii)]u'tito ii])])oaso(l at tlni Logan House 
one of the many excclU-nt hotels Imilt hy tlic Coiiipaiiy for tlic acconi- 
modation of travellers, and re-enforced by an additional locomotive, with 
undiniinished speed we dash up a grad(! of ninety-five feet to tiic; mile. 
Bold ])recipices and deej) chasms threaten our further course ; yet up, up the 
mountain-side we climb, — this load of livintj freight, along a route which 
the frightened deer would have shunned a half century ago. But now 
our course is surely barred : high precipices tower above our heads; aiul 
the roar of a wild torrent can be heard through the mists of tlu^ deepen- 
ing valh^y below. As we enter a gorge, the mountain flings itself in our 
path; but, turning to the left, on we fly. We pass tlu; famous " Horse- 
shoe Bend," and the race is won. By engineering skill, that charm of 
science, this seemingly impassable gulf is safely passed. The train soon 
enters a tunnel of 3,872 fec^t, and emerges on the western incc. of the 
mountains. We stop a't " Cresson " the pojmlar siiinnier resort, near 
the summit of the Alleghanies, and leave the visitors to this delightful 
"retreat." 




MOUNTAIN HOUSE, CRESSON, PLNN. 
Pennsylvania Railroad. 

'• Cresson — situated almost on the summit of the Alleghany Moun- 
tains, where they are crossed by the Pennsylvania Railroad, at an alti- 
tude of two thousand feet above the level of the sea — is a very popular 
resort during the hot months of summer. 



254 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

The accommodations provided are of the best kind; the surround- 
ings are attractive; the atmosphere is deliciously cool and pure." 
The primeval forests, with which the place is surrounded, are permeated 
by a labyrinth of paths, cosey nooks, and rustic seats. Berries of the most 
luxuriant growth abound ; " and, in brief, it would be difficult to find a 
more delightful retreat from the stifling heat of cities in midsummer, 
than is here provided by nature and art combined. Several springs of 
medicinal waters flow from the mountain in the vicinity; and pleasant 
drives lead away through the almost unbroken forests, where the laurel 
spreads its wreath of blossoms in spring, and resinous hemlocks and pines 
give forth their aroma, and sigh their ceaseless music. The old Portage 
Road, with its ten inclined planes — once an American wonder, but now 
abandoned — crossed the mountain very near to Cresson, and in its ruins 
possesses great interest for all who note the advance of improvement. 
A short distance from the place, and accessible by stages, is Loretto, a 
centre of Catholic faith and education, founded by Father Gallitzen, a 
prince of the noble house of that name in Russia, who retired into this 
wilderness, and devoted his fortune and his life to the cause of religion." 

On resuming our westward course with rapid speed, the downward 
grade is passed : yet the Westinghouse Air Brake controls the train, giv- 
ing security to its movements, and ease and confidence to the tourist. 
The scenery from the Alleghanies to Pittsburg, though fine, does not 
compare with the remarkable combination of the beautiful, thegr and, 
and the sublime to be found east of the mountains. 

Pittsburg is located at the junction of the Monongahela and Alleghany 
Rivers, the head waters of the Ohio. It commands an immense inland 
navigation, and possesses remarkable geographical advantages. It is 
situated in the heart of the bituminous coal formation ; and the location 
of extensive beds of iron ore is equally favorable. Pittsburg is also an 
important railway centre, besides being one of the most thriving manu- 
factui'ing cities in the Union. The scenery here is bold and striking. 

The Branch Roads of this Company reach some of the most delight- 
ful summer resorts in the United States, and carry the traveller through 
scenery as beautiful as can be found on the continent. At Harrisburg 
connection is made with the Cumberland Valley Railroad, which passes 
through the lovely Cumberland and into the great Shenandoah Valley 
of Virginia. At Huntingdon trains are in waiting to convey visitors to 
the famed Bedford Springs ; and at Tyrone connection is made with the 
Bald Eagle Valley and Clearfield Roads, which run through regions un- 
surpassed in picturesqueness. Indeed, as before stated, to give any thing 
like a connected sketch of the scenery reached by the Pennsylvania Rail- 
road and its branches, would require a book of itself. 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



255 



ILLUSTRATED PLEASURE ROUTE No. 22. 

From Washington and the South, through Baltimore, Har- 
risburg, Williamsport, and Elmira, to Watkins Glen and 
Niagara Palls. 




WASHINGTON, D.C., FROM ARLINGTON HEIGHTS. 

A Bird's-eye view of the metropolis of the nation, from a spot as- 
sociated with so many historic memories, can scarcely fail to interest the 
tourist. Beneath the central dome of the picture are supposed to con- 
gregate the assembled wisdom of the nation, drawn to Washington to 
deliberate upon the important questions of the day. Here, too, assemble 
the beauty and gayety of the country, whose encouraging presence gives 
zest to the debate, and whose cheering hospitality gives relief from the 
labors of the hour. 

The Capitol stands on an eminence ninety feet above tide-water. 
The site was selected by George Washington ; and the corner-stone 
was laid by him Sejit. 18, 1793. It was first occupied by Congress on 
the third Monday of November, 1800. On the 24th of August, 1814, 
the interior was destroyed by fire by British troops. In 1850 Congress 
voted an extension, the corner-stone of which was laid by President Fill- 
more, July 4, 1851. The statue of America, which surmounts the 
present dome, is two hundred and ninety-six feet and six inches above 
the ground. The plan of the city embodies two sets of streets, one set 
running with the four cardinal jwmts, across which the avenues run diago- 
nally. 



256 



POPULAR KKSOKTS, AND HOW TO BEACH THEM, 



The stranger should also visit the Executive Mansion ; State, Treasury, 
War, Niivy, Post-0 ffice, and Interior Departments ; Patent Office ; Smith- 
sonian Institute, &c. 

In times past a visit to AVashington from remote sections of the coun- 
try was an event of no ordinary character. Weeks were consumed in 
performing what a few hours will now accomplish. Perhaps the most 
important improvement of recent date is the completion of the Balti- 
more and Potomac Railway, by the Northern Central, and its 
great ally the Pennsylvania Railroad, from Baltimore through 
Washington to Quantico, V^a., a point of junction with the "Richmond, 
Fredericksburg, and Potomac " Railroad, securing an unbroken railway 
connection with the South Atlantic and Gulf States, the North, and the 
Great West. 

This line connects 
with the Northern Cen- 
tral, by tunnel through 
Baltimore, at the north- 
ern limit of the city. 
Here also connection is 
made with the Union 
Railroad, designed as a 
connecting link with the 
Philadelphia, Wilming- 
ton, and Baltimore Rail- 
road, and through it with 
the railroad system of 
the Middle and New- 
England States, by which 
trains now pass tlu-ough 
Baltimore without the 
aid of horses. 



ENTRANCE TO BALTIMORE TUNNEL. 

The Northern Central Railroad, which commences at Baltimore, 
and runs almost due north through INIaryland and Pennsylvania, penetrat- 
ing into the State of New York as far as Canandaigua, offers to the tourist 
and traveller a variety of beautiful scenery unsurpassed on the American 
Continent. 

The Excursion. 

Leaving Baltimore at 7.30 in the morning, provided with elegant 
coaches, Westinghouse air-brakes, and all the modern appliances which 




•OIMM.AK UKSOinS, .\NI> ItOW TO IIKACII IIIKM. 



257 



FROM THE TIDE WATERS OF THE SOUTH 






add to tli(^ (•(iiiiiorL or siit'cty of the jiiissi'iij^cr, wn inov(> tliroiij,'h the 
northern .suhurbH of the t-ity, iuid |iii,ss aloiii; ".loiics Falls," a small 
stream, sue mindly 
insifi^nittcant asitcn'(']ts 
hizily over its ro (^ky 
bed, hut wliicli has 
caused tlie city fathers 
of Haltiniore much 
anxiety as to " what 
tiiey will do with it." 
Seven miles fi'oni IJal- 
tiinore we bn-ak sud- 
denly upon " li a k e 
IJoland," a small but 
beautiful sheet of 
water, the source from 
whicii a populous city 
draws its supply. For 
twenty miles wi' pass 
tlirou;;li a rich 1 i m e- 
stone valley, where tiie 
abunthmt crops yive ''"^i 

token of till' richness s...- • - «-,...•• :".v-r:' ■>-e*«r- 

of the soil. The roiul TO 'THE PICTURESQUE REGIONS OF THE NORTH, 
follows th<! tortuous course of the stream, affordinL,^ at every turn new 
and ])leasiu,n' views, 'riiirty-five miles from Baltimore we cross the 
Maryland line, and enter Pennsylvania. I'assiiiff through a ricrh agricul- 
tural district, tilled with substantial fiirm-houses and siujill villaj,'e« 
we arrive at Hanover .function. At tJiis point. (Minnecl, ion is made with 
tJie railroad to (iettysbiiru^, thirty miles distant, when! that nieniorabh^ 
l)attli^ was fouffht that ()y)tained for it the name of the " Waterloo of 
.\meri(;a," and which will nnike it a i)la(;e of interest for all tinier 

Soon after hfaviiiLi^ llan<)v<'r ilunction tin; sj»ires of tin; boroui^h of 
^drk are sicii in tiie distanc(\ We are whirled ra])idly alon.t?, now iind 
an'ain cat.cliinj,^ frlimp.ses of the. subsl.antially built i)ortion of the town. 
York is a thriviiif^ borouffh of .some; twtdve thousand inhabitants, the 
(toiuity-s-at of York County, and the centn-. of a rich farmiujif district. 

Durint,^ the invasion of Pennsylvania in Juiu;, }HV>',\, it was laid un- 
der coid,ribution by (Jen. Karly. Twelve bridtfes on the line of the 
Northern Oentral Road wen; burned at the same time, and nituitcsen on 
the " VYrightsvillo IJranch," which extends from York to Wrights ville, 
and thence by the "Columbia HraiKrh " to Lancaster, where connection is 
made with the Pennsylvania Kailroad. 




258 



POPULAK IJESORTS, AND HOW TO KEACII THEM. 



After a stop at York of five minutes we are away again ; and ere long 
we reach the banks of the beautiful Susquehanna. On we speed, the 
noble river on our right flowing calmly onward to the sea. We are now 
approaching Harrisburg, the capital of Pennsylvania. The river, as we 
glide along its banks, with its attractive scenery, its islands and rocks, 
with the town beyond, affords a view of unusual beauty. 

THE SUSQUEHANNA. 




The nu- 
merous is- 
lands and ^-^.i 
h uge mass- 
's of rock with which the broad boMnu 
of the river is studded lend the ch.inii 
of variety to the scenery. Now and 
again long bridges span the noble 
stream ; villages are seen on the opposite shore ; and for 
fifty miles we have a changing panorama of livei 
scenery. 

Harrisburg is reached by the Northern Central, over a bridge a mile 
in length ; the trains running on the top. Nothing obstructs the pros- 
l^ect up or down the river ; and the slow rats of speed allows a good five 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND UOW TO XIEACII THEM. 



259 



minutes' view of rare loveliness from a car window. Harrisburg is the point 
of connection with the '-Pennsylvania," the "Cumberland Valley," and 
the "Philadelphia and Reading" Ptailroads. Here a magnificent Pullman 
Parlor Car is added to our train, and a coach from Philadelphia. These 
are run daily between Philadelphia, and Watkins and Rochester, N.Y. 



ry.^lfi 





HARRISBURG, PA. 
Northern Central Railroad. 

The city of Harrisburg is pleasantly located, over- 
looking the Susquehanna, which is here spanned 
by two fine bridges a mile in length, connecting 
Harrisburg with Bridgeport, from which point the 
above view was sketched. 

Having made connection with the train from 
Philadelphia, we again continue our course up the 
banks of the Susquehanna. The scenery is one un- 
broken panorama of loveliness, — a combination of 
views, either of which would make the reputation of any popular resort. 
Approaching Sunhury, the conductor calls out, " Passengers for Shamo- 
kin, Mt. Carmel, &c., change cars." This is the terminus of the main 



.^^^ 



260 



POPULAK RESOKTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



line of the Northern Central Railway, one hundred and thirty-eight 
miles from Baltimore ; and here connection is made with the " Philadel- 
phia and the Erie" Railroad, extending in a northwesterly direction 
through Pennsylvania to Erie, a distance of two hundred and eighty- 
eight miles. This road, forty miles of which unite the main line of the 
Northern Central with its leased roads north of Williamsport, is leased 
and operated by the Pennsylvania Railroad. From Sunbury we pass 
up the valley of the West Branch of the Susquehanna to W^illiams- 
port. A sumptuous dinner awaits us at the " Herdic House," which is 
one of the best hotels in Pennsylvania. Fifty-two miles above we reach 
Renova Springs, a resort of great beauty and growing popularity. 




RENOVA HOUSE. 

At Williamsport the " Northern Central " road leaves the Susquehanna, 
continuing northward up Lycomin(j Creek, which it crosses nineteen times 
in twenty-six miles. High hills broken into a thousand forms hem it in, 
many rising into mountain-peaks which cut sharply against the sky. 
Waterfalls spring from their rugged sides, and are lost in the tangled 
growth below. The valley is narrow, in places a mere canon, yet rich in 
the washings of ages. Ralston is the first place of note on this division. 
'The cool and invigorating atmosphere, the grand scenery, excellent 
trout-fishing, and good fare have already secured for this locality an 
unusually large number of guests during the summer months. 



POrur.AK KKSOKIS, AND HOW TO UKACII THKM. 



261 



This is a good illustration of tiie scenery in the vicinity. This stream 
is famous for the number, variety, and beauty of its waterfalls. The 
whole region pos- 
sesses great attrac- 
tions for the artist 
and lover of nature. 
It is also noted for the 
number of its trout 
brooks and abundance 
of fish, affording an 
excellent opportunity 
for the follower of 
Izaak Walton to be- 
guile the lonely hours 
far away from the 
haunts of men ; also an 
abundance of deer and 
other game in their 
season. Is it strange, 
then, that this pic- 
turesque region is 
rapidly growing in 
favor with tourists 
and pleasure-seekers ? 

Four miles above 
Ralston we reach 
Roaring Creek, a name 
significant of the wild 
scenery of the neigh- 
borhood. A good ho- 
tel furnishes accom- 
modations for visitors. 
.\ more productive 
soil covers the hills : many are cultivated far up their slopes. Occa- 
.sionally wild torrents are seen hurrying down the mountain sides, at 
places forming beautiful cascades. We are nearing the summit: the 
country opens; and broader fields meet the eye. The water with the de- 
scending grade now turns northward : and the train flies rapidly on. 
The village of Canlon is next reached. We have now fairly left the 
mountains : broad cultivated fields stretch far up the neighboring hills, 
which with gentle undulations surround the town^ A picturesque stream 
finds its way through the valley opening to the east. 

Minnequa Springs, a popular summer resort, is only two miles beyond. 




DUTCHMAN'S RUN, RALSTON, PA. 



262 rOI'ULAK KKSOKTS, AM> HOW TO UKACH THEM. 

Minnecjiia is chiofly noted for the medicinal character of its waters. 
Alba, the next station, is a quiet hamlet nestled among the hills. From 
this place to Troi/ the scenery possesses little to interest the traveller ; 
but Troji is a delightful village, handsomely located, and contains many 
beautiful private residences and several churches. Siu/ar Creek flows 
through the village, which adds to the picturesque beauty of the place. 

From Troy to Elniira the railroad runs througli an agricultural country 
with valleys flanked by high hills. These become less abrupt as thev 
meet those bounding the valley of the Chemung, which, crossing at right 
angles, extends nearly fifty miles east and west, between the Smtquelianna 
liinr and Paiutol Post : Elmira being about midway, the largest and most 
thrifty city in Southern New York. It has a population of twenty thou- 
sand. The city is built on an extended plain, boundeil by chains of lofty 
hills, some of which admit of cultivation to their very sunuuits, while 
others are crowned by heavy woodland. The streets are broad, crossing each 
other at right angles, and are lined with shade-trees. The C/iemunf/ Ricer 
flows through the midst of the city, and is spanned by three iron bridges, 
one of which is completed. Elmira, the seat of several very prosperous 
manufacturing interests, is also surrounded by a rich agricultural re- 
gion, and is the great railway centre of Southern New York. The 
" Erie " nmning east aiul west, and the " Lehigh A'allev " and " Northei-n 
Central '* from the south, unite hei-e, and continue north and westward, 
connecting with the ''Great AVestei'u," The •• Utica, Ithaca, and Elmira" 
Railway will also have its terminus here. ^Nlany features of mechanical 
industry will interest the tourist. The Elmira Rolling ^lills are the 
most important in the State, and turn out daily large quantities of rail- 
road rails and merchantable iron. The La France Rotary Pump and 
Steam Engine Manufactory is attracting great attention among practical 
men, and will repay an examination from those interested. The Pull- 
man Car. which contributes to the comfort and enjoyment of so many, 
is built here ; also the Erie Car Shops, and many w holesale boot and shoe 
manufactories, all testifying to the growing importance of this manu- 
facturing centre. 

Ehuira is also an immense coal-distributing point, for both anthracite 
and bituminous from the " Lehigh Valley " and the " Nortliern Central " 
Railroads. The Pittston and Elmira Coal Company, and Langdon & 
Co., w ith principal oflices in this city, handle over half a million tons of 
anthracite amuially; while the iNIacIntyre Coal Company mine and ship 
through this city three Innulred thousand tons annually of bituminous 
coal from Ralston, Penn., tifty miles south. 

Elmira's educational institutions ai-e celebrated. The Female Col- 
lege has a national reputation : and its buildings and grounds are an 
onutment to the city. 



I'orui.AU itKsoins, and now lo kkacii iiikm. 



2(\ii 



Wo arc rapidly ai)])roiic!liinjif a section oi' coimlry noted for its (hn^p 
gorges, or <;iens, enl, far down the solid roeii hy tin! aetiou ol" rinininp^ 



streams 



'I'lu'se form a lireat variety 



water views, of which the accom- 
pany iiiji^ cut of Empire 
Filll, (ilfu J'Jxrclsidr, is a 
(ine illustration. These 
falls ar<^ on tln^ east sidi^ 
of I, he \aliey, neai' the 
head of Seiie(ta, LaUe, not 
in siL;id- from the road, 
hut are visited fromWat- 
Uins in a small steamer 
whi(!li |)lies on tlu^ lake* 
for the. accommodation 
ol' exciii'sioii parties. 

/'jiit/tirc /''all consists ot" 
a, series of cascades, fall- 
inn' l(l(> feet to the valley 
helow. f/diHliKl is tho 
most im|)ortant villa^^w 
[lassed Ixstween I'llmira 
and Watkins, and is hut 
four miles from the la,tt(T 
pla(!e. It is acpiiet, pleas- 
ant villa^fc, !Uid is re- 
markahh^ for its fflcns, 
waterfalls, and cascades. 
'I'he falls leap from a 
ureat hoifi^ht almost into 
the streets of tin; villa.ifc. 
Tiierc is also a mineral 
spi'in;,'' at Havana. Tlie 
intricacies of its j,den» 
(contain many intcrest- 
inf( featur(!H ; and, when- 
ce ver th(i liotels arc im- 
j)rov(Ml, this must hecomo 
a' place of f^reat resort. 
We are moving directly north. Tlie narrow valley from which w(! have de- 
bouched has opened to a mih; in width, and is so level that one can but think 
that the lake, near at haiul, at huuw time covered it. Th(i ground rises on 
either sid(^ precipitously, beyond which evidently lies a tabhvland drairmd 
by stnsams, which, finding tludr way to the, brink. 




EMPIRE FALL -GLEN LX( 




Engraved expressly for " Jiachelder's Popular Resorts, and How to Iteach Them.' 
RAINBOW FALLS, WATKINS GLEN, NY. 



I'OnULAR KKSOUTS, AND HOW TO RKACH THEM. 



2fi5 



Rainbow Falls is, perhaps, one of the most interesting features of 
the Glen. With the bright sheen of a summer's day playing in the 
rising mists, the scene is frequently clothed in rainbow tints, but 
nowhere with such brilliant hues or perfect arch as at Rainbow Falls ; and 
the hour of four on every afternoon finds a crowd of guests worshipping 
at its shrine far in the depths of Watkins Glen. 

Above the house, the Glen extends for miles, embodying many remark- 
able features. The " Cathedral " is the most imposing. This is an im- 
mense amj^hitheatre, with walls of solid rock rising to the perpendicular 
height of three hundred feet, while the forest trees with which the top is 
fringed stretch their 

arms far over the yawn- ^ - j-.^ ^- 

ing gulf. Into this "" " °^ ' 

mighty ch a s ]u the 
waters spring with a 
frightful leap, bathing- 
its sides with featheiy 
spray, then quietly 
spreading over tlie 
rocky floor. The at- 
mosphere, even in the 
hottest day, is cool and 
moist. Trees of prime- 
val growth, hardy 
shrubs, and luxuriant 
vines cling with wild 
forms of beauty from the 
interstices of the rock, 
reflecting their rich 
foliage in the emerald 
pools beneath, while far 
above is seen the bright 
blue sky ; and at times 
the ricli sunlight, reflect- 
ing from cliff to cliff, 
clothes all with a soft, 
mellow glow. 

The interest in this region is by no means exhausted with a visit to 
Watkins Glen. Hacana Glen, already alluded to, is reached by coaches 
from the Glen Mountain House. It possesses many curious and interest- 
ing features, and will well repay a visit. Hector Falls is also a point of 
interest, and should be included in the visit to Empire Falls. 

These are situated on the east side of Seneca Lake, but a few miles 




HECTOR FALLS, SENECA LAKE, N.Y. 




liny aved expressly jor Hachetcli-r'n " Poimlar ResorU. ami lloio to Reach Them: 

GLEN MOUNTAIN HOUSE, 
Watkins Glen, N.Y. 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



267 



distant, and are reached by a small steamer. Neither should the 
sojourner at Watkins Glen miss a sail on Seneca Lake, one of the most 
beautiful bodies of water in the world, varying from one-half to six 
miles in width, and forty miles long. It is of remarkable depth and 
purity, and in the coldest weather never freezes over. 




SENECA LAKE, N.Y. 

From Watkins, trains on 
the "Northern Central" 
continue along the western 
shore of Seneca Lake forty- 
seven miles to Canandaigua, 
N.Y., where connection is 
made with the New- York 
Central Railroad for Al- 
bany or Niagara Falls. 
The route is pleasant, and 
possesses many points of 
interest, especially along the shore of the lake, where several waterfalls 
will be pointed out by the intelligent conductors, if requested. By 
an admirable arrangement, the cars run through from Baltimore to 
Rochester. From Rochester to Niagara Falls the country is level, and 
has few attractions for the traveller. Soon we hear the "roar of 
Niagara ; " and, if our journey is uninterrupted, in sixteen hours after 
leaving Baltimore, we may be domiciled at some of the mammoth hotels 
for which the place is celebrated. 



268 POPTTLAB RESOBTS, AND HOW TO BEACH THEM. 



THE SOUTHERN STATES. 

The proper and just representation of the pleasure rotates and resorts 
of the " Great South," in this volume, is attended -with no little diffi- 
culty, from the fact that heretofore comparatively little has been done by 
the ' ' powers that be " to develop by illustrated descriptions the scenic 
merits of that section of the country ; hence it is that many a Southern 
tourist who leaves his native State to study the beauties of popular North- 
ern resorts, discovers with chagrin that the place he has come hundreds 
of miles to see possesses no more natural interest than another in his own 
neighborhood, whose attractions no one had fully observed or thought 
to develop. This fact is also applicable to many other sections of the 
courxtry. The most wonderful as well as beautiful features often remain 
a long time unnoticed. This will be perfectly illustrated by tiie follow- 
ing incident of the author's experience. In the autuimi of 1873, while 
making a sketch of Hooksett Falls, N.H. (see index), a farmer, engaged 
near by, left liis work to watch tJie progress of the drawmg ; and as 
line after line developed the scene, — the river, the falls, the mill, and 
passing train, — he became exceedingly interested ; and, when finally a 
few bold dashes of the brush clothed it with effect, he exclaimed excit- 
edly, " By ' gosh ! ' if that ain't a picter! I was born here, and have 
lived here all my days, and have looked up at that river a thousand 
times, but never knew it was a picter before." And so it chances that 
many of tlie most delightful localities are yet hidden from the admiring 
gaze of pleasure-seekei's, because those most interested in their develop- 
ment have not yet discovered a " picter " in them.* 

VIRGINIA. 

Beyond the fact, that there is " a great Natural Bridge," and "the 
"Wliite Sulphur Springs," and that " Virginia is (or was) the Mother 
of Presidents," the world knows little of the inviting features and 
boundless charms of that great and justly famed State. Indeed, here- 
tofore the people of Virginia, from their familiarity with the scenery, 
realized but little of the innumerable treasures of romantic beauty and 
pictures of sublime grandeur their State in fact contains. But one of 
the results of the late war has been, to change very much of all this 

* When the author commenced to write and re-arrange the present volume, it was 
with bright anticipations and hopes tliat the Southern States would be weU and fully illus- 
trated, as he had assistance promised from the officials of ten different Southern rail- 
roads. But, alas for human expectations ! nine of them, for just and good reasons 
undoubtedly, "went back on him;" but fortunately one (the Chesapeake and Ohio) 
remained, enough to prove his assertion that the pleasure resorts and pleasure routes 
of the South only need development to compare favorably with any in the land. 



POPULAB BESOKTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THKM. 



269 



ignorance and indifference. Virginia is fast rising, as a star of the first 
magnitude, in the horizon of " summer resorts." Few States, in fact, 
equal her in the diversity, surprising character, and interest she affords 
to the lovers of the marvellous and the picturesque ; and fewer still can 
excel her claims in this respect. 




UNIVERSITY OF VIRGINIA. 



Sharp eyes watched the wonderful resources developed by the South 
in the emergencies of the late struggle. The realities of their lines of 
communication, and their undeveloped possibilities, were then seen and 
pondered. The result is, that abundant capital has made Virginia a new 
battle-,ground since peace came among us ; and the struggle for victory 
is now upon the fields of keen competition for the carrying trade of our 
mighty granaries in the West, and even of the Orient. Necessarily, the 
attractions to be found along the routes, and contiguous to them, now 
springing into a more vigorous life, become a part of the incentives to 
travel, — the sources of business and profit. Hence, among othernew 
things, the old neglected deHghts of mountain and forest, river and glen, 
are becoming fresh to the knowledge of our people. And this, as yet, is 
but an entering wedge to greater things for proud " Old Virginia." 



270 POPULAR PvESOKTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM. 

Richmond will be the starting point for the great body of visitors 
who may decide to " do " the natm-al wonders of Virginia. That historic 
city is a place of rare beauty of location and natural surroundings. It 
is really built — as was Boston — upon three hills : Union, Shockoe, and 
Gamble's Hills. Between Union and the other two hills there is a deep 
valley. James River runs between Richmond and Manchester, with a 
moaning wail that is never at rest. It is here that fouxteeu miles of 
" falls," as they are termed, are ended. In summer the river is some- 
times swollen to a great height, by vast volumes of water pom-ed into it 
from tributaries above dnring heavy rains or freshets. From Union and 
Shockoe Hills, comparatively little opportunity to view the better scenic 
effects can be had. But from the farther verge of Gamble's Hill, — and, 
better still, from some of the verdure-clad margins of the canal above 
the city, — views can be found that baffle all description. The waters of 
the river dashing and foaming over its rugged and rocky bed, the inter- 




EARTHWORKS ON THE CHICKAHOMINY (NEAR RICHMOND). 

spersed islands loaded with luxuriant vegetation, the winding canal, 
the great smoking Tredegar Works, the city in graceful outline and 
beauty upon the left, with the soft bland zephyrs peculiar to mornings 
and evenings in that climate, make up as sweet a scene and picture as 
eye could desire. Those who can obtain access to the top of the Capitol 
will find a grander ^'iew, but not a lovelier one, than that from Gamble's 
HiU. 

Richmond and vicinity is now stocked with wonderful things, such as 
only become famous by the tragedies of great wars. Visitors will wish 
to see the stupendous cordon of fortifications with which the city was 
encircled, the Capitol and the delightful grounds around it, and its 
statuary. They will stand amazed at the immense Tredegar Iron Works ; 
look at "the Armory " where formerly the " State Guard " were held in 
readiness against negro insurrections, and at the churches, and other 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 271 

public buildings ; but the chief and deep interest will be in Libby 
Prison, in Jefferson Davis's residence, and in all the novelties which are 
stamped with the terrible impress of the great war. The trip from 
New York City, by the Old Dominion Line of steamers, via Norfolk, by 
the James River, is a sinuous and interesting route, interspersed with 
pleasing views. From Washington the course is along the Potomac by 
boat, and cars through battle-scarred Fredericksburg. From the south 
the entrance is upon the great line passing through Petersburg, also 
the scene of terrible and bloody struggles. 

VIRGINIA SPRINGS. 

Elsewhere we give a synopsis of the most generally known, yet known 
too little, mineral springs of Virginia. Of the deservedly high claims 
many of these healing waters have upon public confidence and patronage, 
there is not the least question. The ' ' White Sulphur ' ' have had a long 
and wide fame ; and it is the place of fashionable favor in the State, 
and is not likely soon to lose its prestige. Of the other mineral springs 
the general public know little. When the great capitalists find time to 
cipher over the promise of profit in that region, or when the proprietors 
decide to develop them by illustrated descriptions, the million will come 
to know all about them, and take them into favor. As yet, however, 
many of these springs are not prepared to entertain sumptuously. Be- 
sides, several of them are to be reached, in the main, by stages over 
Virginia roads ; and, while those roads may promote healtli among the 
dyspeptic, they are not favorable to temper-al sweetness, as all people of 
experience thereon will declare. Still there is a sociability and good 
cheer in stage-coach riding never found in a railway car. 

Virginia also has her full share of mountains, rivers, falls, caves, and 
glens. The Natural Bridge in Rockbridge County has long been a source 
of wonder and admiration, yet has failed hitherto to command the 
attention from tourists that its grand and imjiressive character would 
seem to inspire. This is undoubtedly due largely to the want of proper 
and popular hotel accommodations. The Peals of Otter, Bedford County, 
having an altitude of 5,307 feet above tide, each year increase in popu- 
larity. The Hawk's Nest, Fayette County, with its precipitous face, fall- 
ing sheer down a thousand feet to the bed of the stream that flows at its 
base ; Weijer's Cave, Augusta County, with its wonderful sights ; the 
Natural Tunnel, Scott County, i^assing hundreds of feet through solid 
rock, with its high vaulted roof, stupendous precipices, and weird caverns; 
and thousands of other natural features, — ^jromise for Virginia a popular 
future with the sight-seeing public. Many of these have been brought 
to notice by the opening of the Chesapeake and Ohio Railroad. 



272 



POFUI.AK RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



PLEASURE ROUTE No. 23. 

Washington, Norfolk, and Richmond, to Staunton, the 
Mineral Springs of Virginia, Charleston, Huntington, 
Cincinnati, and the West. 

CHESAPEAKE AND OHIO RAILROAD. 

It should be remembered that Virginia is pierced by two ranges of 
mountains, the Alleghanies and the Blue Ridge, and between th^se lies 




COMMISSARY DEPARTMENT. 



a great valley, three hundred and sixty miles long. Such a region, so 
vast, could only be a great storehouse of Nature's curiosities. 



POPULAR KESOBTS, AND HOW TO BEACH THEM. 273 

Commercially studied in connection with the future of Virginia as a 
famous resort for travellers and summer tourists, it strikes the eye at 
once, that the leading artery of communication across the State will 
make some port on the Chesapeake its grand depot. In the waters of 
that magnificent bay, Virginia possesses the only complete harbor facili- 
ties on the entire South Atlantic seaboard. Heretofore, no determined 
purpose to seek commercial power can be said to have animated 




VIRGINIA SCHOOLHOUSE OF THE OLDEN TIME. 

Virginia councils. Jefferson discountenanced commerce, and favored 
agriculture. He sneered at great cities as "great sores." And 
Jefferson's authority was undisputed. Hence no great commercial port, 
or marine, ever grew there. But the Chesapeake and Ohio Rail- 
road has taken the field, with its headquarters at Richmond ; and a 
new life is rapidly dawning upon the State. This line will cut through 
the very heart of those attractions for summer money-spenders, which so 



274 POPULAR KESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

profusely abound in the mountainous regions of Virginia and West 
Virginia. Tourists from Washington can reach Richmond by rail, and 
from New York and the North by rail or the Old Domiiiion Line of 
steamers; or they can strike the line of the -Chesapeake and Ohio" 
over the Orange and Alexandria Railroad at Gordonsville, west of 
which lie most of the great natural resorts of Virginia. From Gordons- 
ville to Charlottesville (twenty-one miles), the cars of the Chesa- 
Ijeake and Ohio and the Orange and Alexandria Railroads, running 
upon a double track, follow the same route. From Charlottesville the 
Chesapeake and Ohio strikes due west thirty-nine miles to Staunton, 
the central point first to be reached by visitors to the principal resorts 
in this section of Virginia. 

THE PASSAGE 01-' THE BLUE RIDGE. 

This range stretches from north-east to south-west, across Virginia, cut- 
ting the line of the Chesapeake and Ohio Railroad, its crest generally 
twenty-five hundred feet above tide ; and it offers no " water gap " between 
the Potomac and the James. To the west lies the valley of Virginia, its 
streams on this line eight hundred feet above the affluents of the James 
which flow at its eastern base. It was a formidable obstacle to the rail- 
road. In 1849 the State of Virginia undertook to build the Blue Ridge 
Railroad from its eastern base at Medium's River to Waynesboro' in 
the valley, a distance of seventeen miles. The main feature was a 
tunnel 4,260 feet long at the summit of the grade. Avhich required seven 
years to complete, and which until recently was the largest finished 
tunnel in the country. The engineer was Claudius Crozet, a Frenchman 
of great intellect and attainments, and this work is a monument of his 
skill. The road cost about a hundred thousand dollars per mile, and is 
now a part of the Chesapeake and Ohio Railroad. 

Leaving Mechum's River, the road ascends along a spur of the main 
ridge, which it reaches in about five miles ; thence, encountering deep 
ravines and projecting spurs, it climbs along the steep mountain slope, 
making three lesser tunnels, and still ascending through another, 
reaches an elevation of fifteen hundred feet above tide at its western 
portal. The grade of the road is seventy feet per mile, less than this on 
the curves and greater on direct lines ; the tunnel is straight, and passes 
seven hundred and fifty feet below the crest, and is so well ventilated 
that one can often see entirely through it from the rear of passenger 
trains. As you approach the tunnel, winding up the mountain's side, the 
view is surpassingly grand. You look down upon cultivated fields eight 
hundred feet below, stretching away for twenty miles, dotted here and 
there with plantation-houses and villages, and bounded in the distance 



POPUI.AU UKSOUTS, AND HOW TO KKACH TIIKM 



275 



by rugged mountains, a panorama the eye never tires in gazing u[)on, 
and which is by common consent one of the grandest views on the line, 
and surpassed nowhere. The road descends from the tunnel for three 

miles to the 
western 
base, across 
the South 
Branch of 
the Shenan- 
doah, and 
crosses with 
undulating 
grades the 
Valley of 
Virginia to 
the North 
Mo u ntain, 
its western 
•f^ boundary. 
At Staun- 
ton, a hun- 
dred a n d 
t h i rty-s ix 
miles from 
Richmond, a 
connection is 
made with 
the Valley 
Raih'oad ex- 
tending to 
Harper's 
Ferry. 

This neigh- 
borhood is 
noted for the 
p i cturesque- 
ness of its 
TUNNEL. scenery, and 

ample hotel accommodations are furnished visitors at the Virginia House. 
Augusta or Stribling Springs are only twelve miles away by a 
romantic road reached by stage. This is also the point from which to 
visit "Weyer's Cave, seventeen miles distant, one of Virginia's greatest 
curiosities. This cave is among the fantastic eccentricities of nature, 




276 



POPXTLAB RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



and as such stands unrivalled. It is one of the discovered •wonders of 
our country, and affords a prolific field for thought and conjecture. Pos- 
sibly, in the time whereof no man knoweth, this, and like subterranean 
glories, may have been palaces for nymphs and their families. Indeed, 
as one looks over the torch-lit scene, and sees a million eyes glittering 
and flashing seemingly upon him, it is easy to fancy the wondering 
spirits of the place still there and marvelling at the strange intrusion. 




ROCKBRIDGE ALUM SPRINGS, VA. 

The Passage of North Mountain was less costly than that of the 
Blue Ridge : it is crossed without a tunnel. At the summit the grade 
reaches an elevation of 2,07i feet above tide ; there are pleasant land- 
scape views, some of great beauty, some very rugged ; and on the right 
towers Elliot's Knob, 4,450 feet above the level of the sea, probably the 
highest point in the State. At Goshen, thirty-two miles west of Staun- 
ton, and one hundred sixty-eight from Richmond, the road, after running 
nearly parallel to the Xorth Mountain for many miles, turns abruptly 
westward, and passes through Panther Gap in the Mill Mountain, known 
farther north as the Shenandoah. The scenery here is wild and interest- 
ing. At Goshen passengers leave the railroad for Lexington, twenty miles 
distant, and Natural Bridge, thirty-five miles ; and also for Rock- 
bridge Alum Springs, nine miles distant; Rockbridge Baths, nine 



POPULAR BESORTS, AND HOW TO BEACH THEM. 



277 



miles. These resorts are all reached by stage over picturesque roads, 
and each worthy a visit from the tourist, and a fuller description. Seven 
miles west of Goshen, and one hundred and seventy-five from Richmond, 
is Millboro'. Here passengers for the Bath Alum Springs, ten miles ; 
Warm, fifteen miles ; Hot, eighteen miles ; and Healing Springs, 
fifteen miles, — may take coaches ; although the two latter places may be 
more easily 
reached from 
C o V iiKj t oil, 
tliirty miles 
farther west. 
Leaving Mill- 
boro', at an 
elevation 
1,6 8 feet 
above tide 
water, the 
road encoun- 
ters very 
heavy work. 
Within a few 
hundred feet 
of the station 
it passes 
through a 
tunnel 1,300 
feet long, and 
with a short 
interval 
through a 
second ; then 
ci'osses a great 
ravine by an 
emban k ment 

one hundred and sixty feet in depth ; then 
through cuts of eighty feet or more, and over 
another embankment about one hundred feet in 
depth all of i"ock ; and through a third tunnel, 
— all within three miles, one of the most costly 
sections of the line, and containing a series of 
magnificent views. It then descends a long and 

wild valley to the Cow Pasture River. Here at a sharp bend the river 
has been turned through a new channel, which cost sixty thousand 




GRIFFITH'S KNOB AND COW PASTURE 
RIVER. 



278 



POPULAR RESOKTS, ANIJ HOW TO REACH THEM. 



dollars, saving two bridges for the road, which cuts across another sharp 
bend by a tunnel, and immediately crosses the river. After some more 
heavy grading Jackson's River is reached at Clifton Forge. Jackson's 




FALLING SPRING FALLS. 

River with the Cow Pasture forms the James, a few miles below. It has 
here cut its way through the mountains forming, one of the wildest of 
gorges, always admired, and which is well worth a special visit. Indeed, 



POPULAK KKSOKTS, AND HOW TO REACH TIIKM. 279 

it is difficult for the reader, guided by imagination alone, to realize the 
scenic grandeur of this route. Continuing up Jackson's River, and cross- 
ing it twice, it reaches Covington at the base of the Alleghany, two hun- 
dred and five miles from Richmond. Passengers for the Healing 
Springs, fifteen miles; Hot, eighteen miles; and Warm Springs, 
— may here take coaches, and pass on the way the Palling Spring a 
lovely cascade. These stage-routes are through grand mountain scenery, 
with occasional views of Jackson River and in full view of the cascade 
of Falling Springs. 

The stream which forms this cascade rises in the ]V<irm Sjyrinf/s jMouu- 
tain. About three-fourths of a mile from its source (says Pollard), it falls 
over a rock two hundred feet into the valley below. The scene is broken 
and exceedingly picturesque. 

PASSAGK OF THK ALLKGHANY. 

Covington was the eastern terminus of the Covington and Ohio Rail- 
road, a work undertaken by the State as a connection between the East 
and the West. Its construction was suspended during the civil war; and 
in 1868 the amount expended on it (over three million dollars) was given 
to the Chesapeake and Ohio Railroad Company, on condition tliat the 
latter should complete it. It now forms an important part of the line. 
The passage of the Alleghany is a stupendous work, and always excites 
admiration. After crossing Jackson's River a third time, the road follows 
the valley of Dunlap's Creek for five miles, crossing the creek four times 
with bridges of a hundred and thirty feet opening, and makes two 
tunnels and several very heavy cuttings. It then ascends by a grade of 
sixty feet per mile a rugged mountain slope, with excavations and 
embankments following each other in rapid succession, unequalled, it is 
believed, in this or any other country. There are a great number of cuts 
of sixty feet in depth, many over a hundred, and the slopes of some reach 
even to a hundred and fifty feet above grade. Each of these interesting 
result of engineering skill adds new and fresh artistic features for the 
tourist's gratification. The embankments are equal in magnitude. That 
over "Moss Run "is a hundred and forty feet in depth; over Jerry's 
Run, a hundred and eighty-five feet. The lower slope stakes of the latter 
were over two hundred feet below grade. These streams cross the road 
by tunnels cut in the rocky sides of the ravines, tunnels ample in size to 
pass a railroad train. The embankment at Jerry's Run contains over 
a million cubic yards of material. It is on a gentle curve, which is pro- 
duced on either side for some distance, and views of it can be had from 
several points on the road : but even this huge mass is dwarfed by the 
mighty hills which surround it, so insignificant are the works of man 
when brought face to face with those of Nature. After crossing the 



280 



POPULAR KESOBTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



great embankment, the road follows a ravine, and in a short time enters 
Lewis Tunnel. This is about four thousand feet long, and is cut through 
hard rock, through a spur called the Little Alleghany, and, including its 
approaches, is seven thousand feet from grade to grade. It was worked 
from two shafts as well as from the ends, and is a continuous grade of sixty 
feet per mile. After passing this tunnel the road encounters almost 
immediately the main Alleghany, which is pierced with a tunnel nearly 
forty-eight hundred feet in length, passing four hundred and fifty feet 
belows its crest. The summit level is on the eastern side 2,060 feet 
above tide, and from its ditches the water flows at will, either to the 
Atlantic or the Gulf of Mexico. 




GREENBRIER WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS, WEST VIRGINIA. 

The grade descends through the tunnel at the rate of thirty feet per 
mile ; and the road, now on the affluents of the Kanawha, descends with 
the streams, losing nothing by undulations, nowhere exceeding thirty feet 
per mile ; and after clearing the Alleghany twelve miles west of the 
tunnel, with nothing over twenty feet per mile until steamboat naviga- 
tion is reached (until sixteen miles below Charleston, in fact), a distance 
of a hundred and sixty miles, with gentle curvature, forming one of the 
grandest and best constructed roads between the East and the West. 

At Alleghany Station passengers leave the railroad by stage for the 
Sweet Chalybeate Springs, nine miles ; and Old Sweet Springs, 



POPULAR KESOUTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM, 281 

nine miles; and Red Sweet Springs, eight miles, — each popular 
with its patrons. Four miles west of the tunnel are the White Sul- 
phur Springs, twenty-two miles from Covington and two hundred 
and twenty-seven from Richmond. The White Sulphur Springs, now 
opened to easy access from every part of the country, will long maintain 
their royal prerogative, as the high domain of Virginia aristocracy and 
fashion. Compared with Saratoga in landscape beauties, the latter sinks 
out of all pretence of just comparison. Saratoga is as barren of natural 
graces and woodland beauty, as the White Sulphur region is profusely 
endowed with rural delights and a sweet atmosphere. 

The hotel accommodations here are simply enormous, but with increased 
patronage, induced by improved railway facilities, even these must fall 
short of the demand. In the twenty-two miles before reaching White 
Sulphur Springs, the road has passed through eight tunnels, aggregating 
two miles and a quarter in length ; besides through and over other work 
encountered at every step, of the heaviest character, which has cost over 
four million dollars, a considerable portion, however, including most 
of the tunnel, being constructed for a second track. This work was 
planned and mostly executed by Charles B. Fisk, State Engineer, and 
was completed by the Chesapeake and Ohio Railroad Company. From 
the Alleghany tunnel, the road follows the waters of Howard's Creek to 
the Greenbrier River, with two tunnels and some heavy embankments and 
bridges, showing conclusively that the grand scenic character of the route 
is still maintained. It then follows the Greenbrier for thirty-seven miles, 
cutting off bends here and there, three of them by tunnels. The first, 
near Second Creek, is sixteen hundred feet long, and on a curve of sixteen 
hundred and thirty feet radius through a bold limestone cliff; the second, 
eleven hundred feet long, was in rock and earth ; the third, one and a 
quarter miles in length, the longest on the road, saving over eight miles 
in distance at the " Great Bend." This tunnel was worked from two 
shafts and from the portals ; it passes four hundred and seventy feet 
under the crest; one of its shafts was three hundred and seventy feet in 
depth ; the tunnel was completed in two years and four months. The 
lines of the engineer, carried from the shafts and portals, varied from the 
true line only a fraction of an inch. There are three fine iron bridges 
over the Greenbrier, of from four hundred to five hundred feet opening. 
There are many striking views on this part of the line, which, alternating 
with the rugged mountain scenes, give additional interest to the route ; the 
road skirts frowning limestone cliffs of great height, then dashes through 
quiet meadows giving charming views of the beautiful river buried 
among the mountains. For most of the distance the road is but a few 
feet above extreme high water, but on emerging from the Great Bend 
tunnel the traveller finds that the river by its greater length has fallen 



282 



POPTILAR KESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



to nearly one hundred feet below him. This elevation is reduced as he 
approaches the junction with New River about six miles below. 




The New River (more proper- 
ly the Kanawha) rises in North 
Carolina, and where we join it 
is a large stream, broader than 
the James at Richmond. The 
road follows it for sixty miles, 
imtil it loses itself in the Kan- 
awha, never losing sight of it 
save where it passes through a 
tunnel or a deep cut. Its valley is from six hundred to one thousand 
feet below the general level of the country ; and it cuts below the bases 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



28S 



of mountain ranges, whose axes cross its course. The minor streams, 
which, running parallel with these ranges, drain the country, plunge 
down precipices to reach its level. It crosses thus these mountain ranges, 
a mighty river often fifteen hundred feet wide, and sometimes not a hun- 
dred, falling an aver- 
age of ten feet per 
mile, and for twenty 
consecutive miles of 
its course seventeer 
feet to the mile, in 
places a roaring tor- 
rent, its bed obstruct- 
ed with gigantic bowl- 
ders, which have rolled 
from the cliffs above ; 
bowldei's often meas- 
uring thousands of 
cubic vards. At first o 

it is a wide noble river, s 

o 

with here and there a g 

strip of meadow on its -r, 
bank, and here and [i 
there a cliff, but always -^ 
buried in the moun- ^ 
tains. M o u n t a i n s ^ 
clothed with forest, ^ 
with here and there a 5 
gray crag jutting out: < 
this is its character for 
ten miles. Suddenly 
it plunges twenty-four 
feet at the Great Falls, 
a grand waterfall. Its 
valley is here con- 
tracted : it is bounded 
by overhanging sand- 
stone cliff's more than 
a hundred feet in 
height, and falling 
back from these are 
still the rugged slopes 
of great moimtains. Here the engineers had some trouble. The traveller 
will see it, and he will see rocky glens opening to his view as he passes. 




284 



POPULAR RESOBTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



lighted by falling cascades, and unfolding scenes rich in landscape 
beauty ; but it would require too much space to describe such details. 
The valley becomes narrower as we descend, the mountains more ele- 
vated ; but the bends of the river are gentle, and for more than fifty 
miles but one tunnel is passed, this at Stretcher's Neck, where a tunnel of 
nineteen hundred feet saves four miles in distance. This tunnel is on a 

curve. The western end 
gave great trouble in its 
construction. After the 
arch was completed, a 
slide from the mountain 
crushed portions of it 
and the stone portal, and 
an interior arch became 
necessary. It is now 
perfectly safe, but re- 
duced to single track 
dimensions for eighty 
feet. At the western 
portal of this tunnel may 
be observed the greater 
height above the river 
due to its longer course 
and the gentle grade of 
the railroad. One mile 
below on the right is a 
beautiful cascade where 
Dowdy Creek ("What's 
in a name ? ") joins the 
river. At Suttle's Clilf, 
still lower down, there is. 
a hundred and thirty feet 
cutting, but it is embank- 
ment on the river side. 
At Seioell, formerly 
known as Boyer's Ferry, 
forty miles below the 
mouth of Greenbrier, the 
valley becomes a true 
canon. For twenty miles below there is not a strip of arable land in the 
valley, and at points the cliffs are perpendicular from the river edge. 
Here the scenery is wild indeed. Such slopes as these are generally covered 
with bowlders, some of immense size ; and along these slopes and imder 




WHITCOMB'S BOWLDER. 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



285 



frowning cliffs the railroad gropes its way under their shadow ; one of 
which, Whitcomb's Bowlder, it was proposed to tunnel as the easiest solu- 
tion of a location of the road, and it was actually under-cut on one 
side for trains to pass. The passenger looks upwards a thousand feet or 
more as the train sweeps a graceful curve around some concave bend, and 
sees the beetling cliffs of many colored sandstone, looking with their 
great angles like gigantic castles and fortresses erected by Nature to 
guard these her penetralia. 

The running of New River Rapids, once a common occurrence, will 
soon become one of the things of the past, and its recital placed among 

the events of " a good while 
ago." Before the completion 
of the railroad, this means of 
transportation was much in 
vogue. The accompanying 
illustration will convey a fair 
idea of the passage. " The 
boats are admirably adapted 
to the work they have to do. 




RUNNING NEW RIVER RAPIDS. 

More than sixty feet long by less than six feet wide, they accommodate 
themselves very well to the impetuous torrent, and are for these waters 
excellent seaboats. The steersman, clear-eyed, skilful, cool-headed, as 
he needs to be, winds a parting blast on his horn as your boat is let go. 
Three negroes make up the whole crew : the headsman, who is in fact 
the captain, stands in the bow to direct the steersman by waving his 
arms ; the steersman, who guides the boat with a long and powerful oar ; 
and a third man who accelerates its speed with oars, in the eddies and 
smooth parts of the river. The headsman or captain knows the river^ 



286 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



and he not only directs the course of the boat, but has besides under his 
own control an oar projecting from the bow with which in sudden to 
slue the boat more quickly around." Tourists will, " for the novelty of 
the thinq;." occasionally try the passage of New River Rapids ; for although 

seldom at- 
tended with 
serious re- 
sults, the occa- 
sion is one of 
e X c i t e m ent 
and adven- 
ture. 

^Vmong the 
beautiful cas- 
cades, that of 
FLrn Spring, 
about six 
miles below 
Sewell, is 
much a d- 
mued. The 
stream, often 
very 1 a r g e, 
pours d o w n 
the mountain 
siile for hun- 
dieds of feet 
ni volumes of 
sjtray and 
loam. The 
liver is very 
lapid: at low 
water, viewed 
fromthe cliffs, 
as from the 
Hawk's Nest, 
a white thread 
in the caiion; 
in floods, a 
raging torrent 
of astonishing 

power, rising at points, thirty, fifty, and even seventy feet above its low- 
water level. At Hawk's Nest the river is crossed by a fine iron bridge, 




MILLER'S FERRY, FROM THE HAWK'S NEST. 



poinrr,Au resorts, and how to ukaoh tiikm. 



287 



with six hundred and fifty feet opening and fifty-three feet above low 
water. It cost, with its masonry, one hundred and forty thousand dollars. 
From this point for eight miles the rugged character of the canon is 
intensified: the Hawk's Nest towers six iiundred feet above the road. 
The roadway is formed by blasting down precipices, the grade being 
from fifty to seventy feet above the river. It passes through tunnels. 
Streams of water falling from the mountain sides form beautiful cas- 
cades. The whole forms the grandest sight to be seen on this line of 
road, and one never to be forgotten. From this rugged pass the river 
glides into a lakelike opening. It soon receives the (Jauly, and loses 
its name in the Kanawlia. 




CHARLESTON, WEST VIRGINIA. 

Charleston, the capital of West 
Virginia, is a thriving and rapidly 
growing town, which promises to 
become in time an important man- 
ufacturing place, for which it has 
good natural facilities. After leav- 
ing the Kanawha, sixteen miles 
west of Charleston, the road crosses 
to the Ohio, and terminates at the 
Big Sandy River, the boundary of 
Kentucky and West Virginia. 



288 



POPULAR BESOBTS, ANI> HOW TO BEACH THEM. 




In its course the 
road passes through 
twenty-six tunnels, 
five of which are 
four thousand feet 
and more in length, 
the total amount of 
tunnelling being 
over seven miles. 

The reader who 
has followed this 
article cannot fail 
to notice the won- 
derful richness in 
popular resorts of 
the region through 
which the Chesa- 
peake and Ohio 
^ Railroad runs. Al- 
> though so fully de- 
°^ scribed, there are 
still many places 
having great local 
popularity, which 
have been barely al- 
luded to, and others 
for want of space 
entirely omitted, 
which in a future 
edition should re- 
ceive more atten- 
tion, both in illus- 
tration and descrip- 
tion. 

This new avenue 
of communication 
will develop untold 
sources of wealth 
from the hitherto 
laud-locked seclu- 
sions of both East- 
em and Western 
Virginia. 



POPULAK RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 289 

PLEASURE ROUTE No. 24. 

Richmond, "Washington, and the North, to Wilmington, 
N. C, Charleston, Savannah, Jacksonville, and New Or- 
leans. 

ATLANTIC COAST LINE. 

The Southern States are intersected by three great arteries of travel, 
leading directly from tlie north-east, so that the traveller or tourist, with 
his objective point as far distant as Mobile or New Orleans, and his 
starting point at New York or Washington, may have his choice out 
of the thi'ee, with the certainty in either case of rapid transit and a 
passage through an interesting section of country. Each through line 
is made up by the consolidation of- lesser ones, and is connected with 
the others by branch lines. They are severally known as the Atlantic 
Coast Line, the route being by the way of Richmond, Wilmington, 
N.C.. Charleston, Savannah, and Jacksonville, or New Orleans ; the 
Piedmont Air Line by way of Danville, Charlotte, Atlanta, and 
Mobile to New Orleans ; and the Great Southern Mail Route by 
the way of Bristol, Knoxville, and Chattanooga, to New Orleans and the 
South-west. 

There are few places of popular resort on the first-named line before 
reaching Charleston, although the traveller with plenty of time will find 
it well employed in stopping at some of the more important stations for 
a day or longer. Among the watering places of lesser note, which lie 
scattered through the eastern part of North Carolina, either upon the 
Coast Line, or attainable by the various intersecting branches, are Lack's 
Springs, about two miles distant from Macon Depot, on the Raleigh 
and Gaston Railroad; Panacea Springs, about the same distance 
from Littleton Station, upon the same road: Cleveland Mineral 
Springs, Causilor's Springs, and Sparkling Catawba, in Lin- 
coln County, and Sulphur Springs, in Gaston County, along the line 
of the Wilmington, Charlotte, and Raleigh Railroad. These last are 
tolerably well developed. Lewis' Mineral Springs He on the Wil- 
mington and AVeldou Railroad, five miles from Faison Station. 

Spring Church, locally celebrated for its medicinal waters, lies 
three miles distant from Pleasant Hill Station, on the Petersburg and 
Weldon Railroad, just over the North Carolina border. There ai-e here 
two or three good boarding-houses, but no hotel. The village is famous 
as having once been a popular duelling ground for the North Carolina 
chivalry. 

The tourist who wishes to visit the battlefields of the State can stop 
at Mount Olive, on the Wilmington and AVeldon link of the line. 



290 POPULAR RESORTS, AND IlOVf TO REACH THEM. 

Within twelve miles of this station were fought the battles of Bentons- 
ville, AVhitehall, and Neuse River Bridge, the former quite an important 
engagement. 

"Wilmington lies twenty miles from the sea, on Cape Fear River, 
and attracts a portion of the Southern winter travel. At the mouth 
of the river are situated Fu7is Fifilier and Castcell, both of which 
played an important part in the scenes of the Rebellion. Besides com- 
munication by rail, there is a weekly line of steamships to New York. 

Camden, on the Wateree River, is a beautiful South Carolina town, 
possessed of considerable historic interest. Two battles were fought 
here in the time of the Revolution : one between Gates and Cornwallis, 
and the other between Greene and Rawdon. The remains of Baron 
De Kalb, who was killed in the former battle, lie under a handsome 
monument on the village green. 

Columbia, the capital of South Carolina, is a pleasant little city. 
Nearly half its present residents are from the North. It was burnt by 
Sherman on his "march toward the sea," but has been rebuilt in a 
far more tasteful manner. The Congaree Falls are a few miles 
distant, and attract a large number of visitors annually. There are 
several good hotels in Columbia, the principal being the Nickerson 
House and the Columbia Hotel. The more prominent stations between 
Columbia and Charleston are interesting to the tourist, mainly on 
account of their Revolutionary associations. At Orangeburg are to be 
seen the remains of the works erected by Lord Rawdon, for defence, 
after the fall of Charleston. 

The Healing Springs, three miles from Blackhill Court House, 
after passing Orangeburg, are widely noted for their remedial qualities. 
They are three in number : an iron, a sulphur, and a seltzer spring. The 
climate is remarkably equable and healthful, resembling very much that 
of Aiken. The accommodations are fair. At the Court House there are 
three hotels, churches, telegraph-offices, &c. 

Farther on is Eutaw Springs, the locality where a well-known 
Revolutionary battle was fought. At Branchville, sixty-eight miles 
above Charleston, the Charleston and Augusta Railway takes the tourist 
or invalid to Aiken, a place which within the past few years has 
become extensively known for the salubrity and remarkable healing 
qualities of its climate. A dozen years ago it was a mere village ; now 
it is a large and flourishing town. Hundreds of families from the North 
make it their residence during the w^inter months, while the permanent 
population has doubled within the past five years. The climate seems 
to have an extraordinary effect on those afflicted with pulmonary diseases, 
and many remarkable curps have been effected by that alone. The 
visitor will find an excellent hotel and numerous boarding-houses of 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO RKACH TITKM, 291 

a select character. There are many delightful views in the vicinity, and 
no better society can be found anywhere in the South. 

Charleston is considered by many the most beautiful city of the 
South. It lies at the confluence of the Cooper and Ashley Rivers, both 
broad and beautiful streams, and seen from the harbor presents a charm- 
ing appearance. In the summer some of the streets are perfect forests 
of palmettos and magnolias, which cast a grateful shade over the stately 
old-fashioned mansions of the city, rendering them delightfully cool and 
pleasant in the hottest of the weather. The public buildings are none 
of them worthy of especial mention. The visitor will find the older 
part of the city interesting, its general character being unlike that of 
any other in the country. The best general view of the old quarter, and, 
in fact, of the whole city itself, is from the tower of S(. Michael's 
Church, on the corner of Broad and Meeting Streets. This, the oldest 
church in Charleston, was built in 1752, and its tower is regarded as the 
finest in the South. Its chimes are peculiarly sweet, and can be heard 
for a long distance. Another fine view is to be had from St. Phillip's, 
on Chui'ch Street, a structure nearly as old as St. Michael's. In the 
ancient graveyard connected with St. Philip's Church are buried some 
of the most famous men of the State : Calhoun, Christopher Gadsden, 
William Moultrie, the Pinckneys, Rutledges, Middletous, and others 
equally well known. 

The two most popular hotels of the city are the Charleston and the Mills 
House, both first class in every respect. There are others less stylish, 
but with quarters as comfortable and tables as abundant. 

The Ports are objects of attraction to tourists, especially since the 
war. Castle Pinckney stands at the entrance of the harbor. South of 
it lies Fort Ripley, built during the first years of the war, principally of 
palmetto logs ; beyond lies Moultrie. Inside the harbor, grim, battered, 
and still defiant, stands Sumter. On Sullivan's Island may still be seen 
the ruins of works erected before the Revolution, as a defence against 
the French and Spaniards. 

Sullivan's Island, in Charleston Harbor, is the great fashionable 
watering place of the State, and it is difficult to imagine any thing more 
delightful than a sojourn here in the heated season. Before the war 
there was a splendid hotel upon the island, the Moultrie House; but it 
was destroyed during the struggle, and has not yet been rebuilt. There 
are scores of beautiful villas and cottages, however, already erected, and 
every season sees the number largely added to. A steamer runs hourly 
between the island and Charleston during the " season." The beach is 
admirably adapted for sea-bathing, and there are many fine drives in the 
neighborhood. Mount Pleasant is another favorite resort of the Charles- 
tonians. 



292 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

Between Charleston and Savannah there is no place of note which 
would attract the tourist. Savannah is one of the finest and most 
rapidly-growing of all the Southern cities. Its streets are much broader 
than those of Charleston, and its squai'es, or plazas, — twenty-four in num- 
ber, — filled with trees and adorned with beautiful shrubs and fiowers, 
render it a paradise in all seasons. The climate is exceedingly health- 
ful ; and many from the North, who are troubled with pulmonary com- 
plamts, resort there during the winter months. The suburbs are delight- 
ful, and are permeated by scores of beautiful drives. Four miles out is 
Bonaventure Cemetery, on the AVarsaw River, renowned for its pictur- 
esque beauty ; and a mile farther is Thunderbolt, a famous summer 
resort for the residents of the city. Fort Pulaski, on the south side 
of the entrance to Savannah River, is well worth a visit. The principal 
hotels are the Pulaski House, the Marshall House, and the Scr'wen House. 

The tourist over this line will hardly care to stop between Savannah 
and Jacksonville, if his purpose is to visit Florida. Trains with palace 
cars attached run through without change, or passage can be taken by 
steamship which runs weekly between the two ports. The only resort 
on the railroad worthy of mention is Su"wannee Springs. These 
have become within the past ten years very popular, and large numbers 
of invalids and pleasure-seekers gather there every summer. There are 
a hotel and numerous boarding-houses. The springs are located directly 
on the line of the Florida division of the Atlantic and Gulf Railroad, 
at Suwannee Station. 

Jacksonville is situated on the \\estern bank of the St. John's River, 
twenty-five miles from its mouth, and has a population of about twelve 
thousand. Since the war it has grown rapidly, large numbers having 
emigrated from the North. There are a dozen or more hotels of fair 
character, and many boai'ding-houses. 

The St. John's River is the principal attraction of Florida, and is 
much frequented by tourists. Large excursion steamers run up from 
Jacksonville as far as Pilatka, seventy-five miles, daily, and from there 
light-draft steamers continue to Enterprise, and to the interior lakes and 
tributaries. 

Green Cove Springs, on the west bank of St. John's River, thirty" 
miles from Jacksonville, is the best known watering-place in Florida, 
and is being rapidly developed. The spring, which gives its name to the 
place, discharges a volume of water which is estimated at three thou- 
sand gallons per minute. The temperature never changes, summer or 
winter, remaining always at 78° Fahrenheit. The basin of the spring 
is about forty feet in diameter, the water, which is very strongly impreg- 
nated with sulphur, being from twenty to twenty-five feet deep in the 
centre. A line of steamers run from Jacksonville daily, and there 



POPULAR KESOKTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM. 293 

are excellent hotel accommodations for those who wish to j^rolong 
their stay. 

Silver Spring is one of the most remarkable localities along the 
river. It is large enough to be navigable, and the water is more 
transparent than glass. 

Lake George, formed by a sudden widening of the river a hundred 
miles above Jacksonville, is noted for its romantic beauty. It is dotted 
witli picturesque islands, which are covered with foliage of tropical 
growth. 

Green Spring, an extraordinary sulphur spring of a green color, 
is located at Enterprise, on the east bank of the St. John's River, 205 
miles from Jacksonville, and at the head of steamboat navigation of the 
river. Enterprise is becoming one of the most important points in 
the South for tourists and sportsmen. Here is the grand gathering- 
place for fishing and hunting parties who propose to visit the Indian 
River country. The fishing and hunting of the region is unsurpassed 
by that of am'' other locality in the South, or even in the United States. 
There is one really first-class hotel, and several smaller, with boarding- 
liouses. Enterprise is reached only by steamer from Jacksonville, or 
!)y the way of St. Augustine and Tocoi. 

Fernandina has the reputation of being one of the most bracing 
and healthful places in the South, and has for years been resorted 
to by invalids and consumi:)tives. It has three or four respectable hotels 
and many boarding-houses. 

St. Augustine is one of the most interesting places in the whole 
South for the tourist to visit. It is the oldest settlement in the United 
States, having been founded by the Spaniards in 1565. The city and 
suburbs are rich in historical associations, many of the buildings dating 
nearly three centuries back. The climate is magnificent. There are 
several hotels, the best of which is the St. Aufjustine. The approach is 
from Jacksonville to Tocoi, on the St. John, and from thence by rail. 

Florida is one of the most delightful camping-out grounds for pleasure 
parties in the country, a subject well worthy the attention of those fond 
of rural sjiorts. 

The amount of pleasure travel to Florida the past season is remark- 
able, with a prospect of steady increase. 



294 POPUIiAR EESOBTS, AND HOW TO BEACH THEM. 

PLEASURE ROUTE No. 26. 

Richmond, Washington, and the North, to Danville, Char- 
lotte, Atlanta, Mobile, New Orleans, and the South. 

THE PIEDMONT AIR LINE. 

The tourist South who, taking the Piedmont Air Line from Rich- 
mond, desires to visit the principal places of resort, will find himself 
constantly obliged to leave the main road for branches and stage- 
lines leading to them. As a general thing, these deviations are pleasant, 
as they afford a change of scenery and sometimes of locomotion, and 
enable one to see more of the real character of the country than would 
otherwise be the case. The Piedmont Air Line combines several 
important roads under one general management, and, with its connec- 
tions, furnishes an uninterrupted route of travel from New York to 
Florida, passing through Virginia, North and South Carolina, Georgia, 
and Alabama. At prominent points it connects with lines running 
east, west, north and south, affording innumerable opportunities for 
digression. 

The first point of divergence after entering North Carolina, to reach 
special points of interest, is at Greensboro', a. thriving manufacturing 
and mining town. The tourist can here take the North Carolina Rail- 
way for Goldsboro', and beyond, to Newbern and Beaufort, points 
which, though possessing no particular attractions, are yet much visited 
since the war. Raleigh, the capital of the State, lies on this road, and 
is well worth a brief visit. The State House, which is modelled after 
the Greek Parthenon, was at one time considered, next to the Capitol in 
Washington, the finest legislative structure in the United States. Two 
excellent hotels are to be found here. Hillsborough is another 
interesting stopping place. Here the Provincial Congress at one time 
held its sessions, and later it was occupied as the State capital. Lord 
Cornwallis made his headquarters here for some time, and the house 
occupied by him is still standing. The locality is yet pointed out 
where several of the early North Carolina patriots were executed by 
order of Gov. Tryon. AVith one exception, Hillsborough is the oldest 
town in the State. 

Returning to the trunk line at Greensboro', if the tourist wishes to 
visit the springs and mountain resorts of Eastern North Carolina, stage 
can be taken for Salem, a romantic little town, from which the best 
known of them are accessible. The scenery of the region is very fine. 
Pilot Mountain is in the immediate vicinity of Salem, and attracts 
many summer visitors. It stands alone, and rises like a pyramid three 
thousand feet above the level plain. 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 295 

At Salisbury, fifty miles south from Greensboro', the tourist will once 
more diverge from the direct route for the wild mountain region of this 
State, via. the Western North Carolina Railroad. This section of the 
State is famous for its springs, a score or more of which enjoy a more 
or less extended reputation for their medicinal qualities. 

Morganton is one of the most beautiful of the villages of North 
Carolina, and affords a good base for the visitor who wishes to make 
excursions to the various gaps, valleys, and secluded places of the region. 
Magnificent views are obtained from the highlands in the vicinity. 

Piedmont Springs lie only about fifteen miles distant. The waters 
are highly esteemed by the residents of that portion of the State, and 
are said to really possess remarkable curative properties. A stage runs 
daily from Morganton to the springs. The hotel accommodations are 
not extensive, but are of good quality. 

Twenty-five miles from Morganton, and attainable by stage from that 
place, are the Linnville Falls, which are the most remarkable in some 
respects of any in the country. As yet they are little visited, save by 
the more adventurous of tourists. "They are about 150 feet -wide at the 
first fall, the water making a succession of leai:)S before reaching a fath- 
omless basin, three thousand feet from the summit. The view is said 
to be grand beyond description." 

The objective point of most pleasure-tourists over this route is 
Ashville, just west of the Blue Ridge. The terminus of the railroad is 
at Old Fort, 114 miles from Salisbury. From this point stages run 
regularly, passing through Swananda (Jap, a romantic route. Another 
means of approach is by leaving the trunk line at Charlotte, forty-three 
miles below Salisbury, going by way of Lincolnton and Shelby. Near 
the latter station is Wilson's Springs, a very popular watering-place 
in the State, and largely patronized during the hot season. B}'^ taking 
this route, the traveller passes through the famous Hickory Nut Gap, 
one of the most delightful mountain passages in the whole South, and 
destined in time to become a grand swarming-place for tourists. It is 
nine miles in length, and is flanked on each side by immense cliffs, 
rising, in places, perpendicularly from a thousand to fifteen hundred 
feet above the roadway. 

Ashville is in no sense a watering-place, although several well- 
known springs are in the immediate vicinity. All the railways west 
of the Blue Ridge converge here. Some of the finest scenery in 
America lies within forty miles of the station, and the visitor can 
make this his base for hunting, fishing, and exploring excursions. 
There are two or three first-class hotels, and several excellent boarding- 
houses. Twenty miles from here is the famous Black Mountain, 
with its wild and attractive scenery. 



296 POPULAR KESOKTS, AND HOW TO BEACH THEM. 

Whiteside Mountain, in the valley of the French Broad River, 
on the route to Ashville by the way of Jones' Gap, is well worth the 
attention of the tourist. It rises abruptly to the height of fifteen hun- 
dred feet, and contains a cave which is accessible only from the top. 
Caesar's Head, on the same route, is a yet loftier peak. Mitchell's 
Peal; within easy distance of Ashville, is the highest point east of 
the Rocky Mountains. It rises seven thousand feet above the level 
of the sea, and affords one of the finest and most extensive views 
in the South. In Burke County are several remarkable mountain j)eaks, 
more or less noted. Hawk's Bill is a huge clifiE overhanging a 
rapidly-running stream. Table Rock and Ginger Cake Rock are 
both places of local resort. The whole course of the French Broad 
River, from Ashville to the Tennessee State line, is wildly romantic. 
Thirty miles from the former point are the Painted Rocks, a per- 
pendicular cliff three hundred feet in height, on which are traces 
of figures popularly supposed to have been made by the Indians. The 
Chimneys, a series of precipitous crags, lie in close pi'oximity to the 
rocks, along the banks of the river. 

The celebrated Warm Springs of North Carolina are located in 
this region, on the banks of the French Broad, some thirty miles west 
of Asheville. The waters are said to be a sovereign cure for rheumatic 
and neuralgic diseases. They are very clear and of a high temperature. 
Game and fish abound in the region, and the scenery is especially fine. 
There are two good hotels and several boarding-houses at the Springs, 
so that the visitor will find no lack of accommodation. There are two 
routes of approach from the North, — one by the way of Asheville, the 
other by taking the East Tennessee and A^irginia Railroad, leaving the 
cars at Greenville. The stage route both ways leads through a beautiful 
and romantic region, and is not so long as to be tiresome. 

Below Charlotte, on the direct line, and just over the South Carolina 
border, is the old battlefield of Khirj's Mountain. This vicinity 
is a favorite resort for tourists, not only on account of the magnifi- 
cent mountain scenery, but for its sporting facilities. Among the 
interesting localities and objects of visit in the neighborhood are 
the Great Falls of the Catawba, Hanging Rock, and Crowder's 
Knob, the latter being the highest peak of King's ^Mountain. 

Greenville, the best known of all the inland resorts of the State, 
lies at the foot of the Saluda Mountain, on Reedy River. Near it are 
some of the most famous mountain peaks whose names are familiar 
to tourists. Table Mountain, twenty miles away, rises 4,500 feet 
above the sea level, and shows on one side a dizzy precipice one thousand 
feet in height. Magnificent views are obtained from the summit, nearly 
every bold elevation of the mountain region of the State being visible. 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 297 

— Cpesar's Head, Bald Mountain, Stool Mountain, Pinnacle Rock, Saluda 
Mountain, and a dozen others. The visitor will find ample accommo- 
dations, and of a fair character. 

The White Water Cataracts, near Greenville, attract a large 
number of visitors yearly. They are exceedingly beautiful, and though 
not grand, are surrounded by the most charming expanse of country. 
Slicking Falls, in the same vicinity, have a deserved popularity, and 
are much frequented by pleasure-seekers during the season. Both are 
reached by stage from Greenville. Within easy distance is the famous 
Keoicee region, and the Jocasse Valley, the latter being regarded 
by visitors as one of the most romantic and charming little nooks in 
the South. 

Crossing into Georgia, the Air Line passes through the romantic 
mountains of that State, concerning which so much has been said of 
late years. The entire mountain region of Georgia abounds with beau- 
ties, especially that of the north-eastern portion of the State. The key 
to this section of the country, and the grand starting-point for tourists' 
excursions, is Clarksville, in Habersham County. AVithin a circuit of 
iifty miles lie some of the most noted mountain resorts of Georgia, — 
peaks, waterfalls, springs, and valleys, — most of them mentioned under 
their appropriate heads in another portion of this book. In the western 
part of the broken region is Rock Mountain, a summer resort of 
considerable local repute. It is between two thousand and three thou- 
sand feet in height, and on one side is a solid, precipitous mass of 
rock over nine hundred feet high. Upon the summit are the ruins of an 
ancient fortification, the builders of which are unknown. 

Twelve miles from Clarksville are the famous Falls of Tallulah,. 
or cataracts, as they are sometimes called. There are a dozen or more 
of them, each possessing its peculiar attractions. They are more like 
furious rapids than falls, the river which furnishes the water flowing 
through an immense gap, a thousand feet in depth, in some places com- 
pletely hidden by the immense cliffs which bend over it. Toccoa 
Falls, equally celebrated as a resort for tourists, lies only about five 
miles distant. Both places furnish fair accommodations for visitors. 

The Falls of the Eastatia, in Rabun County, twelve miles from 
Tallulah, are coming into notice, but on account of the difficulty of 
access are as yet little visited. The Falls of Amicalolah, in Lump- 
kin County, in the same region, consist of a succession of cascades from 
twenty to eighty feet in height. The Falls of the Towalaga, on the 
line of the Macon and Western Railway, are said to be particularly 
beautiful, and preparations are being made to furnish accommodation to 
visitors. 

The whole mountain region of the State is thickly permeated with 



298 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

medicinal springs of greater or less popularity. Most of them are acces- 
sible by stage from the various stations along this line and its connec- 
tions. They need to be developed to become popular. 

The Red Sulphur — comprising twenty different springs within an 
area half a mile square, consisting of magnesia, chalybeate, red, white, 
and black sulphur — situated in the north-western part of the State, 
are becoming justly popular. The scenery is celebrated for its 
beauty, and the opportunities for hunting and fishing are better than 
are usually enjoyed in the vicinity of watering-places. Lookout Moun- 
tain in Tennessee, elsewhere described, is in the immediate neighbor- 
hood, and forms an objective point for summer parties and tourists. 
The best method of approach is from Trenton, on the Alabama and 
Chattanooga Railroad, the second station south of Chattanooga. 

"Warm Springs are located in Meri-iwether County, thirty-six miles 
north-west from Columbus. Visitors should leave the Atlanta and West 
Point at Lagrange Station, taking the stage for the remainder of the 
journey. Accommodations fair. 

The Chalybeate Springs lie about seven miles south of the warm 
springs, and are reached by stage from Geneva, on the Muscogee Rail- 
road. 

Madison Springs, in INIadison County, have a high local reputation, 
and bid fair in time to become one of the most popular watering-places 
in the State. There are several good boarding-houses, and the waters 
undoubtedly possess medicinal value. The visitor should take the stage 
which leaves Athens, on the Georgia Railway, for the waterfall region 
of Habersham County. 

The Sulphur Springs, in the northern part of the State, are reached 
by the Athens Branch of the Georgia Railway, or by the Air Line, 
leaving the train at Gainesville. The distance by stage is seven miles. 

Indian Springs, which have been favorably known for many years, 
and which of late have been rapidly gaining in popularity, are located 
in Buttes County, thirty miles south of Covington. They are reached 
by stage from Forsyth, a station on the Macon and Western Railway. 

Powder Springs, twenty miles from Atlanta, magnesia and sul- 
phur, enjoy some local reputation. They are reached by stage from 
Atlanta. Rowland's Mineral Springs, in Bartow County, are 
reached by stage, five miles from Cartersville, on the Western and 
Atlantic Railway. Catoosa Springs, a well-known summer resort, 
are four miles, and Cherokee Spring two miles, from Ringgold, on 
the same line of railway. 

Atlanta, aside from its importance as a railroad centre, and from 
the war associations with w-hich it is connected, has little to recommend 
it to the traveller or tourist. It is now the State capital, and contains 



I 



POPULAK RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 299 

some fine public buildings. Its principal hotel, the Kimball House, is 
said to be the finest in the Southern States. Atlanta is connected with 
Augusta by the Georgia Railway, with Macon by the Macon and West- 
ern Railway, and with Chattanooga by the Western and Atlantic Rail- 
way. The two former, with their extensions, connect with the Atlantic 
Coast Line. 

There is little of interest for the general traveller between Atlanta 
and Montgomery, the capital of Alabama, nor, in fact, in tlie latter city. 
From Montgomery the tourist can either proceed to Mobile and New 
Orleans by the Mobile and Montgomery and Western Railway, or keep 
directly on to Jackson and Vicksburg. 

Mobile, 186 miles south-west, is a busy and very pleasant city. 
Excepting the forts, there is little to see. The place is poor in public 
buildings and hotels, although the Battle House has a fair reputation. 
The Gulf Shell Road is a magnificent drive along the bay, between 
eight and nine miles in length. 

Talladega Springs, the best sulphur springs in the State, are 
located on the line of the Selma, Rome, and Dalton road, eight miles 
from Wilsonville. Shelby Springs are about tlie same distance from 
the same station. Chandler Springs and Sulphur Springs, in 
the same county and on the same line of road, are distant from Munford 
Station, respectively, twelve and eight miles. Bladen Springs, well 
known to tourists, lie on the Tombigbee River, in Choctaw County, and 
can be reached by packet from Demopolis, on the line of the Alabama 
Central, tri-weekly. All these furnish fair accommodations for visitors, 
and will doubtless improve in the future. 

The journey from Mobile to New Orleans is through a flat and unin- 
teresting country. Biloxi, Pascagoula, Pass Christian, and Bay St. 
Louis, are resorted to more or less by the people of both cities during the 
season, though neither of them can be properly classed under the head 
of popular resorts. Considerable effort is now being made to improve 
resorts, and add to their attractions. 

New Orleans is in many respects one of the most interesting of 
the cities of the South. Its early history is familiar to every school- 
boy, and the prominent part it played during the late war has made 
it and its surroundings almost as familiar to the residents of the 
North as Philadelphia or Chicago. Its limits enclose innumerable 
places of interest. Many of the old relics of Spanish rule still exist 
in the older i)art of the city, while the numerous cemeteries, parks, 
walks, and drives offer a succession of attractions of which the visitor 
never tires. Since the war it has become popular as a winter for fami- 
lies from the North. 

Lake Pontchartrain, five miles north of the city, is a great place 



300 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



of resort. Large pcarties go there to hunt and fish, and portions of its 
shores are peculiarly eligible for picnics and pleasure excursions. There 
is a single hotel at the terminus of the railway ; but it is by no means 
fii-st-class, and affords very limited facilities to permanent boarders. 
Trains run from the city hourh^. 

The Plains of Chalmette, the scene of the battle between the 
American troops under Gen. Jackson and the British under Gen. Paken- 
liam, Jan. 8, 1815, is one of the prominent points of interest to be visited. 
The plains lie south of the citj', on the banks of the Mississippi, and 
are reached by the street-cars. Gretna is a pleasant little suburb, lying 
across the river, and contains many stylish residences. The celebrated 
Metaire track, the great race-course of the South, lies two miles out of 
the city, on the Lake Pontchartrain Railroad. 

The New Orleans hotels are among the best in the country. The 
most noted are the St. C/iarle.% the St. Louis, the St. James, and the City 
Hotel. Besides these there are several prominent restaurants, two or 
three of which have a local reputation equal to that of Delmonico's 
in New York. 




^^ 



POPULAU HESORTS, AND HOW TO HKACir TIIKM. 801: 

PLEASURE NOUTE No. 26. 

Richmond, Washington, and the North, to Lynchburg, 
Bristol, Knoxville, Chattanooga, Memphis, New Orleans, 
Little Rock, the South and South-west. 

THK <;i{i;.\T .SOt'TIIKH.V iMAII. ItOI'TK. 

Thk third ji^reat route to the South i,s by tli<? way of Lyuchl)uri,s 
Kuoxville, Chattauooga, and Memphis. 

Leaving Richmond, over the Great Southefu Mail Route, tiie tourist 
passes through a portion of Virginia not only noted for its magniHcent 
scenery, but for its historic associations, both in the past history of 
tlie country, and connected witli the late war. After crossing tin; .lanics 
River, the road traverses the great tobacco section of the Stati'. 'I'hc 
Mid-Lothian coal-mines, thirteen miles from Richmond, are wortiiy 
a brief visit by those who are interested in the natural and mineral 
resources of the State. But-ksville, Farmville, and Appomattox are I'apidly 
passed ; the latter forever famous in American annals as tin; closing 
event of the war of the Rebellion. Tiiose who wish to make a i)ersonal 
survey of the country where the grand final scen<! Ijctween the two 
armies took place can leave the train at either station, and procure a 
private team and guide for the purpose. 

Lynchburg, 125 miles from Richmond, possesses no particular inter- 
est for the traveller. It is built upon several small but very steej) hills, 
and from its being a railroad centn^ conveniently located to the " sjirings 
region " of Virginia, has acfjuired consideraltle importance with tourists 
as a starting-point for the popular re.sorts in this section of the State. 
At the time of Gen. Lee's retreat from Petersburg, Lynclibui-g was 
the point aimed to be reached ; and had the attem])t been successful, 
and the western mountain passes gained, the war mij^ht havti lasted a 
year longer. West of Lynchburg, a short ride, an? the Bedford Alum 
Springs, which an; considered valual)l(; in cases of dyspepsia. (>n(; of 
the principal elements of the waters is sulphurate of iron. The accom- 
modations for visitors are very good. 

From Lynchljurg the route extends through the south-western i)ortion 
of the State, intersecting the springs region, and with its stage and rail 
coimections giving access to most of tlie jiopular resorts and places of 
interest south of Richmond. South-westcMii Vii-ginia is famous for its 
wild and sublime scenery, and foi' its numerous natural curiosities. It 
is intersected l)y the great Alleghany range, whose slopes, piccijtices, and 
" gaps" furnish a never-ending series of surprises for tlie traveller who 
has an eye for the grand or picturesque. 

Twenty-five miles below Lynchl)urg is tin; thriving little village of 



302 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

Liberty, a point of divergence for travellers who wish to visit the Peaks 
of Otter, ten miles distant. These magnificent elevations are cut off 
from the rest of the range, rising in lofty grandeur five thousand feet 
above the sea level, and visible more than a hundred miles away. A 
portion of the ascent is made on horseback. The last half-mile is accom- 
plished by climbing over huge precipitous rocks, bare of verdure, and 
looking as if ready at any moment to tumble into the depths below. The 
Southern historian Pollard, in describing a visit to the Peaks, says, 
" There are many mountains higher ; there are others, it may be, with 
more merit or interest in the surroundings ; but none which produce so 
terribly sublime an emotion of suspension in the sky. ' ' 

Bonsack's Station, twenty-two miles beyond Liberty, is a familiar 
locality to tourists who have visited the springs region. From here there 
are several lines of stages, connecting with the Natural Bridge, thirty 
miles distant ; Lexington, forty-two miles ; Sweet Springs (the " Old " 
and ' ' Red ") , forty-seven miles ; and the ^Vhite Sulphur, sixty-four miles. 
Coyner's Springs are within a mile of Bonsack's. The waters — 
black and white sulphur — are considered specifics for several diseases. 
Coyner's is a very popular resort during the hot season, and the scenery 
in the vicinity is remarkably fine. Beside boarding-houses there is an 
excellent hotel within three minutes' walk of the station, and equally 
near to the springs. 

Alleghany Springs, the waters of which are celebrated throughout 
the country as a reliable specific for dyspepsia, lie about three miles from 
Alleghany Station, thirty miles beyond Bonsack's. They are delight- 
fully situated on the Roanoke River, at the eastern foot of the Alleghany 
Mountains, and are largely patronized. The hotel accommodations are 
sufficient for a thousand persons. Among the places of interest in the 
vicinity are the famous Puncheon Run Falls, where, through a huge 
rent high up the precipitous sides of a mountain, a foamy series of cas- 
cades leap from rock to rock, plunging two thousand feet into a black 
abyss below. 

Fisher's View, only five miles from the springs, is a locality much 
favored by visitors, and the frequent scene of picnic and excursion 
parties. From its summit, which is easily reached, an extended view is 
obtained of the surrounding mountain region. 

Ten miles farther on are the Montgomery White Sulphur 
Springs, one of the most popular summer retreats in the South, and 
patronized by the most fashionable society. They are only a mile distant 
from the railroad, horse-cars and coaches making constant connection 
between trains and hotels. Their situation is highly romantic. A broad 
lawn, through which flows a rippling brook, is backed by a ragged spur 
of the AUeghanies, over which in various directions run excellent roads 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 303 

which are scarcely ever dusty. Forests, groves, valleys, and mountaia 
peaks ai-e within easy distance. Fish are plentiful in the streams, and 
the sportsman occasionally is able to " draw a bead " on a deer. The 
hotel buildings are spacious and elegant, and within the past two years 
have been largely added to. One of the favorite pastimes at this resort 
is the "tournament," which is always an event of interest throughout 
the country surrounding, and is largely attended. 

The Yellow Sulphur Spring is less than five miles distant from, 
the Montgomery, and can be reached, either by stage from that place, 
or from Christiansburg, a station on the Virginia and Tennessee division 
of the road. This is noted as a quiet resort for families, the waters 
being celebrated for the cure of children's diseases. The spring is noted 
for being the loftiest in the State, — not more than sixty feet below the 
summit level of the mountain from which it flows. The hotel accommo- 
dations are as yet somewhat limited, but very comfortable. 

Thirty-two miles from the Montgomery, and about twenty-three miles 
from Christiansburg, is the famous Salt Pond, a small but unfathom- 
able lake among the mountains, 4,500 feet above the level of the sea. 
No stream leads into or out of it. Bald Knob is the highest peak of 
the ridge on whose shoulder Salt Pond is situated, and nearly a thousand 
feet higher. From its summit one can look into five States, — Virginia, 
West Virginia, Kentucky, Tennessee, and North Carolina. 

It may well be asked why tourists should seek the mountain regions 
of the North with such a desirable locality near at hand. Bald Knob 
needs but to be better known to become the goal of mountain pleasure 
seekers. Its hotel accommodations, heretofore limited, are improving 
with the demands of travel, and this has already become a favorite summer 
home for families. The attractions are enhanced by many and various 
natural curiosities in the vicinity, — streams, falls, glens, and mountain 
views. The unwritten history of this region, as a popular resting-place, 
is pleasing to contemplate. 

A short distance from Salt Pond are Eggleston Springs, too far 
from the railroad to be largely patronized, yet possessing peculiar 
attractions. Tourists who visit the region generally make this their 
base, deflecting to the right and left to the numerous localities of interest 
which lie within a radius of twenty miles. 

Little Stony Falls, seven miles from Eggleston's, have a descent 
of sixty feet clear, and then break into a succession of short falls, an 
equal distance. The speed of the water is terrific, and it seems as if 
projected over the precipice by some tremendous unseen power high up 
the moimtain side. 

Pompey's Pillar is a curious-shaped cliff rising sheer out of New 
Kiver, near the Springs, three hundred feet in height. The scenery 



304 POPULAR EESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

along the banks of this stream for a hundred, miles is of the most romah- 
tic character. 

At Newbern, stages run to Red Sulphur, White Sulphur, 
and Salt Sulphur Springs, already described in the Chesapeake 
and Ohio route, and to the Pulaski Alum Springs, only ten miles 
distant. 

At WytheA^Ue, stages run to the Sharon Alum Springs, twenty- 
five miles distant. At Glade Spring Station, connection is made with 
the Washington and Seven Mine Springs, two miles distant : 
and from Saltville, the next station, Red and White Rocks, on 
Clinch Mountain, White Top Mountain, and Chilhowee Springs, 
are easily reached. 

Bristol, which lies partly in Virginia and partly in Tennessee, is the 
diverging point from w^hich to reach the Holston Springs, in Scott 
County. The distance, over a good stage road, is twenty-eight miles. 
Under proper management this w^ould in time become one of the best 
known watering-places in the country. Its development thus far has 
been very slow. There are four kinds of water, common limestone, 
chalybeate, a thermal, and white sulphur ; and the different springs are 
so close together that the visitor can in turn drink from each with taking 
a step. The hotel accommodations are fail-. 

Ten miles to the west of the Springs is the Natural Tunnel, one of 
the greatest curiosities in Virginia. It is reached by stage from Estill- 
ville, fourteen miles distant, on the Holston Kiver. The tunnel is five 
hundred feet in length, piercing the solid rock, and in shape like the letter 
S. The height of the arch varies from twenty to ninety feet. The 
scenery in the vicinity is wildly and magnificently grand. The toiu*ist will 
find excellent accommodations at Bristol, and a fair hotel at Estillville. 

After leaving Virginia, and entering Tennessee, the road passes through 
a g]-eat variety of landscape, varying from the rugged and majestic scen- 
ery of the mountain region to the softly rolling meadows of the valleys 
which intersect it. 

Cumberland Gap, the great highway between South-western Vir- 
ginia and the adjoining States, is a w^onderful work of Xature, — a huge 
gash through the backbone of the towering range of mountains, six miles 
in length, and of a width varying from twenty to several hundred feet. 
Precipitous mountains rise on either side to a vast height ; and the 
traveller who journeys along the narrow roadway may, in places, look 
sheer up the sides of the rocky wall a thousand feet before his gaze rests 
on the topmost crag- During the war this gap was strongly fortified by 
the Confederates, who held it for months against the strategy aiid 
attacks of a vastly superior force ; thus defending the railroad commu- 
nications between Richmond and the South. The gap lies in Knox 



POPULAR RESOIITS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 806 

County, Kentucky, upon the borders of East Tennessee, and can be 
readied by leaving the line at Rogersville Junction, taking the Jeifersou 
Railroad to its terminus, and staging it from there. 

The Cumberland Mountains in this region are honeycombed with 
caves, the best known of which is Big Bone Cave, called so fi-om the 
fact tluit a large number of fossil bones of an immense size were found 
in its interior when it was first discovered. 

At Knoxville, in Tennessee, the tourist will find himself well repaid 
for a day's stop. It is a small but delightful city, and was formerly the 
capital of the State. Some of the most important strategic movements 
of the war were made around Knoxville, the best remembered, perhaps, 
being the siege of the city l)y the Confederate forces in November, 18G3. 
Betw(;en this point and Clia^tanooga are scattered most of the medicinal 
springs of the State, although none of them are on the direct line of the 
road. 

They ai-e many in number, yet few of them have attained any partic- 
ular celebrity. Some of them, if the accounts of visitors are to be relied 
upon, possess remarkable medicinal qualities, and when properly devel- 
oped will doubtless prove more attractive. All of those mentioned in 
the list below are comparatively easy of access, and possess accommoda- 
tions of a respectable character. Two or three have good hotels, while 
the rest are supplied with boarding-houses, sufficient in numbers and 
capacity to fulfil all present demands upon them. 

Montvale Springs, nine; miles south of Maryville station, on the 
Knoxville and Charleston Railroad, have an excellent reputation, and are 
well patronized. Sulphur Springs lie three miles from the station 
of that name on the Cincinnati and Cumberland Gap Railroad. Bon 
Aqua Springs, whoso virtues are of recent discovery, are situated 
near thj line of the Nashville, Chattanooga, and St. Louis Railroad, six- 
teen miles from McEwen's station. White Clifif Springs and 
Chilhowee may be reached from Riceville station on the Eastern Ten- 
nessee and Virginia road; the stage-route to the former is twenty-four, 
and to the latter sixteen miles. Along the same road are Tate 
Springs, twelve miles from Morristown station ; Warm Springs, 
eight miles from Granville, and Chalybeate and Black and White 
Sulphur Springs, four miles from Union depot, in Sullivan County. 
Stares run from all the stsltions named to the various places. 

No part of Tennessee has, since the war, been so much frequented by 
tourists as that about Chattanooga, the natural gateway of the South, 
and in the very heart of the mountain region. The city lies on the 
south bank of the Tennessee, and in regard to climate is unsurpassed 
by any place in the Union. Hundreds of invalids spend their winters 
there, invariably with benefit. Within easy distance are Lookout 



306 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

Mountain, the Tumbling Shoals, Lake Seclusion, Walden's 
Ridge, City of Rocks, Sulah Palls, and other objects of interest. 
Of these, Lookout Mountain is the best known and the most famous. 
It shoots up three thousand feet feet, j)ushing the Tennessee from its 
straight course several miles to the north, and, although six miles distant, 
seems to overshadow the town. From its lofty summit the tourist can, 
on a clear day, see into seven States. Along its sides was fought the 
celebrated "battle above the clouds," in November, 1863, between the 
Federal forces under Hooker and the Confederates under Bragg, the scene 
of a magnificent historical painting by the celebrated artist, Walker. The 
hospital buildings erected by Government on Lookout are yet standing, 
and ai-e utilized in the summer by the swarms of visitors who make the 
place nearly as lively as in the days of the "great unpleasantness," 
though in a different way. Five great railways converge at Chatta- 
nooga, — the Nashville, the East Tennessee and Georgia, the Alabama 
and Chattanooga, the Atlanta, and the new Cincinnati Southern. 

Chattanooga is connected with Atlanta by the AVestern and Atlanta 
Railway. Along this line were fought some of the bloodiest and most 
desperate battles of the late war, the entire distance of 138 miles having 
been contested step by step by the two great armies. 

Huntsville, Alabama, is the next station on the main line claiming 
attention. It is considered by travellers one of the most beautiful towns 
in the South. Here is the largest spring on the continent. Nine miles 
from Huntsville are Johnson's Wells, a popular resort for invalids 
and pleasm'e-seekers. At Sbevenson, the junction of the Memphis and 
Charleston and the Nashville and Chattanooga Railroads, the tourist can 
diverge from the trunk line to visit Beersheba Springs or the roman- 
tic SuTVanee. A short distance below Decatur, on the Alabama Rail- 
road, are Blount's Springs, whose waters and hotel accommodations 
are growing in favor every year. On the same road are the beautifully 
situated Valhermosa Springs. At Tuscumbia, the passenger wish- 
ing to reach Bailey's Springs takes a branch road to Florence, and 
stage thence. These springs have had a high reputation for many years, 
and are annually patronized by large numbers. 

The Mineral Springs at luka, on the main line, are famous 
throughout the South for their important medicinal qualities. They are 
of varied character, — chalybeate, sulphur, alum, &c. There is an excel- 
lent hotel within five minutes' walk of the principal spring, with croquet 
ground, music stand, and various outdoor conveniences for visitors and 
parties. The village itself is very pleasant, and contains good schools, 
several churches, telegraph office, &c. It will be remembered as the 
scene of one of the fiercest-fought battles of the war of the Rebellion, 
between Price and Rosecrans, in the autumn of 1862. 



POPILAK ItKSOUTS, AXD HOW TO REACH THEM. 307 

Memphis is the principal city of Tennessee, and, with a population 
already of fifty thousand, is growing' rapidly. From here the tourist 
may select any one of a dozen different routes. Five railroads have their 
termini here; while daily lines of steamers connect with Vicksburg, Cairo, 
Cincinnati, Louisville, and New Orleans. Its railroad lines west extend 
to Texas and the Lidian Territory. 

The three great trunk lines already described are crossed nearly at 
right angles by routes equally important, — the Mobile and Ohio, the New 
Orleans, St. Louis, and Chicago, and the two great lines from Nasliville 
south, one terminating at Mobile, and the other, by connections, at 
Charleston, Brunswick, or Savannah. On the Mobile and Ohio Railway 
are to be found the principal watei'ing-places of Mississippi. The best 
known of these are the Lauderdale Springs, eighteen miles north of 
Meridian, on the line of the Mobile and Ohio Railroad. They have many 
visitors in the summer months, and are highly spoken of by medical 
authorities, and are reached by stage from the above station. The accom- 
modations are very good. 

Three miles from Durant station, on the same road, are the Mineral 
Springs, much resorted to by those who are troubled with diseases of 
the liver and kidneys. Greenwood Springs, whose reputation is rather 
more extended, are reached by stage from Aberdeen, a distance of eighteen 
miles, the terminus of Aberdeen branch of the Mobile and OJiio Railroad. 
White Siilphur Springs, twenty-two miles from Tupelo, on the IMobile 
and Ohio road, are becoming a favorite resort for those troubled with 
diseases of the skin and stomach. Godbald's Mineral Wells, two 
miles from Summit station, on the New Orleans, Judson,and Great North- 
ern Railroad, are regarded as of great efficacy in curing certain diseases. 

Crossing the Mississippi, a line of railway one hundred and thirty- 
five miles in length connects Memphis with Little Rock, the capital of 
Arkansas. Sixty miles to the south-west from the latter point, ui the 
very heart of an almost inaccessible mountain range, lie the famous 
Hot Springs of Arkansas, over a hundred in number. Some of them 
are only moderately warm, while in others an egg can be cooked in a few 
minutes. A little village has been built, and, in the summer, parties of 
tourists make the locality tolerably lively. It is being rapidly developed, 
and in a few years will take its place as the Saratoga of the State. Eight 
miles distant, on the Ouachita River, is what is known as the Sulphur 
Spring, where patients are sent to recover from the. debilitating effects 
of the hot baths and sweats. The accommodations are fair. Twelve 
miles to the north-east are the Mountain Valley Springs, where a 
new hotel has been recently erected with accommodations for a hundred 
patients. The waters here are said to be an infallible cure for dropsy, 
gravel, and Bright's disease of the kidneys. 



308 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 



PLEASURE ROUTE No. 27. 

Prom Cincinnati and the North- West to Mobile, New Or- 
leans, and the South. 

LOUISVILLE AXD GREAT SOUTHERN ROUTE. 

The tourist South who has Chicago or Cincinnati as a starting-point, 
or who takes either of those cities in his way, finds his best route by the 
way of the Louisville and Great Southern line, with its extensions and 
connections. Several important roads from the east, the north-east, 
north, north-west, and west converge at Louisville as a grand central 
point. From here the direct southern line extends through Nashville, 
Decatur, Montgomery, and INIobile to New Orleans, while the south- 
western line branches below Bowling Green at Memphis Junction, and 
extends to Memphis, with direct connection by means of the Memphis 
and Little Ilock, Cairo and Fulton, and the International Raihoads, to 
different points in Arkansas and Texas. From Humboldt and Memphis 
in Tennessee important roads connect Avith Mobile and New Orleans. 

Leaving Cincinnati by the Louisville, Cincinnati, and Lexington Kail- 
road, the tourist crosses the magnificent suspension bridge which con- 
nects that city with Covington, on the opposite side of the Ohio River. 
The span between the two towers is 1,057 feet, the most extensive in the 
world. The entire length of the bridge is nearly 2,300 feet. Covington 
is very pleasantly situated, and is one of the busiest and most pros- 
perous cities in Kentucky. > 

The Littonian Springs are only four miles from Covington, and 
hai'dly farther than that from Cincinnati. Of late years considerable 
pains have been taken to add to the natural attractions of the place; and 
during the season the waters are drank daily by excursion parties from. 
Cincinnati, Covington, and Newport. 

At Lagrange, eighty miles below Covington, a branch road leads to 
Lexington, from which point many beautiful and romantic spots in 
Eastern Kentucky can be reached by various stage lines. Frankfort, 
the capital of the State, lies upon this branch. Thirty miles below 
Frankfort, by stage, is Harrodsburg, once the great fashionable water- 
ing place of Kentucky, and, indeed, of the South. It is romantically 
situated upon high ground near Salt River. Formerly it was greatly 
affected by Southern politicians, and the outline of many a campaign 
has been laid in the private parlors of the fashionable hotel of the village. 
The waters of the springs here are famous for their tonic and curative 
properties. The scenery iu the neighborhood is lovely, the people emi- 



I 



POPULAU RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 309 

nently social, and the accommodations for visitors equal to those of any 
other place iu the South. 

Lexington can also be reached by the Kentucky Central Railway, from 
Covington, the route leading tlirough an important section of the State. 
The famous Blue Lick Springs are reached by this road, the tourist 
taking stage at Paris, eighty miles south of Covington. One of the 
principal points of interest in the immediate vicinity of Lexington is 
Ashland, the former home of the great Kentucky statesman, Henry 
Clay. It resembles very little the place of thirty years ago, but still 
retains numberless charms for admirers of the beauties of nature. 

Louisville, one of the finest and most agreeably situated cities of 
the middle range of States, is located on the Ohio River, at its junction 
with Bear (irass Creek. The streets are handsomely laid out and beau- 
tifully shaded ; and some of the public buildings, as well as many of 
the private residences, are very fine. It has several excellent hotels, the 
best known of which are the Louisrille Hotel, the United Slates, and the 
National. 

The Tar and "White Sulphur Springs are four miles from 
Cloverport, on the Ohio, and are easily accessible from that point. The 
Drennon Black Sulphur Springs lie near the Kentucky River, in 
Henry County. In the summer there is a regular steamer from Louis- 
ville. 

At Mumfordsville, seventy-three miles below Louisville, is a 
remarkable s^M-ing and other natural curiosities whicli annually attract a 
largo number of tourists. In this vicinity occurred a number of skir- 
mislies and one or two battles between Generals Buell and Bragg, in 
1802. 

At Elizabeth town, if the tourist wishes to visit the White Sulphur 
Springs, somewhat famous in Western Kentucky, he will diverge from 
tlie trunk line, on the Elizabeth and Paducah Railroad, taking stage at 
Litchfield station, from which place the springs are but four miles distant. 
The waters possess considerable virtue, and during the season the place 
is well patronized. The accommodations are not extensive, but of a fair 
character. 

MAMMOTH CAVE. 

Returning again to the grand route, the tourist's next stop is at Cave 
City, eighty-five miles south of Louisville, and one hundred north of 
Nashville, on the Green River. This is the nearest point of approach to 
the Mammoth Cave, the most wonderful curiosity in the South, and, 
we might perhaps add, in the whole world. At Cave City will be found 
an excellent hotel, furnishing ample accommodations to the largest 
pai'ties. Two hours' drive takes the visitor to the Cave Hotel, a large 



310 POPUI.AK RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

and well-kept house, hardly more than two hundred paces from the 
entrance to the cavern. There are yet other methods of reaching the 
locality. If the tourist choose, he can land within a mile of the cave by 
taking the excursion steamer from Louisville ; or he may take stage at 
Bowling Green, passing over twenty miles of excellent road and througli 
a most romantic section of country. 

There is an immediate change of temperature noticed on entering the 
cave, the air feeling pleasantly cool, but not chilly. Summer and 
winter, the thermometer always stands at 59 Fahrenheit. A person has 
never been known to take cold from a visit to the cave. It is a singular 
fact, that no impure atmosphere exists in any part of it, while decomiw- 
sition of animal and vegetable matter is unknown. It is estimated that 
there are over three hundred miles of walks, avenues, and galleries already 
explored in connection with the cave, while there is a possibility of a 
much larger territory yet untrodden by the foot of man. 

The Great Vestibule, a short distance from the entrance, is an immense 
hall, nearly two acres in extent, over a hundred feet high, and with not a 
single central support. Its dome is lost in inky blackness, which tlie 
torclies of the guides fail to wholly dispel. A mile farther on the Church 
is reached, a saloon three hundred feet in circumference, with a height 
of neai'ly seventy feet. Here is a natural pulpit, and behind it a large 
gallery, as if especially designed for a choir. Divine worship has many 
times been held in this subterraneous cathedral, and concerts are often 
given by visiting parties. A short distance beyond the church the 
avenue divides into two passages, one leading to Gothic Acenue, and the 
other a continuation of the main cave. The avenue derives its name 
from its resemblance to the interior of a Gothic cathedral. It is fifty 
feet wide, fifteen feet high, and two miles long. For a large part of the 
way the ceiling is as smooth and white as if laid on by the most skilful 
trowel. The purity of the atmosphere of this portion of the cave renders 
it a most desirable promenade for invalids. Fifty years ago two mum- 
mies were found in a niche at the farther extremity of the avenue, in a 
perfect state of preservation. One was a female in a sitting posture, 
with her arms folded across her breast. They were clandestinely re- 
moved, but by whom, or where they were placed, was never discovered. 
The Register Rooms are next reached, the low ceilings of which are as 
white as if made so by the hand of art. Here countless visitors have 
written their names with the smoke of candles. A little farther on the 
visitor enters the Gothic Chapel, a hall of surpassing beauty and gran- 
deur, fifty feet by eighty feet in width, and elliptical in form. At each 
end are immense stalagmites, and, in addition, double rows of smaller 
pillars depend from the ceiling on each side, at about equal distances, 
giving it the appearance of one of the religious structures of mediaeval 



POPULAR RESOKTS, AND HOW TO KEACII THKM. 311 

Europe. It is often liglited up for the gratification of visitors, and pre- 
sents on such occasions a scene of surpassing magnificence. The DeviPs 
Armchair, an immense, solid stalagmite, is a special object of interest; 
so, also, is the Lover's Leap, a huge pointed rock, ninety feet above the 
floor of the cavern. Nearly every projection, pit and pillar, room and 
avenue, has its peculiar name ; and, as there are nearly three hundred 
avenues and passages alone, the impossibility of naming each in so briei' 
a description will readily be seen. The lower branch of Gothic Avenui- 
may be reached by a detour just beyond Lover's Leap, though nothing 
especially remarkable is to be seen. 

Returning to the Grand Avenue, the Ball Room is the first locality 
where the visitor will feel inclined to linger. Although no regular ball 
has ever been given here, improvised dances frequently take place, and 
the sound of laughter and gay voices echo strangely through the vaulted 
passages and chambers adjoining. Leaving here, the visitor is suddenly 
surprised by a huge black object to which has been given the name 
of GianCs Coffin. It occupies a very conspicuous position, the path 
making a bend around it by which the main cave is left to visit the 
rivers and other wonders beyond. Next comes the Star Chamber, the 
most brilliant of the many apartments of the cave. Splendid formations 
of transparent gypsum incrust the walls and ceiling. When the light 
of many torches illumines the sparkling crystallizations which ornament 
the magnificent dome, it is as if myriads of stars had made their appear- 
ance in the arch above. As the visitors move about, waving their lights, 
the whole cave seems filled with glittering objects, which, with the vast 
size of the chamber and the snowy whiteness of the sides and floor, 
makes it seem like one of the gorgeous halls described in the Arabian 
Nights. The Chief Clt/j or Tejnple, farther along, just beyond Rochj 
Pass, covers an area of nearly two acres : over it springs an immense 
dome a hundred feet high. It is larger than the celebrated cave of 
Staifa, and very nearly as large as the grotto of Antiparos, said to be 
the most extensive in the world. A huge pile of rocks, called The 
Mountain, rises nearly in the centre, up which adventurous visitors fre- 
quently climb, after kindling fires at the foot. The effect is said to be 
ma.gnificent in the extreme. Gorin's Dome used to be regarded as one 
of the chief wonders of the cave. It is reached by the Labyrinth. Tin- 
dome is apparently two hundred feet high, its sides presenting tlu; 
appearance of having been fluted and polished, while a huge rock depend- 
ing from the summit is so disposed as to resemble a curtain. The 
Bandit's Hall forms a sort of antechamber to a number of interesting 
apartments. An avenue to the left leads to a dozen or more domed 
apartments, one very much like another ; another to the left leads to 
the Mammoth Dome. This is one of the most sublime spectacles to be 



312 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

witnessed in this wonderful cavern. The dome is four hundred feet 
above the floor, and is only visible under the intensest light. The River 
Hall and the Dead Sea are among the most prominent attractions of 
the cave. The former is a huge slope up which the visitor ascends until 
he reaches a steep precipice, over which he looks down, by the aid of 
torches, upon a broad, black sheet of water eighty feet below, named 
appropriately the Dead Sea. The sight is dark, lurid, and terrific as the 
throat of the infernal pool. 

There are several rivers in the cave, the smallest of which is the Styx. 
Crossing it by a secure bridge, the visitor finds himself on the banks of 
La^e Lethe, where boats are in waiting to convey such as may wish on an 
aquatic excursion over its waters. On the opposite bank the Great Walk 
leads to Echo River, three-quarters of a mile in length, and sufficiently 
large and deep to float an ocean steamer. Four miles from Echo River 
is Cleveland^ s Avenue, various places of interest being passed on the 
way. Close by is the Holy Sepulchre and Mary^s Vineyard. The avenue 
is three miles in length, and from fifty to seventy feet in height, and may 
be designated as one of the most wonderful objects in the world. It is 
replete with formations that are to be found nowhere else in the entire 
cave, and of surpassing beauty. Cleveland's Cabinet is a perfect arch of 
fifty feet span, extending nearly two miles, and incrusted from end to 
end with the most beautiful formations, and of every variety of form. 
The Snow-ball Roo7n, a large apartment, looks as if a crowd of sportive 
schoolboys had been engaged in pelting the sides and walls with snow- 
balls. Beside these named there are hundi-eds of other places and objects 
of interest, — the Rocky Mountains, Croghan's Hall, Serena's Arbor, the 
Dining Hall, Fat Man's Misery, the Relief Room, &c., which space for- 
bids us to mention. 

Language unaided by cuts is inadequate to a satisfactory description of 
a place so intricate and peculiar, and yet so vast. It is hoped, therefore, 
the next edition of " Popular Resorts " may present a descriptive article 
upon this wonderful freak of nature, fully illustrated. 

There are several smaller caves in the vicinity, the finest of which, per- 
haps, is Indian Cave, about half way between Cave City and the hotel. 
The formations are even finer than those to be found in its larger neigh- 
bor. Diamond and White's Caves both lie within a short distance 
of each other, and near the Mammoth. A few miles away is the Natural 
Bridge, nearly one hundred and fifty feet high, with a span of seventy 
feet. Indian Rock and Pilot Rock, both curious formations, are 
also within easy distance of the cave, and are notable attractions of the 
region. 

Tlie Ancient Mounds, which are scattered through the length and 
breadth of the State, are objects of interest which the tourist cannot 



POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 313 

afford to neglect. Some of them are of immense extent. No trace has 
ever been found by which to identify the builders. The most interest- 
ing of these mysterious works, perhaps, is that in Allen County, a few 
miles from Bowling Green, which attracts large numbers of visitors the 
year round. Others, which in their day must have been fortresses of 
immense strength, are found in Boone, Warren, Bourbon, Montgomery, 
and other counties. 

Nashville lies at the head of steamboat navigation on the south side 
of the Cumberland River, the better portion of the city lying on a bluff" 
above the river. Duiing the summer months there is a large influx of 
visitors from the lower States. The climate is exceedingly mild and 
healthful. The Capitol building is, with one or two exceptions, the finest 
in the United States. President Jackson's former residence, the Hermit- 
age, lies in the immediate vicinity, and is visited by thousands of tour- 
ists every season. 

Elkmont Springs, a favorite summer resort, lie upon the same 
line, just over the Alabama border, ninety-five miles south of Nashville. 
Blue Springs are located one mile, and Valhermosa forty miles, from 
Decatur, the most important town of Northern Alabama. Blount 
Springs, the most fashionable watering-place in the State, are located 
twe)ity-one miles from Birmingham station, on the North and South 
Alabama Railroad portion of the line, and near the banks of the Black 
Warrior River. For many years it was the best known resort in the 
Gulf States, and was largely patronized. The place is coming into notice 
again, and visitors are beginning to make it an objective point. Stages 
leave Blrminr/ham Station daily for the springs. The accommodations, 
though hardly what they were some years before the war, are yet of a 
fair order. 

There are to be found upon the branches and connections of the Great 
Southern, as well as upon the other North and South routes mentioned, 
various places of moi-e or less local note, at present undeveloped, but of 
future promise. As yet they are hardly of sufficient importance to 
claim special mention. Illustrated descriptions, as are given in other 
sections of the country, would add to their interest and popularity. 



314 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

THE WESTERN STATES. 

No section of the Union embodies such a variety of scenery as the 
Western States. Every grade is represented, from the beautiful level 
prairie, the deep stately river, to the broad inland sea, and the bold, 
snow-capped mountain. The scenic features of the West must always 
be described by superlatives. Here are the highest mountains, tlie 
deepest canons, the largest lakes, and the longest rivers ; and here, too, 
are the broadest prairies, the highest waterfalls, the largest trees, — 
in a word, the grandest elements of the country are here. Her pleasure 
resorts, though new, are rapidly improving in character, and increasing 
in popularity. At present those of the great North- West are the best 
known ; but the startling grandeur of the Far West is attracting the atten- 
tion of tourists, and each year adds its thousands of visitors. Illustrated 
descriptions of Western scenery, heretofore less common than in many 
parts of the country, will do much to increase its national popularity. 
This will require time ; yet it is hoped that the next edition of ' ' Popular 
Resorts " will represent fully this interesting section of our country. 
Language, so lavishly used in the description of tamer scenes, utterly fails 
to convey to the understanding a just conception of the grandeur and 
sublimity of many features in the Far West. Even the most successful 
attempts of artists are tame when brought in comparison with these 
works of the Great Architect. 

jNIichigan. — The Peninsulas of Michigan present many attractions to 
summer tourists, — attractions which each year increase in popularity, 
and must soon become favorite spots for summer recreations. 

Detroit and Toledo are the princij^al cities, and will command the 
attention of visitors. 

The Magnetic Spring, recently ox^ened at Alpina, Thunder Bay, 
■on the north-eastern shore of Michigan, is attracting much attention. 
Its chemical and magnetic properties are very remarkable, and will well 
repay an investigation from the tourist. 

Another Magnetic Spring at St. Louis, near the centre of the State, 
reached by the Saginaw Valley and St. Louis Railroad, is much fre- 
quented by invalids from the South. The Midland Magnetic 
Springs, on the line of the Flint and Pere Marquette Railway are 
receiving much attention. 

Mackinaw, a favorite resort, is reached by steamers from Bay City 
three times a week, also from Detroit, Cleveland, Buffalo, and Chicago. 

Indeed, there are many interesting features being developed on the 
line of the Flint and Pere Marquette Railway, extending from Toledo 
north-westerly through the State to Ludington on Lake IMichigan, which 
may receive attention in the next edition of " Popular Resorts." 



POPUIvAR KESOKTS, AXI) HOW TO REACH THEM. 315 

PLEASURE ROUTE No. 28. 

Richmond (Ind.), Cincinnati, Louisville, and the South, 
to Grand Rapids, Traverse City, Northern Michigan, and 
the Straits and Island of Mackinaw. 

GRAND RAPIDS AND IXDIAXA RAILROAD. 

This route runs directly north through Indiana, dividing longitudi- 
nally the eastern peninsula of Michigan, and leading directly to a large 
}iumber of popular resorts, at present being developed in that State, 
many of which, for the pleasures they afford, will soon successfully rival 
the summer resorts of older sections of the country. Although unpre- 
pared to give illustrated descriptions, a few of the more prominent places 
of interest will be briefly alluded to. 

" The triangular part of Northern Michigan, lying between the Straits 
of Mackinaw on the north, the Grand Rapids and Indiana Railroad on 
the east, the Manistee River on the south, and Lake Michigan with its 
indentations on the west, offers a comparatively unknown region, with 
many charming spots which, once visited, always command a return. 

" The streams swarm with the finest fish, and the many beautiful lakes 
scattered throughout the forests are rare jewels set by the hand of Na- 
ture. To the Grand Traverse region we draw particular attention. The 
healthfulness of this section, like its scenery and fishing, is unsurpassed. 
Good hotel accommodations are generally obtainable. Visitors should 
not expect the conveniences and cuisine of city houses ; but good food, 
well cooked and presentable, with clean and comfortable beds, can gen- 
erally be procured. 

*' Richmond, Ind., is the southern terminus of the Grand Rapids 
and Indiana, Railroad, and the junction of the same with the Pittsburgh, 
Cincinnati, and St. Louis, and Cincinnati, Hamilton, and Dayton Rail- 
roads. 

" In the depot, which is occupied by all of the above roads, the travel- 
ler will find a good dining room and lunch counter. 

" The Grand Rapids and Indiana Railroad runs its through coaches 
over the Cincinnati, Hamilton, and Dayton Railroad to and from Cin- 
cinnati, thus offering a through railroad line from the Ohio River to 
Petoskey, on Little Traverse Bay, and Traverse City, on Grand Traverse 
Bay. " 

The following are among the places of interest reached : — 

Fort Wayne, Ind. (twenty minutes for dinner), Rome City, Ind., Kala- 
mazoo, Mich., Grand Rapids, Grand Haven, with its Mineral Springs, 
Howard City, Reed City, where the line crosses the Flint and Fere Mar- 
quette Railroad, Tustin Station, near which is Pine Ricer (good Grayling 



316 POPULAR PvESOKTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM. 

fishing), Diamond Lake, Hewitt Lake, Rose Lake, — all well stocked with 
fish. 

Clam Lake is twelve miles from Tustin, with a village of twelve 
hundred inhabitants, fine fishing, and comfortable hotels. At Mayfield 
Station, near which is Boanlman Ricer, is the trout stream of Northern 
Michigan ; Traverse City, with two thousand inhabitants, located on 
Grand Traverse Bay, Lake Michigan, with good fishing, is the next place 
of importance. Near by are Cedar Lake, Bass Lake, Betsey Lake, Long 
Lake, and Traverse Lake, each noted for their fine fish. Brook trout are 
very abundant in the vicinity. Fife Lake is four miles north of Walton 
Junction. 

Kalkaska, county seat of Kalkaska County, is literally surrounded 
by small lakes, plentifully supplied with fish. Four miles west from 
Nelsonville, through an unbroken forest, is Intermediate Lake, narrow, 
but twenty-four miles long, fed by many streams filled with trout. 
Guides are required. The fishing is superb. 

Returning to the railroad, Petoskey is the northern terminus of the 
main line, 494 miles from Cincinnati. A steam yacht runs to Little 
Traverse, near which are Round and Crooked Lakes ; and a swift steamer 
connects with Mackinaw Island, five hours distant. " This lovely island 
is one of the finest summer resorts in Northern Michigan. Its locality, 
scenery, bathing, boating, and fishing, present irresistible attractions to 
the tourist, invalid, and sportsman. For hay fever and asthmatic affections 
its air offhs speedy relief. By a recent act of Congress, the island of Mack- 
inaw has been declared a National Park. The points of interest are Fort 
Mackinaw, on a rocky eminence just above the town, which was built by 
the English about ninety years ago, and Fori Holmes, the crowning point 
of the island, also built by the English, and originally called Fort George. 

" There are three hotels on the island, with accommodations for about 
five hundred guests, and numerous comfortable boarding-houses are 
located at various points. 

" From Petoskey the tourist may proceed to Charlevoix, sixteen miles 
distant, by steamer. This town is charmingly located on a peninsula 
formed between Pine Lake and a small body of water called Roimd 
Lake, at the mouth of the former. The surrounding scenery is romantic. 
From Charlevoix the visitor may proceed to Traverse City. Fine fishing 
in the bay, lake, or rivers, with a steamboat ti-ip to Torch Lake, and a 
visit to the large blast furnaces located here, serve to while away the 
houi's. Then boarding the steamer he passes up Elk River a mile, and 
enters Elk Lake, a beautiful expanse of water ten miles in length and 
from two to three miles in breadth ; entering through " the narrows, ' • 
to Round Lake, so called, whose length is about four miles with a breadth 
of two; thence running up Torch River^ a. stream three miles long. 



POPUI-AU UESOUTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 317 

always interesting with its curious windings and tortuous channels, its 
thickly-wooded banks and wild scenery. From the head of this stream 
he enT.ers the lower end of Torch Lake, one of the loveliest in the world, 
rivalling the famous Lake George, eighteen miles long, and from two to 
three miles broad. Reaching Torch Lake village, near the head, he finds 
good hotels, splendid scenery, and excellent fishing. Look oul for lijing 
yuides at thi^ point .' 

After wearying of this locality, the visitor may take the little steamer, 
and be deposited with his boat at the mouth of Clam Lake, flowing into 
the east side of Torch Lake. Passing up Clam Lake, he will presently 
come to a "narrows," leading into Grass Lake, which is joined to Inter- 
mediate Lake by Grass River, a very swift stream, not navigable, but 
affording fine fishing. 

" Having gone the rounds with the visitor, we now leave him to his 
own inclinations, and continue our travels farther west." 

Chicago is also the most important railway centre in the Westei'n 
States, and its location serves to jnake it the most prominent business 
emporium. Although but seventy-five years old, it numbers over four 
hundred and fifty thousand souls. Its history has been varied and inter- 
esting, and singularly fraught with mishaps. It was settled in 1804 by 
John Kinzie; on the 7th of April, and 12th of August, 1812, the garrison 
was massacred by the Indians. In 1830 it had increased to but twelve or 
fifteen houses, and about one hundred inhabitants, all told. It became 
an incorporated town three years later, and was incorporated a city in 
1837, when the population had increased to 4,170. Its growtli has been 
steady and rapid. Its location, on the shore of Lake Michigan, at the 
mouth of the Chicago River, gives it peculiar business facilities. It is 
generally level, having a slight incline to the lake. No city in the coun- 
try has been so unfortunate as this. In the great fire of 1871, 13,800 
buildings were destroyed, by which 74,450 persons were made homeless. 
Yet with an energy and perseverance unprecedented the city has been 
rebuilt, and is to-day more beautiful than before. Chicago, being the 
great intermediate railway centre of the West, from which radiates a 
network of lines so conveniently arranged and so adroitly managed that 
every section is opened to commerce and to travel, must always maintain 
its prominence in business affairs. It is noted for its elegant build- 
ings, — improved since the fire, — fine bridges, and extensive tunnels, 
while its parks and boulevards are attractive and beautiful. Although 
not a popular resort, it contains much to interest the tourist. 



318 POPULAK KESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

BEYOND CHICAGO. 

Hitherto we have said but little about the railways or the coiintiy 
beyond Chicago. Many of our readers have "worn out," by constant 
visits, much of the scenery and tourists' resorts of the East, and are 
looking for " forests new and pastures green" elsewhere. We would 
invite them to look to the great North-west. Here they can find lakes 
and hills, mountains and valleys, woods and streams, new, and untrod by 
the Eastern tourist. To get to Chicago, you have various and good 
routes. 

Beyond Chicago, we would name the great Chicago and North-Western 
Railway, as a route having more terminal points, more connecting lines, 
and reaching more points of interest, than any other; and it may be 
taken, should you be on business or pleasure bent, or should you desire 
to reach Denver, and the mountains of Colorado, the wilds of Idaho and 
Montana, or the Pacific slope, or north-westwardly the woods and streams 
and lakes of Wisconsin, Minnesota, or the Lake Superior country of 
Northern Michigan. 

HISTORY OF THE LINE. 

In 1849 there was not a mile of completed railroad in the vicinity of 
Chicago. In that year W. B. Ogden was endeavoring to interest the 
people in the northern portion of Illinois to subscribe money to build a 
tramway along the I'oute of what afterwards became the Galena and 
Chicago Union Railroad. From that small beginning great results have 
grown. In time the Chicago and North- Western Railway Company was 
formed, and took unto themselves this first effort of Mr. Ogden, and also 
other lines projected by him and others. This great corporation now 
owns and operates over two thousand miles of road, that, radiating from 
Chicago like the fingers of a man's hand, extend in all directions, and 
cover about all of the country north, north-west, and west of Chicago. 
With one branch it reaches Racine, Kenosha, ]\Iilwaukee, and the country 
north thereof ; with another line it pushes through Janesville, Water- 
town, Oshkosh, Fond du Lac, Green Bay, Escanaba, to Negaunee and 
JNIarquette ; with another line it passes through Madison, Elroy, and for 
St. Paul and Minneapolis; branching westward from Elroy, it runs to and 
through Winona, Owatonna, St. Peter, Mankato, New Uim, and stops 
not until Lake Kampeska (Dakota) is reached ; another line starts from 
Chicago, and continues through Elgin and Rockford to Freeport, and 
connects for Warren, Galena, and Dubuque, and the country beyond. 
Still another route runs almost due westward, and passes through Dixon, 
Clinton (lo.). Cedar Rapids, Marshalltown, Missouri Valley Junction, to 
Council Bluft's and Omaha. This last-named is the ' ' Great Trans-Conti- 



POPULAR KESOKTS, AND HOW TO R?:ACH THEM. 319 

nental Route," and the pioneer overland line for Nebraska, Colorado. 
Utah, Idaho, JMoutana, Nevada, Califoniia, and the Pacific Coast. It 
runs tlirough the garden of Illinois ^nd Iowa, and is the shortest and 
quickest route for OmaJia, Lincoln, and other points in Nebraska, and for 
Cheyenne, Denver, Salt Lake City, Sacramento, San Francisco, and all' 
other points west of the Missouri River. 

POINTS REACHED BY THIS LINE. 

See, then, what one company can do for you. If you want to go to 
^Milwaukee, Fond du Lac, Sheboygan, Janesville, Watertown, Oshkosh, 
Green Bay, Ripon, ]Madison, Baraboo, Eau Claire, Hudson, Stillwater, 
St. Paul, Minneapolis, Duluth, Breckenridge, Fort Garry, Winona, Owa- 
tonna. New Ulm, Freeport, Warren, Galena, Dubuque, AVaterloo, Fort 
Dodge, Sioux City, Yankton, Council Bluffs, Omalia, Lincoln, Denver, 
Salt Lake City, Sacramento, San Francisco, or a hundred other northern, 
north-western, or western points, this great line affords the amplest 
accommodations. The track is of the best steel rail, is well ballasted, 
and all the appointments are first-class in every respect. The trains that 
run over this route are made up of elegant new Pullman palace drawing- 
room and sleeping coaches built expressbj for this line ; luxui'ious, well- 
lighted, and well-ventilated day-coaches, and pleasant lounging and smok- 
ing cars, all built by this company in their own shops. The cars are all 
equipped with the celebrated Miller safety platform, and patent buffers 
and couplings, Westinghouse safety air brakes, and every other, appliance 
tliart has been devised for the safety of passenger-trains. All trains are 
run by telegraph. It is acknowledged by the travelling jiublic to be the 
popular line for all points in Northern Illinois, Wisconsin, Minnesota, 
Northern Michigan, Dakota, Western Iowa, Nebraska, AA^yoming, Colo- 
rado, Utah, Montana, Idaho, Nevada, California, and the Pacific slope. 

SUMMER RESORTS. 

Tlie Devil's Lake country around Baraboo (171 miles from Chicago), the 
beautiful lake country around Madison (140 miles from Chicago), Sparta 
(a celebrated magnetic-spring resort), Escanaba, Fond du Lac, Green 
Lake, Elkhart Lake, Marquette, St. Paul, Minneapolis, the Falls of 
Minnehaha, Lakes Calhoun, Harriett, and Minnetonka, AVhite Bear Lake, 
Lake Como, and many other points on this route, are well worth visiting. 
Good hotels, and pleasant boarding and farm houses, abound ; near 
which you can find fishing, sailing, boating, and bathing to your heart's 
content. Lake Geneva, the gem of AVestern- lakes, is also on this line; 
and at its head is the town of that name, appropriately named ' ' The 
Saratoga of the AVest." The Chicago and North-AA^estern Railway each 
year places on sale excursion -tickets at cheap rates to all of its summer 
resorts in the North-west, and to Denver and other points in Colorado. 



320 POPULAR EESORTS, AND HOW TO BEACH THEM. 



PLEASURE ROUTE No. 29. 

The Chicago and North-'Western Railroad: its Branches 
and Connections. 

THE GREAT NORTH-WEST. 

To the majority of the citizens of the West, the Chicago and North- 
Western Railway is well known ; not so, however, to those in many parts 
of our extended country. 

Operating over two thousand miles of the best road in the world, 
and running through five great States, with numerous branches, it is 
not to be expected that the traveller from the South or the East could, 
unaided, understand the vast system of lines owned and operated by 
this company. 

Summering.* — "Not more regularly does the warm season recur, 
than does the desire, begotten of it, to get away from home ; to throw 
every thing aside, if only for a day or two, and go away somewhere. 
And what a blessed comfort it is to shake off the dust of the city, to 
leave behind and forget its hot j-javements and dusty walls, and hurry 
■off to some cool, leafy nook nestling far away among the mountains; 
or on the shore of some one of the many inland lakes which, like jewels, 
bestud our northern landscape ! With the warm breezes wafted by the 
opening summer's days there comes an inward longing to be off, a desire 
for a change of scene, — a yearning for that abandon which can only be 
found in nature's more secluded haunts." 

As we have seen, the great North- AVest is rich in lovely retreats. 

Wisconsin. — " The ' Badger State ' is yearly becoming more widely 
and more favorably known to the summer tourist, and to the seeker after 
rural pleasures. While comparatively a new State, it is yet old in many 
respects. As long ago as the middle of the seventeenth century, it was 
visited by French missionaries and traders, who took home with them 
glowing accounts of the fertility of its soil, the splendor of its scenerj'-, 
the freshness of its odorous pine-clad hills, its flashing, rapid running 
streams, full of fish, its clear, deep, cold, pure, and beautiful lakes, of 
which the State has many hundreds, and its delightful, balmy, and- invig- 
orating summer climate. The stories of these advantages were not lost 
•on the beauty-loving French, and soon colonies were formed for the set- 
tlement of this charming ' Neekoospara,' as they had learned from the 

* The following matter has, by pennission, been collated largely from several small guide- 
books of the North- West. It is intended to give special attention to this region before 
the issue of 1876. 



POPUr-AR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 321 

Indians to call the country we have since named Wisconsin. It may 
rightly then, be inferred that the French were the first whites to make 
homes along the bays, lakes, and rivers of this well favored land. 

" Distributed, if we may so speak, all over the State, can be found 
objects of interest to the lovel- of the picturesque and to the antiquary. 
Scattered over her undulating plains are found earthworks modelled 
after the forms of men and animals : these are evidently the work of a 
race different from those who possessed the country at the period of the 
arrival of the French. At Aztalun, in Jefferson County, is an ancient 
fortification, seventeen hundred feet long and nine hundred feet wide, 
with walls five to six feet high and more than twenty feet thick; this, 
with another near the Blue Mounds, near Madison, resembles a man in a 
recumbent position. Another, near Madison, in Dane County, resembles 
a turtle ; one at the south end of the Devil's Lake, in Sauk County, closely 
resembles an eagle ; and one near Cassville, in Grant County, on the Mis- 
sissippi River, resembles the extinct mastodon. The Blue Mounds, in 
Dane County, rise to two thousand feet above the surrounding countiy, 
and are prominent landmarks in that prairie region. This State shares 
with Minnesota the beautiful Lake Pepin, an expansion of the Missis- 
sippi River, mostly walled in by precipitous shores which rise in places 
to five hundred feet. Connected with almost every cliff or promontory 
along the shores of this beautiful lake, are legends of the Indians who 
formerly had homes here. Along the rivers of this State are found 
many waterfalls, rivalling in beauty those of older States. In the St. 
Louis River are the Dalles, which have a descent of three hundred and 
twenty feet. The Dalles of the St. Ci'oix are also well known. Quin- 
nessec Falls, in Menomonee River, have a perpendicular pitch of over 
fifty feet, and a general descent of one hundred and fifty feet in a mile 
and a half, besides many other rapids, where the river tosses and dashes 
through narrow and tortuous defiles. The Chippewa Falls and the Big 
Bull Falls might also be noted. Along the Wisconsin River are many 
grand and picturesque views; in Richmond County the banks of the 
river rise to a height of two hundred to two hundred and fifty feet, and 
in Sauk County it passes through narrow gorges where the banks rise to 
five hundred to six hundred feet elevation. Grandfather Bull Falls, the 
greatest rapids of the Wisconsin River, are in 45° north latitude, and 
are a series of wild cascades dashing through a gorge a mile and a 
half long and one hundred and fifty feet perpendicular height ; on the 
same river, near latitude 44°, is Petenwell Peak, an oval mass of rock, 
nine hundred feet long by three hundred wide and two hundred high, 
and from which commanding views can be obtained. About seventy 
feet of the upper portion of this rock is cut and split into fantastic 
shapes, many of the fragments resembling castles, towers, and turrets. 



322 POPtfLAR EESOBTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

A few miles distant is Fortification Rock, which rises perpendicularly- 
several hundred feet. At the Dalles this river is compressed for five 
or six miles between red sandstone cliffs, averaging over one hundred 
feet in height ; while in places the river is compressed to a width of fifty- 
five feet. 

" The principal lakes are Lake Winnebago, — in the south-eastern portion 
of the State. This lake is about thirty miles long and ten miles wide, and 
communicates with Green Bay (an arm of Lake Michigan) through Fox 
or Neenah River, — Horicon Lake, Devil's Lake, Lake Koshkonong, Lake 
Geneva, Lake Zurich, and the four lakes around Madison ; these are the 
larger of this lake-studded State. Along all the rivers, and at their 
"heads," hundreds of little lakelets are found, like gems glittering in the 
sunshine. 

" "Waukegan, HI., is the county seat of the county of Lake, so called 
because of the fifty-six beautiful lakes within its boundaries. The city 
has between seven and eight thousand inhabitants ; is situated on a bluff 
on the western shore of Lake Michigan, which it overlooks. The town 
proper stands about one hundred feet above the lake, and in point of 
attractiveness as a summer resort stands unrivalled in all the West- 
ern States. Its acknowledged beauty, fine drives, society, schools, pic- 
turesque scenery, ravines, brooks, and general loveliness, fashioned by 
Nature's own hands, aided by cultivated taste, combine to make it a 
place which will be sought for by the thousands of private families 
who yearly, more and more, seek to avoid the heat, dust, and noise 
of a busy metropolis, for the health-giving quiet and retirement of the 
country. 

"The Glen Flora Mineral Springs. — The waters which have 
been for perhaps untold ages gurgling from their cool, rocky depths, 
and flowing in miniature rivulets into Lake Michigan, have this year 
been proven beyond question, by scientific analysis, to be of the most 
valuable medicinal character. 

" The Glen Flora Springs are easy of access, being located on the 
line of the Milwaukee Division of the Chicago and North- Western Rail- 
way. About sixteen trains pass and repass between the cities of Chicago 
and Milwaukee daily. The railroad station. ' Glen Flora,' is only about 
one-quarter of a mile from the Springs, which are reached by a newly 
graded road, leading up the bluff in close proximity to them. The loca- 
tion, for picturesque beauty and romantic surroundings, is unsurpassed 
in this country. They are nestled in a beautiful ravine or glen, origi- 
nally named ' Floral Glen,' because of the remarkable profusion of wild 
flowers which grow and thrive spontaneously from end to end of its 
labyrinthian traceries. 



POPULAB RESOUTS, AND HOW TO KEACII TIIE.M. 323 

" Milwaukee. — Cities, says an eminent writer, have always been 
the fire-places of civilization, whence light and heat radiate out into the 
dark, cold world ; and the union of men in large masses is indispensable 
to their develoiiment and growth. 

" Fifty years ago, and all there then was of the now prosperous and 
beautiful city of Milwaukee — lowland, shore, and forest — was in the 
undisputed possession of the Indian. 

"The first white man to invade this beautiful retreat was Solomon 
Juneau. He came here in the autumn of 1818, and built him a log- 
cabin, which gradually assumed the distinctive features of a store, in 
which he kept a few goods suitable for barter. For seventeen years he 
was not only the only merchant in the place, but the only white settler. 
A few Indian traders occasionally came, but none made a permanent 
location. 

" Milwaukee is now the commercial emporium of the State of Wiscon- 
sin and one of the most important cities, in many respects, in the North- 
West. It has a population of about a hundred thousand; and is built 
largely of the famous cream-colored Milwaukee brick, which are produced 
here in large quantities. The situation of the city on Lake Michigan 
shore, at the mouth of Milwaukee River, is very pleasant, healthful, and 
attractive. The river furnishes one of the best and most commodious 
bays and harbors on the lakes." 

Tourists will find at the Newhall House and Plankinton House, first- 
class accommodations. 

Lake Dells is a popular resort in the suburbs, with a fine water view, 
which is receiving considerable attention. 

" During a few years past numbers of residences and cottages have 
been built upon the summit of the bluff, or on the plateau beneath, 
and many more are planned for the coming season. 

" During the late summer and early fall months the temperature of 
the water is delightful for bathing, averaging in the shallow bay off 
Lake Dells, by actual test and record, sixty-eight to seventy degrees. 

" Sheboygan, Wis., the county seat of Sheboygan County, is 
a thriving manufacturing city of about seven thousand inhabitants. 
It is the eastern terminus of the Sheboygan and Fond du Lac Railway, 
and is the most important station on the line of the Milwaukee, Lake 
Shore, and Western Railway north of Milwaukee. The former of 
these roads makes close connections with the Wisconsin Division of the 
Chicago and Xorth-Western Railway at Fond du Lac, and the latter is 
practically an extension of the Milwaukee Division of the Chicago and 
North- Western Railway. 

" Sheboygan is one of the most delightful summer resorts in the West. 
It has a commanding location on a bluff' overlooking Lake Michigan. The 



324 POPULAR KESOETS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

river affords unsurpassed opportunities for rowing, while the lake is a 
favorite resort for those who enjoy sailing. Pleasure boats of all kinds 
may be had here. The fishing is good ; the fisheries off Sheboygan are 
among the most important on Lake Michigan, and a summer day can 
hardly be more pleasantly spent than in visiting them in one of the steam 
fishing-smacks. The drives in the vicinity of the city are fine. This is 
especially true of the excursion up the river five miles, to the charming 
village of Sheboygan Falls. But, after all, the chief attractions which 
Sheboygan holds out to the summer tourist are the healthfulness and 
coolness of its climate. Lying, -as it does, ten miles out in the lake, it is 
fanned by deliciously cool and invigorating lake breezes fi"om the north, 
east and south, and consequently, the intensely hot weather that gen- 
erally prevails in the interior during the summer months is unknown 
here. The Beekman House will furnish a good home to visitors. 

" From Sheboygan, the popular summer resorts along the line of the 
Sheboygan and Fond du Lac Railway may be easily reached. It is only 
an hour's ride from Sheboygan to beautiful Elkhart Lake, a three hours' 
ride to the famous Mineral Springs at Fond du Lac ; and a five hours' 
ride to that gem of Wisconsin scenery. Green Lake. 

"Wisconsin is famous for her beautiful lakes, the annual resort of 
thousands of people in quest of health and pleasure. Among the love- 
liest of these is Lake Elkhart, acknowledged to be one of the most 
healthful places in the West. It is fifty-seven miles north of Mil- 
waukee, and can be reached by the Chicago and North-Western Rail- 
way and its immediate connection, the Sheboygan and Fond du Lac 
Railway. The station, Glenbeulah, is three miles from the Lake. Omni- 
buses run to the hotels from all the trains arriving at this station. 

" Cincinnati, Louisville, St Louis, Indianapolis, Chicago, and Milwau- 
kee are largely rej^resented at Elkhart. Instead of going to some 
'fashionable' watering-place, where dress, flirtation, and the usual con- 
sequences of folly, prevail, our Western people wisely prefer these 
secluded spots, where Nature is so profuse of her charms. 

" Elkhart Lake covers about eight hundred acres, and is pleasingly 
diversified by bays, which coquettishly wind around jutting bluffs, 
beneath whose shades the crystal w^ater slumbers, so pure and clear that 
the white sand and gravel of the lake bottom can be plainly seen at a 
depth of twenty to twenty-five feet. As viewed from the elevated 
veranda of MarsWs Swiss Cottage, the scene is beautiful beyond descrip- 
tion. The surrounding hills are verdant with pine, spruce, maple, bass- 
wood, and red and white cedar ; while wheat fields, seen through forest 
vistas, afford to the eye, as it feascs upon the varying charms, a most 
pleasing variety. 

" A steamboat and barge, sail and row boats, will run in connection 



POPULAR RESOKTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 325 

with the trains of the Sheboygan and Fond du Lac Railroad, and convey 
l^assengers to any part of the lake desired. 

*' Fond du Lac. — Passengers desirous of reaching Fond du Lac, or 
any point north thereof, can go via Milwaukee, or via Janesville and the 
Wisconsin Division. 

" This is called the ' second city of the State.' It lies in one of the 
richest agricultural districts in the West, seventy miles from Madison, 
sixty-three miles from Milwaukee, forty miles from Sheboygan, sixty miles 
from Green Bay, and one hundred and forty-eight miles from Chicago, — 
directly connected with all of the above-named cities by railroads ; in 
short, the railroad facilities for coming to Fond du Lac are equal to those 
of any other interior city in the Union, as they radiate from the city at 
nearly all points of the compass. It is rich in manufacturing resources, 
and in wealth and population is second only to jNIilwaukee among all the 
cities of W^isconsin. Fond du Lac is blessed with enterprising, liberal- 
minded manufacturers and business men. 

'* Fountain Mineral Spring, in the neighborhood, has gained great 
celebrity for the many cures its waters have performed. 

" Several yacht clubs navigate Lake Winneha(jo in elegant rakish craft, 
for prizes in sportive contests. Steamboats, with pleasure parties, often 
make excursions around the lake, which is thirty miles long by ten 
broad — whose borders furnish beautiful landscape views, and the 
most gorgeous scenery. Besides, Fond du Lac is surrounded with other 
pleasant places of resort. Lake de Neveu, a beautiful sheet of 
water, is romantically situated, about three miles south-east of the city. 
Eastward is Elkhart Lake, already famous for its natural beauties; and 
westward lies Green Lake, a noted summer resort. On all these lakes 
are pleasure boats propelled by steam, wind, and man power. Their 
waters furnish a plentiful and various supply of fresh-water fish, where 
piscatorially inclined ladies and gentlemen can enjoy plenty of amuse- 
ment in that line. 

Parties visiting Fond du Lac on pleasure bound, or for the purpose of 
being restored to health, will find hotel accommodations of every variety 
and grade, — some elegantly fitted and furnished, rivalling the best 
iiouses in the country. There are also a number of private boarding- 
houses, some in the immediate vicinity of the Magrietic Springs, whei? 
board may be obtained at reasonable rates. 

Although we do not usually recommend cities as popular resorts, still 
there will be found at Fond du Lac much to interest the tourist, both in 
the town aiid its vicinity. The drives are interesting, and the roads 
good, which, combined with the other attractions named, entitle thi.o- 
resort to the favorable reputation it has won. 



326 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

" Green Lake (Dartford P.O.), Wis., is the name of a village situated 
on the banks of Green Lake, Wisconsin : is a station on the Sheboygan 
and Fond du Lac Railroad, and is accessible by the Chicago and North- 
AVestern and the Sheboygan and Fond du Lac Railways. The public 
houses are first-class, and pleasant boarding places are readily obtained 
at the farm-houses in the vicinity. 

" The natural scenery around Dartford is unrivalled in variety and 
beauty. Groves of primeval grandeur, far-stretching prairies, and exten- 
sive lake views, greet the eye from every point. The grounds around the 
lake have been terraced, furnished with swmgs, promenades, and other- 
wise ornamented, to render them pleasant and attractive. The lake 
averages a length of fifteen miles, and a width of three miles. Its banks 
vary from beautiful grassy slopes to higli rocky cliffs, bordered with 
evergreens, presenting the greatest diversity of physical character, and 
affording unlimited natural advantages for pleasing and romantic ram- 
bles. Its waters are very pure, and so transparent that their pebbly bed 
may be seen at a depth of from twenty to thirty-five feet. A great 
variety and abundance of the finny tribe inhabit this beautiful sheet of 
water ; and good fishing-boats and tackle for lovers of sport, and excellent 
sail-boats for seekers of pleasure, are furnished for the accommodation 
of Adsitors. 

" The Oak-wood is the name of a hotel situated on the banks of Green 
Lake. The location of this much-sought summer resort and delightful 
watering-place is only one mile from Green Lake Station and depot. 
Omnibus and carriages await the arrival of all trains. The S/ierwood 
Forest House, and Wal/:er House also furnish first class accommodations. 

"McHenry, 111,, is situated on the Fox River, only sixty miles 
from Chicago, via the Chicago and Xorth-Western Railway. It has 
about fifteen hundred inhabitants. About six miles north, by a pleasure 
steamboat, we come to a chain of four lakes, unsurpassed anywhere in 
the West for their beautiful scenery. They are skirted on all sides by 
miniature mountains, little islands dot the surface from one end to the 
other, varying in size from two to sixty acres each. These lakes are all 
deep, and abound in fish. 

" Lake Zurich is named after one of the most splendid lakes in 
Switzerland; and when once seen, and its scenery and loveliness enjoyed, 
no one would for a moment think that he who named it was guilty of 
any presumption in the christening. This jilace is situated on the edge 
of Lake County, four miles north by east from Barrinf/ton Station, on the 
Wisconsin Division of the Chicago and Xorth-Western Railway. An 
omnibus is in waiting on the ai'rival of trains, to convey passengers to 
the Lake Zurich House. The road runs through a splendid farming 
comitry, teeming with all the exuberant richness of a bounteous soil, 




prffiiSiiiiiiiiiffliiM 



jiiMl£:iSS!i2;iiLi 



328 POPULAK KESOKTS, Al<fB HOW TO KEACH THEM. 

alternating with woodland and prairie, hills and valleys, fields of waving 
grain, and farmhouses embowered in shrubbery, — making one of the 
finest landscapes in this region. 

"Oshkosh as a summer resort and watering-place possessed a rare 
combination of natural features for a delightful summer residence before 
the late fire, by which it suffered fearfully. The climate is not sur- 
passed in healthf ulness ; the air is pure and dry ; and the invigorating 
breezes from the lake temper the heats of summer. The scenery is 
lovely ; the lake a most magnificent sheet of water with beautiful shores 
and good harbors that are accessible in every direction, thus affording 
the best of yachting facilities. The surrounding country is beautiful, 
with excellent roads, affording delightful drives, and picturesque views 
of lake and river scenery. Wild game is abundant in the vicinity, blue 
and green winged teal, mallard and wood duck, snipe, woodcock, quail, 
and prairie chickens. The waters abound in black and white bass and 
other fish, and brook trout are plentiful in streams within a day's travel." 

Lake Winnebago is really the special attraction. Fox River is a beau- 
tiful stream, both before it enters Winnebago at Oshkosh, and after 
it leaves it at Menasha, from which place to Green Bay it is a series of 
rapids falling a hundred and seventy-five feet, which are overcome by 
locks and dams. 

The Seymour House of this place has long been noted for its homelike 
accommodations, and is much frequented by visitors. 

"Menasha, being situated at the foot of Lake Winnebago and Lake 
Buttes des Morts, and embracing part of Doty's Island, furnishes jiictur- 
esque and entertaining scenery, unsurpassed by any Western town. 

" The climate is salubrious, and no place on the continent is freer from 
epidemics. The air is mild and bracing, and yields a vigor and endur- 
ance to the system that is above all j^rice. 

" Lake Whinebar/o provides boating, sailing, and bathing facilities. 
Steamboats ply on its limpid waters, and sailing vessels can always be 
had, furnishing ample means for pleasure excursions. Rowboats are 
kept in connection with the National Hotel, always at the service of 
guests, furnishing a most agreeable and healthful exercise, on the ever 
placid waters of Fox River and adjacent bays of the lake. In connec- 
tion with other sports, fish and game are plenty, and the sportsman need 
have no lack of pleasurable novelties. 

" The city of Neenah is located in the county of Winnebago, and most, 
romantically and beautifully situated on the Fox River, at the outlet of 
Lake Winnebago, and on the line of the Chicago and North- Western 
Railway. The present population is over four thousand. 

" Pe"waukee, Wis. — Among the many points of attraction within 
the borders of our already famous and justly celebrated country, Pewau- 



POPULAR KESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 329 

kee holds a fair share of possessions, and in some considerations is 
superior to any other. Located nineteen miles west of Milwaukee, and 
situated at the foot of Pewaukee Lake, which everybody concedes to be 
the gem of all others. 

" Oakton Springs are situated in a beautiful grove on the south 
side of Pewaukee Lake, which is five miles long fi'om east to west, and 
from half a mile to one and a half in width, with an average depth of 
fifty feet, and two hundred and sixty-three feet above the level of Lake 
Michigan. Oaklon Springs Hotel is in every way attractive, and affords, 
every desired convenience. 

" Geneva Lake, Wis., is reached from Chicago vici the Chicago and 
North-Western Railway, by the AVisconsin Division and Crystal Lake, 
and i-iu the Freeport and Fox River lines 17a Elgin. Through trains 
run by both these routes. 

" Geneva has but recently been reached by the railroad, and has si^rung 
at once into notice as a delightful place for summer resort. The village 
is situated at the foot of the lake. It has three hotels, all well kept. 

" Hills, retaining a portion of their native forest, surround the village 
on three sides ; and from its centre spreads out towards the south a. 
charming bay nearly a mile in width, with high and wooded banks. 
Beyond the points which bound it, are seen the main lake and the south- 
ern shore about three miles away. Bending to the right, it extends, 
south-vvestwardly some eight or nine miles, its width varying from half a. 
mile to two miles at different points. Its banks are high and wooded,, 
especially near its head, where they rise to bold bluffs. The water is. 
principally derived from springs, and is pure and clear as crystal. The 
scenery of this lake can scarcely be suq^assed for picturesqueness and 
beauty. 

" The lake abounds in fish, such as pickerel, black and rock bass, perch,, 
sun-fish, &c. Como Late and other smaller lakes, also full of fish, may 
be easily reached from the village. Small boats in great numbers are 
kept here for hire, and yachts and other sailboats constantly utilize the 
summer breezes. A nicely finished and well-conducted steamboat, capa- 
ble of accommodating three or four hundred passengers, was put upon 
the lake in 1873, and added much to its attractions. 

"Mineral Springs of Palmyra, Wis. — There are two groups of 
springs at this place, differing somewhat in their chemical properties,, 
and both claiming their special devotees. Several are chalybeate, while 
others are strongly impregnated with the different chlorides, bicarbonates,, 
and sulphates. 

" Submerged Spring. — Here is found one of the most notable of 
all objects of interest yet discovered in this region, which excites unceas- 
ing wonder. Imagine an expanse of w^ater covering an area of one- 



330 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

iotirth of an acre, and from one to two feet in depth. Rowing out a few 
yards, you find yourself suddenly looking down into a cave twenty-five 
feet in length and twelve across, the sides perpendicular, and covered 
with verdant foliage. The color of the water next attracts your atten- 
tion, which appears of the most delicate opaline tints. At the bottom of 
iihe cave, fifteen feet below the surface, the fine white sand boils and 
"bubbles imceasingly, like a seething mammoth caldron ; and here is thii 
source of the spring. Its finny inhabitants seem suspended in air. 

" Green Bay is on the east bank of Fox Ricer, one mile from where it 
empties into the bay from which the town of Green Bay takes its name. 
A fine bridge connects it with Fort Howard. The bay and river afford 
-a perfectly secure harboi', and make this the principal shipping point for 
Northern "Wisconsin. The climate is mild and exhilarating in summer. 
The cool nights cause mosquitoes to give the place a wide berth. There 
is excellent fishing in the bay and river, and every facility for boating. 
At this point the river is a quarter of a mile broad. The bay is dotted 
with little islands covered with forests, and admirablj^ adapted for picnic 
and pleasure parties. The adjacent woods are filled Avith partridge, wood- 
•cock, pigeon, and deer in their season, while the bay and river abound 
in the water-fowl peculiar to this northern latitude. Neighboring streams 
are stocked with speckled trout, and the tributaries of the bay furnish 
excellent bass fishing. The place is the most notable in the State for the 
gayety of its people and select parties. Small steamers, yachts, and boats 
of all kinds, are to be had for trips on the river and bay. The place is a 
favorite summer resort for parties from Chicago, St. Louis, the South, 
and East. The best hotels are the First National Hotel and Beaumont. 

"Pensaukee is situated on the west shore of Green Bay. twenty-five 
miles north of Green Bay Cit}^ and five miles south of Oconto City, on the 
line of the Chicago and North-Western Railway. As a resort for pleas- 
Tire-seekers and sportsmen it cannot be excelled by any point in Northern 
Wisconsin. In June and July the streams abound with trout, and Green 
Eay affords better bass fishing than any point on the entire chain of 
lakes. In September,, October, and November, there is an abundance of 
•deer, duck, and snipe, in the immediate vicinity of the Pensaukee Home. 

"Escanaba is one of the pleasantest summer resorts there is in tho 
West. The water of the bay, clear as crystal, washes the streets of 
the city on two sides, while the Escanaba River forms the third, and the 
aromatic ' Piney Woods ' close well down on the other side. The Tiklen 
House offers quiet and comfortable quarters for tourists who may wish to 
-spend days or weeks here fishing, boating, or bathing. White Fish Bay 
in this vicinity offers rare sport for the fishermen ; and every little stream, 
-and they are numerous, is almost alive with the ever beautiful spotted 
brook trout. From Escanaba excursions are fitted out in various 



POl'ULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 331 

directions. Those not caring for fishing can take to the ' woods,' and 
find bear and deer in abundance, to say nothing of ducks, geese, brants, 
partridges, and smaller feathered game. 

"Marquette, situated on the south sliore of Lake Superior, at the 
eastern terminus of the Marquette, Houghton, and Ontonagon Railroad, 
is the centre of the great iron region of Lake Superior. The principal 
business interest is that of mining. It is well supplied with excellent 
hotels and large summer boarding-houses. 

" On the bay you have unequalled facilities for boating, and its waters 
are filled with (jamey fish which seem eager to reward the angler, as they 
are caught in great abundance with but little labor. A few miles out in 
the bay are several large islands covered with virgin forests. These 
islands are favorite resorts for picnic parties, who reach them by sail- 
boats, by steamer, or by small row-boats, of which any number iiuiy be 
hired in Marquette at any time. 

" For the invalid, or for the resident of our Southern States, Marquette 
offers many inducements as a summer resort. Its air is pure and clear, 
its days not hot, its nights pleasantly cool and yet not too cold, and 
its healthfulness unquestioned. 

"From INIarquette you can take steamer for Hancock and Houghton on 
the Kewenaw peninsula, or for Sault St. INIary, for Isle Royal, St. Ignace 
Island, Fort William, or any point on the north shore of Lake Superior. 
On that shore you will find Nature in all her wildness. The white man's 
arts and ways have not yet penetrated its wilds, and the Indian with his 
peculiarities can be found without seeking far. This Indian is not the 
savage of the plains or mountains, but he who has been tamed by the 
kindly teachings of the patient Catholic missionary, who has been a 
dweller in the tents of the uncultured child of the forest for generations, 
and who has lived there really and truly for the Indian's good, and not 
for the white man's aggrandizement, as is too often the case with the 
so-called friend of the Indian. Xo finer trout fishing is to be had any- 
where on the broad earth than can be found on the north shore of this 
great inland ocean. Speckh'd trout, uv'i)/hiiif/ from Jiv» to tirelre ]>ounils. are 
often caught by the few adventurous spirits who have for several years 
sought these favored shores. The rivers Xipif/on and Michapacnton are 
the best known of the trout streams of the north shore. Guides to these 
streams can be easily hired at Marquette, and fishing parties can be fitted 
out with little expense or labor. And here we might drop a hint that 
may be useful to the stranger : take an Indian for your guide if you go 
to the north shore to fish ; see that you get one who does not love "fire- 
water," and one that is not afraid of work. Plenty of lazy white men 
will tender their services, and boast of their knowledge and skill, but 
touch them not. They are utt^^rly worthless, either in your boat or out 
of it. 



332 POPULAE KESOPvTS, AXD IIOIV TO REACH THEM. 

MARQUETTE TO DULUTH, VIA THE NEW LIXE OF SIDEWHEEL STEAMERS. 

" These elegant boats leave Marquette in the morning, and pass by the 
Huron Islands, Manitou Island, around Kewenaw Point, past Fort AVil- 
liam, Eagle Harbor, Eagle River, Ontonagon, the Pewabic Copper JMines, 
Copper Harbor, Ashland, Bayfield, and so up to Fond du Lac and Duluth. 
We have an attractive trip on magnificent boats over the largest lake in 
the world. Lake Superior is noted for its clear, cold water (it being so 
clear that from the deck of the steamer you can plainly see the great 
lake trout playing in the water forty feet below the surface) ; you pass 
within sight of the shores of the lake, which are in many places moun- 
tainous, and clothed in the verdure of the pine, hemlock, spruce, fir, and 
other evergreen trees. A more delightful trip for the hot days of sum- 
mer cannot be had within the bounds of the American Continent. The 
steamers are large, stanch, finely equi^^ped, and commanded by officers 
whose superiors in courtesy and kindness cannot be found anywhere. 

CHICAGO AXD ST. PAUL LINE. 

" This is a through line between Chicago and St. Paul of 409 miles, and 
Chic;ii;o ;aid jlinneapolis and St. Anthony of 420 miles. One manayement 
controls the route, and trains run through to St. Paul loithout change of cars, 

" Leaving the Canal and Kinzie Streets Depot of the Chicago and North- 
Western Railway, you pass through many pleasant villages, such as 
Irving Park, Desplaines, Barrington, Crystal Lake, and Woodstock, and 
reach Harvard, sixty-two miles from Chicago, where you cross the 
track of the Kenosha and Rockford Division of this company's lines. 
At Caledonia, seventy-seven miles out, you cross another branch of 
this road. At Beloit, ninety-three miles from Chicago, you cross the 
Western L'nion Railroad, and enter the State of Wisconsin. At Han- 
over, one hundred and six miles from Chicago, you cross the Monroe 
Branch of the Milwaukee and St. Paul Road, running from this point 
to Monroe, twenty-seven miles distant. 

" At Madison you are 140 miles from Chicago, and at the capital of 
AVisconsiii, a city of over fifteen thousand people. 

" The city is pleasantly situ.ated on an isthmus about three-fourths of a 
mile wide, between Lakes Mendota and ]\Ionona, in the centre of a broad 
valley, surrounded by heights from which it can be seen at a distance of 
several miles. Lake Mendota lies north-west of the town, is six miles 
long and four miles wide, with clean gravelly shores, and a depth suffi- 
cient for navigation by steamboats. Lake Monona is somewhat smaller. 

" At this point you reach a branch of the Milwaukee and St. Paul Rail- 
road, which runs northward to Portage City. 

" The City of Madison. — A great many efforts have been made to 
depict the beauties of the location, but no words can convey an adequate 



POPULAR RESORTS, AXD HOW TO REACH THEM. 333 

idea of what is, indeed, indescribable. The reason of this is, that every 
new point of observation creates a shifting- panorama, — that no two 
exhibit the same scenery. From any considerable elevation, a circuit of 
nearly thirty miles in every direction is visible. Four lakes lie embosomed 
like gems, shining in the midst of groves of forest trees; while the gentle 
swells of the prairies, dotted over by fields and farms, lend a charm to 
the view which words cannot depict. On the west, the lofty peak of the 
West Blue Mound, twenty-five miles away, towers uj) against tlie sky, 
like a grim sentinel guarding the gateway to the setting sun, while the 
intermediate setting is filled in with swelling hills, majestic slopes, levels, 
and valleys of rivers and rivulets. IMadison is the centre of a circle 
whose natural beauties compass all that is charming to the eye, grateful 
to the senses, j^leasing to the imagination, and which, from its variety 
and perfection, never grows tedious or tiresome to tlie spectator. With 
good taste the citizens have preserved the native forest trees, so that 
its dwellings are embowered in green and buried in foliage in the projjer 
season, to such an extent that the whole city cannot be seen from any point 
of view. It is in itself unique, like its surroundings, and the ti-ansient 
traveller gains no conception of the place by barely passing tlirough it. 

" Devil's Lake is prominent among the summer resorts of the North- 
west, thirty-six miles north of Madison, and one hundred and seventy- 
six miles from Chicago, on the Madison Division of the Chicago and 
North-Western Railway. 

" The bluffs of the AVisconsin, at the j^oint where the Barahoo Bh-er 
embouches into the valley, are six hundred feet in height. In the midst 
of tliis enormous rocky stratum is a deep fissure, or gorge, depressed over 
four hundred feet from the surface, hemmed in by mighty 2">J'ecipices, 
which constitute the basin of a body of water about a mile and a half 
ill length by a half a mile in breadth, known as the Devil's Lake. The 
level of the waters is one hundred and ninety feet above the "Wisconsin 
i-iver, and it is supposed that the bottom reaches below that of the i-iver. 
A two-hours' ride on the cars from ]\Iadison will land tlie visitor directly 
upon the shore. 

" The lake is one of the most wonderful and romantic spots in existence; 
and it has an abiding attraction for tourists, who return to it again and 
again to admire and enjoy it, to wonder at it, and to puzzle over it. 
Here, ages ago, probably some terrible intei-nal convulsion i-ent the 
earth's surface, and piled various strata of rock, of immense size, from 
three hundred to six hundred feet high, and disjiosed it in every con- 
ceivable fantastic form. Within the basin thus made lies nestled a 
l)eantiful, placid lake of clear, pure water, which reflects on its mirror- 
like surface the rugged and awe-inspiring barriers whicli environ it. It 
has no visible inlet or outlet, but abounds in fish. This marvellous place 



334 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO EEAjCK TTTRlVf, 

has attracted the attention of geologists and scientific men for many- 
years; and various theories exist regarding its formation, but not one 
which has met with general acceptance, or which appears to satisfactorily 
explain it. Increasing numbers of tourists include it in their round now 
that it has become so easily accessible by rail. 

' ' On every side of the lake you see ' rock piled on rock ' in every con- 
ceivable form, and in immense colunms, piUars, piles, and masses of very 
great magnitude and height. The railroad runs along the shore of the 
lake on a bed that was literally blasted out of the sides of the mountain. 
From the car windows all the beauties of this wonderful and weirdly 
mysterious region can readily be seen. 

" Minnesota.— This picturesque State lies between 43° and 49° north 
latitude and 89° and 97° west longitude, and is about 380 miles long by 
300 miles wide. The surface of the country is undulating. It has no 
mountains, yet it is the most elevated tract of country between Hudson's 
Bay on the north and Xew Orleans on the south. The soil varies very- 
much ; in the valleys it is excellent, and especially so in the valley of 
the St. Peter. Above the Falls of St. Anthony the soil is of ' drift ' 
formation. 

"Minnesota has so long been celebrated for its dry, healthful, and 
invigorating climate, and has been so well brought to the notice of 
health and pleasure seekers, that it is useless for us to take up your time 
with any lengthy description of the State, its cities, or in fact, any thing 
relating thereto: we feel sure that all you need to know is where to go, 
and how to get there, and your own good judgment or choice will supply 
the rest. 

" St. Paid is the largest city in the State, and is the place to go to 
firfit ; from that point you can reach all other summer resorts in the State. 
This city is weU supplied with good hotels and first-class boarding 
houses, in which the summer visitor can find aU the comforts and accom- 
modations he may wish. The charges for board are reasonable. 

" From St. Paul you can, in one hour or less, reach Minneapolis 
and St. Anthony, by the St. Paul and Pacific Railroad. Several 
trains are run each day between these points and St. Paul. Around 
St. Paid, and within easy carriage-driving distance, you will find the 
Falls of St. Anthony, Minnehaha Falls, Carver's Cave, Fountain Cave, 
AVhite Bear Lake, the Bridal Veil Falls, Lake Como, Fort Snelhng, the 
Fawn's Leap, and so on. A short distance farther off, but within easy 
access from the city are the beautiful Lakes Harriet and Calhoun, Lake 
Minnetonka, Cedar Lake, the Lake of the Isles, Twin Lakes, Crystal 
Lake, and many others ' too niimerous to mention.' Each has beauties 
peculiarly its own. All are full of fine fish ; and boats can be had for 



POPULAR RESORTS, ANB HOW TO REACH THEM. 335 

fishing or sailing at any time during the season. On the shores of most 
of these lakes are hotels specially fitted up for summer visitors ; and 
around all the lakes are fine farms, in the homes of which you are 
always welcome, and where you can board for the summer, or for a few 
days or a few weeks, at nearly nominal rates. 

" For those who leave home for a summer of dissipation, of balls and 
parties, and late hours and fashion's show, with all of its accompanying 
frivolity and worthlessness, this is not the place to find them ; and, seek 
them as you may, you cannot find them here. It is the place, however, 
for those who want to enjoy themselves, to rest, to gain health and 
strength and relaxation, and to fit themselves for their busy lives at 
their homes during the balance of the year." 

Tlie Sparta Mineral Well is one of the attractions of this vicinity, 
located near the village of Sj^arta, Minn. 

" Wabash is situated on the Mississippi River, at the foot of Lakft 
Pepin, nearly opposite the mouth of the Chippewa River. 

As a point where the invalid, and the wearied and worn man of busi- 
ness, can I'est free from the bustle and cares of life, and recuperate thei 
depleted bodies, no better point can be found. 

" To the tourist, the man of pleasure, and the sportsman, rare enjoy^ 
ments are presented, and no place in the North-West offers as great a 
variety. 

" To the angler it is his Eldorado. Hundreds of spring brooks, tributa- 
ries of the Chippewa, O'Buf, and Tombia Rivers, which empty into the 
Mississippi near the city of Wabasha, are well stored with that sure 
sporting fish, the sjjeckled trout. 

" For larger and more exciting prey, the angler must resort to the Mis- 
sissippi, where will be found the black, white, and striped bass, weigh- 
ing from four to ten pounds, which congregate in innumerable numbers, 
at the foot of Lake Pepin, just where the waters of that lake fall into 
the river proper, making it the most superb trolling grounds in tlie world 
for this noble fish. Pike and pickerel abound in the Mississippi in large 
numbers, and are taken, weighing from five to forty pounds. This excit- 
ing sport can be enjoyed by ladies and children, within the city, in perfect 
safety. 

" For the sportsman who follows his dog, and carries his breech-loader, 
his rapacity here can be glutted ; for this is the home of the prairie 
chicken, the ruffled and pinnated grouse, the woodcock, the quail, and the 
innumerable family of duck and goose tribe, together with that noble 
game, the elk, the deer, and the bear; all of which are easy of access by 
water or land. The visitors at all times can find guides among the 
remnants of the Indians and their relations, to conduct them to the most 
certain spots for good sport. 



■>l;Ui porri.AK KKsoHTs, AN'n lunv to kkaou tiiem. 

•'Ascending tho bluffs back of tlio city, a lovoliiu'ss aiul orandour of 
scoiio is spvt'atl out beforo the eye, stivtoliing- far away ovor Lake IVpin, 
tlio IKnioon of the West, aud far up tho groat valloy of the Chippewa 
Kiver, giving you an isonietrio view rivalling the far-fanuHi Yo Semite 
^■alley. whieh is awaiting the peneil of the artist to give it a world-wide 
fame. 

"Prontenao has a national re[nitation for tlie beauty of it« soeuery, 
its perfect iini of the i\linnesota climate, the varied interest of its drives, 
iiuil its facilities for boating, bathing, tnnit-tishing. and givuse-shooting. 

•• Yachts ami rowboats of the tinest nuHlel invite the guests to the 
pleasures of aiiuutic sports. .\ small steamer makes daily trips to the 
various lake port^. The steamboat landing is on the Lake side Hotel 
givuuds. 

" Fivntenao is the centre of the finest region in the North-West for both 
trout-tishing and gixnise-shooting. It is one of the very few places where 
these two sjun-ts can be had together; aud tlu>re is no jilace where they 
can be had together in such excellence and with such ease of access to 
the sportsman. A ixnv or sail of half an hour fivm the hotel, acixiss the 
lake, and a pleasant walk of half a mile, intwduces the angler to an 
inexhaustible and never disappointing supply of tivut in IMne Civek; and 
;i drive of ten miles will make him acquainted with the three aud four 
l>ouud tixnit of Rush Uiver. and with the dark forests, the overhanging 
rocks, and the sparkling waters of that finest o( all the trout streams. 
The hotel acconnnodation is excellent. 

"Fond du Lao pivsents many attractions to tlie invalid, tlie sick, ajid 
the atHicted. as well as to the ivbust and healthy. It is sin-ivunded with 
pleasant j^laces of ivsort. Lake de Neveu. a beautiful sheet of water, is 
ixMuantically situateil alxnit three miles south-east of the city. East- 
ward is Klkhart Lake, already famous for its natural beauties, and west- 
wanl lies (iiveu Lake, a Jioted summer resort. C>n all these lakes are 
pleasure-boats pn^pelled by steam, wind, and man power. The watei-s of 
all tliese lakes furnisli a plentiful and varions supply of fresh-wntei' 
fish, where piscatorially inclined ladies aud gentlemen can enjoy ample 
amusement in that line. 

"Fond du Lac also claims superiority over other AVisconsin summer 
resorts, for the season that w ithin her Ivumdaries she has Mai/nctic MId- 
<ml Sftrin;/.< that are claimed to be equal, or even superior, to those of 
Northern ^lichigan. 

"* Maiden Rook.' — On the eastern shoiv of Lake Pepin, about 
twelve nules fivm its nunith. there stands a blutf which attracts attention 
by its K^ldness. It is about four hundred and fifty feet in height, the 
last hundivd of which is a bald, precipitous crag. It is the Maiden's 
Rock of the l^akota. and a thrilling Indian tradition attends its history. 



POI'UI.Alt BESOIJTS, AND HOW TO UEACII TIIKM. ;i37 

PLEASURE ROUTE No. 30. 
Chicago to Omaha and the Par West. 

Gibbon the historian dwells j^lowinc^ly on the highway from end to 
end of tlie Roman world ; tliat is, from Cilasq-ow to Jerusalem, a distance 
of 3,700 miles. But this stui^endous work was only one-twelfth tlie 
length of the present railroad system of the United States, and was not 
much longer than the miles of track already laid down in Iowa. 

Railroads were in the outset far less perfect, while more complicated 
and costly, than they have since become. The law of progress has gov- 
erned them, as it indeed .governs every tiling. Some Western roads have 
profited by Eastern experience, and from their beginning have introduced 
those modern appliances for reducing the risls o/tntrc! la a nnnlmnm, and 
the comfort to a jnaibniiiii. 

Specimens of such imi^rovements are the Miller Platform and Coui)ler, 
WestiiTghouse Safety Air Brake (which would have prevented many of 
tlie fearful railway catastrophes which sicken the heart), the Pullman 
Sleeping and Dining-room Cars, and Passenger Coaches, running through 
from cities widely distant. Travellers from Europe and the far East 
wonder at seeing these things l)eyond the banks of the IMississippi. 

The Chicago, Burlington, and Quincy Railroad, which extends 
from CJiicago to several terminal points on the Missouri River, is a good 
illustration of a complete higiiway. 'J'his road crosses the Mississippi at 
Burlington, on one of the finest iron bridges in the world. 

No expense has been spared in its construction. Its length is 2,237 
feet, resting on piers of solid masonry 18x155 feet at the bottom, and 
9x23 at the top, and rising twelve feet above the highest water-mark 
known. From Burlington the road extends westward to Leavenworth, 
Atchison, Kansas City, St. Joseph, Plattsmouth, Nebi-aska City, and 
Omaha; at the latter point making direct and close connection with the 
" Union Pacific " for San Francisco and the Territories. The Hotel Car, 
most convenient of "all modern inducements to travellers, is constantly in 
use on this line; also the celebrated Pullman Sleeping-Car, wherein the 
traveller can sleep as comfortably while travelling at the rate of thirty 
miles an hour as in his own bed at home. It is these adjuncts of travel 
that make this the favorite route across tlie continent, atrip which should 
be taken by all who desire to know more of the customs and scenery of 
the great and growing West. 

Assuming that the traveller is familiar with the route as far as Chicago, 
or at least that he knows how to get there, let him on any fine morning 
take the 10.15 train on the Chicago, Burlington, and Quincy Railroad, 
than which there is no better in the cuunir//, en route for San Francisco. For 
the first few miles he will be surprised and delighted with the large 
number of suburban towns, and the completeness of their constriirtif)n. 



I'Ol'ULAIi HKSOIM'S, ANO HOW TO IIKACII TllIiM. 



339 



The " Illinois Central Railroad"crossesour route at Mendota, which place 
we reach after three hours' ride. Here dinner awaits us, the quality and 
abundance of which are among the noticeable features; and, what is better 
than all, we have a plenty of time in which to discuss it. Again we are 
en route; and the train is whirled along an inunense prairie region, 
through fields of corn, studded with enterprising towns and thriving 
farms. At 6, p.m., we reach Galesburg; yet so evenly ballasted is this 
road that we have not yet thought of fatigue. Galesburg seems like a 
New England town, magically ti-ansplanted to a Western State. 'J'he 
society also is said to be unexceptionable; and few ]>laces East or West 
exhibit more taste or refinement. 

Here a 
Hotel Car is 
attached to 
the t r a i n. 
The safety, 
pleasure, and 
comfoi'ts of 
railroad 
travel have 
been wonder- 
fully i m- 
proved dur- 
ing the last 
few years, but 
this, one of 
the latest, 
will unques- 
tionably be 
pronounced 
the best of 
the comfort- 
seeking in- 
ventions yet 

produced. For the extremely low sum of seventy-five cents the wants 
of "the inner man" are supplied, — broiled steak and quail, and cakes 
smoking hot, and no cry of " All aboard ! " from the conductor. In a 
word, while moving without exertion through the air like a bird of 
passage, we eat, drink and sleep, surrounded by the luxuriant ease and 
comforts of home ; and passengers thus sumptuously regaled are lost to 
distance. With the setting sun we find ourselves approaching the 
Mississippi, which we cross to Burlington ; the next morning we reach 
Council Bluffs and at 11, a.m., connect with the Union Pacific Railroad 
at Omaha. 




PLEASANT VALLEY, 
Pacific R.R. 



340 POPULAR KESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

PLEASURE ROUTE No. 31. 

Omaha and the East to Colorado, Wyoming, Montana, 
Idaho, Utah, and the Pacific Coast. 

THE UNION AND CENTRAL PACIFIC RAILROADS. 

To publish a book on the pojpular resoits of the United States with- 
out allusion to the many points of interest reached by the Union and 
Central Pacific Railroads, would, indeed, be a repetition of the old adage 
of the play of Hamlet with the character of Hamlet left out. Numer- 
ous and beautiful as are the resorts and pleasure routes of the East, 
popular and growing as are those of the North-West, and interesting as 
are those of the South, the natural attractions of the Far-"\\'est eclipse 
them all. Here Nature's works are displayed in her grandest moods. 
The mountains of the Atlantic States are but foot-hiUs to the Sierra 
Nevadas, and the grandest features of the East would be lost in the 
awful canons of the West. 

Dakota. — The Ten-itory of Dakota is being brought into notice by 
the recent gold excitement, the Black Hills country especially- The 
opening up of the mining interest will develop the scenic beauties of 
that region. Yankton is reached over the lines just described. Bismark 
is the present terminus of the Northern Pacific Railroad. 

The Union Pacific Railroad, receiving Eastern tourists from the several 
lines converging at Omaha, extends west towards the Pacific, and, with 
the Central Pacific, forms the main artery of travel. Visitors to Colorado 
diverge to the left by the Colorado Central Railroad, which leads to one 
of the most interesting regions of the United States, and ojiens up some 
of the grandest scenery in America. Colorado is filled with pleasure 
resorts, and the facility with which they are reached adds materially to 
their popularity. To do justice by description (which cannot be done 
without illustrations) would require a volume of itself. 

Denver is the metropolitan centre and business entrepot of the State. 
• ■ The traveller who desires to visit the summer resorts of Colorado 
sprinf/s, or the pleasant cities of far Southern Colorado, Pueblo, Canon, 
or Trinidad ; who wishes to go into the mountains to Black Hawk or 
Central, the gold centres ; to Idaho Springs, with her wonderful baths 
and beautiful canons and peaks ; to Georgetown or Caribou, the silver 
producing districts ; to Gray's Peak, Long's Peak, Pike's Peak, or INIount 
Lincoln, the watch-towers of the continent ; to the Parks, with theii- 
wealth of mountain scenery, fish, game, mineral springs, and rocky gorges; 
to Manitou, with her medicinal waters ; to the marvellous rocks of the 
Garden of the Gods, or the disintegrated sandstone sentinels of Monu- 
ment ; whatever section it is desired to reach, — Denver stands to it as the 
departure point." 



I'OPULAlt UKSORTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM. Ml 

Montana. — If the National Park of the Yellowstone be the 

objective point, the tourist will continue on the Union Pacific Railroad to 
Corinne, Utah, at present the nearest approach by rail. From Corinne 
the trip is completed partly by stage and by saddle, but should only be 
undertaken by persons of strong physical endurance, after special prepa- 
ration. 

The region of the Yellowstone, with its stupendous waterfalls, enor- 
mous canons, unrivalled geysers, and its boiling springs, is unquestion- 
ably one of the most thrillingly interesting localities on the American 
continent, and when better known, with improved transportation facili- 
ties, will become the " Mecca " for tourists. 

It should be understood that a territory about fifty miles square, em- 
bracing the head waters of the Yellowstone River, Yellowstone Lake, the 
Grand Canon of the Yellowstone, and the Geyser Basins, was, by Act of 
Congress ajiproved March 1, 1872, set apart " for the benefit and enjoy- 
ment of the people," to be known as the "Yellowstone National 
Park." 

It is not proposed to give, in this edition, a detailed description of 
this iutei-esting section, save a few extracts, by permission, from the 
official reports of F. V. Hayden, United States Geologist, and N. P. 
Langford, Superintendent of the Yellowstone National Park. 

" The park is at present accessible only by means of saddle and pack 
trains. ... It can be visited any time between the last of April 
and the first of November, but it appears to the best advantage during 
the montlis of July, August, and September. . . . Tourists desirous 
of reacliing it by the most picturesque route will proceed by railroad 
to Corinne, Utah, where they can purchase their outfits cheaper and to 
better advantage than at any advanced point."* The Yellowstone 
region can also be reached by the Northern Pacific Railroad to Bismark, 
Dakota Territory, and continued from there by stage; but tourists famil- 
iar with both routes give their preference to the former. 

The Geyser Basins, Upper and Lower, prove features of great 
interest to the tourist. The Lower Basin is first approached. " The 
geysers here, though comparatively small, ai-e very woiiderf ul to the eyes 
of the visitor who first beholds them." Ten miles farther by an 
interesting route is the Upper Basin, in which "there are at least two 
thousand hot springs, large and small, . . . and of. this number prob- 
ably two hundred are geysers. The whole basin is enveloped in steam, 
and seen at a distance is like the approach to a cluster of manufactories." 

* The visitor to any point west of Omaha is advised to correspond first with Tliomas 
L. Kimball, Esq., Omalia, Neb , General Passenger Agent of the Union Pacific Railroad. 
The frequent changes in routes, excursion-rates, &c., make it desirable to receive the 
latest information from headquarters. 



342 



POPUI.AIJ RESORTS, AND HOW TO BEACH THEM. 



The geysers project water with terrific force, and in fabulous quanti- 
ties, and in every conceivable form, to heights varying from twenty to 
two himdred and fifty feet. These seen in the rays of the midday 
sun, or in tlie 
beams of a 
full moon, 
are inexpress- 
ibly gran d. 
It is fifteen 
miles from 
the basin to 
Yellowstone 
Lake." .... 
Tlie lake is 
nearly eight 
thousand feet 
above the 
ocean. It 
is twenty- 
five miles 
in length, 
embosomed 
amid moun- 
tains, gemmed 
with green 
islands, in 
form unique, 
and surround- 
ed on all sides 
by hot springs 
in great vari- 
ety, number, 
and beauty. 
fJets of steam 
may be seen 
issuing from 
hot springs, 
from the isl- 
ands, even giant GEYSEr, 

from the bo- Yellowstone Park, Morrtana Territory. 

som of the lake itself. Some of the loftiest and most inaccessible 
mountain-ridges on the continent lift their snow-clad summits in the 
immediate vicinity. Tlie scenery is colossal and full of savage grandeur. 




POI'lll.AK UKSOUl'S, AND UOVV TO KKAC'II IIIKM. .WH 

."Following down the river from tiie foot of the lake nine miles, we 
reach Sulphur Mountain, Mud Gei/scr, Mud Volnino, and the liloiritit/ 
Cacern, all objects of separate interest." 




CRYSTAL FALLS, ON CASCADE CREEK, 129 FEET. 

" Ten miles farther are the two great cataracts, and the Giant 
Canon of the Yellowstone, ].erhaps the most stupendous elements 



344 POPULAK KKSOUrS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM. 

of scenery in the park. The upper fall is one hundred and fifteen feet 
in height. Between the two falls, Cascade Creek flows into the Yellow- 
stone frona the west. A short distance above its mouth is located the 
picturesque Crystal Falls, or cascade, for it is made up of three distinct 
falls, the aggregate height of which is one hundred and twenty-nine feet. 
The lower fall of the Yellowstone, which plunges directly into the canon, 
is three hundred and fifty feet high, —higher than Bunker Hill Monument,' 
or the spire of Trinity Church, New York ; and the canon itself, varying 
from one to three thousand feet in depth, is forty miles in length, and for 
the Avhole distance presents to the eye the most wonderful chasm in the 
world. . . . Lieut. Doane, who in 1870 succeeded in reaching the bottom, 
at a point where the walls are nearly three thousand feet in "height, in his 
official report says, ' It was about three o'clock, p. m., and stars could 
he distincthj seen, so much of the sunlight was cut off from entering the 
chasm. ' 

"Evidences of volcanic action are everywhere visible." There is in 
this Yellowstone Range an unlimited field for the artist, the scientist, 
and pleasure-seeker. 

Before resuming our tour westward on the line of the Central Pacific 
Railway, which we struck at Ogdcn, the tourist should devote some atten- 
tion to Salt Lake City and the valley in which it lies. This valley is 
about ninety by fifty miles in extent, and has an elevation of four thou- 
sand feet above the sea, and is noted for the remarkable purity of its 
atmosphere. 

Salt Lake City now numbers about twenty thousand souls ; it covers 
an area of twenty-seven square miles, and is surrounded by rugged snow- 
capped mountains. The Salt Lake House, Townsend, and Revere are the 
principal hotels. The city contains much to interest a stranger, and 
should not be ignored by the tourist. 

The Warm Springs are only two miles from the city, and will at- 
tract attention ; but the Hot Springs are the most interesting. The 
water is projected forcibly from an aperture in the rocks, at a tempera- 
ture too high to admit of bathing, and sufficient, it is claimed, to cook 
eggs. It is highly impregnated with sulphur. 

Continuing our trip westward, if the tourist has still a desire to visit 
the rush of mighty waters, he should see the Great Shoshone Falls 
of Idaho, located about three hundred miles north-west from Great Salt 
Lake City, and one hundred and eighty-five miles from Boise City, and 
within six miles of the stage road. The Shoshone River has here cut a 
canon to the depth of one thousand feet, and nearly a half mile in width, 
widening to one mile at the falls. A few hundred yards above the falls, 
the stream is divided into six channels by five islands standing in the bed 
of the river ; uniting again, the current rushes on to the final leap, which 



POI'tll.AK RF.SOKTS, AND HOW TO KKACH THKM. 345 

is made in an unbroken sheet, plunging sheer down to the depth of two 
hundred feet, where it is broken into clouds of foam and spray. 

California. — The Western tourist who continues his travels to the 
Pacific coast should allot sufficient time to study the wonderful features 
of this interesting State. Its many resorts should be illustrated to be 
appreciated, which it is hoi)ed the next edition of " Popular Resorts " 
will supply. Lake Tahoe and Donner Lake are the two principal bodies 
of fresh water, and have already attained a great popularity with tourists. 

Lake Tahoe, one of the most beautiful sheets of water west of the 
Rocky Mountains, lies in two States and five counties, California and 
Xevada dividing the honor of its ownership. It is twenty-two miles in 
length, and ten in width. Its shores are indented with lovely little bays, 
two of which. Emerald and Cornelian Baijs, have been for several years 
the favorite resort of tourists. The visitor will leave the cars at Truckee 
City, at which place he will find three well-conducted hotels, the largest 
of which, the Truckee House, is considered the headquarters of tourists. 
Daily stages leave for Lake Tahoe and Donner Lake, the first twelve miles 
south, and the latter three miles to the north-west. Tahoe City, at the 
foot of the lake, contains excellent accommodations : a good hotel, livery 
stable, pleasure boats. &c. A steamboat makes daily pleasure trips 
about the lake for the entertainment of tourists. 

Bonner Lake lies within three miles of Truckee, and, though but small 
compared with the latter, by its romantic surroundings is destined to 
become famed as a resort. It is three and a half miles long and one 
mile wide. It has been sounded to the depth of two thousand feet, but 
no bottom has ever been found. It is supposed to be the filled-up crater 
of an extinct volcano. Its waters are intensely cold and clear. On all 
sides of it wooded mountains rise abruptly to a considerable height. 

Calistoga is one of the most popular of the summer resorts on the 
Pacific coast, and is near San Francisco Bay. The medicinal qualities 
of its springs annually draw large numbers of visitors, and in tlie heat 
of the summer it is a California Saratoga. The hunting and fishing in 
the neighborhood are unsurpassed, while the surrounding scenery is 
delightful. It is reached from San Francisco by steamer to Vallejo, 
distance twenty-eight miles, at which point the cars are taken over the 
Napa Valley Railroad, forty-three miles more. The hotels are as good 
as can be found in the State, and the conveniences ■ all that could be 
asked for. Five miles south-east of Calistoga Hot Springs is located 
the Petrified Forest, of recent discovery, and great scientific interest. 
The petrifaction is perfect, and the place well deserves the attention of 
tourists. Many of the trees are so well preserved that the species of 
wood and character of growth are easily determined. 

Mount St. Helena, an extinct volcano, having an altitude of 4,343 



346 POPULAR KESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 

feet, is but ten miles distant from Calistoga, and is attracting a good 
share of attention.* 

The Great Geyser Springs are in Sonoma County, and are impreg- 
nated with iron, sulphur, and soda ; and the famed localities are severally- 
known as the Iron and Sulphur spring, temperature 73° Fah. ; Alum and 
Iron incrusted, temperature 97° ; Medicated Geyser Bath, temperature 
88° 8' ; Boiling Alum and Sulphur, temperature 156°; Black Sulphur; 
EpHom Salts Spring, temperature 146° ; close by a spring of iron, sul- 
phur, and salt, at boiling point, and Boiling Black Sulphur ; the Witches' 
Caldron, seven feet in diameter, is in continual ebullition, temperature 
195° 5' ; near this, Alu7n Spi-ing, temperature 176° ; Intermittent Scalditig 
Spring, projecting water fifteen feet ; Steamboat Geyser, ejecting steam 
with a great noise. Scalding Steam Iron Bath, temperature 183°. There 
are many other objects of interest in this vicinity. 

Yosemite Falls and Big Trees. — This must always form an 
object point for the visitor to the Pacific slope. Its description is a 
proper theme to close a work on " Popular Resorts." It is a grand and 
fitting after-piece for such an interesting subject. The Yosemite Valley 
is situated in Mariposa County, one hundred and forty miles south by 
east from San Francisco, though two hundred and fifty by the route of 
approach. It is drained by Merced River. This whole region must be 
described by superlatives. Its mountains reaching an altitude of 6,450 
feet, its stupendous waterfalls to the heights of 600 feet, 700, 940, 2,634, 
and 3,300, are beyond comparison, and must be seen to be fully appre- 
ciated. Its trees rival the waterfalls, and form one of the most remark- 
able wonders of the world. This valley is but forty-eight hours from 
San Francisco by the Central Pacific Railroad, and no one should fail to 
see it. 

Within the past few months a new and wonderful feature has been 
discovered in the Yosemite region. It is in Tuolumne River Canon, 
seventeen miles north of the Yosemite, now so well known. The 
Tuolumne River which is much wider than the Merced, runs through this 
canon. 

The Tuolumne Canon, with its connections, has an unbroken length of 
forty miles. For twenty miles of this distance it is shut in by vertical 
clean-cut walls of granite. Some of these walls are several hundred feet 
higher than the verg highest in the Yosemite Valley. The falls of the Merced 
Yosemite surpass those of the Tuolunme Canon in unbroken volumes of 
descending water, but in endless variety of cascades and water-shoots the 
Tuolumne Canon is far superior. 

The Big Tree Grove, Calaveras County, known as the " Big Trees 
of California," can be reached with only forty miles staging. The region 
is provided with excellent hotel accommodations, with good guides, and 
telegraph communications. 



IISTDEX. 



Abraham. Mount, Me., 94. 

Adams, Mount, 30. 

Aiken, S C.,290. 

Alabama and Chattanooga RaUroad, 298. 

Alabama Central Railroad. '-'!)!), ,305. 

Albany and Susciuehann.i ii.li., 14'i, 169. 

Albany. N.Y.. 194. 

Alburgh .Springs. Vt., 321. 

Alexandria Bay, N.Y., 178, 196. 

Allegash. Lake, Me., 95. 

Alleghany Mountains, 253, 279. 

Alleghany Springs, Va., 302. 

Alleghany Station, Va., 279. 

Allentovvn, Penn., 145, 146, 219. 

Alpina, Mich., 314. 

Altoona. Penn., 251. 

Alton, N.H..39. 

Alton Bay, N.H., 41, 70. 

Alum and Iron Springs, Cal., .346. 

Alum Spring, Cal., 346. 

Araicalol.ah Falls, Ga., 297. 

Ammonoosuc Falls, N H. (cut), 61. 

Ammonoosuc River, N.H., 31, 37, 51, 56. 

Ancient Mounds. Ky., 312. 

Androscoggin Riyer. 31, 55, 92. 

Annanance ( Willoughby Mountain), Vt , 63. 

Appomatto.x, Va.. 301. 

Ardmore Station (cut), 249. 

Artesian Letitia Springs, N.Y., 195. 

Artist's Falls, N.H , 72. 

Ashland, N.H., 45. 

Ashland, NY., 138. 

Ashley, Penn., 161. 

Ashley Lake, Mass., 123. 

Ashley River, S.C., 291. 

Ashville, N C, 295. 

Atlanta, Ga., 298. 

Atlantic City, N.J , 230. 

Atlantic Coast Line, 289. 

Atlantic and Great Western R.R , 209, 210. 

Atlantic and Gulf Railroad, 292. 

Augusta Stribling Springs, Va , 275. 

Au Sable Chasm, N.Y.. 178. 

Au Sable Forks, N.Y., 179 

Au Sable Lake (lo\ver), N.Y., 179. 

Au Sable Lake (upper), N.Y., 179. 

Au Sable River, N.Y., 179. 

Avalanche Lake, N.Y , 180. 

Avon Springs, N.Y., 208. 

Aztalan, Wis., 321. 

Bailey's Spiings, Ala., .306. 

Baker's Inn, N.Y , 180 

Bald Head CliJf, Me , 70. 

Bald Knob, Va., 303. 

Bald Mount. N.C., 297. 

Ballston.N.Y., 195 

Baltimore, Md., 256. 

Baltimore and Potomac Railroad, 25.5. 

Baltimore Steam Packet Company (Old 

Bay Line), 241. 
Baraboo River, Wis.. 3:53. 
Barden House, Me , 94. 
Bar Harbor, Me., 78. 



Bass Lake, Mich., 316. 

Bastion, N.Y , 140 

Bath Alum Springs, Va., 277. 

Battle House, Ala , 299. 

Bav City, Mich.. 314. 

Bay of St. Louis, Miss., 299. 

Bay View, N.H., 39. 

Bear ClifE Falls, N H., 207. 

Bear Mount, Vt., 64. 

Bear's Den, N.Y., 1.39. 

Beaumont Hotel, Wis., 3.30. 

Beaverkill. N.Y., 138. 

Bedfojd Alum Springs, Va , 301. 

Bedford Springs. Peini., 2.)4. 

Beech Lake, N.Y. , 182. 

Beecher's Falls, N.H , 90. 

Beersheba Springs, Ala., 306. 

Belknap Mountain, 41. 

Bellows Falls, Vt., 1 19, 122. 

Belmont Glen. Penn., 214. 

Belmont, N.H., 39. 

Belvidere Railroad, Penn., 145. 

Berkshire Hills, Mass., 123. 

Berlin Falls, N.H., 93. 

Berry Pond, Mass., 123. 

Berwick, Me., 70. 

Bethel, Me., 92. 

Bethlehem, Penn., 146. 

Bethlehem, N.H.,53, 56. 

Betsey Lake, Mich., 316. 

Beyond Chicago, 318. 

Big Bone Cave. Tenn., 305. 

Big liull Falls. Wis.. 221. 

Big Indian. N.Y.. 138. 

Big Moose Lake, N.Y., 182. 

Big Tree Grove. Cal., 346. 

Biloxi, Miss.. 299. 

Binghamton, N.Y., 207. 

Birdsbovo', Penn.. 218, 237. 

Birmingham Station, Ala., 313. 

Hismark. Dakota. 340. 

Blackberry Mount, Can., 65. 

Black Chasm Falls, N. Y., 140. 

Black Head, N.Y, 141. 

Black Hills. Dakota Ter., 340. 

Black Mount, N.C , 'z95. 

Black River Ranids, N.Y., 196. 

Black Rock, N.Y , 209. 

lUack Sulphur Spring. Cal., 346. 

Black Sulphur Springs, Tenn., 305. 

Blood's Inn, N.Y., 180 

Bloomsburg, Penn . 229. 

Blout's Springs, Ala., .S06. 

mowing Cavern, Mon., 343. 

Blue Lick Springs. Kv., 309. 

Blue Mounds, Wis., .321, 333. 

Blue Mountain Lake, N.Y., 182. 

Blue Mount, Me , 94 

Blue Mount, N.Y.. 180. 

Blue Ridge Mountain. Va., 274. 

Blue Springs, Ala., 313. 

Boardman River, Mich., 316. 

Boar's Head, N.H., 66. 

347 



348 



Boiling Alum and Sulphur, Cal., 346. 

Boilijig Black Sulphur Spring, Cal., 346. 

Bolcon Falls, Yt., 120. 

Bolton Springs, Vt , 64. 

Bomaseen Lake, Vt., 125. 

Bon Aqua Springs, Tenn., 305 

Bonsack's Station, Va., 302. 

Boston, Mass., 25, 33. 

Boston and Albany Railroad, 119. 

Boston and >raine Railroad, 73. 

Boston and Providence Railroad, 126. 

Boston, Lowell, and Nashua Railroad (cut 

34). 119. 
Bowling Green, Ky., 310. 
Brandywine Springs, Penn., 237. 
Brantiiigham Lake, N.Y., 196. 
Bread-Loaf lun, Vt.. 125. 
Bread-Loaf Mount, Vt., 125. 
Bridal Veil Falls, Mum., 334. 
Bridgeport, Conn., 130. 
Bridgeport. Penn., 259. 
Bridgton, Me., 84. 
Bristol. Va., 304. 
Brookside, Penn. (cut), 223. 
Bryant's Pond Station, Me., 92. 
BiTn Mawr, Penn. (cut). 245. 
Biiffalo. N.Y., 209. 
Burkeville, Va.. 301. 
Buttermilk Falls, N. Y., 194, 201. 
Buttes des Mortes Lake, Wis., 328. 
Buzzard's Bav, Mass.. 109. 
Cfesar's Head Mountain, N.C, 296. 
Cairo and Fulton Railroad, 308. 
Calaveras Big Tree Grove, Cal., 346. 
Caledonia, Wis.. 332. 
Calhoun Lake, Minn.. 334. 
California, 24, .345. 
Calistoga Hot Spiings, Cal., 345. 
Camden, Me., 79. 
Camden, S C , 290. 
Camden and Atlantic Railroad, 230. 
Camel's Hump Mount, Vt., 120. 
Camp Stove, 17. 
Campton. N.H , 49. 
Canada, 04. 

Canandaigua, N.Y.. 267. 
Canandaigua Lake. N.Y., 202. 
Canaserasa Creek Falls, N. Y., 198. 
Canon, Col.. 340. 
Caiion River, Cal., 346. 
Canterbun-. N.H., 39. 
Cape Arundel, Me., 66, 73. 
Cape Cod. Mass., 101. 
Cape Fear River, N.C., 290. 
Cape May, N.J.. 232. 
Cape Vincent, N.Y., 197. 
Caribou. Col., 340. 
Carter Mount, N H., 93. 
Carter's Falls, Vt., 125. 
Carver's Cave, Minn.. 334. 
Cascade Bridge. N.Y., 206. 
Cascade Creek, Mon., 343. 
Casco Bay, Me.. 76. 
Castiue, Me., 78. 
Castle Piuckney, S.C . 291. 
Catawissa Creek, Penn. , 226. 
Catawissa, Penn. (cuf), 228. 
Catawissa Railroad, Penn., 157, 225. 
Catoosa Springs, Ga., 298. 
Catskill Mountains, N.Y., 136. 
Caucomgomosis Lake, Me., 95. 
Caucomgomuc Lake, Me., 95. 
Caughnawaga. Can., 65. 
Causilor's Spiiugs, N.C., 289. 



Cauterskill Clove, K.Y., 140. 

Cauterskill Falls, N.Y., 140. 

Cauterskill Lakes, N.Y., 140. 

Cauterskill Station, N.Y., 139. 

Cave (Big Bone). Term., 305. 

Cave City, Ky., 309. 

Cave, Diamond, Ky., 312. 

Cave Hotel, Ky., 309. 

Cave House, Howe's Cave (cut), 172. 

Cave, Indian, Ky., 312. 

Cave, Mammoth, Kv., 309. 

Cave, White's, Kv.,"312. 

Cayuga Lake, N. Y. , 200. 

Cazenovia, Canastota. and De Ruyter Rail- 
road, 198. 

Cazenovia Lake, N.Y.. 198. 

Cedar Lake, Mich., 316. 

Cedar Lake, Minn.. 334. 

Centre Harbor, N.H.. 41, 70. 

Central Pacific Railroad, 340. 

Central Railroad of Kew Jersey, 142, 182, 
225. 

Central Vermont Railroad, 1 19, 196. 

Chalybeate Spring, Tenn., 305. 

Chalybeate Springs, Ga., 298. 

Champlain, Lake, 178. 

Cbamplain Springs, Vt., 121. 

Chandler Spring, Ala., 299. 

Charleston, S.C, 291. 

Charleston, West Va. (cut), 287. 

Charlevoix, Mich., 316. 

Charlottesville, Va.. 274. 

Charlottetown, P.E.I., 96. 

Chatham Four Comers, N.Y., 119. 

Chattanooga, Tenn.. 306. 

Chautauqua Lake, N.Y., 210. 

Chelsea, Mass., 66. 

Chelsea Beach, Mass., 66. 

Cherokee Springs, Ga , 298. 

CheriT Valley Branch Railroad, 171. 

Chesapeake and Ohio Railroad, 272. 

Chesapeake Bav, 238. 

Cheshire Railroad, 119. 

Chesuncook Lake, Me., 95. 

Chicago, 314, 317. 332. 

Chicago and North- Western Railroad, 320. 

Chicago and St. Paul Line, 332. 

Chicago, Milwaukee, and St. Paul Rail- 
road, 332. 

Chickahominv Earthworks, Va. (cut), 270. 

Chippewa Falls, Wis., 321. 

Chippewa River, Minn., 335. 

Chimneys, N.C., 296. 

Chilhowee Springs. Va., 304. 

Christiansburgh, Va., 303. 

Chittenango, N Y,. 198. 

Chocorua, Mt., N.H., 30, 71, 84. 

Cincinnati, Cumberland Gap, and Charles- 
ton Railroad. 305. 

Citv Hotel. La.. 300. 

Citv of Rocks, Tenn., 306. 

Clam Lake. IMich., 316. 

Clarendon Spiuigs, Vt, 124. 

ClarksviUe, Ga.,"297. 

Clav. Mount, N.H., 30. 

Clear Lake, Minn., 334. 

Cleveland Springs, N.C., 289. 

Cleveland. O., 314. 

Clifford House, Mass., 99. 

Chnton, Mt., N.H., 30, 91. 

Cloud Point, Penn. (cut), 160. 

Coal Breaker (cut), 156. 

Coal Transport (cut), 230. 

Coatesville Bridge, Penn. (cut), 242. 



349 



Cobles Kill .Tutictioii, N.Y., 171. 
Coh.asset, Mass., 90. 
Coliasset Narrows. Mass., 102. 
Coldeii Lake, N.Y., 180. 
Coldeii Mt., N.Y., IkO. 
Colebrook. N.II., .50. 
Colorado, 24, 310. 
Colorado Springs, .340. 
Columbia, S.C, 2<M. 
Columbia Brid-je (cut), 214. 
Columbia Hotel. N.J., 2.32. 
Columbia Hotel. S.C, 290. 
Como Lake, Minn., 334. 
Concord, X.H., .'iT. 
Concord Railroad, 33, 119. 
Congarec Falls, S.C , 290. 
Congress Hall, N.J., 232. 
Conneaut Lake, Peiin., 210. 
Connecticut Ivake, N. IL, 5G, 93. 
Coimecticut Kiver, 37, 55. 
Conway, N.H.,41. 70, 84. 
Conway Branch Kailroad, 70. 
Cooper House, NY., 170, 207. 
Cooper River, S C, 2:H. 
Cooporstown. N.Y., 109. 
Cove Hill, N.Y., 180. 
Covington. Kv., 308. 
Cornelian Bav, Gal., 31.5. 
Coming, N.Y., 207. 
Cotuit Port, Mass., 101. 
Covington, Va., 279. 
Cow- Pasture River, Va., 277. 
Coyner's Spring, Va., 302. 
Crawford House, Boston, 118. 
Crawford House, N.H., 61, 72, 90. 
Cresson, Penii., 2')3. 
Cristfield. Del. (cut), 23i. 
Crs'stal Cascade, N.H., 72, 93. 
Crystal Palls, Mon., 313. 
Crystal Lake, Minn.. 334. 
Crystal Lake, Wis , 3:i2. 
Crbton Lake, N.Y., 103. 
Croton Point, N.Y., 135, 193. 
Crooked Lake, Mich., 316. 
Crooked, or Keuka Lake, N.Y., 2 )2. 
Crosby Mt.N.H., Ill), 
Crosby .Side, N.Y., 178. 
Crowders Mt., N.C., 296. 
Crown Point, N.Y., 178. 
Cumberland Gap, Tenn., 304. 
Cumberland Valley Railroad, 254. 
Cumberland INIt., Tenn., 304. 
Dakota Ter.. 310. 
Dalles of the St. Croix, 321. 
Dalles of the St. Louis, 321. 
Dalton. N.H., 53. 
Damariscotta Lake, Me., 95. 
Danville, Pemi., 229. 
Dartford, Wis.. 326. 
Day Boats (Hudson River), 136. 
Decatur, A)a.,3(i6. 

Delaware .and Hudson Railroad, 163, 207. 
Delaware Bay, N.J., 234. 
Delaware, Lack.awanna, and Western Rail- 
road, 145, 186, 2 )7. 
Delaware Water Gap, Penn., 145. 
Denver, Col., 340. 
Detroit, Mich., 314. 
Devil's Lake, Wis., 321, 322, 333. 
Devil's Oven, N.Y., 208. 
Di.amond Cave, Ky., 312. 
Diamond Lake, Mich., 316. 
Dowdy Creek, Va., 284. 
DuluLh, Wis., 332. 



Dial Mt.,N.Y., 180. 

Diana's Baths. N.H., 72 (cut 87). 

Dismal Pool, N.H., 89. 

Dix's Peak, N.Y., 180. 

Dixvillo Notch, N.IL, 5.5, 93. 

Donner Lake, Cal., 345. 

Dover, N H., 53. 

Drennon IJlack Sulphur Springs, Ky., 309. 

Dunkirk, N.Y., 209. 

Dunmoro Lake, \'t., 125. 

Dutchman's Run, Penn. (cut), 261. 

Duxbury. Mass., 99. 

Kagle Hotel, N.H., 57. 

Eagle Lake, N.Y., 182. 

Eastatia Falls, Ga , 297. 

Eastern Provinces, 96. 

Eastern Railroad, 66. 

Easton, Penn., 14."). 

East Pennsylvania Railroad, Penn., 219. 

East Teinicssoe and Virginia Railroad, 305. 

Echo Lake. N.H. ,49 72. 

Edgartowii. Mass., 117. 

Eggleston Springs, \'a.. 303. 

Elephantis Mt., (Janada, 64. 

Elizabeth, Ky., 31)9. 

Elkhart Lake, 33(i. 

Elk Lake, Mich., 316. 

Elkmout Springs, Tcnni., 313. 

Elk River, Mich., 310. 

Elkton, Del.. 239. 

Elliott's Knob. Va.,276 

Elmira. N.Y.,207,202. 

Emerald Bay, ('al., 315. 

Empire Falls, N.Y., 2ry!. 

Enfield Glen Falls. N.Y., 201. 

Enterprise, Ga., 293. 

Ei)hrata Springs, Penn., 219. 

Epsom Salt Spring, Cal., 346. 

Equinox House Vt., 124. 

Equinox Mt., Vt ,124. 

Erie Railway, 130. 204, 202. 

Escanaba, Wis., .330. 

Esopus Valley, N.Y., 140. 

European .ind North American R'way, 96. 

Entaw Spring-, S C, 200. 

Fubyan House, 33, .53 (cut 60), 90, 91. 

Fairhaven.Mass., 109. 

Fairmount I'ark, I'enn , 214, 246. 

Faii-j' Springs, N.Y.. 139. 

Falling Spring Falls, Va., 278. 

F.ill River, M.ass., 33. 

Falmouth Heights, Mass., 101. 

Falmouth House, Me. (cut), 75. 

Falls : — 

Alhambra, N.Y., 195. 

Amicalol.ah, Ga.,297. 

Amoskc.ag, N..'l., 37. 

Artist's, N.H., 72. 

Bastion. N.Y.. 140. 

BearClift". N.Y.,207. 

Beecher's. N.H., 90. 

Bellows, Vt.. 119, 122. 

Berlin, N.H. ,93. 

Big Bull, 321. . 

Black (^hasm, N.Y., 140. 

Black River. Mius., 122. 

Black River (Rapids), N.Y., 19«. 

Bolton. Vt., 121). 

Bridal Veil, Minn.. .334. 

Buttermilk, N.Y., 194. 

Canaseraga Creek, N.Y., 198. 

Carter's, Vt., 125. 

Cauterskill, N.Y., 140. 

Chippewa, Wis., 321. 



350 



INDEX. 



falls continued: — 

Clyde River, Vt., 64. 

Congaree. B.C., 290. 

Crystal Cascade. N.H., 72, 93 

Crystal, Mou. fcut), :M:j. 

Eastatia, Ga., 297. 

Elk, Mioh., .'Ue. 

Empire, N.Y.. 263. 

Eufield Gloii, N.Y., 201 

Falling Spring FaUs, Va., 278. 

Falls of the Yellowstone (upper), Men., 

Palls of the Yellow.stone (lower), Mor., 
344. 

Pawn's Leap Falls, Minn., .^34. 

Fawn's Leap Falls, N.Y., 140 

Flume Palls, NY., lioi. 

Foaming Falls, N Y., 201. 

Forrest Falls. N.Y., 201. 

Ganoga Falls, Penn., 186. 

Genesee Pall.i, N.Y 202 

Gibbs Falls. N.H.. 91 

Glen Ellis Falls, N.H., 72, 93. 

Goodrich Palls, N.H., 72. 

Grandfather Bull Falls, 321. 

Great Falls of the Catawba, N.C., 296 

Great Shoshone FaUs, Idaho. 344 

Hain's, N. V"., 140. 

Hector, N.Y. (cut), 265. 

-High, N.Y.. 195, 205. 

Hooksett, N.H., 36. 

Horse Shoe, N.Y., 208. 

Ithaca, N.Y., 201. 

Jones, Md, 257. 

KauterskDl, N.Y., 137. 
Lawrence, Mass., 37. 
Linnville, N.C., 295. 
Little Stony, Va., 303. 
Lowell, Mass.. .37. 
Lyons, N.Y., 196. 
Middle, N.Y.. 208. 
Milldam, N.Y., 193 
Miiniehaha, Minn., 334. 
Nayaug, Penn. (cut), 165. 
Niagara, N.Y., 203, 267. 
Ossipee, N.H., 71. 
Passaic, N.J., 204. 
Portage, N.Y. ,208. 
Pulpit, N.Y., 201. 
Puncheon Run, Va., 302. 
Rainbow, N. Y. (cut), 264. 
Ramapo, N.Y., 204. 
Richmond, Va. (cut), 283. 
Kocky, N.Y., 201. 
Rocky Heart, N. Y., 195. 
Rumford, Me., 92. 
Sawkill, N.Y., 206. 
Shawanagan, Can., 65. 
Sherman, N.Y., 195. 
Slicking, N.C., 297. 
St. Anthony, Minn., 24, 334. 
Steep, Me., 82. 
Sugar, N.Y., 196. 
Tallulah, Ga., 297. 
Taughannock, N.Y., 201. 
Thompson's, N.H., 72. 
Toccoa, Ga., 297. 
Towalaga, Ga., 297. 
Trenton, N,Y.. 195. 
Triphammer, N.Y., 201. 
White Water Cataracts, N.C., 297. 
To Semite, Gal., 346. 
Falls of St. Anthony, Minn., 24. 
Falls Village Bridge, Penn. (cut), 212. 



Palls VUlage, Peiin.. 216. 

Parniliigto'ii, Me., !14. 

Farinviile, Va., 301. 

Fawn's Leap FaUs, Minn., 334 

Pawn's Leap Palls, K.Y., 140. 

Fernandina. Pla., 293. 

Fife Lake. Mich., 316. 

First National Hotel, Wis., 330 

Pisher's View, Va , 302 

PiBhkLD.N.Y..194. 

Pitchburg Railroad, 119, 121. 

Flint and Pere Marquette Railroad, 314. 

Florida, 21, 21)2. ' 

Plume (Dixville Notch). N.H., ,55. 

Plume (Franconia Mountains), N.H 40 

Plume Pa,lls,N.Y., 201. '^;-*j. 

Foaming Falls, N.Y. , 201. 

Fond du Lac, Wis., 3.S2, 336. 

Forest House, Wis., .126 

Forrest Falls, N Y , 2<l] 

Fort Holmes, .Mich.. 316. 

Fortification Rock. Wis., 322. 

Fort Lee, N.Y., 135. 

Port Mackinaw, Mich., 316. 

Port Moultrie, S.C., 29l. 

Portress Monroe, Va., 239, 

Port Pohit, Me., 79. 

Port Pownal, Me., 79. 

Fort Pulaski, Ga . i;ii2 

Port Ripley. S.C, 2,)1. 

Fort Snelhng, Minn., 334. 

Port Trumbull Conn., 130. 

Port Tryon, N.Y., 1.15. 

Port Washington. N.Y., 135. 

Port William Henry Hotel, N.Y., 177 

Fountain Cave. Minn., 334. 

Pox River, Wis., 328. 

Franconia Mountains. N.H., 35, 49 50 

Franconia Notch. N H.. 48. 

Fraukinstein Clllf, N. H., 88. 

Franklin Mt., N.H.. 30, 32. 

Franklin, Penn.. 210. 

Predericton, New Brunswick, 96. 

Prontenao, Minn., 336. 

Frost's Point. N.H., 69. 

Pr^'eburg, Me., S4. 

Pulton Lake. N.Y., 182. 

Gainesville, Ga., 298. 

Ganoga Falls, Penn.. 186. 

Garden of the Atlantic Coast, Del., 233 

Garden of tlie Gods, Col., 340. 

Gas Spring, N.Y., 210. 

Genesee Canal, N.Y., 208. 

Genesee Falls, N.Y., 202. 

Geneva Lake, Wis., 322. ' 

Georgia Railway, 298. 

Georgetown, Col., 340. 

Gettysburg, Penn., 250, 257. 

Geyser Basins, Mon., 341. 

Giant Caiion of the Yellowstone, Mon., 313 

Giant Geyser, Mon., 341. 

Gibbs Palls, N.H.. 91. 

Gibraltar Mount, Penn., 218. 

Gilmauton, N.H., 39. 

Ginger Cake Rock, N.C., 296. 

Glade Spring Station, Va., 304. 

Glen Ellis Falls, N.H.. 72, 93 

Glen ExceL<ior, N. Y., 263. 

Glen Flora Mineral Springs, Wis., 322. 

Glen House, N.H., 72, 87, 93. 

Glen Mountain House. N.Y. (cut 166). 

Glen Onoko, Penn., 154. 

Gloucester, Mass., 06, 67. 

Glen Station, N.H., 87. 



351 



Glen Thomas, Perm, (cut), 161. 

Godbald's Mineral Wells, Miss., 307. 

Goodrich Falls, N.II.,72. 

Gordonsville, Va., 'Sii. 

Gorhaiu, N.ll., 92. 

Go.'ihiMi, N.Y.. mo. 

Grand Central Dciiot, N.Y. (eut), 129, 193, 
197. 

Grandfather Bull Kails. Wis , 321. 

Grand Rapids and Indiana Itailroad, 31.'>. 

Grand Tiaverse Hay. Mich., 310. 

Grand Traverse Rej;ioii, Mich., 31.5. 

Grand Trunk Kailw;i .•. 92, 119. 

Grass Lake, .Mich., 31 r. 

Grass Itivor, Mich., 317. 

Grav's Peak, Col., 340. 

Great Kails of the Csitawba. N.C., 29«. 

Great Falls, N.II., 70. 

Great Geyser Springs, Cal., :i46. 

Great Shoshone Falls, Idaho, '.Hi. 

Great .Southern Mail Route, 289. 

Green Bav, Wis., .330. 

Greenbrier Kiver, Va., 281 (cut 282, Kan- 
awha). 

Greenbrier White Suiphur Springs, Va. 
(cut), 280. 

Green (Jove Springs. Fla., 292. 

Green Lake, Minn., 3.36. 

Green Lake. Wis., 326. 

Green Lakes, xV.Y., 198. 

Green Mountains, Vt., 171. 

Green Kidge, I'enn., 163. 

Greensboro', X.C, 294. 

Green Springs. Fla., 293. 

Greenville, N.C., 296. 

Greenwood Lake, N.Y.,204. 

Greenwood Springs, Miss., 307. 

Gretna, La., 300. 

Greylock Mt , Mass., 121, 124. 

Griffith's Knob, Va., 277. 

Gulf Shell Road, Ala., 299. 

Hain's Falls, N.Y., 140. 

HalUax, E.P., 96. 

Hamilton and Dayton Railroad, 315. 

Hampton Junction, N.J., 145. 

Hampton, N'.H., 60, 68. 

Hampton, Va., 2.39. 

Hancock, Mich., 331. 

Hanging Rock, N.C., 296. 

Hannah's Hill, NY.. 170. 

Hanover Junction, Penn., 257. 

Hanover, Wis., 332. 

Harbor and Coastwise Excursions, 21. 

Harlem Railroad, 119. 

HaiTiet Lake. Minn., 334. 

Harrisburg, Penn., 145, 251 (cut 259). 

Harrison, Me., 82. 

Harrodsburg Springs, Ky., 308. 

Hart's Ledges, S.H., 12. 

Harvard, Wis., .3.32. 

Harvey's Lake, Penn., 182. 

Harwick Lake, N.Y., 207. 

Havana Glen. N.Y., 263. 

Haverhill, .Mass.. 41. 

Haverhill, N.H , 51. 

Haverstraw, X.Y., 135. 

Havre de Grace, Md., 238. 

Hawk's Bill, N.C., 296. 

Hawk's Nest Mount, Va., 271. 

Hawley, Penn., 160. 206. 

Haystack Mount, Vt., 125. 

Healing Spring, S.C, 290. 

Healing Springs, Va., 277, 279. 

Hensonville, K .Y., 138. 



Herdic House, Pei-.n., 260. 

Hermitage, Tenn., 313. 

Herndon, Penn. (cut), 224. 

Hewitt Lake, Mich , 316. 

Hickory Nut Gap, N.C., 295. 

Ili.;,'li Falls. N.Y., 205. 

HiKhirate Springs, Vt., 121. 

Highland Lake, Penn., 17, 186. 

High Peak, N.Y., 141. 

iiiilslioro", N.C., 294. 

llingham, Mass., 98. 

Hints to Tourists, 23. 

Holston Springs, Va., 304. 

Hook.sett Mr)unt, 35. 

Hoosac Mount, .Mass., 123. 

Iloosac Tunnel, Mass., 123. 

Horicon I^ake, Wis., 322. 

Hor Mount, Vt., 03. 

Horse Shoe Kalis, N.V., 208. 

Hot .Springs, Ark., 307. 

Hot .Springs, Utah, 314. 

Hot .Spiings, Va., 277, 279. 

Houghton, .Mich., 331. 

Howard's Creek, Va., 281. 

Howe's Cave, N.Y., 171. 

Hudson Highlands, N.Y., 194. 

Hud.son Kailroad. 119. 

Hudson Ijiver, V.'A, 179. 

Hunter. N.Y.. 137, 140. 

Hmiter's Mount, N.Y., MO. 

Hunter's Glen, X.Y., 140. 

Huntington, W. Va. (cut 288). 

Huntsville, Ala., 306. 

Huron Islands, Lake Superior, 3:52. 

Hyannis, Mass.. 100. 

Hygeia Hotel, Va., 240. 

Idaho Springs, Dakota 'Per., .340. 

Indian Cave, Ky., :tl2. 

Indian Rock, Ky., 3 2. 

Indian Springs, Ga., 298. 

Inside Line, 21. 

Intermediate Lake, Mich., 316. 

Intermittent Scalding Spring, Cal., .346. 

International and ( jreat .N'orthern R. R., 308. 

International Bridge, N.Y., 209. 

Iowa. 23. 

Iron .and Sulphur Springs, Cal., 346. 

Irvington, N Y., 193. 

Irsington Park, Wis., 332. 

Isle Royal, Lake .Superior, 331. 

Isles of Shoals. N.H., 66, 69. 

Ithaca. N.Y. ,207. 

Ithaca Falls, N.Y., 201. 

luka, Ala., .306. 

Jackson's Kiver. Va.. 278. 

Jacksonville, Kla., 292. 

James River, Va.. 2iO, 278. 

Jamestown, N.Y.. 210. 

Jay Peak, Vt., 64. 

Jefferson Mount, Penn., 152. ' 

Jefferson, K.H., 55. 

Jerry's Run, Va., 299. 

Johnson's Wells, Ala., 306. 

Jones Falls, Md., 257. 

Jones Lake, Pen'n. (cut), 167. 

Juniata River, 251. 

Kalkaska, Mich., 316. 

Katahdin Mount, Me., 95. 

Katama Bay, Mass., 108. 

Kauterskill Falls, N.Y., 137. 

Kearsarge, N.H., 119. 

Keeseville, N.Y., 179. 

Kennebec River, Me.. 27. 

Kentucky Centi'al Railway, 309. 



352 



Kewenaw Point, Mich., 331. 

ICiarsarge (Pequawket), N.H., (cut 86), 119. 

Killinaiton Peak, Vt., 12-1. 

Kimball House. Atlanta, Ga., 299. 

Kineo Mount. Me., 95. 

King's Mount. N.C., 296. 

Kingston, JS'.Y., 137, 205. 

Kingston, Il.l., 128. 

Kitchen Creek, Penn., 186. 

Kitteiy, Me., GO. 70. 

Knowille and Charleston Uailroad, 305. 

Knoxville. Tenn., 305. 

Koshonong Lake. Wis.. 322. 

Laoliine Uiipids. Can.. 65. 

Lackawanna and Uloomsburg Railroad. 
Penn., 163, 164. 1S6. 229. 

Lackawanna Valley House, Penn., 164. 

Lackawa.xen, Penn.. 200. 

Lack's Springs, N.C., 289. 

Laconia. X.H.. 39 (cut 40). 

Lady of the Lake, steamer (out), 44. 

Laf.-ivette Mountain. X.H., 32, 49. 

Lake Dells, Wis.. 323. 

Lake de Xeveu. Minn., 336. 

Lake George. Fla., 292. 

Lake George. N.Y.. 177. 

Lake .Miohig.an, 316. 

Lake of the Isles. .Mhui., 334. 

Lake Pontohartrain. La., 299. 

Lake Shore and Michigan Southern Rail- 
road. 210. 

Lake Tahoe. Cal , 345. 

Liike Village. N.H., 41. 

Lake Zurich House, Wis., 323. 

Allesiash, ^[e., 95. 
Ashiev, Mass., 123. 
Biss, Mich., 316. 
Beech. X.V., 1S2. 
Berry (Pond), Mass., 123. 
Betsev, INlich., 310. 
Big Moose, X.Y.. 182. 
Blue Mountain, X.Y., 182. 
Bouiaseen, Vt.. 125. 
Buttes des Mortes, Wis., 328. 
Calhoun, Minn. oU. 
Canandaigua, N.Y., 202, 
Caucomgomosis, Me., 95. 
Caucomgouiue, Me., 95. 
Cautei-sliill. N.Y., 139. 
Cayuga, N.Y., 200. 
Cazenovia, N.Y., 198. 
Cedar Lake, Miun., 316, 334. 
Champlain, 178. 
Chautauqua. X.Y., 210. 
Chesuncook, Me,, 95. 
Clam, Mich., 316. 
Colden, N.Y., ISO. 
Couio, Minn.. 334. 
C'onneaut, Penn., 210. 
Connecticut, N H , 56, 93. 
Contoooook, X.U., 122. 
Crooked, or Kouka, N.Y., 202. 
Crooked, Mich . 310. 
Croton, K.Y"., 193. 
Crystal, Blimi., 334. 
Dain.ariscotta, Me., 95. 
Delaware, N J., 234. 
De Xeveu. Minn , 336. 
Devil's, Wis., 322. 
Diamond, Mich., 316. 
Douner, Cal. , 345. 
Dunmore, Vt., 125. 
Eagle, N.Y., IS2. 



Echo Lake, N.H., 49. 

Elkhart, Minn., 330. 

Fife, Mich.. 316. 

Fulton, N.Y., 182. 

G«neva. N.Y., 322. 

George, Fla., 293. 

George, N.Y., 177, 

Grass, Mich, 317. 

Green, iMuni., 336. 

Green, N.Y., 198. 

Greenwood, N.Y'., 205. 

Harriet. Minn., 3;U. 

Hartwick, N.Y'., 207. 

Harvev, N.Y., 182. 

Hewitt, Mich., 316. 

Highland, Penn.. 186. 

Horicon, Wis., 322. 

Intermediate. Mich.. 316. 

Jones, Penn. (cut), 167. 

Koshkonong, Wis , 322. 

Lake of the Isles. Minn., 334. 

Lawson's, JST.Y''.. 174. 

Little Tupper, Is Y., 181. 

Long, Mich., 316. 

Long, N.Y"., 181. 

Long (Pond), N.H., 35, 45. 

Macopin, NY''., 205. 

IMahopac, X.Y., 193. 

Melville, Mass., 123. 

Memphremagog. Vt., 51, 64 

Michigan, 322. 

Minnetonka. Minn., 334. 

Mohonk, X.Y , 205. 

Jloosehead. Me , 73, 95. 

Newfound, N.H., 119. 

North Branch. N Y., 182. 

Old Man's Wash-Bowl, N H., 49. 

Oneida, X.Y , 198. 

Onondaga, N.Y., 200. 

Quota, JMass., 123. 

Ossipee Lake, N.H., 71. 

Otisco, N.Y'., 200. 

Otsego, N.Y""., 170, 207. 

Owasco, N.Y'.. 2U0. 

I'aradox Pond. X.Y., 181. 

Pepin, jNIinn.. 333. 

Pepin, Wis., 321. 

Pewaukee. Wis.. 329. 

Pinnacle Lake. Cau., 65. 

Placid. N.Y.. 181. 

Pontchartraiu, La , 299. 

Pontoosuc, iVIass., 123. 

E.angeley, Me.. 73, 94. 

Baquette. N.Y., 181. 

Rockl.and, X.Y"., 193. 

Round, Mich., 316. 

Eoiuid, X.Y.. 181. 

Rose, Blieh., 316. 

San-cha-ean-tack-et, Mass., 118. 

Saranac (.upper), N.Y"., 181. 

Saranac (lower), N.Y'., 180. 

Schroon. N.Y.. 181. 

Schuyler's, X.Y"., 170. 

Sebago, Me., SO. 

Seclusion. Tenn.. 206. 

Seiuinaiv, X.Y., 207. 

Seneca, X.Y"., 201. 

Silver. ]Mass., 123. 

Skaueateles, X.Y., 200. 

Sodom, N.Y"., 198. 

Squam, N.H., 45. 

St. Catherine, Vt., 125. 

Superior, 331. 

Sylvan, Mass., 123. 



363 



Lakes, continued : — 

Tahoe, Cal , 345. 

Thunder, Mich.. 314. 

Torch, Mich , 316. 

Tiavevse. Mich., 316. 

Tapper (Big), N.Y., 181. 

Twin Lukes. Miim., 334, 

Uinb.-igog, Me., 72. 

Utowana. N.Y., 182. 

Wachusett, Mass., 121, 

Waiikaw.an, N H.. .35. 

Wawavaiidah, N.Y., 205. 

White Bear, Minn., 334. 

Willoughby, Vt., 63. 

Winnebago, Wis., 322. 

Winnepesaukee, N.U ., 35. 

Winnesqiiam, N.H., 35. 

Zui ich. Wis., 322. 
J^ancastev House, N.H. (cut), 63. 
L.anc.aster, N.H. (cut), 54. 
Lancaster, I'eim., 219. 
Lauderdale .Springs, Miss., 307. 
Lawrence, Mass , 3:i. .37, 43. 
Lawson's Lake, N.Y., 174. 
Leather-Stocking Cave, N.Y., 170. 
Leb.anon Springs, Mass., 124. 
Lebanon "Valley Kaihoad, 219. 
Lehigh and Susquehanna Railroad, 142. 
Lehigh Valley (cuts), 144, 157. 
l.,eliigh Valley Railroad. 142, 262. 
Levaua Springs, N.Y., 201. 
Lewis .Mineral Spring, N.C., 289. 
Lexington, N.Y., 137. 
Lexington, Va , 276, 302. 
Liberty, Va., 302. 
LinnviJIe Fa\U. N.C., 295. 
Lisbon. N H.. .51. 
Little Boar's Head, N.H., 66, 68. 
Little F.alls, N.Y.,195. 
Little Schuvlkill River, Penn., 219. 
Little Stony Falls. Va., 30.'J. 
Littleton, N.H., 49. 51 (cut 52). 
Little Traverse, Mich., 316. 
Littonian Springs, Ky., 30K. 
Lit/. Spring. Penn., 219. 
Livermore FalLs, N.H. (cut), 48. 
Lock Haven, Penn., 229. 
Lockport, N.Y., 203. 
Logan House. Penn. (cut'), 252. 
Long Branch, N.J., 182, 231. 
Long Island Sound, 131. 
Long Ijake, Mich., 316. 
LongL.ake,N.Y., 181. 
Long's I'eak,Col.,340. 
Long Pond. Mo., 82. 
Lookout Mt., Tenn,, 298, 305. 
Loretto, Penn., 254. 

Louisville and Great Southern Route, 308. 
Louisville, Cincinnati, and Lexington Rail- 
road, 3:iy. 
Louisville, Ky., 308. 
Lowell Isl.and, Mass., 66. 
Lowell, Mass., 37. 
Lower Saranac Lake, N.Y., 180. 
Lynchburg, Va., 301. 
Lyons Falls, N.Y., 196. 
Mackinaw. Mich., 24, .314, 316. 
Macon anil Western Railway, 298. 
M.acopin L;ike,N.Y., 205. 
Madison, Wis.. 332. 
Madison Springs, Ga., 29S. 
Magnetic Spring, Mich., 314. 
Magnetic Spring. 5Iinn., 336. 
Magog, Can., 64. 



Mahanoy Plane. I'cnii. (cut), 222. 

Mahoimc Lake, N.Y., 193. 

Maiden Rock. Minn., 336. 

Maine Cential Railroad, 73,94. 

Mainville Water Gap, Penn. (cut), 227. 

Manatawny Creek, Penn., 218. 

Manchester, N.H.. 33, 37. 

Manchester, Vt., 124. 

Manitou Island, Lake Superior, 332. 

Manitou Springs, Col.. 340. 

Mansfield Mt..Vt.. 120. 

Mansion House, Mauch Chunk, Penn., 149. 

Mansion House, Mount Carbon, Penn., 221. 

Maplewood Hotel (cut), 57. 

Marblchead, Mass.. 66. 

Marcy (Tahanius), N.Y., 180. 

.Margaretsvillo, N.Y., 138. 

Marquette, Houghton, and Ontonagon KaU- 
road, 331. 

Marquette. Wis., 331. 

Marshall House, Ga., 292. 

Marshlield, Mass., 99. 

Massaunikeag Hotel, Me., 79. 

Mattakeset Lodge, .Mass. (cut), 114. 

Mattawanikeag, Me., 05. 

Mauch Chunk (cut), 148. 

Mayville. N.Y.. 210. 

Mclntire Mt., N.Y., 180. 

McMartin Mt., N.Y. ,180. 

Meadville, Penn., 210. 

Medicated Geyser Bath Springs, Cal., 348. 

Megunticook Peaks, .Me., 79. 

Melville Lake, Mass.. 123. 

Memphis and Charleston Railroad, 306. 

Memphis and Little Kock Kailroad, 308. 

Memphis, Tenn., 307. 

Memphremagog Lake, Vt., 51, 64. 

Menaslia. Wis. , 328. 

Mendota Lake, Wis , 332. 

Merced River, Cal., 346. 

Meredith. N.H., 39,45. 

Merrimack River, 31. 

Metaire, La , 300. 

Michigan, 23, 314. 

Michigan, Lake. .322. 

Middle Falls, N.Y., 208. 

Middle States, 133. 

Middletown, Del , 234. 

Middletown, N. Y., 205. 

Middletown Springs, Vt., 125. 

Midland Magnetic Springs. Mich., 314. 

Millbrook, N.Y., 138. 

Miller's Falls, Mass., 119. 

Miller's Ferrv, Va. (cut), 286. 

Mills House.S.C, 291. 

Milton. Penn.. 229. 

Milwaukee. Lake Shore, and Western Rail- 
road. 323. 

Milwaukee, Wis., 323. 

Mineral Springs, Ala., 306. 

Mineral Sprhigs, Miss., 307. 

MinenU Springs, Wis., 329. 

Minnehaha Falls, Minn.. 334. 

Minnequa Springs, Penn., 261. 

Minnesota, 23, 334. 

Minnetonka Lake, Minn., 334. 

Minnow Island, Can., 64. 

Missisqnoi Springs. Vt., 121. 

Mitchell's Pea' , N.C., 296. 

Mobile, Ala ,299. 

Mobile .and .Montgomery Railroad, 299. 

Mobile and Ohio Kailroad, 306. 

Mohawk Kiver, N.Y., 195. 

Mohawk Vjillev, N.Y., 171. 



354 



Mohegaii.Gleii, N.Y., 207. 

Mohoiik Lake. X.Y.. 105. 

Mouadiiouk. N".H , 122. 

Monoktoii. E.V , £6. 

Monocacy Creek, Penu., 218. 

Monona Lake, Wis., 332. 

Montana Ter , 341. 

IMontgomery, Ala., 200. 

Montgomery White Sulphur Sprmgs, Va., 

3ii2 
Montreal. 63. 

ISIontvale Svmng, Tenn., 305. 
Moor Mount, NY., 180. 
Moosehead Lake. Me., 73.95. 
Moosehorn Mt.. Vt, 12.5 
Moosle.Mt Highlands, renn. (cut), 166, 168. 
Moosilauke, N.H. (cut), 50. 
Moresville, N.Y., 138. 
Mor2;inton, X.C., 295. 
Moriah, N.H., 93. 
Morris and Esse.\ Railroad, 1-15. 
Jlorristown, Penu , 21G. 
JIoss Uun, Va , 279. 
Mountain House, Canada. C-t. 
Mountain House, I'enn., 253. 
Sloiint Carbon, Penn. (f ut), 220. 
Mount Desert, Jle,6j, 73, 78. 
Mount Hayes, N.K , 92. 
Mount Kiiieo, Me., 95. 
Mount Kineo House, Me., 95. 
Mount KatahiUn, Me , 95. 
Mount Lincoln. Col., 340. 
Mount Morrill. Vt.,64. 
Mount Olive, X.C., 289. 
Mount Pleasant, iJe , 84. 
Mount St. Helena, Cal., 345. 
Mount Tom, Mass , 123. 
Mount Vision, N.Y., 170. 
Mount Washington, 61. 
Mount Washington Uailway (cut 62), 90. 
jMount Washington River. N.H., 88. 
^^ount AVashington Summit House, 62. 
Mount Wasliington Turnpike, C3, 90. 
Mount Whiteface, N.H., 72. 
Mount Whiteface, N.Y., 180. 
Mount Wliiteside, X.C , 296. 
Sloyer's iJock. Penn , 155. 
Mountain Valley Springs, Ark., 307. 
Moutitaitis: — 

Abraham, ^fe.,94. 

Adams. X. H ,30. 

Adirondack, NY., 171. 

Alleghanv. Penn . 253. 

Annanan'ce ( Willoughbv), Vt., 63. 

Bald, X.C ,297. 

Bear, Vt , C4. 

Bear (cut JIauch Chunk), 150 

Belknap, X H..41. 

Berkshire (imis), Mass., 123. 

Blackberrv, Can.,C5. 

Black Head. XY.. 141. 

Black. X'.C. 295. 

Blue. Jle., 94. 

Blue, XY, 180. 

Blue Uidge. Va., 274. 

Bread- Loaf, Vt., 125. 

Cfesar's Head, X.C, 296. 

Camel's Hump. Vt., 120. 

Carter. X.H.. 'J3. 

Catskill, X.Y., 133. 

Chocorua, X.H., 30, 71. 

Clav, X.H., 30. 

Chnton, X.IL, 30. 

Colden, X.Y , 180. 



Cove (Hill), X.Y., 180. 

Crosby, X.H. ,119. 

Crowders Knob, X.C. 296. 

Cumberland, Teun , 3(:4. 

Dial. X.Y., ISO. 

Di.K's Peak, X.Y., ItO. 

Elephantis, Can., C4. 

Elliot's Knob, Va., 276. 

Equuiox. Vt., 124. 

Fianconia, X.H., 35, 30. 

Fianklin Mt., X.H., 30, 32. 

Gibraltar, Penn , 218. 

Ginger Cake Rock, X.C, 296. 

Grevloek. Mass . 121, 124. 

Griffith Knob, Va., 277. 

Gray's Peak, Col., 340. 

Hayes, X.H.. 92. 

Havstack. Vt.. 125. 

Hawk's Bill, N C , 296. 

H.awk's Xest. Va , 271. 

High Peak. X.Y., 141. 

Holyoke, Mass., 123. 

Hoosac, Mass., 123. 

Hor. Vt.. C'i. 

Hunter, X Y., 140. 

Jackson, X H , 30. 

Jefferson, X.H.. ,30. 

Jeffereon, Penn., 152. 

Jav (Peak). Vt , 6i. 

Katahdin Mt , Me., 95. 

Kearsarge, K.H., 119, 30. 

Kiai-sarge (Pequawket), X.H. (cut 86), 

119. 
Killington (Peak), Vt., 124. 
Kineo, Jte , 95. 
King's Mount. X.C, 296. 
Lafayette, X.H.. 32, 49. 
Lincoln, Col., 340. 
Long's Peak, Col.. 340. 
Lookout, Tenn., 298, 305. • 
Madison, X.H.,30. 
Manmioth Cave, Ky., 309. 
M.-iustield, Vt., 120. 
Marcv (Tahamus), X.Y., 180. 
Mclntire, X.Y.. ISO. 
McMartin. X.Y., 180. 
Megunticook (Peaks), Me., 79. 
MitcheU's Peak, X.C, 296. 
Monadnock. X.H., 122. 
Mouroe. X.H.,30. 
Moor, X.Y., 180. 
Moosehorn, Vt., 125. 
Moosic (Highlands'!. Penn.. 16C, 168. 
Moosilauke, X.H.,'30 (cut 50). 
Moriah, X.H.. 93. 
Moniil. Vt , 61. 
Lyon, X.H., 55. 
Xeversink, Penn., 218. 
Xippleton. X.Y., ISO. 
North, X.Y., 139. 
Xorth, Penn., 17. 
North, Va., 276. 
Oqnago. N.Y., 207. 
Orforci, Vt.. 04. 
Ossipee, X.H , 71. 
Overlook, X.Y.. 137. 
Owl's Head, X.H. (cut), 50. 
Owl's Head. Canada, 64. 
Petenwell Peak Wis., 321. 
Pleasant Mt . Me., 84. 
Pleasant, N H., 39. 
Peaks of Otter. Va , 271, 302. 
Pequawket (Kiai-sarge), X.H. ,72, 84,119. 
Penn, Penn., 218. 



INDEX. 



356 



Uounfainn, contiinicd: — 

Percy C Stratford) Peaks, N.H., M, 93. 

PikeV Peak. .UO. 

Pilot, N.O , 2!)4. 

Pilot U.iiigo. N H., 55. 

Pino Grove, N.Y.. loD. 

Pinnacle, Can.. G5. 

Pinnacle Rock, N.C.. 237. 

Pisgah, I'eini., 143, i'o2. 

Pro'.ilo, N H..3D 

Pro.-.pect(nill), Vt.,Ol. 

Prospect, N.U., 48. 

Pulaski Alo.nit, Va., 03. 

Haggcd. N.IL, 45. 

Ue<lllill,N H., 41. 

Iiock, Ga , a!)7. 

Roitnil Toi). N Y.. Ml. 

SaildloUick, Mo ,04. 

Sa^cr- Warner, N.Y., 174. 

Saiiida, N.C., 2!)G. 

Sandwich, N.U.. 71. 

Scwanl, N.Y., 189. 

Sliawiui'junk, N.Y.. 205. 

Sky Top f Peak) N.Y., 205. 

Soutli. N.Y.. \:;y. 

StarrKi-.i-T, N.FI., 55. 

St. Catlierine, Vt., 123. 

Sterling, Vt.. 120. 

St. Ilelona. (;al,313. 

Stool. N.O.. 20r. 

Stratford (Percy) Peaks, N.H., 55, 93. 

Sugar- Loaf. N.U , U9. 

Sulpbni-, Mon., 343. 

Surprise, N.ll., 93. 

T.able, N.C.,2'.>3. 

Table Kock, N.C., 29C. 

Tom, JIasa., 123. 

VViicliusett. Mass., 121. 

Wanbington. Mass., 12.'5. 

Washington. N.H., 30. 

Wawayandali, N.V..205. 

White Mountains. N.ll., 3.3. 

Webster, N.Il.,33,88. 

Willard. X.II..88. 

Willey.N.If., 88. 
Mud Gevsor, Mon., 31.3. 
Mud Volcano, M(,.n., 343. 
Munifordsville, Ivy., 309. 
Nahant, Mass., 00. 
Nancy '.s Brook, N.II.. 88. 
Nanlaskct 15eacli, Mass., n«. 
Nanticoto Drancli Ilailroad, Penn., 103. 
Nanticote, Peini., It3. 
Nantucket, Mass., 102. 
Nan-agansoit D.ay, II. 1., 128. 
NaiT.a;jransctt Pier, U.I., 128. 
Niuslivillo. Chattanooga, and St. Louis Rail- 
road, 305. 
Naahvill',!, Ivy.. 31.3. 
National Hotel (First), Wis., 330. 
National Hotel, Wis , 228. 
National Militaiy Home, Va.,233. 
N.atural Briilge. V;i., 271, 302. 
Natural Tunnel, V.a., .301. 
Nayang Fidls, Peini. (cut), 105. 
Neonah, Wis.. 328. 
Nescopec IJninch R.ailroad, l.")8. 
Neseopec Junction. Penn., 158. 
Ncsqueboning Valley Br.aiicURaili-oad, 157. 
New Bedford, Maus., 33, 107. 
New Brunswick, IC.P., 90. 
Newbury, Vt., 51. 
Newburyport. Mass., OS. 
Nevereiiik Mt., Penn., 218. 



New Castle, N.H., 69. 

New England, 20. 

Newfound Lake, N.H., 119. 

Newfound River. NIL, 119. 

Newliall House, Wis., 323. 

New llanipshire, 27. 

New Ilaveu, Conn., 130. 

New London, Coini.. 1.30. 

New London Northern Railroad, 119. 

New Orleans, La., 200. 

Newport, R 1., 3:(, 104. 

Newport, Vt., 01, 01, G4. 

New River, Vii. (cut). 283. 

New River Rapids, Va. (cut). 285 

Newbuiy Sulphur Springs. Vt., 01. 

New York and Canada Railro;id, 142, 177. 

New York Centi'al and Iluilson Itiver Rail- 
road, 130, 130, 174, 103. 

Jfew York City, 133. 

iNCW York, Kingston, and Syracuse Rail- 
road, l."0, 137. 

Niagara Falls, N.Y., 203, 207. 

Nickei'son House, S C, 290. 

Ninoveli Branch Itailroad, 109. 

Nipplaton Mount, N.Y., 180. 

Northampton, Mass., 123. 

North Bridgton, Me , 82. 

North Branch Lake, N.Y., 182. 

Norlh Conway, N H , 70, 72 (cut), 85. 

Northern Central Railro.ad, 201, 207, 229, 
2.-)0 255. 

Northern Railroad, 119. 

North Mountain, N.Y., 1.30, 229. 

Norih Mountain, Penn , 181. 

North Mountain, Vji., 270. 

North Mountain Ilouiie, Penn., 163, 182, 
(cut), 1.^3. 

North Mountahi View (cut), 190. 

North Pennsylvania Railroad, 142. 

Nova Scotia, K. P., 96. 

Nortluuiiberland, N.II., 55. 

North-West, 23. 

Oak Bluffs, Mass., 103. 

Oak Orchard Aci<l .'Springs, N.Y., 202. 

Oakion Springs, Wi<., 320. 

Oakwood House, Wis. (cutj, 320. 

Occiin House, Me., 78. 

Ogden, Utah, 314. 

Ogdensburg, N.Y., 119, 178. 

Ohio Itiver (cut 2. 8). 

Oil City, Penn., 210. 

Olil Ooniinion Steamship Company, 241, 271. 

QUI Colony Railroad, 97. 

Old Colony Steamboat Company, 105. 

OKI Man of the Mountain, N.ll., 49. 

Old Man's W.-i^h-Bowl, N.H., 49. 

Old Orchard, Me.. tO. 70, 7.!. 

Old Point Comfort, Va., 239. 

Old .Sweet Springs, Va . 280, 302. 

Omaha. 340. 

Oneida Lake, N.Y., 198. 

Onondaga Lake, N.Y., 200. 

Onota I.,ake, Mass., 123. 

Oquago Mount, N.Y., 207. 

Orange anil Ale.xa'ndrhi liailroad, 274. 

Or.'ingeburg, S.C , 290. 

Orlbi-d. Mount, Vt., 04. 

Oshkosh. Wis.. 32S. 

Ossipee Falls, N H., 71. 

Ossipeo Lake, N.H., 71. 

Ossii)ee Mount, N.H . 71. 

Oswego Midl.-UHl Kailroad, 198. 

Otisco Lake, N.Y., 20;). 

Otsego Lake, N.Y., 170, 207. 



356 



Otter Ponds, Me., 82. 

Overlook Mount. N.Y., 137. 

Owasco Lake, N.Y., 200. 

Owego Lake, N.Y., 207. 

Owl's Head Mount, Can., 64. 

Owl's Head, N H. (cut), 150. 

Painted Rock, N.C., -'96. 

Painted Kock, N.Y., 207. 

Panacea Springs, N.C., 289. 

Panther Gap, Va , 276. 

Panther's Leap, N.Y., 170. 

Paradox Poud, N.Y., 181. 

Parrot House, N.Y., 1/4. 

Pascagoula, Miss.. 299. 

Passaconaway, N.H., 71. 

Passaic Falls, jST.J., 204. 

Pass Christian, Miss., 299. 

Passumpsic l{ai!road, Vt., 33, 51, 63. 

Paterson, N.J., 204. 

PaviUon Hotel, N.Y., 171. 

Peabody Rivei, N.H., 93. 

Peach Gathering, Del. (cut), 234. 

Peaks of Otter, Va., 271, 302. 

Peekskill, N.Y., 135. 

Pemigewasset House, 47. 

Pemigewasset Uiver, N.H., 35, 4fi. 

Penn Haven, Penn., 158. 

Perm Mount, Penn., 218. 

Pensaukee House, Wis., 330. 

Pensaukee, Wis., 330. 

Pennsylvania Coal Company's Gravity 

Railroad, 1 4. 
Pennsylvania Railroad, 242. 
Penobscot Uiver, Me., 79. 
Pepin Lake, Minn , 345. 
Pequot, Conn., 130. 
Pequawket Mount (Klarsarge), N.H., 72, 

84, 80, 110. 
Pequannock River, N.Y., 204. 
Perkiomen Creek, Penn.. 217. 
Petenwell Peak, Wis., 321. 
Petersburg and Weldon Railroad, 289. 
Petrea Island, N.Y., 194. 
Petiitied Forest, Cal., 345. 
Pewaukee Lake, Wis., 329. 
Pewaukee, Wis., 328. 
Philadelphia, 142, 210. 
Philadelphia and Erie Railroad, 229. 
Philadelphia and Heading Raili'oad, 214. 
Philadelphia, Wilmington, and Baltimore 

Railroad, 233. 
Phillips. Me., 94. 
Phillipsburg, N. J., 145. 
Phoenicia, N.Y., 137. 
Phoenixville, Penn., 217. 
Pictou, E.P., 96. 
Pictured Rocks, 24. 
Piedmont Air Line Raih-oad, 289, 294. 
Piedmont Springs, N.C, 295. 
Piermont, N.Y., 135. 
Pigeon Cove, Mass., 66, 68. 
Pike's Peak, Col., 340. 
Pilot Mount, N.C., 294. 
Pilot Range, 55. 
Pilot Rock, Ivy., 312. 
Pine Hill, N.Y., 138. 
Pine Orchard Mount, N.Y., 139. 
Pine River, Mich., 315. 
Pinkham Notch, N.H.. 72, 87, 03. 
Pinnacle Lake, Can., 65. 
Pinn.acle Mount, Can., 65. 
Pinnacle Mount, N.C. , 297. 
Pisgah Mount, Penn., 148, 152. 
FittstOJi, Penn., 163. 



Pittsfleld, Mass., 123. 
Pittstield. N.H.,37. 

I'ittsburg. Cincinnati, and St. Louis Rail- 
road, 315. 
Pittsburg, Penn., 254. 
Placid Lake, N.Y., 181. 
Plains of Chalniette, La , 3C0. 
Plankinton House, Wis., 32;H. 
Plattekill Clove, N.Y., J40. 
Plattekill Ravine, N.Y., 137. 
Plattsbura, N.Y., 178. 
Pleasant Mount, N.H., 30, 91. 
I'leasure Itoute No. 1, .33. 
Pleasure Route No. 2, 63. 
Pleasure Route No. 3, 66. 
Pleasure Route No. 4, 73. 
Pleasure Route No. 5, 80. 
Pleasure Route No. 0, 92. 
Pleasure Route No. 7, 94. 
Pleasure Route No. 8, 97. 
Pleasure Route No. 9. 108. 
Pleasure Houto No. 10, 109 
Pleasure Route No. 11, 126. 
Pleasure Route No. 12, 13a. 
Pleasure Route No. 13, 134. 
Pleasure Route No. 14, 142. 
Pleasure Uoute No. 15, 193. 
Pleasure Route No. 16, 204. 
Pleasure Route No. 17, 214. 
Plea?m-e Route No. 18, 232. 
Pleasure Route No. 19, 233. 
Pleasure Route No. 20, 239. 
Pleasure Route No. 21, 242. 
Pleasm-e Route No. 22, 255. 
Pleasure Route No. 23, 272. 
Pleasure Route No. 24, 289. 
Pleasiu-e Route No. 25, 294. 
Pleasm-e Route No. 26, 301. 
Pleasm-e Rout* No. 27, 308. 
Pleasure Route No. 28, 315. 
Pleasure Route No. 29, 320. 
Pleasure Route No. .30, 3.i7. 
Pleasure Route No. 31, .340. 
Pleasure Travel in the Olden Time, 22. 
Pleasant Mount, S.C, 291. 
Plumb Island, Mass., 66, 68. 
Plj'mouth, Mass., 99. 
Plymouth, N.H. (cut 46), 47. 
Point Look-off, Penn., 189. 
Pulaski Alum Springs, Va., 304. 
Pompey's PDlar, Va., 303. 
Pontoosue, Mass., 123. 
Pool (Franconia Mountains), N.H., 49. 
Port Clinton, Penn. , 219. 
Port Deposit. Md., 238. 
Port Kent, N.Y., 179. 
Portage City, Wis., 332. 
Portage Fails, N.Y., 208. 
Portland and Ogdensburg R.R., 72, 80, 121. 
Portland, Me. (cut). 74. 
Poi-tland to Mount Desert, 21. 
Portsmouth, N.H., 69. 
Poteskey, Mich., 316. 
Pottstowu, Penn., 218. 
PottsviUe, Penn , 220. 
Poughkecpsie, N.Y., 194. 
Powder Springs, Ga. , 298. 
Pratt's Rocks, N.Y., 140. 
I'rattsvOle, N.Y., 138. 
Preble House, Me., 75. 
Presumpscot River, Me., 80. 
Presumpseot Valley, Me., 31. 
Princeton, Mass., 121. 
Profile, N.H. ,49. 



:i57 



Profile House, N.vr.. 49, 53. 
Prospect Mount, N H , 48. 
Prospect House, Mass , V£i. 
Prospect Hill, Vt., (i4. 
Prospect Itock (cut), 1.'9, Penii. 
Providence, H.I.. 3;!, 128. 
Provincetowii, Mass., 100. 
I'uuclieon Ilun l''jiUs. Va., 302. 
Pulaski Mount, Vt., C3. 
Pulaski, Vt., G3. 
Pulaski House, Ga.. 292. 
Pulpit Falls, N.Y.. '.'01. 
Quaker Street, N.Y., 174. 
Quebec, 60. 

Quinnesse Falls, Wis., 2'.'1. 
Itajiged Mountniu, N.tl.,4.5. 
Jtailrnnds and SU-imbnntx: — 

Alabama and (;liattanoosa, 298, 306. 

Alab.ania Ontral, 29'.i, ?M. 

Albany and Sus(iueliainia, 142, 109, '207. 

Atlanric and Gr(nt Western, 209, '210. 

Atlantic aiul G'df, 292. 

Atlantic Coast Line, 289. 

Baltimore and Potomac, 2.5.'>. 

Baliimo'-o Stcjim-packet Company (Old 
Bay Line), 2U. 

Belvidere, U!\ 

Boston and Albany, 11'.). 

Boston and Maine; 33, 31, 70, 73, 87. 

Boston and I'rovitleuce, 120. 

Boston, Concord, and Montreal, 33, 70, 
90. 

Bostfui, Lowell, and Nashua, 33, 34, 119. 

Cairo and Knlton, 308. 

Camden and Atlantic, 230. 

Catawissa, 157. 2iV). 

Cazenovia, Canastota, l)e Ruyter, 198. 

Central (New York) and Hudson Kiver, 
13G. 

Central Railroad of New Jersey, 142, 
182, 22.'-.. 

Central Vermont, 119, 196. 

Cbauncey Vibbard 'steamer). 136, 1.39. 

Cherrj' ValU^y Brancb, 171 . 

Obesapeako and Ohio, 272. 

Cheshire. 119. 

Chicago .and North- Western, 320. 

Chicago and .St. Paul Line, 332. 

Cincinnati, Cumberland Gap, and 
Charleston, 30.5. 

Concord. .33. .34. 119. 

Connecticut lliver. 33. 

Conway Br.ancli. 70. 

Cumberland Valley. 2.'54. 

Daniel Drew (steamer), 136, 1.39. 

Delaware and ILulson, 1(>3. 

Delaw.aro, L.'icUawanna, and Western, 
14.5. 161. 171,207. 

Eastern. IGii. 

JIast Peinisylvani.a. 219. 

East-Tennessee and Virginia, 305. 

Erie, 13G, 204, 202. 

European and North American, 96. 

Fitchburs, 119, 121. 

Flint and I'ere Marquette, 314. 

Fran ungham and Lowell, 33. 

Georgia, 290. 

Grand Kapids and Indiana, 315. 

Grand Trunk, .55. 92. 119. 197. 

Great Southern Mail Koute, 289, 301. 

Hamilton and Dayton, 315. 

Harlem, 119. 

Hudson. 119. 

iutematioual and Great Nortliern, 30H. 



James W. H.ddwiu (^.nteamor) , l.!6. 
Kentucky Ceuli.al, :!09. 
Knox ami Lincoln, 7n. 
Kno.xville an<l Charleston, :«)5. 
Lackawanna and I5loomsbur", (i:!, 164, 

186, 229. 
Lady of the Lake (steamer), 4'. 
Lake Shore and Jlichigjin Soutli'Mii,2IO. 
Lebanoi\ Valley, 219. 
Lehigh and .Susciuehainia, 142, 115. 
Lehigh Valley. 143, 145 
Loui.sville and (Jreat Southei'ii Koile, 

308. 
Louisville, Oiuciunati, and I.u.\iii>>U>n, 

308. 
Macon and Westeiii. 298. 
Maine (^ential. 73, 94. 
Manchester and Lawrence, 33. 
Memphis ;ind Charleston, 300. 
Memiibis and Little Hock. 308. 
Mary Powell (steamer). 13(). 
Mai'(iuette, Houghton, ami Ontoii.i^ou, 

.331. 
Milwaukee and St. Paul, 332. 
Milwaukee, Lake .Shore, and Weslmn, 

32:!. 
Mobile and Montgomery. 2s)9. 
Mobile and Ohio, 307. 
Morris and Esse.\-. 145. 
Mount Wasliiiigl.on. 3:!. 
Slount Washington (steamer), 41, 70. 
Nanticote. Penn., IO:t. 
Nashua .and Itochester. .33. 
Nashville, Chalt;iMoog;i, and St. Loid.s, 

305. 300. 
Nescopec Branch. Penn., 1,58. 
Nesciuehoning Xnlli-y l!i;nu'li, 1.57. 
New Loudon NortluiVn, 119. 
New York and (^iniada. 112 177, 
Now York Centrid :nid Hudson Itiver, 

130, 174. 19.'!. 207. 
New York. KingsLou. .uhI .Syracuse, 

1.33, i:'>7. 20.5, 
Nineveh Drnnch, 109. 
Northern, 119. 

Northern Central. 201. 207, 229, 250, 255. 
North Pennsylvania. 142. 
Old Colony, 97. 

Olil Colony Steamboat Co'upany. 1u5. 
Old Dominion Steamship Co., 241, 271. 
Orange and Alexandria, 274. 
Oswego Midland. 198. 
Passumpsic. .33. 51, 63. 
Pennsylvania, 212 

Pennsylvania Coal (!o.'8 Gravity, 164. 
Petersburg and Weldon, 2h9. 
Philiidelphia and Erie. 229. 
Philadelphia and Ueading, 214, 260. 
Philiidelphia, Wihnington, and Italti- 

more, 2.33. 
Piedmont Air l,ine, 2'i9. -.."U. 
Pittsburg, Cinciiniati. St. Loui<. .315. 
Portland and Ogdensburg. 72, 80. 121. 
Portland, B.angor. and Machias, .Mn , 78. 
Portsmouth and Concord, 33. 
Reading and Colundna. 219, 250 
Rensselaer and Saiatoga, 124, 142. 
Rome, VVatertown. and Ogdensburg, 196. 
Sackett's Harbor Branch, i{»6. 
.Saginaw Valley and St. Louis, 31 1. 
Sanford's Independent Lino (steanurrs), 

119. 
Selma. Rome, ni'd ralton. 299. 
Sheboygan anil I'omlibi I. .■><!, 323. 



358 



Railroads and Steamboats, continuea : — 

Sliore Line (cut of Providence Depot), 
]-26. 

Sodiis Point and Southern, 202. 

St. Paul and Pacific. 334. 

Stonington Steamboat Line, 33, 131. 

Suncook Valley. 37. 

Switch-back (Jlauch Chunk, Penn.), 
152. 

Switch-back (Soranton, Penn.), 1G6. 

Thomas Cornell (steamer), 1.36. 

Union .and Central Pacific, 340. 

Utica and Black River. 196. 

Weston .and North Carolina, 295. 

Western and Atlantic, 30G. 

West Jersey, 5.12. 

Wilmington .nnd Reading, 2.37. 

Wilmington and Weldon. 289. 

Wilmington, Charlotte, and Raleigh, 289. 

Worcester and Washington, 3-3. 
Rainbow Falls, X.Y. ;cut), 204. 
Ral.ijih. N.C.,2<I4. 
Ramapo River, N.Y., 204. 
Ramapo Falls, N.Y.. 204. 
Rangeley, Me., 73, 04. 
Raquette L,ake, N.Y.. 181. 
Raquette River, N.Y., 1!*1. 
Rattlesnake Range. N.H., 84. 
Re,ading, Penn., 145. 218. 
Reading and Columbia RaUi-oad, 219, 250. 
Recluse I.^land, N.Y., 178. 
Red Sulphur Springs. Va., 304. 
Red Sweet Springs, Va , 281, .302. 
Red Sulphur Springs. Oa.,2U8. 
Kenova .Springs, Penn., Penn., 260. 
Renssel;ier and Saratoga RaUioad, 124, 142. 
Revere, l\rass. ,06. 
Revere House, Utah, 344. 
Richmojid, Va..270, 
Richnio]id. Ind., 315. 
Richfield Springs, N.T., 170- 
Richmond F.alls, Va. (cut), 283, 
Ridley Station (cut), 236. 
Eingtbwn, Penn., 226. 
Rivers : — 

Androscoggin, 55. 

Ammonoosuc. N.H., 37, 51, 56. 

Ashlev. S.C. 291. 

All Sable. N.Y., 179. 

Baker's, N.H.. 37. 

Cape Fear. N.C.. 290. 

Charles, Mass, 35. 

Chippewa. Minn., 334. 

Cooper, S.C. 291. 

Cow-Pasture. Va., 277 

Fox. Wis , 328. 

Grass, Mich , 317. 

Greenbrier (Kanawha), Va. (cut), 282. 

Hudson, 134. 179. 

Isr-ael's. N.H.. 37. 

James. Va, 270, 278. 

Juniata, Penn., 251. 

Kennebec, Me., 27. 

Merced, Cal.. 346. 

Merrimac, 35. 

Mohawk. -H.Y.. 195. 

Mount Washington, N.H., 88. 

Mystic, Mass. 35. 

Newfound, N.ll , 119. 

New, Va. (cut), 283. 

O'Buf. Minn., 335. 

Ohio (cut). 2S8. 

Peabodv. N.H., 93 

Peniigewasset, N.H., .35, 119. 



Penobscot, Me., 79. 

Pequannock. N.Y"., 204. 

Pine, Mich., 31.5. 

Presumpscot, Me., 80. 

Ramapo, N.Y., 204. 

Raquette, N.Y^, 181. 

Saco, Me., 80. 

Schoharie. NT., 174. 

Schuylkm River, Penn., 214, 219. 

Sho.siione, Idaho, .344. 

Songo, Jle., h2. 

Squam, N.H., 45. 

St. John's River, Fla., 292. 

St. Maurice River, Can., 05. 

Suncook. N.H , 35. 

Susquehanna, Penn. (cut 224), 238,251. 

Thames, Conn., 1.30. 

Tombia, Minn., 335. 

Tuolumne, Cal., 3f6. 

Venango, Peini., 210. 

Warsaw, Ga,, 292. 

Wells, N.H., 37. 

Winnepesauke, N,H., 35. 
Roaring Brook, Penn., 104. 
Rockport, Mass., 06, 08. 
Rock City, N.Y., 209. 
Rochester. N.Y.. 202. 208,267. 
Rocky Falls, N.Y., 201. 
Rocky Point. R.I., 128. 
Rockbridge Alum .Springs. Va. (cut), 276. 
Rockbridge Baths, Va., 276. 
Rock.Ga , 2U7. 
Rodick House. Me., 78. 
Rome, N Y., is 0. 

Rome, W.atertown, and Ogdensburg Rail- 
road, 196. 
Rose Lake, Mich.. 316. 
Round Island. N.Y.. 181. 
Round Lake, N.Y., 181. 
Round Lake, Mich. 316 
Round Top, N.Y., 141. 
Round Island, Can., 64. 
Rouse Point N.Y., 178. 
Rowland's Jlineral Spring, Ga., 298. 
Roxbuiy, N.Y., 138. 
Rupert, Peini , 229. 
Rumford Falls, Me., 92. 
Rustico. P.E.I. , 96. 
Rye, N.H., 06, 69. 
Saco, Me., 80. 

Sackett's Harbor Branch Railroad, 196. 
S.addleback Mt., Me.. 94. 
Sager-Wanier Mt.. N.Y., 174. 
Saginaw V.alley. and St. Louis Railroad, 314. 
Saint Anthonv Falls. 334. 
Saint Paul, Sliini., 334. 
Salamanca, N.Y., 209. 
Salem, Mass., 33. 
Salem, N.C., 294. - 
Salisbury Beach, Mass., 68. 
Salisbury N.C . 2^5. 
Salt Lake Citj-, Utah. 344. 
Salt Lake House, Utah, 344. 
Salt Pond, Va., 303. 
Salt Sulphur Spiings, Va., 304. 
Saluda, N.C. 296. 
Samoset House. Mass.. 99. 
San-cha-can-tack-et Lake, Mass. , 118. 
.Sandwich Mt.,N.H., 71. 
Sanford's Independent Line (steamers), 21. 
Sans Souei Springs. N.Y. , 195. 
Sar.anac Lake (upper), N.Y., 181. 
Saranac Lake dower), N.Y., 181. 
Saratoga Springs, N. Y., 175. 



359 



Savannah, Ga., 2)2. 

Sawkill Falls, N. Y., 235. 

Schenectady, N. Y. , 174, 195. 

Schoharie, N.Y., 174. 

Schoharie lliver, N.Y., 174. 

Schroon Lake.N.Y., 181. 

Schuyle]-'8 Lake, N.Y., 170. 

Schuylkill Haven, Penn., 220. 

SchuylkDl, Penn.. 214, U19. 

Scituate, Mass., 100. 

Scranton Gorge, Penn. (cut). 165. 

Scranton, Penn., 164. 229. 

Scriven House, Ga , 2D2. 

Ssa-View Boulevard, Mass., 117. 

Sea- View House, Mass (cut), 108, 111. 

S3bago Lake, Me., 80 (cut 81). 

Seclusion Lake, Tonn., 306. 

Sslma, Piome, and Dalton Railroad, 299. 

Seminary Lake, N. Y., 207. 

Seneca Lake. N.Y. (cut 167), 201. 

Seven Mine Spring. Va., 304. 

Seven Springs IMountain House, N.Y.,205. 

Seward Mt.. N.Y., 1>0. 

Shandaken Valley, N.Y., 137. 

Sharon Springs, N.Y., 171, )05. 

Sharon Alum Springs, Va , 304. 

Shawanegan Falls. Can., 65. 

Shawangunk Mt.. N.Y., 205. 

Shebovgan and Fond du Lac Rsvilway, 322. 

Sheboygan, Wis . 3-23. 

Shelby Springs, Ala., 299. 

Sheldon Springs, Vt., 121. 

shelter lidand Park N.Y., i:!0. 

Sherwood House, 326. 

Shickshinny, Penn.. 180, 229. 

Shoshone Falls, Idaho, 3tL 

Shoshone River, Idaho 344. 

.-•ilver Cascade, N H. (cut), 89. 

SUver Cascade, Vt., C3. 

Silver J^ake, Mass., 123. 

Silver Sprhigs, Fla., 293. 

Sinking Springs, Penn., 219. 

Sing Sing, N.Y., 13j. 193. 

Sk.aneateles Lake, N.Y., 200. 

Slunner's lyland. Can., 64. 

Sky Top Peak, N.Y., 205. 

Sleepy Hollow, N Y., 139. 

Micking Falls, N.C.. 297. 

Smuggler's Kotch, Vt., 120. 

■^oddm Lake, N.Y., 198. 

Sodus Point, N. Y., 202. 

Sodua Pourt Southern RaUwav, N.Y., 202. 

Solomon's Gap. Penn. (cut), 1(52. 

South Mt.,N.Y., 1.39. 

Southern States. 268. 

South-west Ilarlaor, Me., 78. 

Sparkling Catawba Springs, N.C., 289. 

Sparta Mineral Well, Minn., 334. 

. Alburgh, Vt.. 321. 
Alleghany. Va., 3"2. 
Alum and Iron, Cal., 346. 
Alum, Cal , 346. 
Artesian Le/i jia, N.Y.. 195 
Augusta (Striblmg), Va., 275. 
Avon, N.Y., 238. 
Bath Alum, V,a., 277. 
Bailey, Ala., 306. 
Bedford Alum, Va., 301. 
Bedford, P3ini.,2j4. 
Beersheba, Ala., 306. 
Black Sulohur, Ca^., 346. 
Black Sulohur, Temi., 303. 
Bladen, Ala , 299. 



Blount's, Ala., 306, 313. 

Blue Lick, Ky.,309. 

Blue. Ala., 313. 

Roiling Alum and Sulphur. Cal., 346. 

Boiling Black Sulphur, Cal., 346. 

Bolton, Vt., 04. 

Bon Aqua, Tenn., 305. 

Brandywine. Penn., '.i37. 

Calistoga Hot, Cal., 345. 

Catoosa, Ga., 298. 

Causilor's, N.C. , 289. 

Chalybeate, Tenn., 305. 

Chalybeate, Ga.. 298. 

Champlain, Vt., 121. 

Chandler, Ala.. 299. 

Cherokee, Ga. , 298. 

Chilhowee, Tenn , 305. 

Chilhowee, Va., 304. 

Clarendon, Vt.. l-'4. 

Cleveland Mineral, N.C., 289. 

Colorado, Cal., 340. 

Coyner's, N a, 302 

Drennon Black Sulphur, Ky., 309. 

Eggleston, Va., 303. 

Eikmont, Tenn., 313. 

Ephrata, Penn., 219. 

Epsom Salt, Cal., 346. 

Eutaw, S.C., 290. 

Falling Snring Falls, Va., 278. 

Fairy, N.Y., 139. 

Gas, N.Y., 210. 

Glen Flora. Mineral. Wis.. 322. 

Godbald's Mineral Wells, Miss., 30. 

Great Geyser, Cal., 346. 
Green Cove, Fla., 292. 

Green. Fla., 202. 

Greenwood, Miss., 307. 

Green Brier White Sulphur, Va. (cut, 
281.) 

Harrodsburg, Ky , 308. 

Healing, Va., 277. 

Healing, S.C, 290. 

Mi-jhgate. Vt., 121. 

Holston, Va.. 3D4. 

Hot, Ark., 397. 

Hot, Va..277. 

Hot, Utah, 344. 

Idaho, 340. 

Indian. Ga., 298. 

Intermittent Scalding, Cal., 346. 

Iron and Sulpher, Cal., 31G. 

-Johnson's Wells, Ala., 306. 

Lacks. N.C , 2S9. 

Lauderdale, Miss., 307. 

Levan.a, NY.. 201. 

Lewis Mineral, N.C, 289. 

Litz, Penn. 2i9. 

Littonian, Kt., 308. 

Madison, Ga., 298. 

Magnetic Mineral, Minn., 336. 

Magnetic, Mich., 314. 

Manitou, Col , 340. 

Medicated Geyser Baths, Cal., 346. 

Midland Magnetic, Mich., 314. 

MidiUetown, Vt., 125. 

Mineral, Miss., 307. 

Mineral, Ala., 306. 

Miner.al of Palmyra, Wis., 329. 

Minnequa, Penn., 261. 

Missisquoi, Vt.. 121. 

Montgomery Wliite Sulphur, Va., 302. 

Mont Vale, Tenn., 305. 

Mount.ain Valley, Ark., 307. 

Newbmy Sulphur, Vt., 63. 



360 



New Lebanon, Mass., 124. 

Oak Orchard Acid, N.Y., 202. 

Oakton, Wis., 329. 

Old Sweet, Va., 2S0, 302. 

Panacea, N.O., 289. 

Piedmont, N.C., 295. 

Powder, Ga., 298. 

l^ulaski Alum, 304. 

Red Sweet. Va., 281, 302. 

Red .sulphur. Ga., 298. 

Red Sulphur, Va., 304. 

Renova, Penn., 260. 

Kichfleld. N.Y.. 170. 

Roaring Creek, Penn., 261. 

Rockbridge Alum, Va. (cut), 276. 

Rockbridge Bath, Va., 270. 

Rowland's Mineral, Ga., 298. 

Salt Sulphur. Va., 301. 

Sans Souci, N.Y., 195. 

Saiatoga. N.Y., 175. 

Scalding Steam Iron Bii.th, Gal., 346. 

Seven Mine, Va.. 304. 

Sharon Alum, Va.. 304. 

Sharon, N.Y., ITl, 105. 

Shelby, Ala.. 299. 

Sheldon. Vt, 121. 

SUver, Fla., 293. 

Sinking, Penn., Il9. 

Sparkling Catawba, N.C, 289. 

Sparta Mineral Well, Minn., 334. 

Spring Church, N.C., 289. 

Steamboat Geyser. Cah, 346. 

Submerged, Wis., ^29. 

Sulphur, Ala., 299. 

Sulphur, Ark., 307. 

Sulphur, Ga., 298. 

Sulphur, N.C., 2«9. 

Sulphur, Tenu., 305. 

Suwannee. Fla., 292. 

Sweet Chalybeate, Va , 280. 

Talladega. Ala., 299. 

Tar, Ky., 309. 

Tate, Tenn., 305. 

Union. N.Y., 201. 

Valherroosa, Ala., 306, 313. 

Vallonia, N.Y., 207. 

Vermont, 121. 

Verona, N.Y., 198. 

Virginia, 271. 

Warm, Ga., 29S. 

Warm. N.C.. 296. 

Warm, Tenn., 305. 

Warm, Utah, 344. 

Warm, Va., 277. 

White Cliff, Tenn.. 305. 

White Sulphur, Kv., 309. 

White Sulphur, Miss., 307. 

White Sulphur, N.Y., 19S. 

White Sulphur, Tenn., 305. 

White Sulphur, Va., 271, 281 (cut 280). 
302, 304. 

Wilson's, N.C., 295. 

Witch's Caldron, Cal , 346. 

Yates, N.Y., 198. 

Yellow Sulphur, Va., 303. 
Shore Line Railroad, 120. 
Squam Lake, N.H., 45. 
Squam River, N.H., 45. 
Stamford, N.Y., 1.38. 
St. Anthony Falls, 331. 
Star of the East (steamboat), 21. 
Starr King Mountain, N.H., 55. 
Starucca Viaduct, N.Y., 206. 
St. Augustine, Fla., 293. 



Staunton, Va. . 274. 

St. Catherine's Hotel, 125. 

St. Catherine's Lake, 125. 

St. Catherine's Mountain, 125. 

St. Charles Hotel, La., 300. 

Steep Falls, Me., 82. 

Sterling Mt.,Vt., 120. 

St. James Hotel, 300. 

St. John, Can., 119. 

St. John, E.P., 96. 

St. John's, Fla., 292. 

St. Johnsbury, Vt., 63. 

St. Lawrence River, 196. 

St. Louis Hotel, La., 300. 

St. Louis, Mich., 314. 

Stockton House, N. J., 232. 

Stonington, R.I., 128. 

Stonington Steamboat Line, 131 

Stony Clove, N.Y., 137. 

StooiMt , N.C, 297. 

Stowe, Vt . 120. 

St. Paid and Pacific Railroad, 334. 

St. Paul. Minn., 334. 

Stratford (I'ercy) Peaks, N.H., 55, 93. 

Strawberi-y Culture (cut), 2.33. 

Stribling (Augusta) Siirings, Va., 275. 

Submerged Spring. Wis., 328. 

Sugar Falls, N.Y.. Iff'o. 

Sugar-Loaf Mt., N.H., 119. 

Sugar-Loaf, N.Y., 20S. 

Sullivan's Island, S.C, 291 

Sulphur, Ark., 307. 

Sulphur Mount, Mon , 343. 

Sulphur Springs, Ala., 299. 

Sulphur Springs, Ga., 298. 

Sulphur Springs, N.C, 289. 

Sulphur, Tenn, ,305. 

Summerside, P.E,I., 96. 

Summit Hill, Penn., 152. 

Summit House, N. H., 60. 

Summit House, Vt., 120. 

Sunbury. Penn , 259. 

Sunnyside, N.Y., 135, 193. 

Superior Lake, 331. 

Surprise Mount, N.H., 93. 

Susiiuehanna iiiver (cut, 224), 2.M8, 251. 

Susquehanna, N.Y., 200. 

Suwannee Springs, Fla., 292. 

Swampscott, Mass., 66, 67. 

Swananda Gap, N.C, 295. 

Sweet Chalybeate Springs, Va., 280. 

Switch-back (Scranton), I'enn.. 166. 

Switch-back Railroad (Mauch Chunk), 

Penn.. 148, 152. 
Sylvan Glade, N.H., 90. 
Sylvan Lake, Mass., 123. 
Syracuse, N.Y.,200. 
Table Rock, N.C, 296. 
Table, N.C, 296. 

Taconic House, Vt., 124. , 

Tahoe Lake, Cal., 345. 
Tallulah FaUs, Ga., 397. 
Talladega Springs, Ala., 299. 
Tamanend, Penn., 225. 
Tamaqua, Penn., 221. 
Tar Springs, Ky., 309. 
Tari-ytown, N.Y., 135. 
Tate Spring, Tenn., 305. 
Taughannock Falls, N.Y.. 201. 
Thamea River, Conn., 130. 
Thaver's Hotel, Littleton, 51, 
Southern MaU Route Uailroad, 189, 301. 
Thousand Islands House, N.Y. (cut), 199. 
Thousand Islands, N.Y., 196. 



361 



Thomas Cornell (Steamer), 130. 

Three Rivers, Can., 65. 

Thunderbolt, Ga., 292. 

Thunder B;iv, 314. 

Ticoiidcroga, N.Y., 177. 

Tilden House, Wis., ;M0. 

Tilton, N.H. (cut), 38. 

Toccoa Falls, Ga.. 297. 

Toledo, .Midi., 3U. 

Thomijson's Kallo, N.H., 72. 

Toinbia Uiver. Minn.. 335. 

Torch Lake, Mich., 316. 

Torch Lake Village, Midi., 317. 

Townscnd House, Utah, S'W. 

Towalaga F.alls, Ga., 297. 

Traverse City, Jlieh., 316. 

Traverse L.ake. Jlich., 316. 

Trenton Falls, N.Y., 195. 

Trip-hammer Falls, N.Y., 201. 

Trinidad Cave, 340. 

Troy, N.Y., 194. 

Truckee, Cal., 315. 

Truckee House, Cal., 345.. 

Tuckerman's Ravine, N.H., 91. 

Tumbling Shoals, Tenn., 306. 

Tapper Lake (Big), N.Y., 181. 

Tupper L.ake (Little), N.Y., 181. 

Tuscumbia, Ala., 306. 

Twin Lakes, Minn., 334. 

Twin Mountain House, N.H. (cut), 08. 

Umbagog Lake, Me., 92. 

Union and Central I'acitic Railroad, :!4o. 

Union Springs, N.Y., 201. 

University of Virginia (cut), 269. 

United States Hotel (cut), 76. 

Union Bridge, IST. H., 39. 

Upper Bartlett, N.H., 87. 

Up the Hudson, 130. 

Utica and Black River Railroad, 196. 

Utowana Lake, N.Y., 182. 

Utica, N.Y., 195. 

Valley Forge, Fenn., (cut), 216. 

Vallonia Springs, N.Y., 207. 

V.alhermosa Spring, Ala., 306. 

Vermont, 120. 

Verona Springs, N.Y., 198. 

Vermont Springs, Vt., 121. 

Venango River, Penn., 210. 

Vii-ginia, 268. 

Virginia Springs, 271. 

Viney.ard Haven, Mass., 110. 

Wachusett Mount, Mass., 121. 

Wachusett Lake, Mass., 121. 

Wagon Riding. 17. 

Walden'a Ilidge, Tenn., 306. 

Walker House, Wis.. 323. 

Wambec House, N.H., 55. 

Warm Spring, Utah, 344. 

Warm Springs, N.C., 296. , 

Warm Spring, Tenn., 305. 

Warm Springs, Va., 277, 270. 

Warsaw River, Ga., 292. 

Warren, N.H.. 50. 

Waukegan, 111.. 322. 

W.ashington, D.O. (cut), 255. 

Watch Hill, U.I.. 128. 

Wabash, Minn.. 335. 

Waikins Glen, N.Y., 201, 264. 

Wawayandah Lake, N.Y.. 205. 

WawaVandah Mount, N.Y., 205. 

Webster. N.H., 88. 

Well:, Me., 66. 70, 73. 

Wells Uiver Junction, Vt., 51, 63. 

West Burke, Vt., 03. 



West Canada Creek, N.Y., 195. 
West -Jersey Railroad, 232. 
West Hurley, N.Y.. 137. 
Western and Atlantic Railroad, .'106. 
West Point, N.Y., i;!5, 191. 
Westkill, N.V., 137. 
West Ossipeo, N.H., 70. 
Western States, 314. 
Western North Carolina Railroad, 295. 
Weyer's Cave, V'a. . 271, 27.5. 
White Bear Lake, Minn., 334. 
White's Cave. Ky.. 312. 
Whitcomb's Bowhlor. Va. (cut). 286. 
White Face Mount. N.H.. 72. 
While Face INiount :i.\., 180. 
Whitedeld. N.H.. .-.:;. 
White Head Cliii. Me. (^cut). 77. . 
Wliite Haven, Pcnii., 158. 
White .Mountains, N.IL, .35. 
White Mountain Notch, N.H. (cut 90), k». 
White River Junction, Vt. 119. 
White (Jliff Spring, Tenn., 305. 
White Sulpluir Spring, N.Y., 198. 
Wliii<! Sulphur, Miss., ,307. 
White Suliihur, Ky., 309. 
Whito Sulphur Spring, Tenn,, 3;).'). 
While Sulphur Springs, Va., 271, 302. 
Whiteside. N.C, 296. 
White Watei- Cataracts, N.C., 297 
Weir's, N.H. (cut 42), 41. 
Wilkes IJarre, Penn., 145, 163, 229. 
Will.ard Mt., N.IL. ss. 
AVillev Mountain, N.H., 88. 
Willey Notch, N.H.,>-«. 
Williainsport, Penn.. 145. 229,260. 
Willoughby Lake. Vt , 03. 
Willoughby Mouutain, Vt., 63. 
Wilmington .and Rc^ading Raih'oad, 237. 
Wilmington and AVeldon Itailro.ad, 289. 
Wilmington, Ch.-irlotte, and Raleigh Rail- 
road, 289. 
Wilmington, Del., 237. 
WUmington. N.C., 290. 
Wilmington Notch, N.Y. , 179. 
Wilson's Springs, N.C., 295. 
Windham, N.Y., i:i8. 
Wing Road, N.H., .55, 56. 
Winnebago Lake, Wis.. 32'i. 
Winnepesaukee Lake. N.IL, 70. 
Winslow House, N.H., 119. 
Wisconsin, 23, 320. 
Wissaliickon River, Penn., 246. 
Wolfboro' Branch Railroad, 70. 
Wolfboro',N.II.,41,70. 
Wollaston, IVIass , 98. 
Woods Hole, Mass., 102, 109. 
Wood's Hotel, N.Y., 174. 
Woodstock, N.H. ,49. 
WoodsvUle. N.H., 51. 
Wrightsville (Brani-h), 250, 257. 
Wyoming House, lilS. 
Wyoming Ter., 340. 
Wyoming Valley Hotel, Peini., 163. 
Wytheviile,Va."...304. 
Yankton. Dakota, .340 
Yarmouth. E.P., 96. 
Yates, N.Y., 198. 

Yellowstone National Park, Mou., 341. 
Yellow Sulphur Springs, Va., 303. 
Yonkers, N.Y.. 135. 
York, Me., 60, 70. 
York, Penn., 257. 
Yo Semite Falls, CaL, .346. 
Zurich L.ake. Wis., 322, 326. 





ETTYSBUR 
Publications, 

BY 

JOHN B. BACHELDER. 

57 Beekman Street, New York. 
41-45 Franklin Street, Boston. 





8f)2 




LLUSTRATE 

HISTORY 



BATTLE OF GETTYSBURG. 





JOHN B. BACHELDER. 



It is unquestionably true tliat a very inucli better idea of a battle will be derived if 
the text is illustrated by portraits of the actors, and engravings of the action. Such a 
representation of the Battle of Gettysburg is nearly ready for press, and when finished 
will make a most 

COMPLETE HISTORY OF THE BATTLE. 

It forms a beautiful portrait album of the generals in command. Oveu nixety-onk 

HUNDRED noLLAHs' WORTH Ai!E ALREADY ENGRAVED, including magniiiccnt Steel 

Portraits of Generals 

MEADE, STANNARD, HAYS, WHEATON, GEARY, McGILVERY. 

REYNOLDS, HANCOCK, SHCRRILL, GARTLETT, GREENE, PLEASANTOX', 

NEWTON, ZOOK, CULL, HOV/ARD, KANE, BUTTERFIELD, 

WADSWORTH, GICDON, VINCENT, AMES, HUNT, WARREN, 

MEREDITH, V/EBB, CRAWFORD, SLOCUM, RANDOLPH, INGALLS. 

DOUBLEDAY, HALL, V/RIGHT, WILLIAMS, MARTIN, 

And others ordered. 

Portraits of General Leo and his Corps end Division Commanders 

Will be introduced. Al;,o AVood-Cut Illustrations of 

SOME OF THE MOST THRILLING EPISODES OF THE CATTLE 

These engravings have been furnished by friends of the parties interested, as mani- 
festations of their esteem. 

Prices von introducing Illustrations. —Steel Poi-trnitit, $150. Wond-Cuts, 
S5, S25, or §75, according to size, invariably in advance. Parties wiching portraits or 
wood-cuts should write immediately. 

PRICES OF HISTORY. 

Popular Edition, without portraits, bound in cloth . , S'lOO 

" '• with portraits j)rinted from transfers 7.50 

Library " royal octavo, good paper, bound in sheep 12.00 

Halk Morocco Edition, fine paper, proof portraits, beveled boards 17. SO 

EiNK Edition, tinted paper, proof portraits, full morocco, beveled boards, gilt. . . 25.00 
Large Paper Edition, printed from large, new type, original wood-cuts, hand- 
press, heavy toned calendered paper, INDIA proof portraits, in sheets, uncut. .100.00 
Elaborately bound, full levant morocco, gilt 125.00 

JOHN B. BACHELDER, 

41-45 Frariklin St, Boston; 57 Beekman St., New York. 

363 





A MAGNIFICENT 

IL PAINTIN 

AND .^™ 

STEEL ENGRAVONG 

OF THE 

REPULSE OF LONGSTREET'S ASSAULT, 

THE DECISIVE MOMENT OF THE 

BATTLE OF GETTYSBURG. 

Painted by JAMES WALKER. 
From Historical Designs by John B. Bachelder. 

This painting is 20 feet long and 7>^ feet high, and is unquestionably 
THE FINEST BATTLE SCENE IN AMERICA-. 

It has been on exhibition thirty-one months, has been examined by thousands of sol- 
diers without the discovery of a mistake, and has received the unqualified approval of 
military men and art critics. 

A MAGNIFICENT STEEL ENGRAVING, 

FROM IT, IN LINE, 

By H. B. HALL, Jr. 

A •work of superior merit, 35 inches long, engraved surface, and executed in the 
HIGHEST STYLE OF ART. 

PRICES. 

Electrotype Edition $ 7.50 

Pri^t 15.00 

Plain Proof, on superior plate paper 25.00 

India Proof, on line India paper 50.00 

Artist Proof (limited to two hundred copies) 100.00 

Sold only by Sutscription. 

Twenty-one thousand seven hundred and fifty dollars worth already 

ordered ! ! 

PUBLISHED BY 

JOHN B. BACHELDER, 

41-45 Franklin St., Boston; 57 Beekman St., Ne^ York. 
364- , ,|»^. 

U107 75 M 







.^" ... 



% 



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